Charging, battery KwH, and range

[mdntblu]

I have a 2018 Ford Fusion Energi. Bought it brand new after trading in a 2015 C-Max Energi that I also bought brand new. 

My 2018 Fusion has just under 40,000 miles on it. Just to make note I've lived in the same house and nothing has really changed since I first bought the C-Max.

 

When I first got my Ford Fusion I always got the 21 miles on a charge. Sometimes it would go down to 18 or up to 23 depending on where I was driving. I also drive my car the same, no wild acceleration or quick stops, etc. So driving habits should not factor in.

 

I have a ChargePoint Home charger and have downloaded a few years worth of charging activity. I can notice that up until around May of 2020 I would get charges in the 6 and 7 KwH range. Ever since then I rarely get past 5 KwH.

 

I have uploaded my xls file of all charging activity since 1/1/2020. 

 

So because I'm noticing that I never get over 5 KwH per charge my range is down in the 8-11 miles per charge.

 

My guess is that my battery isn't taking a full charge and the past few days FordPass app has even been saying 93% or 94% charged even after being plugged in all night.

 

 

 

As you can see FordPass says 94% and my ChargePoint says 4-5KwH.

 

So recently I took it to the Ford dealer and explained all this to them. After having my car for 3 days the rep called and said the tech doesn't understand why it's doing that and said that he's still looking into it. 

Then the next day he called and said it's all done and your car is charging to 21 miles. I was very skeptical. So when I picked it up it was 100% charged but the Range only said 9 miles. But then on the left screen there is a average mi per charge on one of the screens and it said 21. So I'm like ok whatever, I'll drive it home and make sure the battery is completely empty and see what happens. 

 

So that night I charged it and what do ya know, it says 21 miles on the range. But I saw it only did like 5KhW so I'm like how is it that I'm going to get 21 miles. So I really kept track. I went on a drive and after around 7 miles I was down to 18% battery. And within a few more miles it was completely empty. So I really only got 10 miles on that charge even though all the stuff said 21. I am under the impression that the Ford dealer didn't really do anything except like a major hard reset to reset all the calculations on the car computers. Because over the week after getting the car back it started dropping and dropping and now I'm back to the 9-11 miles per charge again. 

 

I'm 100% certain that my battery isn't taking the full 7.6KwH charge. Sure we know that batteries degrade over time but the dealer and a few people on FaceBook group said not at 40,000 miles. One guy had a 2014 Energi with over 100,000 miles and he says he still gets 20 miles on a charge. So I don't believe that it's the battery degrading. It feels like some of the cells are bad and it won't get more than 4.5-5.5 KwH charges.

 

Does anyone on here have any ideas? Or works for a dealer and is trained on this. I know the battery has an 8 year/80,000 mi warranty. I would really like to get my battery replaced (or at least load tested and verified).

 

Thank you.

Usage-history-20220131 (1).xls

Edited June 22, 2023 at 12:48 AM by mdntblu
forgot a word

[jsamp]

Sorry to say, but this sounds like classic battery degradation.  Some of that could be due to cold winter weather, which will come back as temps improve.  What you are measuring with the app is total kWh input, depending on how empty the battery is (deep in hybrid mode, or just 0% on EV mode) it could be as much as ~6.8kWh.  As the battery ages and loses some capacity, the amount you get per charge drops.  Depending on how much you use EV and how hard you are on it when driving EV (freeway speeds? or only around town?) that drop can be pretty steep.  Some people go for years with little loss, some lose a lot in 1-2 years.

 

To see how much you have really lost, I would suggest the EV only test.  This is best done on a ~70 deg day.  Charge to 100%, set a trip odometer to 0 and go for a <50MPH drive on country backroads.  Drive until the battery switches out of EV mode to hybrid mode (usually ~ 30 seconds after battery charge reaches 0%).  Stop and look at the trip odometer.  It tells you miles and kWh used.  A new battery would be around 5.5-5.6kWh.  I am guessing yours is closer to 4.5kWh.  If so, unfortunately, there isn't anything you can do about it other than treat the battery more gently to prevent further excessive degradation.

