murphy

The most an Energi will draw is 16 amps at 240 volts. I doubt that the charger in an Energi is capable of handling a higher input voltage. I have no idea if it can handle 208 volts but since it works at 120 or 240 it might. The charger in the car has to convert AC to DC and multiply the result up to a value high enough to charge a 350 volt battery. The new Mustang Mach-E has a CCS connector that allows direct DC charging. I can charge my Tesla at 240 volts 80 amps AC. It also takes direct DC charging at a Tesla Supercharger. It has a 400 volt battery. There is one advantage to using an oversized EVSE. It will have heavier wire which means less voltage drop. I have 3 EVSEs in my garage not counting the ones that come with the cars. Leviton 16 and 40 amp plus a Tesla 80 amp. This was a result of not thinking ahead. In 2013 I bought the Leviton 16 for my 2013 Enegi. In late 2014 I bought a Leviton 40 for a 2014 Tesla. In 2018 I bought a Tesla 80 for a 2016 Tesla. It also meant running the power to the garage three times. Charging is not at a constant current. As the SOC increases the current has to decrease because going over 100% is a very bad thing for a Li-Ion battery. I use the analogy of holding a beaker in your left bare hand and pouring a strong acid into it. The penalty for overfilling the beaker is severe. You end up dribbling the acid in at the end.

It will not restart. Once the HVB is fully charged the contactors , 2 of them, open and the HVB is completely disconnected from the car. There is nothing to cause it to lose charge. If the EVSE contactor is not closed there is no voltage available to the car. The car will not ask the EVSE to turn on if the HVB is fully charged.

The 12 volt battery is charged after the HVB reaches 100%. If the 12 volt is low and you don't charge to 100% you may find the 12 volt dead some morning. I don't have TOU power billing. My fee is the same 24/7. I always charge when I pull into the garage. IMHO if Ford felt it was necessary to charge to lower levels the y would have provided the ability to do it automatically. The charger is built into the car. The thing on the wall is called an EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). It is basically a smart switch that turns the AC on and off.

What is the ambient temperature? I'm getting around 10 miles from mine due to the freezing temperatures. Anything below 65° F is considered cold as far as the battery is concerned. The battery is completely disconnected from the car, by two contactors, when the car is off. Temperature is the only thing that can affect it.

The word "wipe" triggered something in my brain. If the 12 volt battery is disconnected or dies all of the operating parameters for the engine that have been learned over time are lost. The car must be driven through varying conditions for them to be relearned. My Owner's manual is hiding from me at the moment but I think the procedure is in the Owner's Manual. Dealer's don't like the Energi because they can't sell you an unneeded oil change every 3000 miles. An Energi needs an oil change every 2 years or 20,000 miles, whichever comes first. Don't get confused by the Owner's Manual. The same manual is used for the Energi and the Hybrid. The Hybrid is every year or 10,000 miles, whichever comes first.

It is physically impossible for the gasoline engine to move the car in reverse. There are no gears in the transmission to provide reverse. Reverse is only provided by one of the electric motors being powered to run backwards. The gas pedal is not connected to the engine. It is connected to the computer. The computer decides what RPM to run the engine at. There is no correlation between engine RPM and vehicle speed. You have to forget everything you know about engine sounds and vehicle speed. Is the car clean? There are 4 ultrasonic sensors on the rear bumper that are used to detect objects behind the car. If they are dirty they don't work very well. Cross traffic detection is provided by a radar transceiver in each of the rear fenders. I always have beeping as I back out of my garage. Quite often I get a cross traffic alert from the light pole beside my driveway. Given this information can you re-evaluate your situation. I'm not saying there is nothing wrong. It's just that this car is radically different from anything you have driven before. Your Ford dealer must be electric certified to be qualified to analyze problems with the car. Not all dealers spent the money to have technicians and sales persons trained to sell and service the car. Good luck. I have a 2013 and most of my driving has been electric only. For the last year it has mostly been parked in my garage due to Covid-19.

