No start after replacing 12v 2013 energi

[Geriatricsanatore]

Hello! So I'm having a problem with my vehicle and my usual compotent Google fu is not helping track down an answer or even a starting point. Back story: fiancee may have left lights on which finally killed the 12v battery in the trunk or at least that's my working theory, the car was completely dead and I tried jumping it using the points under the hood, when I went to start it with the push button it blinked rapidly and a warning saying stop safely now came on the dash, which I found humorous as of course the car was already stopped! Anyway, I have some knowledge of your standard ICE Motors so figure the battery is either going out or dead. Took the battery to parts store and it tested bad. Bought a new battery, replaced it and I'm still getting the blinking light from the start button and the warning to pull over safely now. My question is could there be a fuse that potentially blew when the 12v died? Is there a way to possibly reset the whole car? Any further diagnostic I can do to determine if this has caused a bigger problem like a dead HV battery? I can't afford to have it towed to a shop nor can I afford really replacing the apparently 6000 dollar battery. Any insights or tricks or sacrifices I can do to get this thing running again will be greatly appreciated. 

[murphy]

Disconnecting the 12 volt battery resets the car.  It will take up to 25 miles of driving for the engine to relearn its operating parameters.  The HVB can't be fully discharged, the car will protect it.  If you plug the car in does it begin charging the HVB?  Basic question:  Are you depressing the brake pedal before pushing the start button?  That is required.

 

A dead 12 volt battery should not cause any other problems.

[Geriatricsanatore]

1 hour ago, murphy said:

Disconnecting the 12 volt battery resets the car.  It will take up to 25 miles of driving for the engine to relearn its operating parameters.  The HVB can't be fully discharged, the car will protect it.  If you plug the car in does it begin charging the HVB?  Basic question:  Are you depressing the brake pedal before pushing the start button?  That is required.

 

A dead 12 volt battery should not cause any other problems.

 

OK I will try this thank you for the reply, too answer questions yes when I plug in the hvb the ring comes on, and yes pushing brake down, I really hope it's this simple I've had no problems with this car till now. Quick follow up, how long should I leave it unplugged/disconnected to ensure it resets? 

[murphy]

12 minutes ago, Geriatricsanatore said:

 

OK I will try this thank you for the reply, too answer questions yes when I plug in the hvb the ring comes on, and yes pushing brake down, I really hope it's this simple I've had no problems with this car till now. Quick follow up, how long should I leave it unplugged/disconnected to ensure it resets? 

You already had it disconnected while you were getting the new battery.  A minute is probably long enough.  Will the engine start if you put it in EV Later and floor the accelerator pedal in Park.

 

Any chance you have an OBD reader and could check for codes?  Do you know how to put the car in Engineering mode and display codes?

[Geriatricsanatore]

55 minutes ago, murphy said:

You already had it disconnected while you were getting the new battery.  A minute is probably long enough.  Will the engine start if you put it in EV Later and floor the accelerator pedal in Park.

 

Any chance you have an OBD reader and could check for codes?  Do you know how to put the car in Engineering mode and display codes?

Yeah that thought came to my head after I disconnected it and of course no change from just disconnecting and waiting 10 minutes, engine will not start at all it does make the normal clicks when I push the start/stop button, I'm checking all the fuses I can find now to see if maybe one got blown when we tried to jump start it. It is charging from the outside port and my hvb battery indicator shows half full. Just weird that the car was fine, 12v battery died and now these issues are coming up after replacement. No access to obdii reader, and can find out how to get into engineering mode. 

Edited December 18, 2019 at 05:28 PM by Geriatricsanatore

[Geriatricsanatore]

1 hour ago, murphy said:

You already had it disconnected while you were getting the new battery.  A minute is probably long enough.  Will the engine start if you put it in EV Later and floor the accelerator pedal in Park.

 

Any chance you have an OBD reader and could check for codes?  Do you know how to put the car in Engineering mode and display codes?

Ok so I was able to get into engineering mode and I got a dtc c41282 but I'm having trouble finding any info online for that particular code. Any ideas where I can look? 

[murphy]

Energi Engineering Test Mode

Hold the left OK button and start the car.
Watch the upper left corner of the left display for the letters ET to appear in yellow.
After the letters appear release the OK button.
Use the down arrow to scroll through the screens.
Press and hold the OK button or shut the car off to exit engineering test mode.

MFT Engineering Test Mode

Press and hold the Eject button and the >>| button.

 

[Geriatricsanatore]

8 minutes ago, murphy said:

Energi Engineering Test Mode

Hold the left OK button and start the car.
Watch the upper left corner of the left display for the letters ET to appear in yellow.
After the letters appear release the OK button.
Use the down arrow to scroll through the screens.
Press and hold the OK button or shut the car off to exit engineering test mode.

MFT Engineering Test Mode

Press and hold the Eject button and the >>| button.

 

I got the mode going and got a code that I can't find online dtc c41282 under history it has an x 

[murphy]

I don't know what that is.  Ford codes are usually the letter P followed by a 4 digit number.

