murphy

Which mode is the car in? Auto EV Now EV Later I drive exclusively in EV Now and have not encountered the engine starting. There are two situations that will force the engine to run. Gas in the tank that is older than 18 months. The engine runs to get rid of the gas and force the tank to be refilled with new gas. Oil maintenance mode. Both are covered in the manual. Battery efficiency drops when the temperature goes below 70° F. If the heater is on the engine can run to get a source of heat in addition to the 5000 ohm resistance heater. Hard acceleration will also force the engine to start.

My process is: Attach seat belt but keep the shoulder loop out in front of me so it can take up slack when the seat moves. Put foot on brake. Push and release the Start button and wait until the seat stops moving. Let go of the shoulder seat belt loop. The seat should only move in P. If the seat were to move while driving it could cause an accident. I have not tested this but I hope that is the way it works.

Use EV Later on the highway above 55 mph. The air drag forces on the car increase with the square of the speed. You won't get anywhere near the indicated range at 75 mph in EV Only mode. You can't program the capacity to charge the battery to, at least not on my 2013. An indicated 100% is not 100% of the battery, it's more like 95%. If you don't charge to 100% you will never charge the 12 volt battery from wall power. That happens after the car reports that charging is complete.

I do not remember where I got the information, it's burned into my brain. Go to your MyFordMobile account and see how much was added to the battery. Assuming the Chargepoint charger is at 240 volts AC, only about 80% of what you paid for got to the battery because of AC to DC conversion losses. The most I have ever measured, at the wall, going into my 7.6 kWh battery is 6.5 kWh. 80% of that is 5.2 kWh. What is the ambient temperature? A cold soaked battery is less efficient. Cold is not what you think it is. The efficiency starts dropping when it gets below 70° F.

The 1.5 kW hybrid portion is only in use when the car is in hybrid mode. It's designed to be at the 50% point so there is someplace to store energy recovered by regenerative braking.

It's a dangerous thing to do. You don't want to get across over 300 volts DC because it will be the last thing you do. High voltage DC causes your muscles to lock and you won't be able to let go. If the junkyard battery hasn't retained its 0.5 kWh protection charge it will be worthless. It is very difficult to resurrect a totally discharged Li-Ion battery.

P0B37 High Voltage Service Disconnect Open P0A0A High Voltage System Interlock Circuit P0B37 may have been caused when you pulled the disconnect. Make sure it is fully reinserted and see if you can clear the code. I can't find any reference to "High voltage system interlock" in the wiring schematic for the car. https://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-chart Read this document. https://www.nfpa.org/-/media/Files/Training/AFV/Emergency-Response-Guides/Ford/Ford-Fusion-PHEV-and-HEV-2013-2018-ERG.ashx?la=en P0A0A may also be caused by pulling the service disconnect.

The battery breakdown is as follows: Battery protection 0.5 kWh Hybrid mode 1.5 kWh Electric only mode 5.6 kWh Total 7.6 kWh The battery protection part is never available for use. Also it is believed that when charged to an indicated 100% the actual battery charge is around 95%.

11.7 volts means the 12 volt battery is not being charged. When you open the door and get into the car you will hear contactors clicking. That is the HVB being connected to the car. The HVB drives a DC to DC converter that converts the HVB voltage, which is around 350 volts, to the correct voltage to charge the 12 volt battery. According to a battery chart that I have 11.9 volts is considered to be a discharged battery. Either the contactors are not pulling in to connect the HVB to the car or there is a problem with the DC to DC converter. If it isn't working that could explain the errors since most of the electronics in the car run on 12 volts. It's worth a shot to pull and reinsert the HVB disconnect. It is located behind the passenger side rear seat back. Fold down the seat back to get to it. It is not dangerous to do this in spite of the fact that you are disconnecting and reconnecting a high voltage. The car should be off when you do this.

I don't know what that is. Ford codes are usually the letter P followed by a 4 digit number. Do you have a voltmeter? If you do, verify that the HVB is charging the 12 volt battery when the car is on. The voltage on the battery terminals should be at least 13.8 volts if the battery is being charged.

Energi Engineering Test Mode Hold the left OK button and start the car. Watch the upper left corner of the left display for the letters ET to appear in yellow. After the letters appear release the OK button. Use the down arrow to scroll through the screens. Press and hold the OK button or shut the car off to exit engineering test mode. MFT Engineering Test Mode Press and hold the Eject button and the >>| button.

Where are you located? I'm in PA and my range drops to 10 miles when it is below freezing. The heater is a 5 kilowatt resistance heater. Running it full blast for an hour would drain the battery without the car moving at all.

You already had it disconnected while you were getting the new battery. A minute is probably long enough. Will the engine start if you put it in EV Later and floor the accelerator pedal in Park. Any chance you have an OBD reader and could check for codes? Do you know how to put the car in Engineering mode and display codes?

Disconnecting the 12 volt battery resets the car. It will take up to 25 miles of driving for the engine to relearn its operating parameters. The HVB can't be fully discharged, the car will protect it. If you plug the car in does it begin charging the HVB? Basic question: Are you depressing the brake pedal before pushing the start button? That is required. A dead 12 volt battery should not cause any other problems.

35 degrees is 3 degrees above freezing. When my battery gets cold soaked below freezing my range is cut in half. Using the heater, which is a 5 kW resistance heater, also reduces range. Short trips will provide less range than one continuous drive, especially if the heater is on.

Battery efficiency drops as the ambient temperature drops below 70° F. The only way to mitigate that is to keep the car in a garage heated to at least 70° so it isn't cold soaked when you leave. When the temperature where I live gets below freezing my range drops to 10 miles. I drive in battery mode most of the time. I put a couple of gallons of gas in the car once a year.

It's worth a try but you will need a Ford dealer with the appropriate computer software to do it.

I don't know but I doubt it.

I assume the engine oil pump is inside of the engine and directly driven by the engine.

Yes, in EV Only the engine is not running and can't provide lubrication. Lubrication is provided by an electric driven oil pump. If the electric driven oil pump has failed you are risking the transmission. My engine hasn't run for months at a time when it is warm outside. The Hybrid does not have this pump because the engine is only off for about a mile before the small battery needs to be recharged.

Yes you need to replace it. I think that is the one that provides lubrication for the transmission in EV Only mode. Do not drive in EV Only at high speed with that pump not working. Your English is better than a lot of native English speakers.

There is a supercharger 4 miles from my brother's house. There is another one under construction 16 miles north of his house. Charging is a not an issue. Model 3 owners have to pay for charging. Early model S and X owners do not have to pay.

My brother is 265 miles away. I've made the trip twice in the FFE and about 25 times in a Tesla. There are now 8 supercharger locations on the route and a few more under construction. I only stop once about half way. My car has lifetime free supercharging although I actually paid up front in the price of the car. The rated range of my car is 288 miles but I would never go that far just like I wouldn't drive a gas car until the tank was empty.

It's 38° F here right now and we are only half way through fall. It was 20° when I got up this morning.

It's a mathematical calculation. Battery temperature is a big factor. Are you currently at an ambient temperature that doesn't require heat or air conditioning? Both of those put a dent in range.