murphy

Replace the AFCI with a high quality standard receptacle. Contactors, in the car and in the EVSE, will arc as part of their normal operation.

I have a lot of trouble syncing with my car because it apparently has trouble getting an AT&T data connection. This may be related to the fact that by 12/31/2016 AT&T will shut down all 2G cell sites which will leave my car unable to communicate unless Ford does something such as installing an updated data radio or switching to T-Mobile which I think will still have 2G support. How's that for a run on sentence?

Re-linking should not require 24 hours. However every time I have been forced to do that I have had to stop the app on my Android phone and then delete the data from the app to get it working again. Alternately you can delete the app and then download it again.

That depends on what you pay for electricity. My electricity comes from solar panels so it costs me nothing.

You are not going to get 21 miles driving on the freeway. That will use the battery in a hurry. To get above 21 miles you need flat roads, no air conditioning, no heat, temperature at 72 degrees F, smooth acceleration. Smooth braking that does not engage the friction brakes until the car is below 5 mph. In the summertime I can easily make a 21 mile round trip on city streets with maximum speed of 45 mph. In the winter time I get about 10 miles.

If you live where it gets cold at night the use of GO times to precondition the car works really well with an L2 EVSE but is not worth much with an L1 EVSE. With an L1 EVSE there is 120 volts x 12 amps = 1440 watts available. With an L2 EVSE there is 240 volts x 16 amps = 3840 watts available. Both of those calculations are ignoring power factor, which I don't have any data on, for EVSEs. However it is a resistance heater in the car so the power factor should be very close to 1.

The hybrid also has EV+. I think the idea is to run on electricity as one approaches home to get the battery charge low. The next day when the car is started the ICE will run to warm up to operating temperature and will charge the battery at the same time. Even though the hybrid can't be plugged in home is still a place where the battery will be charged.

Are the conditions right at that time of the morning for condensation to form on the inside of the glass in front of the camera? I have heard, but don't know for sure, that there is a heater in there to get rid of condensation.

They only mention NiMH batteries. That's what is in a 2010-2012 Fusion hybrid. Starting with 2013 the battery is Li-Ion.

For future reference remote start can only be done twice within a one hour period. After that it is locked out until the timer expires or you manually start the car from the driver's seat.

The car has a lot running when it is off. Alarm system, key fob transceiver, data radio, an unknown number of microprocessors. And if you use the app to check on the car it puts a spike on the 12 volt battery in excess of 10 amps (my measurement limit). The only way to truly turn the car off is to disconnect the 12 volt battery. Don't close the trunk if you do.

You don't get the tax credit when you lease. The leasing company gets the tax credit but most will pass it through as part of the lease calculations.

The Ford reps don't want you to do it but IMHO Ford has totally dropped the ball on this. Telling me to go to my dealer to have it installed is nonsense. They would probably want $100 to do it. As an ex Ford employee I am appalled at the incompetence of their website support. I downloaded the file from the link in this post on the Fusion Hybrid forum http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/10558-version-38-available/?do=findComment&comment=100530 and installed it in my 2013 Fusion Energi. It worked fine and I eventually figured out how to report the install to the Ford Owner website.

Have an electrician check the outlet wiring. Many 15 amp outlets are wired using the wire push-in terminals. That is fine if it only has to serve a table lamp. The charger draws a continuous 12 amps and the wires need to be clamped under the screw heads. If the receptacle has been overheated it should be replaced with a new one.

The last car I was able to siphon gas out of was my 2002 Crown Vic. My next car, a 2010 Fusion Hybrid, had the baffles in place to prevent siphoning. Annoyed me a lot because that is where I used to get the gas for my lawn equipment.

When disconnecting a J-1772 plug, while charging is in progress, push the button and wait for the EVSE and the car to negotiate a shutdown. You should be able to hear the relays drop out. Only then remove the plug from the car. Otherwise the contacts are being pulled apart while current is flowing and that will cause arcing which is not good for the contacts.

I had this problem until I developed the habit of removing the plug with my right hand, transferring the plug to my left hand, and then closing the door with my right hand. If you put the charger away first someone will interrupt you and you will forget to close the door. I agree that it should be latched just like the gas door.

Try this link to my dropbox. https://www.dropbox.com/s/nqeihnnxw04dejt/SYNCStatusChecker.zip?dl=0

3.8 It is only for My Ford Touch.

Somewhere in the Sync section of Ford Owner is a status checker tool that will generate the status upload file to report the car's current status.

The reply that I got was to take the car to my dealer to have the update installed. Sorry but I'm not interested in wasting 4 hours of my life sitting in their waiting room while they figure out how to do it. I downloaded the file that was posted on the hybrid forum, I think, and installed it myself. I did the report upload after the install and Ford Owner now shows my car at 3.8.

I also was told to go to the dealer to have it installed. That would have cost about $100. I did it myself using the posted file. Ford needs to fix their broken web site. They are advertising that all cars will be upgraded yet their broken web site makes it impossible.

In my experience the dealer doesn't know anything about the car and doesn't want to know anything about the car.

Have you been making short trips? Trips less than about 1.5 miles are not recorded. Also if you turn the car off and then immediately turn it back on the trip data can be lost.

I drove my car on electricity for almost a year and never got higher than 22 miles for that metric.