 

I think you are right, the Ford dealer just reset the computer.  With no past history it will default to the programmed 21 miles.  Once it learns how much you get from a couple of charges, it goes back to reality.

[mdntblu]

On 2/17/2022 at 10:35 PM, jsamp said:

Sorry to say, but this sounds like classic battery degradation.  Some of that could be due to cold winter weather, which will come back as temps improve.  What you are measuring with the app is total kWh input, depending on how empty the battery is (deep in hybrid mode, or just 0% on EV mode) it could be as much as ~6.8kWh.  As the battery ages and loses some capacity, the amount you get per charge drops.  Depending on how much you use EV and how hard you are on it when driving EV (freeway speeds? or only around town?) that drop can be pretty steep.  Some people go for years with little loss, some lose a lot in 1-2 years.

 

To see how much you have really lost, I would suggest the EV only test.  This is best done on a ~70 deg day.  Charge to 100%, set a trip odometer to 0 and go for a <50MPH drive on country backroads.  Drive until the battery switches out of EV mode to hybrid mode (usually ~ 30 seconds after battery charge reaches 0%).  Stop and look at the trip odometer.  It tells you miles and kWh used.  A new battery would be around 5.5-5.6kWh.  I am guessing yours is closer to 4.5kWh.  If so, unfortunately, there isn't anything you can do about it other than treat the battery more gently to prevent further excessive degradation.

 

I think you are right, the Ford dealer just reset the computer.  With no past history it will default to the programmed 21 miles.  Once it learns how much you get from a couple of charges, it goes back to reality.

Thanks for the reply.

 

I live in SoCal and we don't have cold winter weather and a typical day is ~70° and it seems to be that the battery has issues no matter what the temperature is. It baffles my mind to think that the car is like 4 years old and not even 40,000 miles and I'm having this problem. I feel also that once my lease was up and I paid for the car fully is when this started. Not saying that has anything to do with it but just sucks. I was chatting on a FB group and a few of the people said they have over 100,000 mi on their cars and still get 18 or so miles. I just don't get why mine just went from 21 to 10 practically overnight. I don't drive the car hard. It's mainly around town and not much freeway driving.

[jsamp]

While one cannot prevent battery degradation completely, there are a number of things that you can do to reduce it further.  This applies even to an already degraded battery.

 

Things to avoid: 

• Leaving the car at 100% charge for long periods or in the heat
• Driving EV or charging when it is >100oF
• Rapid acceleration on EV (jackrabbit starts or fast acceleration onto freeways)
• Running the heater in EV mode
• Driving freeway speeds on EV

 

Things to help:

• Charge less than 100% if not needed
• Use ICE when heat/defrost is needed
• Use ICE when accelerating to or driving above 50MPH

My '15 has 95k miles, and I get ~28 miles around town, ~21-22 on the freeway (rarely do I do this though).

Edited February 23, 2022 at 05:30 AM by jsamp

[jsamp]

On 2/17/2022 at 11:37 PM, mdntblu said:

I just don't get why mine just went from 21 to 10 practically overnight. I don't drive the car hard. It's mainly around town and not much freeway driving.

 

 If it truly dropped that fast, you could have had a few cells or even a cell group in your battery go bad (though I would think that would trigger a wrench light).  But since you are still getting SOME miles out of your battery, Ford will claim it is 'normal wear and tear' and not honor a warranty claim.  The battery would literally have to die to get them to replace it.

[mdntblu]

On 3/7/2022 at 10:42 PM, jsamp said:

 

 If it truly dropped that fast, you could have had a few cells or even a cell group in your battery go bad (though I would think that would trigger a wrench light).  But since you are still getting SOME miles out of your battery, Ford will claim it is 'normal wear and tear' and not honor a warranty claim.  The battery would literally have to die to get them to replace it.

