murphy

Maybe Ford will go talk to T-Mobile. The T-Mobile network is compatible with the AT&T network and they are not killing their 2G network at the end of this year.

I hope they are not building 2017 cars with a 2G modem. It should be an LTE modem since 3G is also being replaced although not as soon as 2G.

You can also use GO times to precondition with the air conditioner, unless your garage is air conditioned in which case there would be no point. I've seen the thermometer in my garage get to 120°.

There is no engine power in that situation. No fuel is being injected into the cylinders. The engine is acting as an air compressor to provide back pressure to hold the car back since regen is not possible.

There is a setting that keeps the backup camera on, when going forward, for a short period of time. It's main use is for hooking up to a trailer.

If you want to measure power at 120 volts get one of these. http://www.ekmmetering.com/120-volt-basic-pass-through-kwh-meter-2-wire-50a-60hz-ekm-15ids.html There is also a 240 volt version. I have one of each. Also order the DIN rail mount for it.

They didn't replace the connector that the sensor plugs in to.

It has been reported either on this forum or the Hybrid forum that the problem is with the connector for the sensor. Going from my old memory, the connector is not properly sealed against water and the contacts corrode.

My lot is 3/4 acre. I have an EGO hedge trimmer and two EGO leaf blowers. The first one died so they sent me another one. When I asked where to send the bad one they said to discard it locally. I discarded it in the basement. That's a complete set of spare parts except for the encapsulated control electronics which is what failed.

I assume this is not a riding mower. There is no way that I could do my lawn with a walk behind mower. I did it once with a 19" rotary mower right after I bought the house and immediately bought a rider for the next weeks mowing.

The 14-50 is a 50 amp receptacle that gets derated to 40 amps (80%) for continuous duty. 6/3 wire is required for a 50 amp circuit. That is what Teslas built before the front end refresh use. The refresh model of the Tesla has a 48 amp charger which requires a 60 amp circuit. The Tesla HPWC (High Power Wall Connector) requires a 100 amp circuit to use its full capacity. Future proofing is fine but the future keeps changing. I originally bought a Leviton 16 amp EVSE for my Energi. It uses a 6-20 receptacle. I eventually upgraded to a Leviton 40 amp EVSE that uses a 6-50 receptacle. Run the largest size wire that you can afford. Copper is expensive so the length of the run may be the deciding factor. Instead of installing one circuit, consider adding a 100 amp sub-panel in the garage. Whatever circuit type you need can be wired to the sub-panel. My power panel is at the opposite end of the house from the garage and required a 72 foot run.

When you are going down hill regeneration charges the battery. Watch for the up arrow at the top of the battery icon. If you were at the top of Pikes Peak, with an empty battery, it would be fully charged during the drive to the bottom. Also when in EV later the battery is not used to move the car.

You can enter the time of day that you want charging to start in the car. It's a single entry with no ability to specify day of the week. It doesn't clear out automatically so once entered the car will start charging at that time every day if it is plugged in. There are 3rd party applications that use an api that was reverse engineered from the car. I don't know what their capabilities are. Tesla can change the api at any time.

T-Mobile apparently plans to stay around until the end of 2020. http://connectedworld.com/the-uncarrier-view-to-2g-sunset/ Will Ford avoid the hardware problem by switching to T-Mobile? My 5 year data service expires in April 2018.

Tesla does not have GO times. They have smart preconditioning which attempts to learn your schedule and then have the car ready to go for you. It's of no value to anyone that doesn't have a regular schedule. Heat or cooling can be activated from the smartphone app.

I just got two text messages today at 12:38 PM that my car started charging at 04:46 PM and finished charging at 05:30 PM. The charge was done last Saturday, four days ago. :redcard:

Check the 12 volt battery connections in the trunk. It sounds like a loose cable. If they are tight then it's time for a load test on the 12 volt battery. https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BT-100-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B000AMBOI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467104907&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+load+tester

Is your car parked where it has a strong AT&T 2G signal? If not, Ford's server can't access your car. I am still waiting to hear what they plan to do since AT&T 2G will be gone as of 12/31/2016. My other car uses AT&T LTE. 2G was never a good choice, it should have been 3G.

That is usually caused by a loose connection in the receptacle. It was probably wired using the push-in holes for the wires instead of clamping the wires under the screws. Those work fine for a table lamp. They are a bad idea for a full load being drawn for 5 hours. Ford may decline to replace it under warranty if the fault was a badly wired receptacle and not a problem with the EVSE.

Is your car plugged in? It can't be started if it is plugged in.

A standard speed USB port is rated at 5 volts and 0.5 amps.

Do not remove the torsion bars. They are very strong and could easily injure you. I think it would take three people to reinstall them. One to hold the trunk lid up and the other two to wrestle them into place.

Unfortunately they don't want you to drive the car for years. They want you to buy a new one sooner rather than later.

Dealer's do their own thing. They would much rather sell oil changes to people that don't need it than do warranty work.

That many problems sounds like the 12 volt battery is weak.