Won't "start"

[Tikislammers]

2014 Energi Titanium. Drove normal day, parked and charged overnight. The next morning it would not start. Everything worked except it would not allow driving. Push button light kept flashing. "Close fuel door" error message kept coming on. Door was closed, button did not work. Cycled the door via trunk release. Nothing changed. Eventually called dealer service, called roadside assistance for two to dealer.

 

24 hours later the computer is telling them the car overheated, which it did not. Beyond that, they are stumped and sending data to Ford Corporate. Anyone else experience this oddity? Thanks.

[FordService]

2014 Energi Titanium. Drove normal day, parked and charged overnight. The next morning it would not start. Everything worked except it would not allow driving. Push button light kept flashing. "Close fuel door" error message kept coming on. Door was closed, button did not work. Cycled the door via trunk release. Nothing changed. Eventually called dealer service, called roadside assistance for two to dealer.

 

24 hours later the computer is telling them the car overheated, which it did not. Beyond that, they are stumped and sending data to Ford Corporate. Anyone else experience this oddity? Thanks.

 

Tikislammers,

 

Let me look into this a bit more. PM me your name, phone number, VIN, mileage, and dealer info. I'll see how I can help.

 

Ashley

[rocketfan]

2014 Energi Titanium. Drove normal day, parked and charged overnight. The next morning it would not start. Everything worked except it would not allow driving. Push button light kept flashing. "Close fuel door" error message kept coming on. Door was closed, button did not work. Cycled the door via trunk release. Nothing changed. Eventually called dealer service, called roadside assistance for two to dealer.

 

24 hours later the computer is telling them the car overheated, which it did not. Beyond that, they are stumped and sending data to Ford Corporate. Anyone else experience this oddity? Thanks.

 

I also have a 2014 Energi Titanium.  You have me worried because my Energi has not started for me 2 different times now.  

 

Both times, I got in, pressed the brake pedal and hit start and everything looked like it started but the car did not start.  I got a message saying press the brake pedal and hit start but no matter what I did (hit the brake pedal and hit start or try to change any of the screens), it would not start/ I also could not get the message to disappear (even by hitting the ok button on the steering wheel which usually clears up the message because all the screens were effectively frozen and could not be changed).  

 

Fortunately, my problem was fixed by me stepping out of the car, closing the door and locking the car from the key fob (which made the car beep the horn a few times), unlocking the car, getting back in and starting the car like I would normally do. Now I am worried that the next time this happens, I will need a tow.

[mmmhmmmm]

My 2013 Fusion refused to 'start' this morning in the garage. Is 48 degrees outside and the car has been sitting plugged 120v all night.

 

When I pressed the start button everything lit up but the little yellow wrench light (not check engine) came on and the vehicle would not enter run mode. The display on the left cycled through several errors including check manual, rear park assist failure, cross traffic alert not available, and a few others I've forgotten.

 

I put a voltage meter on the 12v battery and found a solid 12.85v.

 

After waiting a few minutes and while on the phone with roadside assistance the car 'started'

 

I drove directly to the dealer where I am now!

[mmmhmmmm]

There were a bunch of diagnostic trouble codes stored.

 

They're looking at this service bulletin:

SSM 32298 - 2013 C-MAX, Fusion/MKZ Hybrid/Energi - Possible Water Intrusion In Connectors

Some 2013 C-MAX, Fusion/MKZ Hybrid/Energi vehicles may exhibit various drivability or electrical concerns accompanied by one or more diagnostic trouble codes, with the most common being P26C3, P26CA, P26D0, P2800, P2802, U019F and U0284. On C-MAX inspect connectors C134, C140, C144, C1651, C1717 and C1812 for signs of water entry/corrosion and service as necessary. On Fusion/MKZ inspect connectors C146, C1651, C1812 and C2251 and service as necessary.

 

 

It's been raining a lot lately so maybe there's something here.

Edited May 15, 2014 at 01:29 PM by mmmhmmmm

[mmmhmmmm]

After lots of tracing and debugging the mechanic took apart the specified connectors and added dielectric grease. This will improve connectivity and help keep out water.

Something in the tr circuit is the culprit but no definitive answer.

[meyersnole]

Thanks for keeping us informed, bummer on your troubles...hope it is all straight now.

[mmmhmmmm]

I'm taking the vehicle back next week for further diagnostics. I'll post if anything is found. For now the dielectric grease might have helped!

[mmmhmmmm]

I'm taking the vehicle back next week for further diagnostics. I'll post if anything is found. For now the dielectric grease might have helped!

FOUND ON ROAD DEAD. One 2013 Fusion Energi.

 

This thing died on me today in heavy, fast traffic. I thought I was a goner! Somehow with super human strength I managed to push its dead bulk across two lanes of fast traffic to the side of the road. Not fun.