Yeah I’m soooooo frustrated. Not sure how to get them to do anything. I want 20ish miles not 9. Ugh. 

[muzicman61]

Mine dropped to 8 or 9 over the winter.  I'm just happy it's back up to 15 now. ?

[mfusion]

What is the useable battery range of the 7.6 kWh set BY FORD?    Car's don't use 100% of capacity, the manufacture

programs to use a % of the range.

 

Our Volt has a 18.6kWh pack - the car limits use between 14.0-14.3 Kwh.   

That's what it takes to charge it.  I never expect it to charge 18.6 Kwh.  

 

We have a 2014 Energi Fusion - the trip meter  we get between 4 and 4.6 Kwh of use,

charging the most I have seen is 4.5 - but we just installed the Chargepoint charger

so I don't have a lot of data yet on what it is using.

 

Your MPE is dependent on so many factors and shouldn't be used as battery health.

 

We live in SF Bay area - drive up hill on the freeway to get anywhere - range on battery 10-14 miles.

If we could drive around town under 40 MPG it would probably get 18+.

[jsamp]

On 4/14/2022 at 7:36 PM, mfusion said:

What is the useable battery range of the 7.6 kWh set BY FORD?    Car's don't use 100% of capacity, the manufacture

programs to use a % of the range.

 

We have a 2014 Energi Fusion - the trip meter  we get between 4 and 4.6 Kwh of use,

charging the most I have seen is 4.5 - but we just installed the Chargepoint charger

so I don't have a lot of data yet on what it is using.

 

We live in SF Bay area - drive up hill on the freeway to get anywhere - range on battery 10-14 miles.

If we could drive around town under 40 MPG it would probably get 18+.

 

Bay Area brat here too.  The weather around here is perfect for our cars... not too hot, not too cold.

 

The 7.6 kWh is broken down as follows:

1.5 - hybrid mode

5.6 - EV driving/charging portion

0.5 - Buffer at the top end to prevent overcharging.

 

So for the estimated miles on the display, it is assuming the 5.6kWh (or whatever portion of that your car still has left after degradation).  Sounds like yours has lost a bit of capacity over the years/miles.  The hybrid portion includes buffer at the low end to prevent bricking the battery.  So you only get to use about 1/2 of that 1.5kWh.

[mdntblu]

On 4/14/2022 at 9:34 PM, jsamp said:

 

Bay Area brat here too.  The weather around here is perfect for our cars... not too hot, not too cold.

 

The 7.6 kWh is broken down as follows:

1.5 - hybrid mode

5.6 - EV driving/charging portion

0.5 - Buffer at the top end to prevent overcharging.

 

So for the estimated miles on the display, it is assuming the 5.6kWh (or whatever portion of that your car still has left after degradation).  Sounds like yours has lost a bit of capacity over the years/miles.  The hybrid portion includes buffer at the low end to prevent bricking the battery.  So you only get to use about 1/2 of that 1.5kWh.

Hmm seems odd that a 4 yr old car with 41k miles would have that much of a problem. I had a C-Max before this with the same battery (lived in the same house, same commute, same charging habits) and it had no issues. I'm really frustrated that over night it would go from 21 miles to 9 miles per charge and stay at 9-11 miles now. If I baby it then it goes up to 11, if I drive it normal it is at 9. 

 

I was talking to a Level 4 Ford engineer in Germany and he did some tests on my car and found a bunch of DTC's. 

 

Quote

I checked your car via PTS. There are several DTCs in the SOBDM and SOBDMC. There is an issue with the cooling system of your HV-battery. P0D8F in the SOBDM means Cooling System battery/charger malfunction. Your dealer should only check your connected car data in PTS. The battery can‘t be charged, because the cooling system of the onboard charger is not working properly. Maybe it‘s only a software issue.

 

So I will be taking it to a dealer shortly and showing them this info. 

