murphy

Your 12 volt battery needs to be replaced. Without 12 volts to pull in the contactors the HVB is disconnected from the car. When a wet cell lead acid battery is completely discharged lead flakes off of the plates and accumulates at the bottom of the cell. That is permanent damage to the battery. Use a real battery charger, not a maintainer, to fully charge the 12 volt battery at high current to see if it will hold a charge. The car will not allow the HVB to be completely discharged. When it shows 0 that is only the electric drive portion. The hybrid portion (1.5 kWh) and the protection portion (0.5 kWh) are still charged.

I stand corrected. I was up there once around 1965.

Someone, who used to be on this forum, charged his battery from empty to full coming down from the top of Pikes Peak. That is an over 14,000 foot drop in elevation.

No. Put the car in EV Later to force Engine use. The HVB does not have to be at 0 to do that.

Neither Low (totally misnamed - it is not a gear change) nor grade assist use the engine if the HVB is not fully charged. Instead it charges the HVB. I drive exclusively in L and use grade assist when going down hill. The charge rate can be modulated with the accelerator pedal. I almost never use the engine for anything. I put about 2 gallons of gas in the car per year. It is my local driving car. Long distance driving is done with a BEV.

Push the accelerator pedal to the floor. The computer will start and run the engine at an RPM that it considers reasonable. There is no connection between the accelerator pedal and the engine. The pedal is actually two three terminal potentiometers that tell the computer what you want. The computer decides what it will tell the engine to do. There is a process in the Owner's Manual to perform if the battery has been disconnected so the engine can relearn its operating parameters. It's in the chapter about replacing the battery.

I live in PA and drive the car less than 5000 miles a year. I am exempt from emission tests. Note that if the 12 volt battery dies or is disconnected the engine loses all of its data and has to learn everything all over again.

Does not happen to me. The ICE should only come on to provide back pressure (braking) if the HVB is full. The point of driving in L is to modulate the go pedal to provide acceleration and deceleration without having to use the brake pedal. Drive in EV Now, not Auto. Do not select allow engine if it asks. The ICE is not really on. Gasoline is not injected into the cylinders. It is acting like an air compressor to provide the back pressure.

My 2013 Energi doesn't have a weather score. There have been reports on many different Fords of the temperature sensor failing due to corrosion of the connections. When they fail they report the temperature as 50° F. Do you have a temperature display that is correct?

I have a 2013 and have never encountered anything like your problem. One other thought. If the contactors that connect the high voltage battery to the car are not pulling in there is no way for the car to move. There would be nothing to turn the electric motors which also means there is no way to start the engine. Turn the heat on. The heater is a 5 kW resistance heater that gets its power from the high voltage battery. If you don't get heat, that is the problem and the only recourse is via a flat bed truck to a dealer. If you do get heat it is probably still going to have to go to a dealer.

That is strange. I wonder if it thinks it is not in Park. Put your foot on the brake and then shift to neutral. Stay in neutral for a few seconds and then shift back to park. Verify that the parking brake is engaged. Red icon on the dash. If that doesn't work do this (Yes I know it sounds crazy). Make sure car is in Park and the parking brake is applied and the car is off. Get out of the car and close the doors. Wait until there are no lights left on inside or outside of the car. Open the door , get in, fasten the seat belt,. Put the fob int compartment inside of the console in the front left corner. Key ring up and the buttons facing the rear of the car. Put your foot on the brake, push and release the start button. Did you get the green icon on the dash. The fob will work in that compartment even if there were no batteries in the fob. If that doesn't work lets do a reset of the car. Disconnect the negative lead of the 12 volt battery. Wait 5 minutes. Put the negative lead back on the battery as fast as you can to minimize any chance of it sparking. Tighten the connection but not too tight. Over tightening can cause the lead to fracture. Does the car work now?

Please don't post the same topic multiple times. The car is started by putting your foot on the brake and then pushing the start button. The green icon should come on in the lower right corner of the dash display.

Does your outside temperature display the temperature correctly? If anything happens to the connection to the sensor it will revert to 50° F.

I have never had it done so I don't have first hand experience. It is my understanding that it can be removed. NASCAR vehicles are all wrapped to put the sponsors advertising on the car. If they don't have the same sponsor every week they have to wrap on a weekly basis.

The car does NOT have an alternator so I would take anything that guy says with a grain of salt. It has a DC to DC (350 VDC to 15 VDC) converter to charge the 12 volt battery. It also does not have a starter motor. The engine is started by one of the two electric motors that propel the car. If the car is driven every day you should not have a problem. If it sits for a week without being driven you need a smart 12 volt battery charger to connect to the terminals under the hood to keep the battery charged. There are a lot of microprocessors in the car that are never turned off. Get a piece of small diameter rope and attach one end to the emergency pull handle in the trunk. Feed the other end up to the cabin behind the right rear fold down seat back. Attach that end to the steel bar that the seat back clamps to when in the upright position. Pull the rope to open the trunk. A wet cell lead acid battery is the wrong battery for the car. It's in there because it is cheaper than an AGM battery and works fine if the car is driven a lot of miles every day. I put an AGM battery in my 2013 about 6 months after I got it. I carry a standard jump box in my trunk. In over 7 years I have not had to use it.

