Mike Antonoff

I don't think thats how a tax credit works. When you itemize your deductions, the $7500 will be one of them causing your adjusted gross income to drop by $7500. So if you paid taxes regularly on $100,000 yearly salary, and your only itemized deduction was the Car, you would only have to pay taxes on the adjusted salary of $92,500 ($100,000 - $7500), thus getting back the difference between the taxes you already paid on $100,000, and the taxes that would be owed on the adjusted salary of $92,500, which would probably be about $2500. I'm not an accountant, but please someone correct me if im wrong.

Yeah that happened to me where I had to refresh and all was well afterwards... My bigger problem is that the speed increments it shows when you click on congestion on the map, shows in KM/H instead of MPH. This infuriates me for some reason. I called Sirius but they have no idea what they are talking about, then after getting transferred around a bunch of times, someone told me Sirius sends the signal in MPH and my vehicle must be converting it to KM/H. So next service visit I will have them look into it, but i'm sure they will say its Siruis. EVERYTHING else in the car is Miles and MPH, and even other things in Travel Link show up using miles, but on their traffic reports and speed averages in those stretches, its KM/H. Annoying

Gigi, no plans as of now. I was actually going to home make my own, but hit a few snags with the circuitry. But its just too pricey for my blood. I'm currently still transporting the 120V one I got back and forth to work. I built a little holder for it out of a rubbermaid container with holes in the sides so I can leave it outside charging even if its raining. As for my GO times, it seems it has been having little to no effect on my car being ready to go. My battery has been at 99-100% when i'm ready to leave so not sure how its working, but I wont complain. I've also learned the time it says on the estimated mileage is usually way short for me. I've been getting usually about 23-25 miles out of my battery eventhough the display will show no more than 20 and sometimes as low as 14. So i've learned to not give a crap about what it displays, and just check it at the end to see how well I really did.

Well last night on my actual drive home, i got like 24 miles out of EV which was amazing. Made sure to switch it on and off during traffic and non-traffic portions of the trip. Now i'm afraid to adjust the GO time, because I may see more miles just based on the fact that I got more miles out of EV yesterday. I think im just going to check the battery % once I get in the car and start with that this afternoon.

Thanks, I am using 120 so understand I'll have some power loss. I guess my problem is that after/during the GO time my car does not go back to charging. So i'm leaving work soon and have my GO time at 5pm. I opened MyFordMobile.com and it says as of 2 hours ago I am fully charged and have 18 miles. I hit the update button to bring it current, and it says I have 14 miles, fully charged. I look at my car, and I have no rings glowing outside on the charging port, so it appears it is NOT charging. Why if it uses juice for GO time does it not continue at least TRYING to charge to regain some of the lost juice, instead of telling me it is fully charged still? I'm going to test with no GO time tomorrow to see if it just has to do with that, or if for some reason by battery is draining after charging and not maintaining that charge.

Actually it does seem without that sensing it won't charge on the current chargers. But doing a little more research on the home made, i can find the board that has the controls to send the details through the sensor wire to the car. Simple circuit with a couple relays. Thanks for the fore-warning.

I understand what you are saying. I'm curious as to what the default is of the car then? If a charger was defective and caused communication issues, the car would either A not charge at all, or B go to a default amperage setting. The handle is rated up to 20 amps and I can run a line being able to handle 20 amps to prevent wire melting, but i'm curious as to what the vehicle would default the charge rate to without the handle communication? Hmmm

The J1772 is actually pretty cheap! But lets go over some other things you said, mainly the built in communications. You said the car communicates with charger to determine what amps/voltage to supply. But the actual regulating of the amps/voltage into the battery is happening where? If it is in the car, then that doesn't matter if the car is getting those details from the charger. The car would do with the incoming voltage whatever it needs to. So for example, what is the difference in the charger of the 120V and the 240V? I do not have the 240V, but electrically, the only difference would be the L1 and L2 prongs are both powered, and the car handles that accordingly. Now if you are telling me the external charger is what tells the car how to handle the incoming voltage/amperage, then its an issue. None of the info on any of the chargers say they have any type of regulator in them though. What I really need to get my hands on is a broken charger to open it up and see what is actually happening. And Blars, that click you hear is most likely just a relay.

So, I wanted a spare charger for my vehicle and found them to be stupidly expensive. I did some research on them, and it appears the charging apparatus itself does nothing except give status lights. It does not contain a transformer or a regulator, those things must be located internally in the engine and are not reliant on the charger itself. So, as someone who deals with electric circuits at work, I want to create my own cord. I am thinking of getting the same handle Ford uses and wiring directly to AC power. What would be the reason this would not work? Anyone tried this or know of something I am missing about the Ford supplied charger besides status lights? The Ford charger there is not much information on, but the Leviton charger I was able to get information for. The only features I would not have are the following: "Built In Communication verifies proper connections before charging can begin" - which is fancy for ensure circuit is complete "Auto-Restart" feature that enables charging to restart after a minor fault - This one confuses me because I do not know why it would stop charging after a minor fault, something internal to the engine? To me neither of these are worth the extra $500 I would be paying to get their charger. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.

My commute is also 35 miles and I charge at home and at work. I did some calculations for myself and maybe they will help. First though, be careful about what you think you are paying for electricity, there is a price per KWH, but also usually a delivery price per KWH also that can vary. I went through my bill and basically calculated about .19 per kwh for me, but more than most expect. (i'm in New York). Anyway heres what I calculated, I charge at home and at work, work I will not pay for it though. I used 20 miles per charge (though i'm seeing now that it may not always be that much) 260 days (5 workdays * 52 weeks) of charging = 1976 kW (based on 7.6 kW per day) which = $375 a year for me charging at home that gets me 5200 miles (260 days * 20 miles), now my charging at work will be free, so i'll double that for 10,400 miles My commute with no electricity I assumed i'd get 40 MPG, so 10,400 miles would require 260 Gallons of gas on the year, at $4 per gallon, thats $1040. So $1040 I would be spending on gas - $375 I am instead paying in electricity = Savings of $665 per year Thats just me, obviously if I couldn't charge at work for free, I'd have to cut the total gas saved in half which then would only give me a small savings of about $145 a year on gas. But its something. Sorry if you already figured this out, I realized I only read page 1, and who knows what could have happened by page 2, you might have already done all these calculations, haha. Oh well.

I had a question about this maybe you guys can help. I am noticing through the MyFordMobile app that when its done charging it will say 19mi available, which is fine I understand that depends on many factors. But if I then check again maybe 2 hours later, while it is still plugged in and the car hasn't moved, it has dropped to like 16, and this morning it was at 13. Now I did just set a GO Time for the morning when charging at home, but this morning the car did not seem to be at the set temperature anyway. When i first opened the MyFordMobile app it said fully charged and 19mi from 2 hours earlier, i updated it and it then it still said fully charged and the mileage changed to 13. Temp outside last night/this morning was probably in the 30s but nothing crazy. Any thoughts? I'm going to double check the charge % as opposed to the mileage estimate to make sure i'm not losing charge while its still plugged in.