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Cold Weather Observations


larryh
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It is if you want to spend time finding a TSB that impacts each module.  Turns out the Energi has 10, and I wasn't sure at the time how many modules it had that could take calibration updates... and I was lazy, and wound up paying 550 to have the updates, which I'm quite miffed about, but what's done is done.  The local mechanic charged me 80 - he did one update and misunderstood what I wanted, so I went back and he let me do the rest myself.  Far cry, and I know every module was updated on the Focus since I did it myself.

 

PCM - (P)owertrain ©ontrol (M)odule

 

I dont think they should charge anybody for updates, period...but i know, its someone's time and money...just wish it wasnt mine....But i'm going to ask my service rep how much they would charge me...just wondering...

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Those updates take time.  It took 45 minutes to load in the patch for the Focus instrument cluster.  The audio system was about 15 minutes.  PCM was around 30 minutes.  Considering the Fusion is much more advanced and has a lot more things to display, I'm betting the instrument cluster for that would take 1 1/2 hours.

 

I was at the dealership for 8 hours while they performed all of those system updates since there were so many of them for the Fusion, so be prepared to spend significant time there if you're able to get it done (especially for free).

 

Nice that Tesla sends all of that stuff over the air, so the cars are always updated, whether they visit a service center or not.

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As a software engineer, I would have thought they could hook the cars computer up to some sort of workstation and just run an update.  You would think a dealer could do this relatively easily.  What a bunch of BS.

 

BTW on these cold weather discussions, your going to have to expend energy to heat your car weather it's from your house, and engine heater, the ICE or resistive heater.  My advice would be to not worry about it and just stay warm.  Your just robbing Peter to pay Paul.

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As a software engineer, I would have thought they could hook the cars computer up to some sort of workstation and just run an update.  You would think a dealer could do this relatively easily.  What a bunch of BS.

 

BTW on these cold weather discussions, your going to have to expend energy to heat your car weather it's from your house, and engine heater, the ICE or resistive heater.  My advice would be to not worry about it and just stay warm.  Your just robbing Peter to pay Paul.

As to updates, I've always found that burning firmware takes a while, unlike software updates to a hard drive.

 

There are a couple of hard core hybrid people on these forums who would rather freeze than use their EV heat - they only use the seat heaters. Not me, I agree - go for the comfort!

Edited by stevedebi
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There are a couple of hard core hybrid people on these forums who would rather freeze than use their EV heat - they only use the seat heaters.

 

Freeze?  Who's freezing?  I'm not freezing, I'm used to it.  You think the Eskimos are freezing every day?   ;)

 

And the funny part is, you're freezing in LA?  Isn't it alot warmer there than the NE?  WAIT a MINUTE....

 

I just looked up historical charts for the weather in LA, average high's of 68 in December and rock bottom overnight lows of 47 in Janaury with highs still at 68.  Man on man, glad you got some heat in that Cmax!!

 

-=>Raja.

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Freeze?  Who's freezing?  I'm not freezing, I'm used to it.  You think the Eskimos are freezing every day?   ;)

 

And the funny part is, you're freezing in LA?  Isn't it alot warmer there than the NE?  WAIT a MINUTE....

 

I just looked up historical charts for the weather in LA, average high's of 68 in December and rock bottom overnight lows of 47 in Janaury with highs still at 68.  Man on man, glad you got some heat in that Cmax!!

 

-=>Raja.

Raja,

I didn't say you were freezing, I said they would rather freeze than use heat.

 

You are quite welcome to pass along your comments about LA weather to my daughter, who sets the seat heater to 5 and still demands the heat...

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As a software engineer, I would have thought they could hook the cars computer up to some sort of workstation and just run an update.  You would think a dealer could do this relatively easily.  What a bunch of BS.

 

That is exactly what it is.  They have a Windows based laptop with the Ford IDS software installed (you can actually download that for free - caveat:  to perform updates, you need an annual subscription to Ford to get access to the needed files, and that runs 800/year).  They use something called a Rotunda VCM II programmer (the newest units can do wifi), which jacks in to the USB port on the computer, and the other end to the OBD2 port on the car.  That programmer runs $1500.  DO NOT BUY ONE OFF EBAY.  Those are notorious for having the real guts ripped out and replaced with cheap knockoffs, and then they turn around and resell the now bogus programmer for 300 bucks.

 

Once connectivity is established, you can go in to the Programmable Modules section and check each one for a calibration update, and then update it if you so choose.  I didn't see a way to make the system perform an update in bulk, so it is individualized.  

 

As to why the dealerships won't do these updates unless a problem is presented... its all about the time needed for it.  As I mentioned, one calibration update can eat 45 minutes.  At dealer labor rates, that gets expensive.  I just wish there was a less costly home option for advanced users to perform this kind of work themselves.  It was kind of fun telling the service writer that her recall was already fixed by me.  His eyebrows definitely went up when I told him I used said programmer and did dealer updates to her ride.

 

This particular piece of hardware can do WAY more than just load files.  It is true dealer level diagnostics.  If your car is acting funny and a 100 dollar OBD2 scanner doesn't reveal any codes, this particular system can dig really deep and pull anything specific to that car.  It can do in-flight data recording and a load of other things.  Wish it came with an instruction manual or training. :)  It took me about 15 minutes just to figure out where I needed to go in that software.

