Neil Posted June 24, 2019 at 09:11 PM Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 at 09:11 PM (edited) My Fusion has 105k on it now and I'm getting some vibrations and grinding when braking heavily. I checked the front brakes and they look brand new (rotors excellent too) but the rear brakes are shot. Pads are worn and the rotors are scored. I've always done my own brakes and have been looking at several videos people have posted. There seems to be a lack of consensus on if you use a brake tool to screw the piston back into the caliper or press it in with a C clamp. I'm looking for someone who has done it themselves and can tell me which method they used. I know I have to put the brakes in 'Maintenance Mode' for the rears and I can do that fairly easily. I've done it twice now just to make sure I can. I have a piston compression tool that I have used on all of my other cars, or can get a loaner from Autozone to do the screw type method. Also, how difficult was it to get the rotor off of the hub? When I looked at the front I removed the Caliper and the gave the rotor a few shots with a hammer and it didn't budge. I'm not too concern since I didn't really try that hard - There is a threaded hole that I can put a bolt in that'll push it off the hub if I need to. Nothing a heavier hammer can't fix :) Thanks - Edited June 24, 2019 at 09:12 PM by Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Posted July 20, 2019 at 08:21 PM Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 at 08:21 PM Replaced the rear brakes/rotors today and answered my own question. Although the Caliper pistons look like they are the 'twist in' type, they are supposed to be compressed. It's actually kind of interesting. I borrowed a brake compression tool set from Autozone with the keys for spinning a piston. The key fit the holes on the piston, but it only tuns a little bit and does not retract. I used my normal caliper piston compression tool and it slid right back. Very easy. As usual, the first side I did took about 1.5 hours and the other side took about 20 minutes. It's so much easier when you have already done it once. The hardest part was getting the old rotor off. I had to bash it with a 3lb hammer to get it to budge. Even soaked the hub with penetrating oil prior to the bashing. The rotors and pads were horrible. When i was hitting the rotor with the hammer a ton of large rust flakes dropped out. Both inner pads were down to the rivets and the outer pads were close. The caliper pins all needed grease too. One was sticking a little bit. Overall it's a fairly straight forward job as long as you are not squeamish about beating on it with a hammer. Oh - also be sure to put the brakes in maintenance mode before you start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cold Fusion Posted March 13, 2020 at 06:49 AM Report Share Posted March 13, 2020 at 06:49 AM On 7/20/2019 at 4:21 PM, Neil said: Replaced the rear brakes/rotors today and answered my own question. Although the Caliper pistons look like they are the 'twist in' type, they are supposed to be compressed. It's actually kind of interesting. I borrowed a brake compression tool set from Autozone with the keys for spinning a piston. The key fit the holes on the piston, but it only tuns a little bit and does not retract. I used my normal caliper piston compression tool and it slid right back. Very easy. As usual, the first side I did took about 1.5 hours and the other side took about 20 minutes. It's so much easier when you have already done it once. The hardest part was getting the old rotor off. I had to bash it with a 3lb hammer to get it to budge. Even soaked the hub with penetrating oil prior to the bashing. The rotors and pads were horrible. When i was hitting the rotor with the hammer a ton of large rust flakes dropped out. Both inner pads were down to the rivets and the outer pads were close. The caliper pins all needed grease too. One was sticking a little bit. Overall it's a fairly straight forward job as long as you are not squeamish about beating on it with a hammer. Oh - also be sure to put the brakes in maintenance mode before you start. No how too on putting the brakes on maintenance... Please n thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Posted March 24, 2020 at 08:41 PM Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 at 08:41 PM (edited) On 3/13/2020 at 2:49 AM, Cold Fusion said: No how too on putting the brakes on maintenance... Please n thank you Putting the brakes in maintenance mode is relatively easy. I recommend looking on Youtube for a video, but here is a quick step-by-step. 1) Get in the car and press the [START] button WITHOUT your foot on the brake. (turning ACC on) 2) Press gas pedal to the floor with your foot and hold it there while pushing the Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) switch on the console down. Hold both the gas pedal and the EPB switch down and push the [START] button to turn the ignition off. 3) Within a few seconds, press the [START[ button again while still holding the gas pedal and EPB switch. The brakes will retract and a 'Maintenance Mode' light will light up on the dash. 4) Press the [START] button again to turn off the car and let go of the gas pedal and the EPB switch. Once you have replaced the brakes/rotors you need to reengage the EPB. To do that: 1) Get in the car and press the [START] button without pressing the brake. (turning ACC on) 2) Press the gas pedal to the floor and lift up on the EPB switch 3) While holding the gas pedal and EPB switch press the [START] button again. (turning ACC off) 4) Release the gas pedal and the EPB switch 5) Put your foot on the brake, and press the [START] button (turning the car back on). The 'maintenance' light should be off. Hope that helps! Edited March 24, 2020 at 08:43 PM by Neil jj2me and jsamp 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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