 

 

Edited April 15, 2022 at 04:47 AM by mdntblu

[mfusion]

On 4/14/2022 at 9:46 PM, mdntblu said:

I was talking to a Level 4 Ford engineer in Germany and he did some tests on my car and found a bunch of DTC's. 

 

 

 

 

Are these DTCs available from ODB app - Forscan etc?    I have our Energi serviced at a local dealer and they have

never mentioned anything and I have used a few general apps on the ODB port and never seen anything.

 

For us it could be just poor batter performance - but if there is some hidden info definitely want to investigate.

[mdntblu]

On 4/15/2022 at 8:24 AM, mfusion said:

Are these DTCs available from ODB app - Forscan etc?    I have our Energi serviced at a local dealer and they have

never mentioned anything and I have used a few general apps on the ODB port and never seen anything.

 

For us it could be just poor batter performance - but if there is some hidden info definitely want to investigate.

The guy pulled them up from some Ford software. See the copyright date at the bottom of the screen shot. 
I will be taking mine to the dealer and giving them all this info when I go. 

[duskpearl]

My 2013 Energi has a similar issue, also with a 12v battery parasitic drain. Have changed the 12V about 1 1/2 years ago but didn't change the battery life setting in the Fusion software. People say that how the 12v is charged is linked to the age of the 12v battery life setting. A Ford TSB points to possible chaffing of (fan?) wire forward of 12v. Mine is fine. But, the TSB goes on to say if no chaffing, replace the TCU.

 

My dealer changed the charging port. Got 15 miles on gage first charge, then 19. But, next time would not charge until I reset screen charge schedule to Charge Now AND started engine and shut down, Then, it began to charge to 22 miles. It appears that when the 12v depletes to the 11v area, the EV battery charge issues appear. 

 

My guess is that your EV battery is not the issue. So, have you had dealer diagnosis yet?  

[mdntblu]

On 5/29/2022 at 10:06 AM, duskpearl said:

My 2013 Energi has a similar issue, also with a 12v battery parasitic drain. Have changed the 12V about 1 1/2 years ago but didn't change the battery life setting in the Fusion software. People say that how the 12v is charged is linked to the age of the 12v battery life setting. A Ford TSB points to possible chaffing of (fan?) wire forward of 12v. Mine is fine. But, the TSB goes on to say if no chaffing, replace the TCU.

 

My dealer changed the charging port. Got 15 miles on gage first charge, then 19. But, next time would not charge until I reset screen charge schedule to Charge Now AND started engine and shut down, Then, it began to charge to 22 miles. It appears that when the 12v depletes to the 11v area, the EV battery charge issues appear. 

 

My guess is that your EV battery is not the issue. So, have you had dealer diagnosis yet?  

I have taken my car in as stated in original post. So you're saying that my 12V battery (which is over 4 years old now) could be the issue? And if I replace my 12v battery you're saying there is some software that needs to be reset? Or actually a piece of hardware needs to be replaced? Is this something I can do with Forscan if it's not hardware? Please elaborate. My Ford dealer is lame and doesn't like to do much and the techs aren't very smart. 

Edited May 30, 2022 at 01:12 AM by mdntblu

[duskpearl]

My 2013 Energi has a similar issue, also with a 12v battery parasitic drain. Have changed the 12V about 1 1/2 years ago but didn't change the battery life setting in the Fusion software. People say that how the 12v is charged is linked to the age of the 12v battery life setting. A Ford TSB points to possible chaffing of (fan?) wire forward of 12v. Mine is fine. But, the TSB goes on to say if no chaffing, replace the TCU.

 

My dealer changed the charging port. Got 15 miles on gage first charge, then 19. But, next time would not charge until I reset screen charge schedule to Charge Now AND started engine and shut down, Then, it began to charge to 22 miles. It appears that when the 12v depletes to the 11v area, the EV battery charge issues appear. 

 

My guess is that your EV battery is not the issue. So, have you had dealer diagnosis yet?  

