GE Wattstation Install/Review

[Scooter80]

A couple of weeks ago I received my GE Wattstation after I saw it at a reduced price on Amazon and I placed my order.

Price: I got it for $799 plus tax.

Shipping: Shipped free due to Amazon Prime. Unfortunately the shipping carton was really tore up when I got it, but the retail packaging ended up being fine and the unit was untouched as well.

Packaging: Unboxing of the retail package confirmed there was no damage to the unit in shipping as it is nicely packaged by the GE factory line. It comes wedged in the box with some nice heavy cardboard ribbing and the shiny black fascia is covered in sticky film, protecting it nicely.

Prep for Install: I had a fairly easy time of this as I have experience in electrical work and am generally pretty handy. That coupled with the fact that my house's electrical panel is in the garage made this pretty simple. It took me about 3 hours to do it, and I added a couple extras for the future. Since the unit is rated 7.2kW/30 amps, 240v, I installed the recommended 40 amp double-pole breaker in my box and ran my EMT conduit (required in my area for enclosed AND exposed work) the 20 or so feet from the back of the garage to the side adjacent to where the vehicle's charge port is. I then added a NEMA 1 6x6x4 box which would house a kWh meter for just this circuit. I then dropped to the 4x4 box which would house the NEMA 6-50 outlet. I mounted the unit after I installed the 6x6, but before I mounted the 4x4 so I would know exactly where I needed to put the 4x4 since the cord on the unit is quite short (as required by codes, UL, and good practice). Got it all wired, pushing the three 8awg conductors from the 6x6 into the panel and then the other end form the 6x6 into the 4x4. I did this as it was a good height for the 20 or so foot push and made it an easy straight shot with only one 90 to turn. I also knew I'd need some slack in the 6x6 for the meter install. Got it all wired up and was met happily with my meter powering up as expected and a nice white LED ring on the GE as soon as I pushed the power button. I just need to cut out the 6x6's cover plate to allow the meter panel to fit through. It's pretty heavy gauge steel and I sold my band saw awhile back. I'm still debating how to do it.

Install: Follow the instructions!! Some complained that the screws/bolts they used didn't clear the bracket. Use 1/4" lag bolts in an appropriate length into a stud or blocking as they recommend and there will be no such issues. There is also a recommendation for concrete wall anchors if you have that. Using the bracket as a template as the unit itself is quite heavy, I marked the wall and drilled pilot holes for the lags. Keep in mind when laying out and marking that the mounting bracket is a bit (4" or so) shy of the top of the unit, so you will need to account for the extra clearance you'll need. After pilot holes drilled, I ratcheted in the lags through the nice sturdy aluminum mounting bracket. A note on this: The unit has a key-lock that allows the unit to be locked to the bracket, preventing theft. Unfortunately the key cylinder does not have a notch in it to allow you to remove the key in the unlocked position. This makes sliding the unit onto the mounting bracket a bit more difficult as you have to "thread" the key through the hole in the bracket and then slide the unit onto the bracket. But once this is accomplished the unit sits on the bracket positively and securely. The only problem I have with it is I can rock the unit a bit as there is a bit too much clearance between it and the wall. I'll shove a shim of some sort back there to prevent it. It's nothing major, just a little less secure feeling, though there is clearly no danger of it falling off the wall.




Review: I'd like to first point you to Amazon.com to look up the wattstation and read the reviews there. Those, and the sale price are what led me to buy this unit. Like others have described, the unit has a zero-draw power button so you can turn it completely off when you leave with the car so there is no phantom drain. When you power it on, it boots up quickly, cycling the LED lights to show you its working. The LED ring around the handle storage then illuminates letting you know its ready. This stand-by mode, even with the LED ring constantly illuminated only draws 4 watts. Plug it into the car (unfortunately the handle has no light itself, so beware of this) and in a second or two, a nice "thunk" of the relays inside the unit lets you know she's going to work. The unit emits a subtle electrical hum or buzz as others have described, but its nothing you'll hear through the wall or anything. Mine is on a wall that is directly below the wall of our master, so I'd know if it did! All in all, seems well built.