 

Good news... roadside assistance is on the way.

 

SHAME ON FORD for implementing complete system shutdown as the failure mode. Between the internal combustion engine and/or partial electric power this vehicle should limp home or at least limp to the side of the road.

 

My dealer appointment is tomorrow. I'll post what they find.

[murphy]

Wow.  I would not be able to do that.  Did the emergency blinkers at least still work?

 

The only moving incident I have had is shutdown of the adaptive cruise control in high speed congested traffic in a driving rain storm.  It doesn't reduce to normal speed control, it just stops working.  The only way to get to normal speed control in that situation is to go through the menus and switch from ACC to normal.  That's not something I care to try while in the middle of three lanes of traffic. 

 

If the engine computer crashed it's probably not possible to run the engine since it's computer controlled.  Without the computer the "go" pedal is useless.  It's just a variable resistor that tells the computer its position by the value of the resistance.

[mmmhmmmm]

After being towed to the dealer; about 30 miles of rough riding guess what.... it started. GRRRRR!

 

Intermittent issues are the most challenging to fix.

[mmmhmmmm]

Wow.  I would not be able to do that.  Did the emergency blinkers at least still work?

 

Yep blinkers still worked, dash lit up, car would shift into Neutral (good for pushing).

 

I suspect either a wiring fault or faulty module.

 

I hate to think what would happen if this happened to my wife and kids. They will no longer be going anywhere in THIS car!

[mmmhmmmm]

I hate to think what would happen if this happened to my wife and kids. They will no longer be going anywhere in THIS car!

OK that was too negative. On second thought I will let her drive it again once she passes a physical and is able to push it 30 feet up a slight incline!

[murphy]

After being towed to the dealer; about 30 miles of rough riding guess what.... it started. GRRRRR!

 

Intermittent issues are the most challenging to fix.

Did they do a DTC readout?  Whatever happened should still be stored in the memory.

[mmmhmmmm]

The first time I took it in and they looked for dtcs but didn't find anything definitive. Hopefully this time is different. Dealer was closed by the time the tow arrived. I'll know more tomorrow I'm sure.

 

This time I took a video of the error message barrage

"See manual

Check park aid

Cross traffic system fault

Press brake to start (very funny car)

Run power active

Collision warning not available

Check Park aid

Cross traffic system fault

See manual"

...repeat from Run Power Active

Edited May 20, 2014 at 11:29 PM by mmmhmmmm

[mmmhmmmm]

"Hey that's one of them fancy plug in cars!"

 

[mmmhmmmm]

Here is a video of what happens on the dash when the car dies and won't "start"

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZenEAngxm6U&feature=youtu.be

[larryh]

Here is a video of what happens on the dash when the car dies and won't "start"

 

I was greeted to a similar onslaught of error messages once when the car failed to charge the 12 V battery when the car was on and plugged into the charger, but the charger was turned off. The 12 V battery voltage fell below 6 V. ET mode showed several DTCs after the incident. A scanner revealed several comm failure DTCs. It looks like several of the modules are not communicating with each other. Edited May 21, 2014 at 05:22 PM by larryh

[tazaroo]

I have had the same junk happen to me one time.  I had just driven a few miles to pick my daughter up from school and then it happened.  I tried it 3 or 4 times and was about to call roadside assist when It started fine.  I never went to the dealer as it hasn't happened again.  I just assumed my 12v wasn't all the way charged. 

 

Something has to be done about this.  I hope ford is listening.  My leaf has given me no trouble.

[mmmhmmmm]

Crazy Robot Car is fixed! Big props to the service department here in my little Southern Indiana town!

 

The key to fixing this issue was that the car exhibited the symptoms for the service tech. It wouldn't "start" in the morning. They had to push it into their shop. After a lengthy search the tech found a wire in the transmission circuit with a pinhole in the insulation. It had corroded to the point that it was shorting. He repaired this wire and voila!

 

It's impossible to tell how the insulation was compromised. Wiring harnesses arrive at the factory preassembled. If a roll of wire was damaged at the harness assembly plant, who knows how many other vehicles would be affected.

 

For anyone interested in the solution, here is the description:

 

#1 - D02: Engine would not start

Customer states that vehicle would not start all morning. Called roadside assistance. After call customer tried to start vehicle again, and vehicle started. Customer stopped by shop to have vehicle checked for stored dtcs and inspected for issues. 

 

Caused by

"Verified no start/movement. Wrench lamp is on. Perform self test multiple DTCs (U codes) and PCM DTC 2801. KOEO 2802, KOEO-SOBDM-C DTC 2800 KOEO. Check OASIS SSM#32298 could apply. (6P013). Removed engine undershield front. Removed front bumper cover lover cover (8349). Inspected conectors C146-C1651-C1812-C2251, found no water intrusion or corrosion. Shop manual pinpoint test A. A1-DTC P2800-P2801-P2802 YES. A2-11.8 Volts YES."

