Custom Audio?

[musicmafia]

anyone adding any oomph? thinking of adding a amp/woofer/box or tube in trunk and crossing over the interior spkrs to just handle mids/highs....this has worked great in my last 2 cars but not much room in that trunk to spare...any ideas on installs?

[meyersnole]

The only project I have seen is a speaker upgrade on the Sony HD system.  http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/1790-new-speakers-with-sony-audio/?p=11594

 

One thing that you will have to be careful with modifying any of the sound systems is the noise canceling systems built into the car. You might end up with some very strange noises.

[musicmafia]

I have had custom audio installs done on every car I've owned...in my opinion full range 6x9 speakers always distort at high volume from bass....I used to rip up every panel in my car and finally realized a cheaper and easier method was to simply add a separate high quality amp and one high quality 10" subwoofer (usually in a custom box in the trunk) and simply crossover all the interior speakers to just handle mids and highs, which stock speakers can do just fine. Because of the limited trunk space in the FFE (on order) I have no idea where to put a tube or box but I enjoy a challenge.  Will definitely do some research on the noise cancellation systems and make sure my installer is very familiar with it before going down that road.

[meyersnole]

In the past I have also done ever increasing amounts of custom audio to my cars. In the last vehicle (an Acura TL) I has started with a Rockford Fosgate 360.1 paired to two amps; a five channel JL bridged to drive the sub, front center channel, and rear speakers and than a two channel JL to drive the fronts. I think it was pushing nearly 900 watts. I used Focal for everything but the sub, which I had a box built in the trunk 10 inches. I sounded amazing... and it should for the nearly 4 grand I dumped into it. 

 

2 years later the temperature swings in the trunk (where the amps and digital sound processor were located) I had damaged both the sound processor and the larger amp. It took about another year before I lost the other JL. The tweeters up front also fell into the dash where the glue came loose, leaving me with out highs... and before the front amp went it took one of my front speakers with it.

 

Each of these failures lead to more and more expense.

 

From now on, I pay attention to the sound system and make it part of my buying decision. (This was another reason I liked the Fusion over the Avalon hybrid). My last car totally cured me of messing with the stereo. Yes, it sounded amazing when it was working. When it failed it drove me nuts. Good luck!

[musicmafia]

I hear ya, I've had some problems in the past and it can be frustrating and expensive.. I made a decision like you did not to do full installs again....don't know if you saw my last post but I have found the easiest and cheapest upgrade is to leave the interior alone and simply add a high quality powered sub in the trunk and cross the interior speakers to just handle mids and highs...this makes a big difference in sound and separation and allows a lot more volume since the stock speakers get no bass....this is my happy medium between ripping the whole car apart and spending thousands or leaving it stock and being frustrated about the audio performance... this is what ive done last couple of cars and has worked beautifully...hoping I can do the same with the FFE. fingers crossed.

[meyersnole]

I hear ya, I've had some problems in the past and it can be frustrating and expensive.. I made a decision like you did not to do full installs again....don't know if you saw my last post but I have found the easiest and cheapest upgrade is to leave the interior alone and simply add a high quality powered sub in the trunk and cross the interior speakers to just handle mids and highs...this makes a big difference in sound and separation and allows a lot more volume since the stock speakers get no bass....this is my happy medium between ripping the whole car apart and spending thousands or leaving it stock and being frustrated about the audio performance... this is what ive done last couple of cars and has worked beautifully...hoping I can do the same with the FFE. fingers crossed.

Actually, that is what I did on the last install. Left the stock head unit and swapped out everything else. Wires, speakers, amps, and sound processor. When it worked it was wonderful.

 

If I had it to do over again, I would not. 

[mmmhmmmm]

I've got 2 Infinity Reference 8" subs mounted in the rear deck. They are powered by a fosgate punch 100ix. I installed a signal processor between the factory Sony 'amp' and my sub amp to process the bass signal.

 

I've got mb quart 6 1/2" 2 way components in each door. Those were direct replacements using the stock Sony speaker baskets for mounts (THIS DESTROYS THE STOCK SPEAKERS)

 

I cut the wires to the 3 active noise canceling mics. Also had to use dynamat, expanding foam, and caulk to stop the rear deck from rattling. I've used 4" studio foam to decrease the air volume between the hv battery and rear and to loosely form an enclosure.

 

It sounds very good. I can turn up the bass through the signal processor and shake the house door in it's frame. Not that I listen to music like that, but the potential is there!

[mmmhmmmm]

One additional note... this was my winter project this year and took a lot of time!