Charge Time: My wife and I got home from the mall that night with a completely empty battery. Hooked it to the charger and got our nice thunk. I then looked on the MyFordMobile app and it showed a full charge was due 2 hours and 40 minutes later. I was notified 2 hours and 15 minutes later that the charge was complete with 20 miles range. It's still a bit chilly here, especially overnight, so I'd imagine that is why I haven't ever seen more than 21 on a full charge like some others. I couldn't be happier with a 2-2.5 hour charge time though! Awesome!

The Meter: I went with an EKM Smart meter so I can expand it in the future with the ability to view usage via the web. This was also a pretty easy install. I ordered a package complete with the Current Transformers, power taps and fuseable links to completely install and protect the meter. I odered solid core CT's as I was running new wire and could thread my 8awg though the CT's with no issue. Those with existing work can order split-core CT's that "clamp" right over the power wires to prevent having to redo wiring. These CT's then wire right into the meter with their attached pigtails. EKM provides the option of power taps that clamp over the power mains, pierce into them via a weather tight gasket and allow tapping into them without creating a junction somewhere which can be extremely bulky with the required 8awg mains. I then ran 16awg stranded from these taps to the power feeds on the meter. It requires all three (L1, L2, and a N/G) to be connected so it can get a voltage reference to more accurately provide kWh). The draw from the meter itself is very minimal.

Mounting the Meter: This was the most difficult part of the install. The meter mounts on a DIN rail. I ordered the short piece they offer on their website. I did NOT order their enclosure that they also offer as I have to be in a metal enclosure by code so i can pass secondary ground through it and all the conduit. So that is why I used the 6x6x4 NEMA 1 box. But this required some modification as it was too deep for the meter. This was also a plus though as now the space behind the meter will allow the power taps a place to reside without interfering with the viewing of the meter. Anyways, I needed to drill and tap the back of the box to allow me to mount the DIN rail about 1-1/2" off the back. This will allow the space and will allow the meter face to protrude through the box's cover plate. I used two short pieces of 3/4" aluminum square stock to space the DIN rail off the back. Attached with 10/24 screws into the previously tapped holes, it is a nice sturdy mount for the meter. I wired it all up and snapped the meter on the rail, fiddling with all the heavy wiring behind to make room.

Thoughts on the Meter: Though I'll probably never see a payback on the cost of the meter and the materials to install it, I am pretty geeky and love tech, so the ability to view my usage on the web was a big draw to me. You can get a compatible EKM meter that will work with your L2 charger for cheaper, but you won't have the web access. I don't have it yet either as it will be another $100 or two in addition to my more expensive meter, and I couldn't justify it to my wife yet. But I did get the newer version of the meter to allow this expansion. I'll need to add an EKM push comm box and then some sort of web access. I think I'll go with a WiFi link as I do not have ethernet anywhere near the garage.


Well, I hope this helps with anyone deciding on the GE or an L2 charger as a whole. I know the GE is overkill for the Fusion as it will only accept little more than half of the GE's output, but I did it with the future in mind. Maybe the Fusion will allow more amperage in the future or maybe I'll use the GE with a different car in the future. Either way, I am now prepared. That, in addition to mine and my wife's odd schedules, quick charges are sometimes in order, so the included Ford L1 charger didn't cut it. That has been wrapped up, put back in the car and will be used at my wife's work as soon as she finally gets the ok, :fingers crossed: She's on 12's so there'll be plenty of time for that!


Edit to add charge data:

4-8-13: Full charge from completely depleted battery took 6.9kWh. My current rate is about 9 cents, making the full charge cost about 62 cents. Very cool!

 

Edit to add Charge Profile Chart:

 

4-20-13: Another charge of 6.8kWh.  Also found that the total stand-by draw of the charger (INCLUDING the LED ring), if you decide to not turn it off with the pushbutton, is 4 whole watts.

Edited April 21, 2013 at 05:03 AM by Scooter80

[PlugMeIn]

Thanks for the awesome review!  In order to be here, we all have to be pretty geeky!  :superhero:

[Scooter80]

I edited my original post to add a chart of the Charge Profile for those who've been wondering what wattage when! Enjoy!

[Russael]

I'm curious about something -

 

Can you show us the electrical draw from the charger if you have a go time set with climate?  I'm very interested to see what kind of draw it pulls from the grid while your car is pre-heating or pre-cooling.

