murphy

No. In neutral there is no connection between the power plant and the wheels.

That is how I interpret the specs for the meter. The 7.2 factor is the most common factor for mechanical spinning wheel meters.

Have you found any documentation for the meter online?

I am unable to view those attachments. I get the following: Sorry, you don't have permission for that! [#10171] You do not have permission to view this attachment.

Can you explain that statement. The power required to charge my battery, when fully depleted, ranges from 6.32 kWh to 7.12 kWH. The difference probably depends on the SOC of the hybrid battery and the 12 volt battery when the "big" battery is depleted.

My MyFordMobile log has an entry for yesterday that used 0 EV and 0 gasoline but went 3.1 miles. The mileage is correct and the trip was EV only.

It shouldn't hurt anything but it is consuming power. Why don't you install a switch to turn off the power to the outlet.

I finally got a time. The ports shut down 78 minutes and 18 seconds after opening the door.

I have used about 4 gallons of gasoline since April. Tracking MPG would be meaningless. I'm sure if I switched the screen to MPG it would say 999.9 MPG which is clearly impossible. If the HVB was never charged, then MPG would be valid. If two sources of energy are being fed to the car they both have to be accounted for in the mileage calculation. Only MPGe does that.

That sounds about right for the dash. I'm talking about the 12 volt power ports. I have a voltmeter in the front one and the LEDs I installed in the cup holders and a two-way radio hard wired to the one in the console. With the little battery the voltmeter, the radio, and the LEDs would turn off the instant I opened the door. With the big battery they stay powered for somewhere between 75 and 90 minutes.

I would let it do its thing. That's an interesting device but what happens when the car turns off the power ports? What happens if the car desides to send status to the web site? I have measured the initial surge in that case at over 10 amps. 10 amps are not possible from the normal 9 volt battery. I think the window settings are buggy in Fords design. Mine are always wrong. I never once had a problem in the 4 years I owned the 2010 Hybrid.

It is not a function of Sync. However when the battery was disconnected all kinds of parameters were reset to zero including all of the engine tuning parameters. The car has to relearn all of its operating parameters. The fuel mileage will stabilize once the average stops changing drastically with each new calculation.

Here is an update on the "big" 12 volt battery. The 12 volt battery was fully charged when installed into the car. Two days later, with the car not being driven, the 12 volt battery was at 60% SOC. I made two 3 mile trips with a 1/2 hour stop in between. That brought the 12 volt battery up to 90% SOC. The power ports do not turn off immediately when the door is opened. They stay on for between 75 and 90 minutes before they shut off. That never happened with the small battery.

The gasoline only combined city/highway rating for the car is 43 MPG. The electricity + gasoline combined city / highway rating for the car is 100 MPGe. MPG and MPGe are different metrics. MPGe involves assigning 33.7 kWh to a gallon of gasoline to compute the MPGe. Whether or not electric operation is cheaper depends on the cost of gas and electricity where you live.

That is caused by the capacitive touch switches in the console stack below the screen. Hold your hand and arm so that it is perpendicular to the screen. If your arm is close to being parallel to the screen with your wrist bent to allow your fingers to touch the screen it is easy to accidentally activate the touch switches.

If you drive the car every day you will probably not have a problem. I am retired and can go as long as a week without driving the car. The capacity of the 12 volt battery is too low to support the car's electronics for a week without going into battery preservation mode which means that everything that can be turned off is turned off. One problem that this appears to cause is the windows lose the ability for automatic operation. i.e. a global window open does not open all of the windows. The technicians working at car dealers have little more than a high school education plus specialized training in specific areas. If they had a college degree they wouldn't be technicians at a car dealership. What we need in this forum are Ford design engineers but they are probably prohibited from posting about Ford products. I can't speak for anyone else on here but I have a degree in Electrical Engineering and know far more about electronics than anyone you will find at a car dealership. Ford has not, to my knowledge, made any public statements about the problem. It is not a new problem. My 2010 Fusion Hybrid had a 12 volt battery that was also way too small for the type of driving that I do. The 12 volt battery is being charged when the car is in Run mode so limiting EV mode would have no effect. The first symptom of the problem is if you get in the car but do not put it in Run mode or Accessory mode and push the On/Off switch for the radio. The radio will come on and a short time later a progress bar will appear in the display saying the car is entering battery preservation mode to protect the battery. When the bar reaches 100% the car shuts down and the switch will no longer turn the radio on.

The cost of electricity or gasoline does not matter in MPG or MPGe calculations. What you are missing is the fact that one gallon of gasolins contains a fixed amount of energy. I think the number Ford uses is 33.7kWh per gallon of gasoline. There is disagreement on this number. I have seen it given as high as 34.02 kWh / gallon. That may be due to the difference between pure gasoline and the stuff we have now with alcohol in it.

Here are the specs for the Bosch BXT-96R-590 battery. Bosch Premium Performance Battery Group Size 96R Part # 96R590B SKU: 9929951 Group Size 96R BCI # 96R Voltage 12 Wet or Dry Wet Terminal Type T Right Or Left Hand Positive Right Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) @ 0F 590 Cranking Amps @ 32F 710 Reserve Capacity (minutes) 95 Height (in.) 6.93 Height (mm) 176.0 Width (in.) 6.93 Width (mm) 176.0 Length (in.) 9.49 Length (mm) 241.0 Weight (lbs) 33.0 Reserve Capacity is defined as the number of minutes the battery will last with a 25 amp load.

