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Charging from a GFCI outlet


4cylinder
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I live in a rented townhouse so I can't install a Level 2 charger (even if I could, I'd just be giving my landlord a very expensive gift when I move out).

 

The only outlets in my garage are the GFCI type, and ever since I bought the car I've been charging from that outlet.

 

99% of the time it's never a problem, but when there is extreme cold (e.g. the deep freeze that SE Michigan endured during the last week of January, which saw temps plunge to -25C), the outlet has a tendency to trip - and it'll keep tripping within seconds of me resetting the switch as long as the car remains plugged in. The only solution is to wait for the weather to warm up (fortunately it doesn't need to be TOO warm - at least -15C is good for the most part). During these cold snaps, I literally cannot charge my car indoors anymore. 

 

Thus, I'm seeking the help of those with a more advanced understanding of electric circuits. Specifically, what exactly do you think is causing the GFCI to trip, and why does it exclusively happen during extreme cold? These are the possible culprits I've gathered from some Googling:

  • The heating system in my house works overtime (I can hear it whirring loudly) during such weather, and my townhouse's grid can't handle the load of both the heater and an EV charging at the same time, so it sacrifices the garage outlet.
  • The extreme cold causes the car to draw more current from the outlet to keep the battery warm while charging (I am least confident about THIS theory as I believe GFCI doesn't protect against current surges)
  • There is some kind of earth leakage in my townhouse but it doesn't manifest except in extreme cold (if that even makes any sense...). If this is the real issue I could probably get my landlord to fix it, but the inability to reproduce it outside of extreme cold might make it hard to diagnose. 
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I can't see #1 as being the culprit because the GFCI outlet doesn't know what your heater is doing.  Unless the heater is causing a voltage drop on the entire house, the GFCI is blind to the heater.  #2 shouldn't be it either because the car limits the 120V current at 12A, so it should never go up.

 

My guess would be that for whatever reason the GFCI itself is sensitive to the cold and causes it to trip more readily than normal.  Just my guess though.

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Interesting... I didn't think of the GFCI circuitry itself being sensitive to the cold, but that does sound plausible. The grid in my townhouse isn't of the highest quality - for example the circuit breaker trips within seconds when I have my TV on and a space heater active at the same time in my living room! Meanwhile my electric toothbrush charger always trips the GFCI in my bathroom within 2-3 hours, forcing me to reset it every morning. 

 

Is there such a thing as the GFCI circuitry "going bad" over time, or just being "low quality"? My townhouse was built in 2001 if that's relevant.

 

Anyway, this annoyance does make me glad to have a PHEV rather than a full EV (for once) - otherwise I would be in trouble and might have to go out and freeze my behind off to charge at a public Level 2 station lol. Can't wait till I can get my own home and actually install a proper charging station...

Edited by 4cylinder
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It is possible that the Ford EVSE sends a small current through the ground connection to verify the ground connection exists.  That is what a GFCI is designed to detect.

None of my EVSEs are on a GFCI circuit and never will be.  My refrigerator is also not on a GFCI circuit. 

 

See if the circuit you are using has any fluorescent lights connected to it.  The spike coming from the ballast when the light is turned off will trip a GFCI.

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It is possible that the Ford EVSE sends a small current through the ground connection to verify the ground connection exists.  That is what a GFCI is designed to detect.

None of my EVSEs are on a GFCI circuit and never will be.  My refrigerator is also not on a GFCI circuit. 

 

See if the circuit you are using has any fluorescent lights connected to it.  The spike coming from the ballast when the light is turned off will trip a GFCI.

 

My garage has a door opener and a crappy old light bulb as far as I can see. There is just one pair of outlets connected to the same GFCI switch. Also, the tripping has only happened during extreme cold - do you know if that could impact the wiring or grounding somehow? Thanks.

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My garage has a door opener and a crappy old light bulb as far as I can see. There is just one pair of outlets connected to the same GFCI switch. Also, the tripping has only happened during extreme cold - do you know if that could impact the wiring or grounding somehow? Thanks.

In extreme cold, opening a door into the garage would allow warm air in which would have a much higher humidity.  If it hits a cold area condensation can form.  Are the cover plates for the outlets made of metal?  If they are change them to plastic to see if that solves the problem.  Condensation is not normally a conductor of electricity but it might be allowing a very small current to flow from the hot prong to the ground prong of the outlet.  That is what the GFCI is looking for.

 

Another test, assuming there is a door from the house directly into the garage, would be to not use that door to get into the garage but instead use the main garage door to get into the garage to see if that solves the problem.  Opening the main garage door, or a man door that comes in from outside would let cold dry air into the garage instead of warm humid air.

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In extreme cold, opening a door into the garage would allow warm air in which would have a much higher humidity.  If it hits a cold area condensation can form.  Are the cover plates for the outlets made of metal?  If they are change them to plastic to see if that solves the problem.  Condensation is not normally a conductor of electricity but it might be allowing a very small current to flow from the hot prong to the ground prong of the outlet.  That is what the GFCI is looking for.

 

Another test, assuming there is a door from the house directly into the garage, would be to not use that door to get into the garage but instead use the main garage door to get into the garage to see if that solves the problem.  Opening the main garage door, or a man door that comes in from outside would let cold dry air into the garage instead of warm humid air.

 

Makes sense! Unfortunately (or rather, thankfully!) the polar vortex is long over and won't be back for quite some time (hopefully) so I can't run a test now, but I've saved this info in my notes for the next time the cold blast hits my area. 

 

My outlets are plastic so that can be ruled out. 

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I think the mechanical and electrical components sensitivity in them vary widely, even in same brand.

 

I have a couple in a bathroom that were all installed at the same time and one pops with just a minimal plug in of a USB charger. The others don't.

 

In my two-bathroom townhouse, there is one GFCI switch in one bathroom that also controls the outlet in the other bathroom, so if there's a trip in one bathroom, both bathrooms' outlets stop working and I have to reset. My electric toothbrush charger trips it every day within 2-3 hours of resetting. A space heater will trip it within 1 minute. 

 

Looks like mine are just super sensitive...

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  • 3 months later...

GFCIs trip on an imbalance in current between the hot terminal and the neutral terminal.  Some EVSEs verify the ground connection is present by sending a small current through the ground terminal.  That current could trip a GFCI because it isn't going through the neutral.  If the input to the EVSE is inductive, the kick back while the magnetic field is building or decaying can also trip a GFCI.

 

I only have GFCIs in the bathrooms, kitchen, and laundry room.  I had to rewire my kitchen to get the refrigerator off of a GFCI.  I don't need a refrigerator full of spoiled food because a GFCI tripped when I wasn't home to detect it.

 

The only GFCi in my garage is a plug in unit that I use when using AC powered tools in the yard.

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Curious then if you precondition the car (without gfci problem while plugged in) does the charger kick in right away to replenish the loss?

Preconditioning (GO Times) with a 240 volt EVSE is done using wall power.  Preconditioning with the 120 volt EVSE is also done using wall power which makes it almost worthless since only 1440 watts (120 volts times 12 amps) is available.

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Curious then if you precondition the car (without gfci problem while plugged in) does the charger kick in right away to replenish the loss?

 

Preconditioning is as Murphy says.  Remote start will use the maximum power of the particular accessory that is running until your set temp is reached.  A/C draws about 3000 - 3500 watts, the heater 5000 or more.  A 240v EVSE can keep up with the air conditioner, but cannot with the heater... it'll use both wall and battery.  If it's super cold, like around 10 F, there is a significant chance the ICE will come on even if it is plugged in.

 

I've also seen my EVSE automatically kick on at various times to top off the 12v battery.

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