 

 

So, I just got a FORscan tool and am trying to understand how to reset the 12v battery life setting. It's in the BdyCM - Body Control Module file, but I've not yet figured out how to change it. I don't know if it could resolve the issues I'm experienced. But, reducing the age of the battery will change the charging and some electrical draw parameters, so I want to reset it as per standard Ford protocol. By cycling the ignition on and off, and cycling the Sync "charge now" and "charge on schedule" buttons, my vehicle charged to 22 miles, the accuracy of which I confirmed by expending them and comparing with the odometer. But, when trying to charge after that, nothing I did would get it to charge. The ability to experience a charge to 19-22 miles is what leads me to believe the fault is not the EV battery,

[mdntblu]

So I made an appointment for my Fusion at the dealer on Monday June 13th. I dropped it off at 9am but I handed the rep a large amount of papers I had printed from either FB or forums showing lots of people with cars having over 100k miles still obtaining the 21 miles or even close like 18mi per charge. 

By Monday afternoon I received a call from the service rep that the tech looked at the car and didn't really see any issues but the tech wasn't an EV tech. So I said ok I can wait. He said the EV tech would be in on Wednesday. Wednesday came and went and didn't hear anything. Then he called me and said techs keep calling in sick and one has Covid.

Then on the following Monday he called me and read me some service records about some codes and stuff about cooling fans and other things and said the tech will take a look more on Tuesday. Didn't hear anything by Wednesday so I called and he said the techs weren't there. I'm like this is insane. So this upcoming Monday the 27th will be 2 weeks with really no answers because they don't usually work on weekends. Insanity.

[mfusion]

Totally sucks waiting for people with experience.  We have same issue with Chevy Volt - very few technicians remaining.

 

I put zero faith into what other claim they are getting - most of the time these claims which sound really good

are not backed up with any measured values / photos / over a period of time.   Local around town driving

is nothing compared to driving on a bay area freeway at 70+ through rolling hills.

 

We have the chargepoint charger - so I can provide quantified examples of what our 2014 will take from empty, 4.5 to 5.2 kWh.

The trip data can help show measured energy pulled from battery  - I have seen 4.2 - 4.6 kwh full to empty.

We have 62K miles and car is driven mixed 50/50 between freeway 70+ / hills and local streets.

Unfortunately, I didn't keep good records when the vehicle was younger so I can't be sure when / if battery changed..

 

The data i would like to see is in the individual cell voltages - I have an app for the Volt.   Does Forscan or any OBD readers

help with cell voltages?

 

My point - everyone needs the ability to quantify the health of battery.   It sucks for all of us  Ford can't ( OR DOESN"T )

provide a full report on a compete battery cycle.     In theory, manufactures should be capturing and providing battery

information for the owner - but this is obviously a business decision to not provide information to the owners.

If we don't know the HV battery health - the expectations for mileage is meaning less.

 

I hope they find a technician that can help dig into the issue.

[mdntblu]

On 6/27/2022 at 8:48 PM, mfusion said:

Totally sucks waiting for people with experience.  We have same issue with Chevy Volt - very few technicians remaining.

 

I put zero faith into what other claim they are getting - most of the time these claims which sound really good

are not backed up with any measured values / photos / over a period of time.   Local around town driving

is nothing compared to driving on a bay area freeway at 70+ through rolling hills.

 

We have the chargepoint charger - so I can provide quantified examples of what our 2014 will take from empty, 4.5 to 5.2 kWh.

The trip data can help show measured energy pulled from battery  - I have seen 4.2 - 4.6 kwh full to empty.

We have 62K miles and car is driven mixed 50/50 between freeway 70+ / hills and local streets.

Unfortunately, I didn't keep good records when the vehicle was younger so I can't be sure when / if battery changed..

 

The data i would like to see is in the individual cell voltages - I have an app for the Volt.   Does Forscan or any OBD readers

help with cell voltages?

 

My point - everyone needs the ability to quantify the health of battery.   It sucks for all of us  Ford can't ( OR DOESN"T )

provide a full report on a compete battery cycle.     In theory, manufactures should be capturing and providing battery

information for the owner - but this is obviously a business decision to not provide information to the owners.