[Scooter80]

I'm curious about something -

 

Can you show us the electrical draw from the charger if you have a go time set with climate?  I'm very interested to see what kind of draw it pulls from the grid while your car is pre-heating or pre-cooling.

 

Sure thing!  Once I got my excel worksheet and chart to work right, this is easy!

 

You can see there is very little power being drawn during go-time warmup. Might be different on much colder days or during a go-time cooldown. We'll see!

 

Edited April 21, 2013 at 10:12 PM by Scooter80

[Russael]

That... is not what I was expecting at all.  35 watts?  If your car was set for 72 degrees, was it 71 when it started? :)  In essence, I'm looking to see if the car can draw more than the 3.5kw it did while it was charging.  One of the Ford Owner videos indicated that go times needed the 30 amp charger (which you have), but I only have the 16.  I'm wondering a bit if that's why some people are having problems with go times, etc.

 

But you did mention your garage temp was 40... If your car was 72 when you got inside it in a 40 degree garage and it only needed 35 watts from the grid, I'm stupified.  I was one of the participants in the Fusion Energi Lunch Date and one of the things the Ford engineer said is that the car has a 5,000 watt heater onboard.  That is *huge*.  5kw is enough to heat an entire garage.  What I wanted to see is if the car, knowing it was connected to a 7.2kw charger, could draw 5kw from the grid for pre-conditioning.  The car may be limited to a 3.3kw onboard charger, but is that bypassed for cabin conditioning is what I'm trying to determine.

 

Unfortunately the data your meter gathered doesn't support anything according to the Ford numbers for charging requirements.

 

... when did your car finish charging?  If you plug in when you get home and finish by 8pm, then I can't say that your cabin was up to temperature due to the heat given off by the battery circulating around.

 

I don't know.  That datapoint doesn't make any sense to me. :)

[Scooter80]

Well, I'll throw a hitch in the giddy up. Just spoke with my wife who drove the car to work early this morning. She says the car was "not really that warm", "but I'm not really sure." But she also said she was running a little bit late and didn't get in until a bit after the go time. So I can't be sure if it worked properly. She said yesterday worked much better, but I don't have the data for that, it overwrites every 1,000 reads (minutes). I'll try to capture some more go times to get a better sense of what it's doing. I'll also try to do so when it is charging and then goes right into a go time, and also when using the key fob to remote "start" which I have personally used and know it is highly effective at prepping the cabin.

 

As far as the above data, the car had finished charging the night before. You can see the 4w standby power being consumed at the beginning of this newest chart.

 

I think I watched that lunch break on YouTube that you're speaking of. I don't recall the 5kW heater part, but it certainly seems incorrect at this point and a bit overkill. But my chart certainly isn't the authority either.

Edited April 22, 2013 at 01:09 AM by Scooter80

[Russael]

I'd love to see a couple more data points if you're willing to try to capture them.  When you run the heater in your car (if you do), did you ever take a look at the energy draw from the accessories to see how much energy it's pulling from the battery?

 

Anyway, I'd love to see what you get remote starting the car too.

 

Thank you for capturing what you did.  I appreciate it.

[Scooter80]

For giggles, I just hit the remote start while it is charging and went out to look at the meter. Still only drawing 3.3kWh, charging and starting.

[Russael]

Was your cabin warm already?  I wonder if it stopped charging to put that energy at the climate system, or if the climate system was ignored and it just kept charging... so many variables.  I might have to get one of those meters too.  LOL

 

Anyway, I would've been irritated at myself if it was able to draw up to 6.6kw from a supported charger.  :)

 

Thank you much good sir.

[murphy]

My car was in the garage over night at 47 degrees.  The battery was fully charged.  I had a Go time set for this morning at 72 degrees.  It took about 15 minutes for the car to warm up and consumed 1.1KWH.  I have the 3.8KW charger.

[Scooter80]

Was your cabin warm already?  I wonder if it stopped charging to put that energy at the climate system, or if the climate system was ignored and it just kept charging... so many variables.  I might have to get one of those meters too.  LOL

 

Anyway, I would've been irritated at myself if it was able to draw up to 6.6kw from a supported charger.  :)

 

Thank you much good sir.

