murphy

If it really is a 30 amp cord it would work fine. It would have to be at least 10 gauge wire and maybe 8 gauge wire depending on how long it is.

The Owner's Manual says to not use an extension cord. However I think an extension cord made of 10 gauge or maybe 12 gauge wire depending on the length would work okay. A 100 foot 10 gauge extension cord at Lowe's costs $137.00. Note that most extension cords that you will find for sale are 18 gauge or 16 gauge wire and are not suitable for handling the current required for the charger.

It's a lot more than an application. Two salesmen and two technicians have to be trained to sell and service the car and two charging stations have to be installed at the dealership. My old dealer put off getting certified and lost the sale on my car.

I've used about 3 gallons since April.

It takes 2 hours with the 240 volt system versus 7 hours with the 120 volt system. Just based on heat loss the 240 volt system is more efficient.

I had TSB 13-5-1 applied while it was still a valid TSB. It had no effect on the problem. I did not expect it to. The problem is not a charging problem. The problem is a 12 volt battery that is way too small for the demands the car puts on it when the car is not driven on a daily basis.

The Energi does not have an alternator. The 12 volt battery is charged by a DC to DC converter running off of the HVB when the car is in run mode. I have used about 3 gallons of gasoline since April. The overwhelming majority of my driving is electric only. The car sometimes sits for several days without being used and not connected to the charger. I have not had a failure to start but I see very low voltages from the battery when the car is turned on.

My car was built April 1 (April Fools Day). I have never heard the fans when the car was turned off unless it was connected to the 240 volt charger and actively charging the battery. I have never heard the fans while driving the car. The active noise cancellation should mask that sound. I always use air conditioning so there is plenty of cool air available for the HVB.

If you don't like the lights on the charge ring they can be turned off.

Here is the description of the LEDs in the cup holders. http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/1049-ambient-lighting-in-console-cup-holders/?do=findComment&comment=5144 The radio is connected to the same place that the LEDs are connected. The radio is in the trunk bolted to the cover that is over the HVB. Four plastic "christmas tree" pins hold it in place so it comes out easily. The control head is attached to the bottom of the console stack with 3M heavy duty dual lock superlock fasteners. The rear seat cushion has two levers that release the front of the cushion. Then push toward the rear and lift up to remove the cushion. This is the first car I have owned that I didn't have a lot of trouble running cables from the trunk to the front of the car.

The 12 volt battery is charged by a DC to DC converter running from the HVB. It is charged anytime the car is in run mode and when AC from the wall charger is used to charge the HVB. Connecting directly to the battery posts may cause a problem. There is a shunt in series with the positive post that I think the car uses to monitor current flow into and out of the battery. I originally had my TR-741A connected that way but it now connects to the circuit that feeds the three power ports. That has the advantage that when the car shuts off the power is removed from the radio. I had the sides removed from the console to install LED lighting in the cup holders so it was an easy connection.

They don't need a "little" 12 volt battery. They need a "big" 12 volt battery. The accessories run on 12 volts. Imagine what a 300 volt headlight would cost and how dangerous it would make it to work on the car. There is a significant load on the 12 volt battery at times while the car is turned off. The data radio, that communicates with Ford, is always on. I have measured an over 10 ampere spike (10 amps is the max for my meter) when requesting a status update via myfordmobile. Doing a global window open has 5 motors running at the same time. My battery is on the weak side but hasn't completely failed on me so far. I have seen it as low as 11.1 volts when turning the car on which is way lower than it should ever be at. I put a much larger battery in for a while but that was difficult to lock into place since it was too long for the battery tray. It worked a lot better but it too started dropping in voltage if the car was not used for several days. I didn't leave it in long because it was a "starter" battery which can be permanently damaged if allowed to be discharged. The car needs a really "big" deep discharge battery IMHO.

"auto off" is forced to on every time the car is started.

When the HVB is fully charged it then charges the 12 volt battery.

EV Later is almost hybrid mode. It reserves a major (92% to 95%) portion of the HVB to be used later. It uses the ICE but does not have the hybrid battery display so you can't tell what the hybrid battery SOC is. If the HVB is used until it is depleted then the car switches to hybrid mode and the battery display shows the SOC for the hybrid battery. There is only one battery. The "hybrid battery" is a portion of the HVB that is reserved for hybrid operation. When the the HVB is used to depletion and the switch is made to hybrid mode the hybrid battery SOC is 100%.

The distance to empty prediction is based on how the car has been driven in the past. If there are multiple drivers it can be less accurate. It's nothing more than a sophisticated guess.

The portable jumper will work fine once you get the trunk open to get it out if that is where it is.

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Recovering from a dead 12 volt battery requires some planning ahead of time. The metal key stored inside of the Intelligent Access key will unlock the driver's door. I recommend that you practice using it before it's the only way into the car. Where are your jumper cables? If they are in the trunk they won't be accessible unless you install a rope that is tied to the trunk release handle in the trunk and fed through the slot behind the rear seat back. Just fold down the back seat, pull the rope and the trunk is open. Standard jumper cables are not needed since there is no starter motor. I made a set using 15 feet of 12 gauge stranded wire with red and black insulation and two sets of small red / black clips from Lowe's. This is coiled and stored on the upper shelf in the trunk where it is easily reached with the back seat rest lowered (in case you don't want to install the rope). Learn where the jumper terminals are under the hood since it is much safer to jump start the car there than connecting directly to the battery. According to "Murphy's Law" if you do this planning your battery will never fail. ;)

Read this thread on how to activate Engineering Test Mode. http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/6749-engineering-test-mode/?hl=%2Bengineering+%2Btest+%2Bmode Go to the screen that has FLPM on it. Take the number and move the decimal point one place to the left (i.e. divide by 10). That is the percentage of fuel in the tank. For the example in the thread, which is 488.79, that is 48.879%. 48.879% of 14 gallons is 0.48879 times 14 = 6.84 gallons. I'm not sure how useful that is because if you run the fuel gauge below empty you risk destroying the fuel pump since it uses the fact that it is covered by fuel for cooling.

Here is a graph of wall power during charging of my car. http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/740-graph-of-charging-a-completely-depleted-battery/?do=findComment&comment=3098

The charger is in the car. The external box should not have been called a charger. It delivers either 120 volts AC or 240 volts AC to the car. It is nothing more than a sophisticated relay that the charger in the car can control to turn the power on and off. There is a specification for a different style plug that would deliver high voltage DC to the car for faster charging. It has not been implemented so far in Ford vehicles.

MyFord® Mobile FAQs Q: What is the initial subscription cost for the application? A: The MyFord Mobile application is included with in your vehicle purchase for a period of 5 years from the date of vehicle sale. Q: What is the ongoing cost beyond the initial 5 year subscription included in the vehicle purchase price? A: Ongoing costs for the MyFord Mobile application have not been determined at this time.

No, A4 is the latest data card.

When you select EV later they reserve something like 92% of the battery. Watch the left screen and it will tell you how much was reserved. If you park the car and again start up in EV later they again reserve 92% of whatever is left in the battery. IT appears that if this is done enough times the HVB will be depleted.