Go into the setup page on the left screen and set the units to fuel+electric.

A resistor capable of putting a 45 amp load on a battery is way beyond anything to which I have access.

Your math is wrong. A 45 amp load at 12 volts would require a 0.26667 ohm resistor rated at 540 watts. I have a battery load tester that applies a 100 amp load for 10 seconds. To pass the battery voltage must remain above 11 volts for the entire 10 seconds. I don't know how close to 100 amps it is since I have no way to measure 100 amps. It uses a coil of wire that gets red hot in 10 seconds. Going much longer than 10 seconds would probably destroy the tester. This is it: http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7612-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B0009XQUJI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1378146853&sr=8-4&keywords=battery+load+tester Somewhere on either this forum or the Hybrid forum I posted a decay plot with a 15 ohm 10 watt load. If I can find it I'll add a link to this post. I found it. http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/1190-bxt-99r-390-battery-discharge-plot/?do=findComment&comment=6268

If you try to replicate what I did, don't blame me if it doesn't work for you. You assume all responsibility for the modification to your car. I just did it for the second time today. This time I got a better fit. I had a Bosch BXT-96R-590 battery that I bought in January before I knew the car existed. It must be an "R" battery so the positive post is at the front of the car. I did it "hot" with another battery connected to the terminals under the hood. It is absolutely essential to completely insulate the positive battery cable, once it is removed from the old battery, to prevent it from touching any metal. If you are not comfortable working "hot" don't do it hot. Some functions of the car will have to be reprogrammed and the computer will have to relearn the ICE operating parameters if not done hot. Empty out the trunk so nothing is in your way. Remove the floor covering. There are two plastic pins in the plastic piece that runs across the back edge of the trunk. Pop both of them out. Pull straight up on the plastic piece and note the spring clips that hold it in place. Put it aside. Unscrew the plastic knob at the left bottom of the trunk. I assume it is the lower attachment for a cargo net. Unscrew the plastic piece at the upper left. It may be a cargo net knob or it it may be a simple piece of plastic. Remove the battery door. Find and remove the plastic pin that secures the battery area fiber panel to the upper left side of the trunk. Push forward on the fiber to lift it off the two bolts that the plastic knobs were on. Fold the fiber section toward the front of the car to reveal the battery. Remove the bolt that secures the battery wedge in place. All bolts and nuts in this area are metric sizes. Unplug the vent tube from the battery. Loosen the negative battery cable and remove it from the battery post. Lay it on the floor of the trunk. In the following step be absolutely certain that the wrench does not touch any metal parts of the car. Loosen the positive battery cable and remove it from the battery post. If you are working hot, insulate the battery cable so no part of the connector is visible. I wrapped it with copious amounts of cloth. Remove the nut that secures the two ends of the battery strap together and separate them. Lift the battery out of the car. Move the vent plug from the front of the old battery to the front of the new battery. The battery tray is held by three bolts. I removed the battery tray from the car and cut the rear end out of it. Two short vertical cuts and one long horizontal cut. The new battery now fits snugly into the tray. Test the fit before putting the tray back into the car. Bolt the modified tray into the car and install the battery. Connect the positive battery cable to the battery. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery. If working hot, disconnect the auxiliary battery. It is not possible to use the bolted wedge clamp to hold the battery. The strap that bolts together around the battery fits fine. Plug the existing vent tube into the rear vent of the new battery. Put the fiber wall and the plastic trim back in place. If this sounds complicated get help or don't try it.

This table lists the sizes of most of the BCI Group codes. http://www.batteryweb.com/bci.cfm

I have confirmed that the BXT-99R-390 battery is NOT an AGM battery. Sorry if I misled anyone with my misguided belief that the BXT-99R-390 was an AGM battery. I pulled the battery out of my car and shook it. I could hear the electrolyte sloshing around inside. I hooked it up to my 12 volt battery charger. The initial reading was 56% SOC. After a minute or so it jumped to 66% and then continued to climb in 1% increments. The car was charged with the 240 volt charger yesterday evening. So in about 12 hours it dropped to around 60% SOC with the car sitting idle in the garage. I decided to put a Bosch BXT-96R-590 in the car. This battery was purchased new in January. That required removing the battery tray and cutting the rear end out of the tray so the battery would slide down into the tray. That job is complete. The first thing I noticed was that the power ports did not turn off as soon as I opened the car door. They have always turned off immediately on opening the door with the little battery. The second thing I noticed was the voltage did not go to 14.4 volts when the car was put in run mode. The big battery will stay for a while but I would like to eventually replace it with an AGM battery. It will be easier to find one now that I have room for a 96R size battery. It's very disappointing that Ford chose to stick a small starter battery in the car instead of an AGM battery. They must not have let the car sit for several days during their testing. See post #5 in this thread for instructions to change the 12 volt battery.

I may be wrong. It may be a regular battery. I won't know until I get enough time to pull the battery again and shake it Silly me for assuming that Ford did the right thing and put in an AGM battery.