 

"A4- Verify high resistance between C168C-7 and CN51-11-CIRCUIT#LET57. Test good from C175T to C1026-GOOD. Also from C168 to C146. Resistanec is between C146-C1026. Removed left inner wheel liner (16103). Found pinhole in white/green wire insulation near C146 above the connector (outside of it) corroded! Perform wiring repair. Retested. Verified repair. Repair location B2/BU."

[mmmhmmmm]

This may be relevant to those who are having similar troubles:

 

SSM 32298 - 2013 C-MAX, Fusion/MKZ Hybrid/Energi - Possible Water Intrusion In Connectors

Some 2013 C-MAX, Fusion/MKZ Hybrid/Energi vehicles may exhibit various drivability or electrical concerns accompanied by one or more diagnostic trouble codes, with the most common being P26C3, P26CA, P26D0, P2800, P2802, U019F and U0284. On C-MAX inspect connectors C134, C140, C144, C1651, C1717 and C1812 for signs of water entry/corrosion and service as necessary. On Fusion/MKZ inspect connectors C146, C1651, C1812 and C2251 and service as necessary. 

[Russael]

Awesome.  Glad to hear you got a great service tech who found the problem.  Of course, it would've been a lot more tricky if it HADN'T failed on him in the parking lot that morning.  Lord knows how many times my vehicles have made a monkey out of me at the service department. :)

[RevSteveP]

This happened to me today:

Stopped by the local hospital to visit a friend.  Was delighted to see 6 EV charging stations.

Pulled into the EV space, little blue lights flashed around the circle, so I walked off to visit my friend.

Came back after about 30 minutes and noticed the car was not charging.  No little blue lights.

Unplugged the car, got in and the yellow plug light flashed on and the error message that the car was still plugged in.  The car would not start, not shift, but it played the radio and made phone calls.  Got out plugged and unplugged the EV cable several times.  No luck.  Called Galpin Ford, no help, guy took my number, promised to call me with some suggestions.  Never called.  Tried to find a way to reset the car still plugged in notice.  Called Ford again, after waiting on hold for 20 minutes the tech guy says, well try unplugging the 12Volt battery.  Popped the hood, unplugged the battery, then the car starts running the diagnostic panels talked about by others.  No amount of pushing OK would get that to stop.  Now I get the golden spanner warning light, then the check engine light comes on, followed by the anti-skid light and the limited slip light.

Finally, I figure out how to pull the black 12V clamp off, plug it back in and the yellow Plug light went out so the car would start and I could drive home.  Ford never called back.

Got home and plugged in my 110 charger and it seesm to be charging.  Find out more in the morning.

 

[Hybridbear]

This happened to me today:

Stopped by the local hospital to visit a friend.  Was delighted to see 6 EV charging stations.

Pulled into the EV space, little blue lights flashed around the circle, so I walked off to visit my friend.

Came back after about 30 minutes and noticed the car was not charging.  No little blue lights.

Unplugged the car, got in and the yellow plug light flashed on and the error message that the car was still plugged in.  The car would not start, not shift, but it played the radio and made phone calls.  Got out plugged and unplugged the EV cable several times.  No luck.  Called Galpin Ford, no help, guy took my number, promised to call me with some suggestions.  Never called.  Tried to find a way to reset the car still plugged in notice.  Called Ford again, after waiting on hold for 20 minutes the tech guy says, well try unplugging the 12Volt battery.  Popped the hood, unplugged the battery, then the car starts running the diagnostic panels talked about by others.  No amount of pushing OK would get that to stop.  Now I get the golden spanner warning light, then the check engine light comes on, followed by the anti-skid light and the limited slip light.

Finally, I figure out how to pull the black 12V clamp off, plug it back in and the yellow Plug light went out so the car would start and I could drive home.  Ford never called back.

Got home and plugged in my 110 charger and it seesm to be charging.  Find out more in the morning.

When you first plugged in did the car start charging? The blue lights flashing in a circle mean the car & station are communicating. What does MyFord Mobile show? Does it show that the car charged at all? Did you check the app as you walked away to make sure the car was charging? Is there any info on PlugShare about these EVSE units not working or causing issues for others?

 

My practice whenever I use a public charging station is to watch to make sure I don't just get the blue lights flashing in a circle but that I actually see the quadrant flashing for charging before I walk away. I then usually pull up the MFM app on my phone to confirm that the car is charging and to see when it will be done charging. By that time the car should have communicated enough with the station to know at what rate it will charge and thus it can give me an accurate estimate of when it will finish.

[murphy]

You can configure MFM to send you a text message when the car starts charging.  I usually get the message before I leave my garage after plugging the car in.