The car came with a 2G modem. When 2G went away Ford upgraded it to 3G for free. I don't know if it had to still be in warranty. I doubt they will do anything when 3G goes away. It shouldn't be long since my cell phone is now on 5G. The 12 volt outlets turn off after 70 minutes if the 12 volt battery has a good charge. If it is low they shut off immediately. Without 12 volts available the HVB is isolated from the car by two contactors. With the advent of Covid-19 my car sits in my garage most of the time. I have a smart battery charger connected to the terminals under the hood to keep the 12 volt battery from dying. All of the always on microprocessors in the car put a constant load on the 12 volt battery. Once the the HVB is fully charged the 12 volt battery is then charged. When that turns off it will never turn back on since there is no load on the HVB to draw it down. That is why I have a battery charger connected to the 12 volt battery. Welcome to the cold weather. I get about 10 miles out of my battery when it is below freezing.

The cost would be about 6 kWh times whatever you pay for a kWh. 6 * 0.16 = $0.96

It has been several years since my light ring was enabled so I don't remember the details. I'll try to remember to check it the next time the car needs a charge. It doesn't get driven much due to Covid-19.

HVB = High Voltage Battery The charger is built into the car. The box that everyone calls a charge is an EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). It takes care of things like a power failure while charging. When the power returns it delays the restart a random amount of time up to 30 minutes to avoid a huge instantaneous load on the power company by all of the chargers on the system starting at the same time. When charging of the HVB completes, charging of the 12 volt battery begins if it needs it. Mine always needs it. The notification to the app happens at HVB completion. If the EVSE is still on leave it alone until it shuts off. The second segment of my light ring burned out while I was still under warranty. It was replaced under warranty. Shortly after that I turned the light ring off and have not turned it back on. 116.8 VAC is quite low. The nominal voltage in the USA is 120 volts. You might want to check the tightness of the screws in the outlets and the circuit breaker. If any are loose that becomes a heat generation point. If heat is being generated there will be a voltage drop at that point. Do any of the receptacles being used have the spring clip connections in use. The type where you insert a small screwdriver to release the spring and pull the wire straight out. They are fine for a table lamp but are unsuitable for a continuous full load. The wire needs to be wrapped around the screw and clamped tight.

To charge at 240 volts you would need a suitable wire run from the panel to the garage. In my case that was 75 feet of 6 gauge 2 conductor plus ground cable. I used a Leviton 16 amp EVSE that had a 6-50 plug attached. 99% of my charging since 2013 has been at 240 volts. It is correct that the maximum current an Energi can take at 240 volts is 16 amps. A full charge takes just about 2 hours. I think the model number was EVB-16 but I don't think it is available any more. Do a search for EVSE and you will find lots to choose from. The original Ford supplied EVSE did not do 240 volts. It has been reported that the one supplied when the original was recalled is capable but it requires internal modifications. Since I already had a 240 volt EVSE I did not look into the changes that are required. Note: All electric cars have the charger built into the car. What is generally called a charger is an EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). It takes AC in and puts AC out. Electric only cars that support DC charging do take in DC. The Energi is not capable of doing that. The new Mustang Mach-E does have that capability using a CCS connector.

The battery is never "totally discharged". There is only one battery. When the EV reads zero that means it has dropped into the hybrid portion of the battery. I charge my battery when the car is put into the garage. There is a contingent on the forum that are protecting the battery for the next owner. They don't charge to 100%. They don't use it at all in the summertime. I bought the car to use, not save it for the next owner. You will have to decide which group you are in. Oh and 100% is not really 100%. It is whatever Ford was comfortable charging it to. It is generally believed, from using OBD2 scanners, that 100% is about 95%.

