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Here are some: Name ShortName PID Equation Min Max Units Header Fan Speed Demanded FSD 220701 ((A*(25/1)+0)) 0 5000 RPM 0 Fan Speed Indicated FSI 220702 ((A*(25/1)+0)) 0 5000 RPM 0 Hv Battery Temp BaT 224800 ((A*(18/1)-580)/10) 0 200 Deg F 0 Hv Battery State-of-Charge SoC 224801 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/5)+0)/100) 0 100 % 0 Positive Leakage Voltage PLV 224803 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/10)+0)/100) 0 100 Volts 0 Negative Leakage Voltage NLV 224804 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/10)+0)/100) 0 100 Volts 0 Contactor Voltage Positive CVP 224805 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/10) 0 300 Volts 0 Contactor Voltage Negative CVN 224806 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/10) 0 300 Volts 0 Contactor Voltage Total CVT 224807 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/10) 0 300 Volts 0 Maxium Temperature Range MAX 224808 ((B*(9/5)-40)) 0 100 Deg F 0 Minimum Temperature Range MIN 224808 ((A*(9/5)-40)) 0 300 Deg F 0 Hybrid Battery Current High Range CHR 224809 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/100) 0 300 Amps 0 Battery Age age 224810 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/20)+0)/10) 0 100 months 0 Leakage Resistance Bus Positive RBP 224811 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/4)+0)/10) 0 100 K-Ohms 0 Leakage Resistance Bus Negative RBN 224812 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/4)+0)/10) 0 100 K-Ohms 0 Leakage Resistance Bus Overall RBO 224813 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/4)+0)/10) 0 100 K-Ohms 0 Maximum Discharge Power Limit MxD 224815 ((A*(25/1)+0)/100) 0 300 kW 0 Maximum Charge Power Limit MxC 224816 ((A*(25/1)+0)/100) 0 300 kW 0 High Voltage Battery Fuse Voltage BFV 224817 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/100) 0 300 Volts 0 Generator Coil Temperature GCT 224820 ((((A*256)+B)*(9/5)+32)) 0 200 Deg F 0 Generator Speed GEN 224821 ((((Signed(A)*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)) 0 10000 RPM 0 Generator Inverter Voltage GIV 224823 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/10) 0 300 Volts 0 Motor Inverter Temp MoT 224824 ((((A*256)+B)*(18/1)+320)/10) 0 300 Deg F 0 Motor Electronics Coolant Temp MeT 224832 ((A*(18/1)+320)/10) 0 200 Deg F 0 Hybrid Battery Minimum Battery Module Voltage MBV 224840 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/10)+0)/100) 0 100 Volts 0 Average Battery Module Voltage AvM 224841 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/10)+0)/100) 0 50 Volts 0 Gear Commanded GCM 221E12 ((A*(1/1)+0)) 0 100 state 0 Slip Across Torque Converter SLP 221E14 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/4)+0)) 0 500 RPM 0 Calculated Final Gear CFG 221E20 ((((A*256)+B)*(1/10)+0)/100) 0 5 Ratio 0 Hybrid Battery Current Low Range CLR 22480A ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/100) 0 100 Amps 0 Hv Current AMP 22480B ((((Signed(A)*256)+B)*(1/5)+0)/10) 0 300 amps 0 Hybrid Battery Voltage HBV 22480D ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/100) 0 300 Volts 0 Positive Hybrid Battery Pack V NHV 22480E ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/100) 0 100 Volts 0 Generator Torque from AC Src GTA 22481A ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/10) 0 500 Nm 0 Motor Inverter Voltage MIV 22481D ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/10) 0 350 Volts 0 Generator Inverter Phase Temp GiT 22481E ((((A*256)+B)*(9/5)+32)) 0 250 Deg F 0 Motor Coil Temperature MCT 22481F ((((A*256)+B)*(9/5)+32)) 0 250 Deg F 0 Modules VSC 22483E ((((A*256)+B)*(1/10)+0)/100) 0 100 % 0 Battery Modules VVM 22483F ((((A*256)+B)*(1/10)+0)/100) 0 100 Volts 0 Main ECU Voltage Supply ECU 22DD02 ((A*(1/1)+0)/10) 0 100 Voltage 0 Inside Car Temp InT 22DD04 ((A*(18/1)-400)/10) 0 100 Deg F 0 Outside Temperature AIR 22DD05 ((A*(9/5)-40)) 0 100 Deg F 0 Crankshaft Torque TRQ 22DD8D ((((A*256)+B)*(1/1)+0)/10) 0 500 Nm 0 Engine run time TmE 22F41F ((((A*256)+B)*(25/16)+0)/100) 0 1000 Min. 0

If the last time you drove it, you drove it like you stole it (fast, on the interstate, fast acceleration, used the heater or A/C a lot) the car remembers it, and the next time you try to use it, it will give you an estimation of you many miles it thinks you will get if you drive that way on this charge. If you baby it along, the 18-20 on the display might even go UP, as the computer reacts to how you're driving it, and how much battery is remaining...

This may be a symptom of the charge ring prematurely failing. I would take it to the dealer and complain. Ashley can possibly help you if the dealer is balky...

Add up all the options and it gets sort of expensive. You can get a Clipper Creek 240 V EVSE that matches the charge rate of our Energi for $395. Just wire it in to your 240V wiring and plug it into your baby and fill 'er up!

