murphy

They are definitely different. I have used an XM radio and a Sirius radio on the same route that has tall trees that block the view to the sky. The XM radio worked fine with no dropouts. The Sirius radio (2010 Fusion Hybrid and 2013 Fusion Energi) had lots of dropouts. I no longer have an active satellite radio subscription in my car.

My experience, with my Ford dealer, is that they don't want anyone charging whether the car was bought there or not. The charger is only there because Ford required them to install it so they could get their electric certification. It's a moot point for me since I use half of the battery getting back home and don't normally go to the area where they are located.

6-3 Indoor Non-Metallic Jacket Wire (By-the-Foot) http://www.lowes.com/pd_70166-295-63950045_4294722493__?productId=50101582&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1%26page%3D3&facetInfo= Note: 6-3 wire has 4 conductors, black and red for the hot conductors, white for the neutral, and bare for the earth ground. The U shaped pin on the outlet is the earth ground, the pin opposite the earth ground is the neutral, the other two are the hot connections. Either one of the hot connections can be black or red.

If you use a receptacle that is rated for 50 amps it means that a 50 amp appliance COULD be plugged into it. That means the wire must be sized for 50 amps. That requires that at least 6 gauge wire be used. The largest breaker that can be used with 6 gauge wire is 50 amps. It is okay to use a smaller breaker because it will still protect the wire, The breaker is there to protect the wire from getting too hot. Breaker selection has absolutely nothing to do with what might be connected to the circuit. So far the request for the size of the wire feeding the sub-panel has not been answered. If you put a 50 amp circuit in that sub-panel the wire gauge all of the wire back to the main panel must be sized to properly feed the panel.

You need 6 gauge wire and a 50 amp circuit breaker to go with a 14-50 outlet. The 50 part of 14-50 says that it is a 50 amp receptacle. A continuous draw is required to be at 80% of the breaker rating which for a 50 amp breaker is 40 amps. I only see space in that panel for a single breaker on each side. You need a 50 amp breaker that looks exactly like the existing 40 amp breaker. You need to move the lower left pair of breakers to the right side so you will have room for the 50 amp breaker. What size wire is feeding the sub-panel? I'm guessing that it is not big enough to add that size of a load to the sub-panel. At a minimum it would have to be 6 gauge and probably needs to be 2 gauge. You need an electrician to evaluate the whole system (main panel and sub-panel) and modify it as necessary. Over heated wires in the walls is what causes electrical fires.

It's called active noise cancellation. It uses three microphones in the cabin, it's always on, and it is not adjustable. http://corporate.ford.com/news-center/press-releases-detail/pr-2013-ford-fusion-hybrid2658-active-37160

I have the A5 card, which cost me about $50 on eBay, and the map is no improvement. My house was built in 1957 and both the A4 and A5 maps do not know where it is. I went to their website to enter a correction and the map on their website was correct. They are selling old maps, that they know are not up to date, at ridiculuos prices.

That may not be true. All of the dealers around here dropped out of the Owner Advantage Rewards program. When it was still in existence points earned at one dealer could only be used at that dealer. My first dealer warned me that they were dropping out of the program and I was able to use the points. My second dealer (the first one failed to get electric certified) did not warn me and I lost the points.

It won't hurt anything. It will use a small amount of electricity, about 1 watt.

The airbag problem is most severe in high humidity areas. The repairs will be done there (Florida, Puerto Rico, US Virgin Islands etc) first. It's probably not a problem at all in AZ. The power train problem is to meet emission requirements, it's nothing to worry about. The restraints controller problem is the 850,000 car recall. The recall notices will go out after they manufacture enough parts to do the recall.

My 2013 Energi has flip covers on all three 12 volt outlets and on the 110 volt AC outlet.

I have never seen another one so if it exists it's hidden really well. I've had the cover off of the big battery several times and didn't see one there. If you try that watch the "christmas tree" retainers. One got away from me and fell down beside the battery. That was tough to recover. The circuit diagrams only show one port.

The mirror is manually foldable. It should move back into position with very little effort. Do you live in a no-fault state?

There are over 28,000 files on the card. I have no way to match that many files. My only guide is that my house was built in 1957 and both cards place my house at a totally incorrect location. If I go to here.com and search for my house it puts it in the correct location. The map on the cards does not contain their latest map data.

Pop the card out of the SD slot in the center console. If it's an A4 it will have a big A4 on it. I got my A5 from eBay for $50.

I just received a letter in a plain envelope with a return address of a post office box in Orem, Utah. Inside was a letter on a Ford letterhead that started out: HANDS on the wheel. EYES on the road. IT'S ALL on the line. We want to help you drive safely. It's an advertisement for a new map for my navigation system for only $149 with free shipping if I order by December 31, 2014. There is a link in the letter that goes to a pdf file that shows how to determine your current map status. I went to the link and found they are selling the A5 navigation card that I bought several months ago for $50. It contains the same map as the A4 card. I have no idea if there are new POIs because I never use them. Pay particular attention to POI counts on the back of the letter. The count went down for every category except for ATMs and Convenience Stores. So for the most part they are removing POIs and charging $149 to do it. My Garmin provides map updates several times a year for FREE and it cost far less than the navigation system in the car did.

I use L all of the time driving in EV Now mode. The only time the ICE spins is if the HVB is fully charged. Since I am driving on the HVB it is never fully charged so the ICE never spins.

If you use your left hand to open a driver side door or your right hand to open a passenger side door make sure that your thumb doesn't land on the door lock sensor.

That is going to require a really big charger with huge cables to handle 100 amps or more.

I have no inside knowledge but my impression is it increases the regeneration which causes the car to slow down more quickly. The bad part of that is that the brake lights are not turned on so the car behind you may not immediately realize that you are slowing. This is the way a Tesla works except if the deceleration is above a set point, determined by speed, the brake lights are turned on. There is no regeneration attached to the brake pedal in a Tesla.

I drove my car home exactly two weeks after the build date and I am north of Philadelphia, PA. Unless they are short of railcars or enough vehicles to fill a railcar I can't see the trip taking much more than a week to Michigan.

Testing

Yes, that is it's only purpose.

You can use it to unlock the driver's door and the glove box.

I just checked my charger. The only exposed metal is the three prongs on the 120 volt AC plug. Everything else is plastic. You can see metal inside of the pins on the J1772 connector but they are recessed and are only energized after the car says it is okay. The metal can't be touched unless something conductive is inserted into the connector. The only possibility for a shock would be from static electricity. What was the humidity at the time?