1. Yes. Someone fully charged the battery coming down from the top of Pike's Peak. 2. Put the car in EV Later mode each time you turn it on. It will not use the whole battery in hybrid mode although each time you turn it on the battery level will be a little lower. Use EV Now for slow speed driving around town. Use EV Later for high speed driving on throughways. I have a 2013 and it has been in Auto less than 5% of the time.

Have you set up a https://www.myfordmobile.com account? It's possible the previous owner of the car still has control of it if he or Carmax didn't delete his account. It takes 24 hours to create the account. Create it online. Then at least 24 hours later a screen will appear in the car that has to be acknowledged. This proves that you have control of the car. Do not try to create the account from the app. That has a history of not working.

Did you read the post before yours from over two years ago? The original poster made one post over two years ago and never came back. The EVSE MUST be plugged into the wall first. (It's not a charger, the charger is built into the car). Yes I know everyone calls it a charger. That doesn't make it one. Wait until the EVSE completes its power on start up. Plug the EVSE into the car. The light ring will circle while the car connects to the EVSE. If you listen closely you will hear two contactors pull in, one in the car and one in the EVSE. There are two charge now settings: Home and everywhere else. Have you defined Home to the car? If not, the everywhere else setting needs to be set to charge now. The outlet you use needs to be an individual outlet, That is no other outlets on the circuit. The car will use 12 amperes on a 120 volt 15 ampere circuit. That leaves nothing for anything else to use. (80% rule for continuous use). Is the battery cold soaked? If it is, charging can't start until it is warmed up although the EVSE should be supplying the power to do that. I have to ask. Is the battery already charged? Welcome to the world of electric driving. Mine is a 2013 Energi bought new.

I'm an Electrical Engineer (retired) and I bought the Wiring Diagram manual for the car.

When the car is on the 12 volts is supplied by the DC to DC converter. It is not coming from the 12 volt battery since it is impossible to charge and discharge a battery at the same time.

Forward of and above the 12 volt battery is a very thin metal panel. Wires cross over the top of this panel. If they are laying on top of the panel vibration can wear through the insulation. I long ago installed a large block of foam to keep the wires from touching the metal panel. I have forgotten what the symptoms of a short here is mainly because I took care of it before my wires were worn through.

If you don't use the original speaker you may have to disable the active noise cancellation because it will no longer match the ANC tuning.

The maximum current an Energi will draw from a 240 volt outlet is 16 amps. Bigger wire is always better since it reduces the voltage drop across the wire. I have a 2013 Energi. I don't know if any of the later model years made a change in the charging profile but I doubt it.

The majority of my driving is done on electricity only. I put about 2 gallons of gas in the car this year. I didn't go anywhere because of Covid-19.

I'm not sure why you need value charging. The PECO power rate is the same 24 hours a day 365 days a year. I plug my 2013 in when I return home and it's done 2 hours later using a 240 volt EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). The charger is built into the car. Since you are new to the car the heater is a 5 kW resistance heater that will reduce your electric range significantly during cold (below 60 F) weather. Below freezing I get about 10 miles on a charge . The car does not have a starter motor or an alternator. The engine is started by one of the two electric motors and the 12 volt battery is charged by a DC to DC converter. Both are powered from the 350 volt (approximate value) DC battery. The two propulsion motors operate on 3 phase AC provided by an inverter. I'm in Horsham, PA.

The Energi has its own app called "MyFord Mobile". At least my 2013 does. What they did later after they deactivated VHR for me, I don't know.

The procedure , when I had it, was to log into my account on myfordmobile.com and activate VHR. Then within the next 24 hours a message would pop up on the screen in the car that had to be acknowledged. When I had it, even though my car has a data modem, the transaction took place over a dial up cellphone connection. It sounds like they are now using a different process. Hopefully the process is explained in detail in the Owner's Manual. I have not driven a car later than my 2013 so I don't know what changes they may have made. All I know is that because of the changes VHR is no longer available for my 2013 Energi.

What year is your car? Vehicle Health Reports were terminated several years ago for my 2013.