If we don't know the HV battery health - the expectations for mileage is meaning less.

 

I hope they find a technician that can help dig into the issue.

 

Yes Forscan does have that. And I've been able to pull them up. Problem is I don't know what they're supposed to be vs what they are.

 

They still have my car. Had it since June 13th. And today they are charging it and driving it in real world scenario but they said they got 12 mi on the charge. Now they plugged it back in and are trying once again. I asked them "what have you actually done and they said nothing". They said the checked Codes, reset stuff and checked codes again and nothing. So my car has been at this place for almost 2 months and really nothing has been done except it getting hit by a fuel truck and having to go to body shop and getting repaired and hurting my cars value. I had to fight with their insurance to get a checked for diminished value. 

[jsamp]

On 4/14/2022 at 7:36 PM, mfusion said:

We live in SF Bay area - drive up hill on the freeway to get anywhere - range on battery 10-14 miles.

If we could drive around town under 40 MPG it would probably get 18+.

 

Looking back at one of your earlier posts.... if you are accelerating uphill on the freeway in EV mode, you are overtaxing your battery.  It is not recommended (by those here on the forums anyway) to use EV mode on the freeway, or at least only use it to cruise at fwy speeds.  Hills and acceleration, in conjunction with freeway speeds is too much demand on the battery.  That will kill some of the life out of the battery.

 

I realize you also had a C-Max Energi before this, but that wasn't as old as this was it?  Year after year of overtaxing the battery will take it's toll.

[mdntblu]

On 8/5/2022 at 9:02 PM, jsamp said:

 

Looking back at one of your earlier posts.... if you are accelerating uphill on the freeway in EV mode, you are overtaxing your battery.  It is not recommended (by those here on the forums anyway) to use EV mode on the freeway, or at least only use it to cruise at fwy speeds.  Hills and acceleration, in conjunction with freeway speeds is too much demand on the battery.  That will kill some of the life out of the battery.

 

I realize you also had a C-Max Energi before this, but that wasn't as old as this was it?  Year after year of overtaxing the battery will take it's toll.

I’m the OP and I did have a C-Max and I don’t cruise uphill at freeway speeds in EV mode. There are a few other people posting on this thread as well so there’s mixed info. If you read only posts from me you’d see what my issues are. 

[jsamp]

Yeah, I got your posts and those by mfusion confused.  Sorry.

[mdntblu]

UPDATE: 8/29/2022

I got the car back after almost 3 months and they said there was nothing wrong with it.

They are saying that getting 12 miles on a 2018 car with 44k miles on it is normal. So I guess Ford deems it's totally fine which means people that are getting 12-14 miles on a charge with a car that is 8 years old and has over 100,000 miles on it are just lucky. I'm really frustrated at this point as this is totally not acceptable to me because I don't drive my car hard, infact I try and get as many miles as possible on a charge but doing that hasn't proven to even keep the battery healthy enough to allow me to continue the 18-21 miles per charge when it was new from the factory. 

[cr08]

On 8/29/2022 at 2:51 PM, mdntblu said:

UPDATE: 8/29/2022

I got the car back after almost 3 months and they said there was nothing wrong with it.

They are saying that getting 12 miles on a 2018 car with 44k miles on it is normal. So I guess Ford deems it's totally fine which means people that are getting 12-14 miles on a charge with a car that is 8 years old and has over 100,000 miles on it are just lucky. I'm really frustrated at this point as this is totally not acceptable to me because I don't drive my car hard, infact I try and get as many miles as possible on a charge but doing that hasn't proven to even keep the battery healthy enough to allow me to continue the 18-21 miles per charge when it was new from the factory. 

 

1) Ford won't warranty any battery degradation on these older vehicles (they've changed it though with the newer models like the Mach E and Lightning). Unless it is a full on failure that prevents the vehicle from driving, they won't do a thing. Also dealers will likely blow you off as long as the car drives.