[mmmhmmmm]

Deleted. Had posted incorrect info.

Edited May 17, 2014 at 12:05 AM by mmmhmmmm

[musicmafia]

sounds like a good setup...I should probably consider the back deck because of so little space in the trunk....do you think 2 10's would fit there?

[meyersnole]

sounds like a good setup...I should probably consider the back deck because of so little space in the trunk....do you think 2 10's would fit there?

 

I doubt the depth you are looking for with the 10s would work with out some major modification.

[musicmafia]

ok, back to the trunk it is ;)

[Russael]

I found that the wiring for the passenger side sub was reversed thus causing the two subs to cancel each other.

If you are suffering from lack of bass try reversing polarity on the passenger side 6x9 sub.

 

 

Did you measure that with a multimeter or something?  The connectors only go on one way.  I kind of felt that the Fusion's system lacked some oomph (my GF's 2012 Focus with the Sony system sounds more punchy and just generally better... considerably louder too.).

[mmmhmmmm]

Did you measure that with a multimeter or something? The connectors only go on one way. I kind of felt that the Fusion's system lacked some oomph (my GF's 2012 Focus with the Sony system sounds more punchy and just generally better... considerably louder too.).

No after I had installed everything the bass was pathetic and wimpy. It didn't make sense. I started experimenting and switched polarity on the passenger side sub and WHAM!! BASS!!

 

Switching polarity would require cutting and resplicing the wiring to the factory connector.

Edited May 16, 2014 at 11:33 AM by mmmhmmmm

[mmmhmmmm]

sounds like a good setup...I should probably consider the back deck because of so little space in the trunk....do you think 2 10's would fit there?

I don't think 10s will fit either. Maybe if you move the battery ducts.

These fit after some cuts with the dremel tool: Infinity Reference 860w 8-Inch 1,000-Watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Single Voice Coil)

[Russael]

No after I had installed everything the bass was pathetic and wimpy. It didn't make sense. I started experimenting and switched polarity on the passenger side sub and WHAM!! BASS!!

 

Switching polarity would require cutting and resplicing the wiring to the factory connector.

 

Did you use existing wiring?  You indicated that you have 8" subs in the rear deck.  Did you replace the 6x9 or did you add your 8" to them?

 

I suppose I could try just unplugging one of them and see if the sound improves and listening at low volume to see if I can tell a difference.  I did find a wiring diagram too... I could always check to see if both grounds are closest to the rear of the car (they should be flip flopped), but that won't help if it's backwards at the amp.

[mmmhmmmm]

**Correction!** My car's wiring is/was correct.

 

 

I replaced the factory 6x9s with those 8" subs. It was very easy to swap polarity because I had already cut the wires to the factory subs. I have the factory sub wiring going into my signal processor. Everything after that processor is new. Imagine my confusion after installing this stuff. I'm watching these subs bang out beats, but making very little noise.

What I found was the polarity is backwards coming out of the factory amp. One sub is out of phase. I don't know which one, but the factory wiring diagram is wrong.

To make the polarity switch easier I recommend removing the right-side panel and unwrapping some of the wiring harness starting at the amp. This will expose more of that sub's wire and make it easier to work with. You can always repair your work if it doesn't help.

Also The results of this test will be diminished if you haven't disabled the active noise cancelling microphones.

Let us know what happens (if you try). I think my car's OEM absence of bass was due to 1)active noise cancelling and 2)reversed polarity on one sub. I never got to see what the factory 6x9s sounded like when connected properly, having discovered this after installing everything.

If this works be prepared to hear your car rattle like there's no tomorrow! (Stopping rattles has been a project of its own)

Edited May 17, 2014 at 12:07 AM by mmmhmmmm

[mmmhmmmm]

I just noticed your comment about unplugging one of the speakers. That's exactly how I discovered this. I unplugged a sub and was greeted with BASS!

The sound system was one of my huge dislikes with this car. I really, really like this car now!

[Russael]

Tested this theory and I don't hear much bass out of them in general.  Tried unplugging one and the bass seemed to have lessened.  I need a new multimeter anyway so I may go get one later and do it the 'ol fashioned way. :)

[mmmhmmmm]

Tested this theory and I don't hear much bass out of them in general. Tried unplugging one and the bass seemed to have lessened. I need a new multimeter anyway so I may go get one later and do it the 'ol fashioned way. :)

It will be difficult if not impossible to test with a multi meter because the signal is a sine wave. The voltage will vary between positive and negative.

