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Everything posted by murphy
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EV+ is usually locations where the car has been charged. I have only ever seen it at home and at my brother's house. The idea is since you are approaching a charging location it doesn't matter if the battery is run all of the way down. It only means anything if the HVB is already empty and you are running on the hybrid portion of the battery. Usually gets you that last 1/2 mile without the ICE coming on.
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Hmmm, battery range at full charge now on 16 miles??
murphy replied to HotLap's topic in Lounge - Fusion Energi
The seat heater has a 20 amp fuse so less than 240 watts. The main heater uses up to 5000 watts. Preheating the cabin with a GO time setting means the main heater only has to maintain the temperature. A preheated cabin, a warm coat without the main heater, and using the seat heater can work. Another approach is to start out in EV later mode so the ICE can warm up the car and not switch to EV Now mode until the car is completely warmed up. -
Can I charge the Energi in Europe on 220V?
murphy replied to kafryn99's topic in Lounge - Fusion Energi
I don't think frequency will matter because the charger in the car is rectifying the AC to DC to charge the battery. I used the previous version of this one until recently. http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=EVB22-3PT§ion=37741&minisite=10251 You could contact Leviton to verify if it works ok at 50 Hz. Their online specifications don't mention frequency. Servicing of the car in Europe may be a problem. In the US a dealer must be certified to service electric vehicles. There may not be any certified dealers in Europe since the car is not sold there. -
Hmmm, battery range at full charge now on 16 miles??
murphy replied to HotLap's topic in Lounge - Fusion Energi
Are you using the heater? That puts a 5 kW load on the battery. If you are try using GO times to preheat the car and then just using the seat heater instead of the main heater. The battery estimate, and that is all that it is, is based on how the car has been driven. If you are doing fast acceleration, that will drop the battery in a hurry. -
Can I charge the Energi in Europe on 220V?
murphy replied to kafryn99's topic in Lounge - Fusion Energi
Not with the charger that comes with the car, that is 120 volts only. You would need a 220 to 120 converter capable of handling 15 amps on the 120 volt side. Better to get a seperate 220 volt charger. That is what I use all of the time in the USA. It would probably be a waste of money to get the navigation package since it is unlikely there is support for Europe for a Fusion but ask the Ford representative , Kim, on this forum. There may be other changes needed to a US car that is in Europe. -
How cold was the HVB? 120 volts times 12 amps is 1.44 kW. 1.44 kW times 4 hours is 5.76 kWh. I'm ignoring charging inefficiency but If the battery was cold that might be all it could take. How stable is your power? If there was one of those momentary power dropouts, where you can tell that the lights blinked, it may have aborted the charge cycle.
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I haven't used "snow" tires since the (M+S) tires were invented. Snow tires have (had) an extremely deep (up to 1") tread, with provisions for installing studs, for clawing through deep snow. What I see being sold as snow tires today are designed for traction on ice with lots of horizontal sipes to provide many gripping edges. The tread depth is the same as the (M+S) tires. If there is a layer of ice on the road I stay home. If a deep snow arrives I can't go anywhere until I clear my driveway. That can't be done until the snowplow clears the street since the snowplow will fill in the end of my driveway with deep hard packed snow. Once the street has been plowed and salted and the driveway cleared there is no need for anything other that all season tires (M+S). I do have the advantage that I am retired and don't have to go anywhere if I don't want to leave the house. YMMV ;)
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Since there is no place to store a spare in an FFE (the blower for the HVB is in the wheel well) it would end up in the back seat. I gave up and bought a can of "fix-a-flat" that states on the label that it won't damage the TPMS sensor in the tire. I also have a jack and a breaker bar to remove the lug nuts. I have a tire plug kit to fix a puncture in the tread. Using the plug kit would be very difficult with the wheel on the car. I have no intention of ever using the junk that came with the car which does not state that it is TPMS safe. A sidewall tear is going to require a tow truck to go buy a new tire. I don't think a full size wheel will fit in the trunk but I haven't tried one to verify. I drove my 2010 hybrid for 4 years and never had the spare on the car. I drove my 2002 Crown Victoria for 7.5 years and never had the spare on the car. I've driven my 2013 Energi for 1.5 years and have not had a flat tire. The car comes with 5 year / 60,000 mile roadside assistance.
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Internal Combustion Engine It burns gasoline and makes the car move when the HVB (High Voltage Battery) is discharged. ;)
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Everything is back to normal although I had to uninstall and reinstall the app on my cell phone to get it to work again.