 

And some of these posts should probably get bumped to a new thread or something...

Edited by Russael
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  • 2 weeks later...

Something new has surfaced... this time with my Go Times.  Now, when I use them to preheat my car, the fan never runs faster than the slowest setting, and the air coming from the vents is only warm at best.  I use a 240V EVSE.

 

Prior to having all of those updates performed, the fan would run at full bore up until the car reached my set temperature, and then would roll back to low.  The car would usually be nice 'n toasty.  Nowadays, it's barely warmer than ambient... it acts as if I'm using a 120v EVSE, which I'm not... but maybe I could try that and see if it impacts behavior.

 

I've tried removing the negative battery cable and leaving it sit for 10 minutes to reset all of the modules, but that doesn't seem to have made a difference.  I've sat in the car and adjusted Go Times to various times, temperatures, etc.  I can find the threshold for when the system turns on and off (based on ambient), but it behaves as if 'quiet start' is turned on (and that's only supposed to affect remote starting).

 

Remote starting still works great.  Car is warm, seats are warm, but it chews in to my available EV range.  Fan runs at full bore until the car reaches temperature.

 

So it seems a pile of things were fixed, but it broke something else.  I may roll to my local mechanic and see if he'll let me borrow his Rotunda VCM II again.

 

Current ambient temp is 42F.  I set the car to 65, 72, and 85... no change in behavior for all three temperatures.

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Something new has surfaced... this time with my Go Times.  Now, when I use them to preheat my car, the fan never runs faster than the slowest setting, and the air coming from the vents is only warm at best.  I use a 240V EVSE.

 

Prior to having all of those updates performed, the fan would run at full bore up until the car reached my set temperature, and then would roll back to low.  The car would usually be nice 'n toasty.  Nowadays, it's barely warmer than ambient... it acts as if I'm using a 120v EVSE, which I'm not... but maybe I could try that and see if it impacts behavior.

 

I've tried removing the negative battery cable and leaving it sit for 10 minutes to reset all of the modules, but that doesn't seem to have made a difference.  I've sat in the car and adjusted Go Times to various times, temperatures, etc.  I can find the threshold for when the system turns on and off (based on ambient), but it behaves as if 'quiet start' is turned on (and that's only supposed to affect remote starting).

 

Remote starting still works great.  Car is warm, seats are warm, but it chews in to my available EV range.  Fan runs at full bore until the car reaches temperature.

 

So it seems a pile of things were fixed, but it broke something else.  I may roll to my local mechanic and see if he'll let me borrow his Rotunda VCM II again.

 

Current ambient temp is 42F.  I set the car to 65, 72, and 85... no change in behavior for all three temperatures.

 

I'm seeing something similar now too, though I'm not sure the fan is even running. I have several go times set at 72ºF and I can't hear the fan running at all and the car is cold. 

 

Unfortunately, my remote start doesn't do anything either - All of the options under remote start settings are grayed out. :(

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I'm seeing something similar now too, though I'm not sure the fan is even running. I have several go times set at 72ºF and I can't hear the fan running at all and the car is cold. 

 

Unfortunately, my remote start doesn't do anything either - All of the options under remote start settings are grayed out. :(

 

This is now happening to me and the only thing I can think of has to do with the update to Sync.  Could that have messed this up?

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I actually now noticed something funky with my remote start too... the fan runs at full bore all the time.  I can literally finish driving to a destination, immediately remote start it, and the fan will run at full speed the entire time.  Seems my go times are completely stuck at the slowest speed, and my remote start is stuck at the highest speed.

 

I'll set up an appointment for this coming week to have them check the software again.

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Appointment come and gone... and I have to laugh.

 

In order to fix my Go Time issue, they wound up having to reload old software to the FCIM.  The A/C button illumination bug (where if the A/C compressor is running in full auto mode, the button doesn't illuminate) has been reintroduced.  I set the temperature to LO, heard the compressor kick on, and the button did not illuminate.  It worked great during the summertime while I was running the latest calibration... if the compressor was running, the A/C button would illuminate.  Never realized until it got cold that the latest calibration update killed Go Times.

 

OH well.  It's a little annoying, but I'd MUCH rather have working Go Times... well, I'd rather have BOTH, but who are we kidding? :)  I did email my service writer a report of said bug and told him to forward it on to the Ford Engineers, but I doubt that'll happen.  You never know though.  I could always send a bug report to my mom (who works for Ford) and see if she can find a way to get that bug to the right people for fixing.  Hopefully the service writer can do it though.

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I dropped my car off at the dealer this morning, they even gave me a loaner so I could leave while they work on the car.  I told him about the TSB 14-096 that was pointed out to me.  Even though that doesn’t include my car he said they can still apply it to see if that fixes the issue if they feel it might.  I also told them how others had to have the FCIM replaced to fix the issue.  He said they will check it out and let me know.

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I dropped my car off at the dealer this morning, they even gave me a loaner so I could leave while they work on the car.  I told him about the TSB 14-096 that was pointed out to me.  Even though that doesn’t include my car he said they can still apply it to see if that fixes the issue if they feel it might.  I also told them how others had to have the FCIM replaced to fix the issue.  He said they will check it out and let me know.

What ended up happening?

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  • 2 years later...

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