The computer connects and disconnects the charging current, based on the state of charge of the battery. When the battery is full, the charging current is disconnected, so you are not harming your battery.

I HATE those trips (even though I shouldn't!) They eat into my 80-90 mpg average. My head knows I should be tracking mpge, but my heart loves to see high mpg's!

As a side note to this thread, just got my first full 6-month bill from Allstate for my Fusion Energi... UGH! Liability at state minimums, Collision, Comprehensive (both with $500 ded), Uninsured motorist (Needed here with all the illegals), towing, rental coverage, and it ONLY cost $700 for the 6-month period! That's double the cost of my (admittedly older) Camry Hybrid, and three times the cost of my Nissan Frontier. I paid the bill, cause I love the car, but UGH!

Don't be concerned about shocking yourself. The plug that you are taking out to the car initially only has very low DC voltage on one of the sensing pins. The ground connection is first to mate, and last to break. Once the car and the charging station sense each other and that they are securely connected, they negotiate how much power they can supply/receive. Only then is power supplied to the one or two 110/220V pins. When you remove the connector, even during charging, the charger senses the disconnection and disconnects the power before the ground connection is broken. The design of the system makes it pretty safe! From Wikipedia: SafetyThe J1772 standard includes several levels of shock protection, ensuring the safety of charging even in wet conditions. Physically, the connection pins are isolated on the interior of the connector when mated, ensuring no physical access to those pins. When not mated, J1772 connectors have no voltage at the pins,[19] and charging power does not flow until commanded by the vehicle.[17] The power pins are of the first-make, last-break variety. If the plug is in the charging port of the vehicle and charging, and it is removed, the control pilot and proximity detection pins will break first so that the Power Pin Relay in the charging station will be shut off and no current will flow.

Thanks for trying it! It pretty much validated your initial assumptions. I did not think there would be much wind drag at 40 mph, and indeed there isn't. I want to give you some extended thanks for your posts in this thread! It makes my head hurt sometimes from trying to digest all the data, but it's helped me to learn a lot about how the car works, and about what the engineers were thinking when they programmed it the way that they did. It has some glitches (i.e. the way you have to fake out the climate system on engaging the A/C compressor), but all-in-all, it's a well-thought out system. Coming from a Toyota Camry Hybrid (the company who first widely implemented the PSD) the improvements in both hardware and software are staggering! Thanks again!

Ok, I see your point. In the ICE world, the Prius people using scanners have pretty much proven that the "pulse and glide" technique with brisk acceleration followed by coasting is better than continuous slow ICE usage to a speed setpoint, so I was just thinking about how it might apply to all-electric mode. Hoping to get the light flashers and horn honkers off my tail!

I'm wondering if you could use your OBD scanner to either confirm or debunk a myth. Conventional wisdom is that you need an "eggshell" touch on the accellerator pedal to get the best mileage. I don't know if that's true in electric drive mode. In a conventional engine, you rev the engine, you get more slippage of the torque converter, which gets converted to heat, more loss of power, etc. But in electric mode, there is no torque converter, no slippage as in a conventional engine. Your scanner could help get some data to tell the difference. Could you take the same distance, accelerate briskly to say 40 mph, then keep at 40 to the end, and count the kWh, then, "eggshell' babysit the same distance, just barely getting to 40 mph by the end of the distance, and count the kWh. At 40 mph, there shouldn't be too much difference in wind resistance, so that shouldn't play too much into the numbers... I think it would be an interesting experiment, if you're up for it. Perhaps you've already done it, or it may be academic, who knows...

Whenever I hand wash my car, touching the door handles with 1) my hands, 2) a washcloth, 3) my somewhat overhanging tummy, or even 4) a stream of water! causes a constant locking and unlocking of the doors! Maybe the bristles of the brushes are hitting the number pad on the door and putting in some magic code to select driver position #x on the seat memory system...

My wife demo'ed the car to her friends just before this happened. When I got home, the fuel door was open,. I think this was the problem. After 3 cycles, the MIL went off and hasn't come back on. Thank the Ford engineers who put the refuel button on the center console, and curious women...

Well for the first time, I did it. Since purchasing my 2013 Fusion Energi on March 28, 2014, I have religiously plugged it in every day. I work about 16 miles from home, and can't charge at work, so I commute to work on electric, and commute home some on electric and some on hybrid gas/electric, depending on how many trips to meetings I have during the day. But today, I walked out of the house at 5:15 AM to find no plug in the charge port! OH NO! I had forgotten to plug my baby in to charge overnight! I cringed as the ICE started up immediately as I pushed the start button (first time I had EVER heard that!) I growled every time I heard the ICE come on in hybrid mode as I commuted to work. The bright spot is that it did give me a new data point. I had been tracking my commutes to work to compare routes, and this route typically cost me about 31 cents in electricity (3.4 kWh) to get there in the mornings. This morning, I snapped the summary page and entered the data in the spreadsheet (0.3 gallons of gas) and found that it cost me 98 cents to get to work today! So, at least it made me feel better about why I bought a plug in hybrid vehicle. Please forgive me, oh Fusion!

Since I can't search for 3-letter words here on the forum, I can't see whether OBC or DCT codes have been posted, so I'll ask, just like a newbie would: Is there a comprehensive list of Energi specific DTC codes and their text meanings? I have a Service Engine Soon (stead) lamp lit and will try to pull the codes with my OBD reader in the near future. Having all the codes would save a bunch of question and answer. Thanks!