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I have a 2016 Fusion Energi SE with the stock sound system (4 door speakers, 2 tweeters in the front doors, and 2 6x9s in the rear deck). I'm pretty disappointed with the stock speakers and i didn't think the Sony system was worth stepping up to a titanium model when the Energi has so many of the other features standard already. So i want to upgrade the speakers but keep the stock touchscreen head unit without adding an amp but i have a few questions: 1.Does anyone know the output of the head unit to each speaker? 2. Would the Polk DB651 coax speakers work ok in the doors with that much power? - 4ohm, Sensitivity:92w, RMS:6-60w (that's what seems to be recommended on the non-hybrid fusion forums) 3. The rear deck speakers say 2ohm them, would it be alright to use a set of 4ohm Kicker ks69 6x9s?

After having my 2014 FFET for over a year and a half I find myself missing those deep bass notes that you can feel. In my opinion the Sony system does a decent job providing a nice punchy mid bass out of the front speakers but the rear deck is underpowered and the subs are not cutting it with lower end frequencies. So here is what I am going to do about it... I have purchased what will hopefully may be a great solution. Qty 1 x 10 inch Bazooka tube (Model BTA10250D) $250 that has a built in Class D Amplifier that puts out a *Maximum of 300 Watts @ 2 Ohms* if you power an additional BT1014 Bazooka Bass Tube. Qty 1 x 10 inch Bazooka Tube (Model BT1014) $130 Qty 1 x Remote Control Bass Module (Model RBCM-250D) $30 that should allow me to select a crossover frequency between 50HZ and 120HZ and offers a gain control. *Realistically I expect that this will really end up providing about 200 Watts (100 Watts to each 10 inch Bass Tube) which should bring a nice bit of growl to the stock system especially if the back seats are down. Considerations: 1. Will they fit? Bazooka recommends corner loading these tubes (firing the open end of the tube toward the trunk / back corners) which isn't really possible given the size of the trunk. However given that the specified dimensions of the Powered BTA10250D Tube is 10 3/8 Wide x 12 1/4 High x 20 3/4 Depth and the Passive BT1014 Tube is 10 3/8 Wide x 12 1/2 High x 21 9/16 Depth. As I measure the floor of the trunk I have found that I have 44 Inches wide and 12 inches from front to back which puts both of these fitting snugly but seated well in to the floor of the trunk. Now that doesn't leave a lot of room for the cabling but I have a feeling this is going to work perfectly. (Only time will tell since the dimensions on the web need to be exact) If the dimensions are off for any reason then I will be forced to mount the tubes on top of each other which isn't a terrible option but I would lose much more of the limited trunk space I am already giving up. 2. Power Consumptions: I have no idea just how much my normal 23-24 EV miles per charge will be impacted and if the 12V battery will even be able to handle the additional draw of a 300 Watt amp. I am certain that if I was to really crank these up I am guessing that I will lose about 1/2 to 1/4 of my EV range in no time. I don't think anyone can accurately predict this as I appear to be venturing into uncharted territory. 3. How will I power this system? I plan to tie directly in to the 12Volt battery located in the back of the trunk. I will be using the remote / accessory wire from the lighter socket in the rear to automatically turn the Powered Tube with amp on and off when the car is started. 4. On / Off Switch During the installation I will be adding an additional remote power switch (will be buried in the center console) that will allow me to completely shut off the amplifier power in the BTA1025D in event I really need to save my EV range although most of my trips are 7 miles to and from work. 5. Bass Control Remote: This will also be housed in the bottom of the center console where it is hidden from the outside world. 6. Noise Cancellation System: I will not be disabling the Noise Cancellation system unless I find that it is absolutely necessary. My hope is the On / Off switch will allow me to stop any funky noises coming from the bass tubes if the ANC kicks in and adds some weird tones. If I find that I am unsuccessful with keeping the Noise Cancellation System then as others have done I will be forced to unplug them from the head liner as cutting them from the amp isn't an option for me. This will be a last resort option as I do like the quietness of the car sometimes as well. Thoughts???