 

Do you have a voltmeter?  If you do, verify that the HVB is charging the 12 volt battery when the car is on.  The voltage on the battery terminals should be at least 13.8 volts if the battery is being charged.

 

[Geriatricsanatore]

38 minutes ago, murphy said:

I don't know what that is.  Ford codes are usually the letter P followed by a 4 digit number.

 

Do you have a voltmeter?  If you do, verify that the HVB is charging the 12 volt battery when the car is on.  The voltage on the battery terminals should be at least 13.8 volts if the battery is being charged.

 

Ok so when I hook my voltmeter up it shows 11.7 when I hold brake down and push button it doesn't change. I'm trying to get a obd2 reader this afternoon. Thank you for your continued help! 

[murphy]

11.7 volts means the 12 volt battery is not being charged.  When you open the door and get into the car you will hear contactors clicking.  That is the HVB being connected to the car.  The HVB drives a DC to DC converter that converts the HVB voltage, which is around 350 volts, to the correct voltage to charge the 12 volt battery.  According to a battery chart that I have 11.9 volts is considered to be a discharged battery.  Either the contactors are not pulling in to connect the HVB to the car or there is a problem with the DC to DC converter.  If it isn't working that could explain the errors since most of the electronics in the car run on 12 volts.  It's worth a shot to pull and reinsert the HVB disconnect.  It is located behind the passenger side rear seat back.  Fold down the seat back to get to it.  It is not dangerous to do this in spite of the fact that you are disconnecting and reconnecting a high voltage.  The car should be off when you do this.

[Geriatricsanatore]

2 hours ago, murphy said:

11.7 volts means the 12 volt battery is not being charged.  When you open the door and get into the car you will hear contactors clicking.  That is the HVB being connected to the car.  The HVB drives a DC to DC converter that converts the HVB voltage, which is around 350 volts, to the correct voltage to charge the 12 volt battery.  According to a battery chart that I have 11.9 volts is considered to be a discharged battery.  Either the contactors are not pulling in to connect the HVB to the car or there is a problem with the DC to DC converter.  If it isn't working that could explain the errors since most of the electronics in the car run on 12 volts.  It's worth a shot to pull and reinsert the HVB disconnect.  It is located behind the passenger side rear seat back.  Fold down the seat back to get to it.  It is not dangerous to do this in spite of the fact that you are disconnecting and reconnecting a high voltage.  The car should be off when you do this.

No luck with that but I was able to get a obd2 reader and got the following codes;

 

P0a0a safety devices? 

U0412 still looking up info for that one

U0111 lost communication with battery energy control module A

P0b37 service disconnect open 

 

If anyone can provide insight I would greatly appreciate it! 

 

For one of the codes it says a possible blown fuse on the HVB? Where is this fuse and is this possible or am I interpreting them wrong possibly? 

[Geriatricsanatore]

I was able to clear the u0412 whatever that was and the u0111 bug the p0a0a and the P0b37 still remain, anyone have ideas? I'm coming up empty in my searching. 

[murphy]

P0B37    High Voltage Service Disconnect Open

P0A0A    High Voltage System Interlock Circuit

 

P0B37 may have been caused when you pulled the disconnect.  Make sure it is fully reinserted and see if you can clear the code.

I can't find any reference to "High voltage system interlock" in the wiring schematic for the car.

 

https://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-chart

 

Read this document.

 

https://www.nfpa.org/-/media/Files/Training/AFV/Emergency-Response-Guides/Ford/Ford-Fusion-PHEV-and-HEV-2013-2018-ERG.ashx?la=en

 

P0A0A may also be caused by pulling the service disconnect.

[rowekmr]

I had a no start condition after I dropped the car off to get a detail. They called me and said it wouldn't start so I brought my pocket size jump start battery because I knew the 12v battery was weak (went dead on me when I left radio on/engine off a few hours). When I arrived I found the electric seat switch on so I assumed they left them on while cleaning car and 12v battery went dead right? Well the jump would light up dash but no green car symbol. Had it towed to Ford and found the BECM module was bad. We believe they got water in battery tray and the BECM measures current going from battery to frame (leakage?) and blew to protect system. Module was $500 and several hours to replace it and new 12v battery and I was good to go. I know this is not your issue just saying it can be more than the 12v battery.

 

Ford initially was saying it could be bad HV battery too but I told them I doubt it went bad in a few hours and told them to do thorough diagnosis. They pulled a few codes and the one I found info was related to the BECM and there was a service bulletin on it in a unrelated matter that helped me deduce what was the problem and what caused it (there was water in battery tray)

[Ruby]

On 12/18/2019 at 1:34 PM, murphy said:

  It's worth a shot to pull and reinsert the HVB disconnect.  It is located behind the passenger side rear seat back.  Fold down the seat back to get to it.  

This saved my a**, thank you!  Stuck on a mountain with a dead 12V battery, dead car, and the Stop Safely warning - managed to get a battery delivered, installed it,  but still she wouldn't start,  and kept giving the Stop Safely message

 

thank God I found this thread,  because disconnecting and reconnecting the HVB totally worked!

 

Thanks a ton,  Murphy, and reseating that connection completely was a little tricky