 

Yeah, cabin was probably mostly warm now that I think on it. Wife was only home for a half an hour or so from an empty HV battery.

 

I think no matter what charge point, what combo of go times, starts, climate, etc. this car as equipped and programmed (firmware), will never draw more than the on-board charger is rated at.

[Scooter80]

My car was in the garage over night at 47 degrees.  The battery was fully charged.  I had a Go time set for this morning at 72 degrees.  It took about 15 minutes for the car to warm up and consumed 1.1KWH.  I have the 3.8KW charger.

 

Yeah, though that number seems really high for 15 minutes, I'd say its more on par and that my go time didn't work as intended today.

I'll try more this week.

[Scooter80]

Just finished charging and I pulled the data down. It actually drew 100w less during the remote "start" 10 minutes than the rest of the charge cycle.  Just a quick chart this time, so ignore the numbers on the bottom and the name.

 

Edited April 22, 2013 at 03:04 AM by Scooter80

[Russael]

Good to know that it still has a maximum consumption of 3.3kw or so.  With Murphy's numbers, he would've been pulling down 4.4kw if he consumed 1.1kw at15 minutes.  I could see him consuming 1.1kw at the 20 minute mark; that puts it at the 3.3kw limit.

 

Good stuff.

[murphy]

My car was in the garage over night at 47 degrees.  The battery was fully charged.  I had a Go time set for this morning at 72 degrees.  It took about 15 minutes for the car to warm up and consumed 1.1KWH.  I have the 3.8KW charger.

 

Here is the actual pre-heat profile.

This is the full house load so subtract 0.9 KW from the graph to get the pre-heat load.

 

[Russael]

Looks like it's a variable heater which is awesome.  Peak is probably 5kw from the battery, but to maintain cabin temperature, it looks like it can reduce the draw between 0 and 5kw, rather than just adjusting fan speed.

 

Thanks for the graph.

[tri-town]

I just installed the Indoor Wattstation  (Model #EVWSWBH-CP02) and I come to find out that the plug does not fit into the Energi.  What's up with that?!?!  I've never had an issue before with a plug not fitting into the car.   Maybe I should have tested that the plug works before installing everything, but I thought it was all universal.  This really sucks!

 

I am assuming that the Wattstation being discussed here is the Indoor/Outdoor model (Model # EVWSWBC-CP01)?  I really like the look and feel to the wattstation so if I buy that model it should work, correct?  Either way, I am calling GE to let them know about this. 

[Scooter80]

I just installed the Indoor Wattstation (Model #EVWSWBH-CP02) and I come to find out that the plug does not fit into the Energi. What's up with that?!?! I've never had an issue before with a plug not fitting into the car. Maybe I should have tested that the plug works before installing everything, but I thought it was all universal. This really sucks!

 

I am assuming that the Wattstation being discussed here is the Indoor/Outdoor model (Model # EVWSWBC-CP01)? I really like the look and feel to the wattstation so if I buy that model it should work, correct? Either way, I am calling GE to let them know about this.

Both models you have cited come with the car-side (wired per SAE J1772 spec) plug. One of them also has a plug for the house-side that you would plug into an electric dryer-type 220v outlet. The other model wires direct to your house wiring, no plug needed and it's enclosure is not exterior rated.

Again, both should have a plug that goes into the car. If not, maybe you got someone's return. Someone who ripped off wherever you bought it from.

[Fat Fusion]

Does the plug "look" like it should go in?  Maybe a little sandpaper to knock off any high spots on the plug would take care of it.

[tri-town]

I purchased it from Home Depot.  It could have very well been a return....argh!

 

It definitely looks like it should fit.  The clip though is too big and stops it from going deep enough for the car to recognize it.  GE emailed me back though regarding my situation.  Here is their information in case anyone in the future needs it:

 

For Customer Service:
Telephone:      1-855-443-3873 - 1-855-4GE-EVSE
Email:          wattstation.support@ge.com

[lonzo71]

I just brought mine and will be getting it installed soon. How does everybody that has one liking it still? Any issues?

[lonzo71]

I'll be installing my this Friday! Just glad I'll be able to use the go times just in time for winter!