 

It sounds like the addition of an external sub amp is critical to getting good low frequency sound.

 

I will go verify this wiring right quick.

Edited May 16, 2014 at 11:41 PM by mmmhmmmm

[mmmhmmmm]

Arghh! I traced the wiring and the factory manual is correct.

The reason I thought otherwise was due to low lighting conditons. I had lost the white stripe on one of the speaker wires!

 

So sorry for posting bs!

[mmmhmmmm]

Here are some photos of my installation:

 

Precision Power INT.5B signal processor (creates a low level signal from the factory sub outputs)

 

Here is where the remote and factory sub wiring enters the Precision Power INT 5B. Not pictured is the harness containing the power and ground wires.

 

Close up of the left rear 8" Infinity Reference sub. Pipe insulation is to keep the torsion bars from rattling. Foam is to fill the airspace. I figured that might help tighten the bass. These 8" subs really do the trick!

 

I mounted the signal processor and amp on top of the HV battery. So far no issues. Note the "Great Stuff" expanding foam sealant in the cavity near the top of the picture.

 

and..the other side. I've replaced my trunk light with a super bright LED panel, but retained the factory connector...hence the nasty glob of electrical tape near the top.

 

I place 4" studio foam along the ridge to partition this shelf from the rest of the trunk.

[Sledge0001]

Okay I am heading down this route soon myself so I have to ask a few questions...

 

1. I assume you tied the power and ground directly to the small little 12V battery is this correct?

2. I also assume you used the lighter socket for the accessory power?

3. How does your 12V battery handle the extra load?

4. Any issues with lights dimming at full volume?

5. Did you notice a significant loss in EV range with the extra amp and processor?

 

Thanks!

[mmmhmmmm]

Okay I am heading down this route soon myself so I have to ask a few questions...

 

1. I assume you tied the power and ground directly to the small little 12V battery is this correct?

2. I also assume you used the lighter socket for the accessory power?

3. How does your 12V battery handle the extra load?

4. Any issues with lights dimming at full volume?

5. Did you notice a significant loss in EV range with the extra amp and processor?

 

Thanks!

Cool! It sounds pretty good (still), but there is one improvement I really want to make. I'd like the subs to be in enclosures. The free air install is insanely strong with low frequencies and quickly cuts off. I'm worried that it might be the car's amp crossing over the signal though so I haven't touched anything. Anyhow, to answer your questions:

 

1. I assume you tied the power and ground directly to the small little 12V battery is this correct?

 

This is correct, with one small detail missing. I installed an Optima yellow top battery as preventative maintenance for an unrelated problem - the dead battery issue you may have read about here.

 

2. I also assume you used the lighter socket for the accessory power?

 

I didn't. The Precison Power unit I have doesn't use accessory power. It senses audio input and them does this nice soft on thing. That made installation a bit simpler as well. Another cool thing about the PPI unit, it has a remote output so that it can switch on my amp with this soft on.

 

3. How does your 12V battery handle the extra load?

 

Pretty well, I've never had any problems with it, BUT I ditched the garbage Ford battery immediately after purchasing the car and dropped in the Optima yellow I mentioed before.

 

4. Any issues with lights dimming at full volume?

 

Suprisingly no and I don't have a capacitor installed.

 

5. Did you notice a significant loss in EV range with the extra amp and processor?

 

I don't although it surely has some small effect because the 12V battery would need more charge when it runs.

 

One other thing, I remember thinking that I should have used a Precision Power amp because they have the soft power and signal processing circuitry built in. That would have been one less audio component in my trunk.

[mmmhmmmm]

Okay I am heading down this route soon myself so I have to ask a few questions...

 

1. I assume you tied the power and ground directly to the small little 12V battery is this correct?

2. I also assume you used the lighter socket for the accessory power?

3. How does your 12V battery handle the extra load?

4. Any issues with lights dimming at full volume?

5. Did you notice a significant loss in EV range with the extra amp and processor?

 

Thanks!

 

One more thing - invest in some dynamat (or a competetive equivalent), some Great Stuff expanding foam sealant, and caulk. The rear deck/trunk area rattled like nothing I've ever seen before going to work with these goods.

 

How much Dynamat? I bought a 100sq ft roll of this stuff and still have a lot (probably > half) left.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GTMat-Pro-50mil-100sqft-Bulk-Pack-Car-Audio-Sound-Deadener-DynaTape-Roller-/121264439918?hash=item1c3bec826e:g:t~0AAOSw8-tWXhei&vxp=mtr