2) Have you done a proper battery capacity test? The 'guess-o-meter' you are referencing with the miles of range will vary wildly depending on various conditions and is not an accurate indicator of battery capacity. Here's how to do the proper capacity test:

 

a) Fully charge the battery

b) Drive in EV mode only. Avoid conditions that can cause the ICE to start like driving on the highway or using heat. If the ICE starts, this completely invalidates the test results

c) Do one full drive until the battery depletes. Once it drops to hybrid operation, safely find somewhere to stop and shut off the car.

d) The trip summary you get on the dash will show how much KwH was used. If the test was followed correctly, this should be a relatively accurate indicator of battery capacity.

 

I'm not terribly familiar with the Fusion's specifically relating to the new battery chemistry and capacity in newer model years. The 'old' battery capacity on earlier model years should be 5.5kwh brand new. Anything above 4.0kwh is still 'good'. Below that you are getting into decent degradation.

[davedawg]

I have a 2013 Fusion Energi with 52,000 miles (purchased new) and I'm experiencing some of the issues that others are having as well.  In the past year, even after replacing the 12volt battery at a local Ford dealer, the HVB miles of range after a full charge has gone down from approx 20-22 miles to 11-13 miles.  In addition, on highway trips driving at speeds of 60 mph used to achieve MPGe of 44-46; at speeds of 70-75 it would achieve 40-42 MPGe.  Now those performance numbers have dropped to 37mpg at 60mph; and 32 mpg at 70-75 mph.  I had it at the dealer for several weeks and their alibis were frustrating...lack of qualified techs, busy, waiting for calls from Ford Hotline, etc.  The end result after I demanded my car back was 6 hrs labor for $750 and that the battery is suffering normal degradation.  They quoted $10,000 for replacement.  I'll drive it until it fails.  An independent shop can put an aftermarket HVB in for about $6k if and when the time comes.  Not happy with Ford and dealers that can't service the cars that their sponsor company manufactures and I've passed that message on to the dealer.  talking to a wall.

[mdntblu]

On 12/13/2022 at 11:28 AM, davedawg said:

I have a 2013 Fusion Energi with 52,000 miles (purchased new) and I'm experiencing some of the issues that others are having as well.  In the past year, even after replacing the 12volt battery at a local Ford dealer, the HVB miles of range after a full charge has gone down from approx 20-22 miles to 11-13 miles.  In addition, on highway trips driving at speeds of 60 mph used to achieve MPGe of 44-46; at speeds of 70-75 it would achieve 40-42 MPGe.  Now those performance numbers have dropped to 37mpg at 60mph; and 32 mpg at 70-75 mph.  I had it at the dealer for several weeks and their alibis were frustrating...lack of qualified techs, busy, waiting for calls from Ford Hotline, etc.  The end result after I demanded my car back was 6 hrs labor for $750 and that the battery is suffering normal degradation.  They quoted $10,000 for replacement.  I'll drive it until it fails.  An independent shop can put an aftermarket HVB in for about $6k if and when the time comes.  Not happy with Ford and dealers that can't service the cars that their sponsor company manufactures and I've passed that message on to the dealer.  talking to a wall.

 

Yup I agree with you. However I heard from a few people on Facebook that this dealer local to me has changed the battery in their car under warranty so yesterday I actually took my car to this dealer and dropped it off. I called Ford Corporate and made a new claim as well for them to followup with them. So crossing my fingers that my car with 45k miles will actually work correctly like a car that has 45k miles on it. If not I'm going to sell it and get a new Plug-in Hybrid. Thinking about getting the Jeep Wrangler 4xe as I have a 2014 Jeep Wrangler that I tow behind my RV and I can just make the 4xe my daily driver instead of the Fusion and also tow it behind my RV. Best of both worlds. Can probably get $20k for my Jeep and $20k for my Fusion and take that $40k and spend another $15k and get the 4xe. I think I can find one for $55k.