Kmart Posted July 21, 2020 at 05:42 PM Report Share Posted July 21, 2020 at 05:42 PM I purchased a 2017 Energi with 5k mikes in January. I live in MD and since the temperatures have increased I find that when charging the vehicle it will fault out after 20-30 minutes of charge time. I will disconnect and reconnect and the same process will repeat. Does anyone have the same issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murphy Posted July 21, 2020 at 06:33 PM Report Share Posted July 21, 2020 at 06:33 PM Does the receptacle you plug in to get hot? If it does it may not be wired correctly. The plug has temperature sensing built in. If the receptacle is the type that has holes for the wire to be inserted, that is fine for a table lamp but not recommended for continuous high current. The wires should be wrapped around the screw and clamped tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kmart Posted July 22, 2020 at 12:08 AM Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2020 at 12:08 AM Good reply, I am an electrician and the receptacle that’s is used is a 20 amp dedicated circuit. You are correct regarding the stab lock terminals on receptacles. These should be banned by the NEC, no one should use these for anything. The plug itself does get very warm but the fault that shuts the charge down shows up as a car fault most times. The faults did occur some in the spring but since the summer is here I may have to disconnect and reconnect as many as 8-10 times to charge the car. radionerd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzicman61 Posted July 22, 2020 at 04:13 PM Report Share Posted July 22, 2020 at 04:13 PM I'm here in Arizona where the temperature in my garage is well over 100 degrees. Heck, the outside temperature is over 100 degrees so the garage is probably much higher. I've never had any issues charging in that heat. I do have a dedicated 20amp circuit I use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kmart Posted July 22, 2020 at 06:33 PM Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2020 at 06:33 PM Thanks for the reply. I believe that either there is a problem with the charger or something within the car battery system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
16vjohn Posted July 27, 2020 at 06:25 PM Report Share Posted July 27, 2020 at 06:25 PM Kmart: The charger is inside the car, so you're pulling 120v at XX amps through the receptacle, through the charger cable, thorugh the J1772 port, through the wiring in the car to the onboard charger. From what you describe, it still sounds like an overheat to me. I'd be curious what kind of voltage drop you observe on that receptacle when the car is charging. Anything below 105-110v and things are going to heat up. I'd suspect there to be a check engine light or DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) stored if something on the car side was failing. Look into getting an ELM327 device and installing FORScan on your Windows laptop. Or... just take it to the dealer since that should qualify for warranty diagnostics. Side note: try a different charger if you have access to one, or go find a public charger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj2me Posted July 28, 2020 at 05:54 PM Report Share Posted July 28, 2020 at 05:54 PM Quote ... it will fault out ... If you're using the Ford charging cord, check your owner's manual in the "High Voltage Battery" section for the table that tells the probable cause depending on the charging cord's status indicators. If you fell under the charging cord recall and got a replacement from Ford, you may have to look at a more recent owner's manual that refers to the newer charging cord. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevon Posted September 30, 2020 at 06:43 AM Report Share Posted September 30, 2020 at 06:43 AM (edited) Kmart, That does seem odd, the Fusion only charges with 12amps at 120 VAC I believe and a 20 amp dedicated Receptacle would be at way lower power use than the 80% rule of thumb. Even a 16 amp EVSE L1 model should work all night with no problems. I would check the Receptacle quality, you don't require hospital grade but an industrial quality and screwed in tight should suffice. What exactly trips? the house breaker or the EVSE? Does it feel warm to the touch? Stephen Edited September 30, 2020 at 06:44 AM by stevon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionChamberMD Posted November 10, 2020 at 11:31 PM Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 at 11:31 PM I had this happen as well (infuriating). I checked the ford charging cable that came with the car and it was VERY close in serial number to recalled chargers. I bought a new charger from Amazon (off brand) and haven't had a problem since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.