You could solve the paint color "problem" by having the car wrapped.

The HVB can only charge the 12 volt battery when its contactors are pulled in to connect it to the car. Guess what pulls in the contactors. The 12 volt battery is the answer. Tesla does keep the 12 volt battery charged from the HVB. 4 or 5 times a day, when the car is parked, the 12 volt battery gets charged. The result is what is known as vampire drain. People are endlessly complaining that their car lost x number of miles over night. The Energi HVB is too small to do this without causing a huge fuss about lost miles. An AGM battery's voltage stays good to a much lower charge level than a wet cell battery does. It will still pull in the contactors when it is very close to being discharged. A wet cell battery can't do that. The wet cell battery in my backup generator is changed every three years.

I tested the headlights. If the control is set to auto the timeout delay can be set to 0, 10 , 20 etc seconds. If the control is set to on there does not appear to be a timeout. However as soon as I opened the door a chime started to warn that something had been forgotten.

I have replaced my 12 volt battery. Several christmas tree style clips have to be removed. If you break one they are available at Lowe's in the nuts and bolts department. The fiber panel in front of the battery will have to be folded out of the way to get access to the battery. I will have to test the headlights.. The 12 volt power sockets turn off 70 minutes after the car is turned off. I don't drive after dark much anymore so my headlights are very seldom on. Somewhere on this forum is my detailed description of what it took to replace the OEM 12 volt battery with an AGM battery without losing the learned engine parameters. It was a "hot" swap. I am an Electrical Engineer so I knew what I was doing. Things like insulating the + battery lead since it remained hot through out the process.

Attach a small rope to the emergency trunk release handle and feed the other end up behind the right rear fold down seat back. I tied that end to the seat back latch bar so it would stay in place. I don't understand your inaccessible engine compartment statement. Open the driver's door with the key hidden in the back of the fob. Pull the handle to release the hood. If you drive your car every day you won't have a problem with the 12 volt battery. If you drive it once a week, like I do, keep a battery charger handy to keep it charged. There are lots of microprocessors in the car that are never turned off. That is what drains the battery. A Tesla uses the big battery to keep the 12 volt battery charged. It takes longer but you can end up with both batteries dead. I have a jumper pack in the trunk to jump the 12 volt battery if necessary. I also replaced the OEM wet cell lead acid battery with an AGM battery.

" Oh, and just to tease Murphy a bit ?, I'm still rocking the original 12v battery. 7 years old and still going. " 7 years is a long time for any wet cell lead acid battery. I would have it load tested so in the near future you don't get a call from your wife telling you she is stranded. The one in my standby 20 kW generator is replaced every 3 years. I don't want to learn the battery is dead when I need the generator to start because the power company has failed to supply power. I have much lower mileage than you do. I just turned 10,000 miles. The vast majority of it is in EV Now. Driving every day avoids the battery problems that come with driving once a week. I am retired and basically confined to the house since getting Covid-19 would probably kill me because of permanent damage to my heart from a heart attack 28 years ago.

You are in the wrong forum, this is the plug in hybrid (Energi) forum, but I can answer the question. The car tries to keep the battery at 50%. This is necessary for regenerative braking to work. There has to be someplace for the energy created by regenerative braking to go. If the battery was at 100% regenerative braking would not be possible. https://fordfusionhybridforum.com

That symbol is for the 12 volt battery. Have the 12 volt battery load tested. That means put a 100 amp load on it for 10 seconds and watch the voltage drop. If it goes below 11 volts the battery needs to be replaced. Have you ever let the car sit long enough for the 12 volt battery to go dead? If so, that caused internal damage to the 12 volt battery. They did get a batch of defective 12 volt batteries back in 2013. There could be a problem with the DC to DC converter. It converts 300 volts DC to 14 volts DC to charge the 12 volt battery. The car does not have an alternator or a starter motor.

It delivers 400 watts. The battery is 5.6 kWH. 5600 watt hours divided by 400 watts is 14 hours. I guarantee the battery in the jump starter will not deliver 400 watts for 14 hours. The DC to AC to DC conversion losses would make it very inefficient also. Look for public chargers that can charge the car at 240 volts I charge mine at 240 volts and it takes slightly over 2 hours to charge the battery. Search the internet for Chargepoint, Green Lots, or just EV battery charging to see if there is anything close to you.

It is always off when the car is turned on in my 2013. It works at 40 mph and above.