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There is no unused electricity. When you increase the load on the alternator the force required to turn the alternator increases. At the current fuel flow rate the engine can't provide that force so the engine starts to slow down. That causes the governor to increase the fuel flow to the engine so it can match the required force and return to the required RPM. If you remove a load from the alternator the force required to turn the alternator is reduced. This causes the engine to start to speed up. The governor reduces the fuel flow to the engine so it can match the reduced force and maintain the required RPM. Viewing the engine and alternator as a system when the electrical load is increased the fuel flow increases to provide the required additional energy. Back on topic: electricity can only flow if there is a complete circuit. If regen is generating electricity it has to be in a complete circuit. That normally is to the battery charger to charge the battery. If the battery is full it can't go there. They could have provided a BIG resistor to turn the electricity into heat but I don't think that they did. Instead of generating electricity the ICE is spun up but no gasoline is fed to the cylinders. In effect the ICE becomes an air pump and the force used to turn that air pump is the back pressure that holds the car back from accelerating.
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When EV later is selected 95% of the battery is "locked in" according to the message on the screen. I first observed what happens next on a two stage trip. Half way through the trip I stopped for a break. When I was ready to resume my trip I had to again select EV Later, since it doesn't stay selected. Again it locked in 95% of what was left. As you keep doing this, less and less of the HVB remains. My original intention was to arrive at my destination with a full battery to use there. That didn't happen.
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At 8:30 am this morning I used my cell phone with the MFM app to set a GO time. When I got back home I plugged the car in to charge. I started wondering why I hadn't received at text message to indicate completion of charge, I logged into my MFM account on my computter and was informed there was no car configured in my account. I opened the app on my cell phone and got the same report. I guess this is a result of my having to do a Master Reset to get my back-up camera working (separate thread).
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When I backed out this morning the camera didn't turn on. I was in a hurry so didn't have time to fuss with it. When I was ready to return home it still wasn't working. After I returned home I pushed a lot of buttons but the only one that any effect was the "Master Reset". I really wonder if the people that wrote the Sync code know what a peer review is.
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It provides regen while going down hill without having to use the brake pedal. It usually prevents the car from picking up speed during the descent.
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There is no way to change the bluetooth range. Most people want to increase the range not decrease it. If you are not using bluetooth in the house it should be turned off since it is a significant load on the phone battery. I have a Samsung phone and use TecTiles to easily turn bluetooth on ond off.
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If you drive the car in EV Now until the HVB is totally depleted the car switches to Auto mode, the other two modes are disabled. In this mode the battery display changes to the display that is used in the FFH. It has been my contention that when using EV Later mode the display should change to the Hybrid type display because the EV display is meaningless since it isn't changing unless you are coming down from the top of Pike's Peak. Ford doesn't agree and I was ignored.
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Yes that is normal.There must be room in the battery for regen braking to store the recovered energy or regen braking would not be possible.
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Navigation -- Car's location not accurate
murphy replied to mikenmar's topic in Audio, Navigation & SYNC
I didn't post any photos. The photos were posted by jeff_h. -
Navigation -- Car's location not accurate
murphy replied to mikenmar's topic in Audio, Navigation & SYNC
I just checked my Energi and it is oscillating between those bogus numbers and actual readings. I have 8 satellites in view. When the readings come back the speed indicates 255 before it changes to 0. Speed is probably stored in an 8 bit unsigned variable. -
The only way to charge the HVB other than plugging it in is to drive to the top of a mountain like Pike's Peak. The HVB can be completely charged by regen while coming down the mountain. However more energy will be used to get to the top than will be returned coming down. It's more efficient to move the car using the engine directly than to use the engine to charge the battery and then use the battery to propel the car. There are losses during charging and discharging.
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You can pull the side panel and the trim piece above it off. They are both held by spring clips. The one on the passenger side would be the place to start since if you ever needed to get the shift lever out of park with a dead 12 volt battery that is the one that has to come off. There is not much in there although the RCM that has to be replaced for the 850,000 car recall is aparently in there. Plug it into the wall and put the heat on max to cook the water out. Somewhere on this forum is a picture of where to pull. If I can find it I'll add a link to this post. I didn't find the one I was looking for but this one has some disassembly in a video in the last post that will show how things come apart. http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/1009-how-does-one-disassemble-the-console/?do=findComment&comment=4884
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The 16" mini-spare tire that fits a standard Fusion and the FFH will NOT fit an FFE. I would not expect a 16" rim of any type to fit the FFE. It appears the FFE has larger diameter rotors. I was unsuccessful in getting anyone to measure an FFH rotor so I could compare it to an FFE rotor.
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Navigation -- Car's location not accurate
murphy replied to mikenmar's topic in Audio, Navigation & SYNC
Can you get the latitude and longitude read out from the car's GPS when this happens? They are in one of the diagnostic menus in the center screen. Press and hold Eject and Fast-Forward at the same time until the menu pops up. -
That's the problem. Most people (yes I know that is a sweeping statement) in my experience have no idea that a breaker is used to protect the wire. They wouldn't think twice about putting in a bigger breaker if the existing one kept tripping. Similar to the fuse box era of putting a coin behind a blown fuse to get the power back on and then forgetting about it.