murphy

1. Yes 2. I just charged my car a couple of hours ago. The EV part of the battery was empty, I was in hybrid mode as I entered the garage but the engine had not started. I have a very accurate kWh meter dedicated to car charging and I use a level 2 240 volt EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment), the charger is built into the car. The meter registered 6.46 kWh. The trip log, in the app, said I used 5.1 kWh to go 23.9 miles. My electric rate for the current month is $0.007354 so it cost me $0.05 to charge the battery. With your rate it would be $1.24. 3. Any time you are driving on a freeway EV Later is the best mode. Drag increases with the square of the velocity so the faster you go the quicker the battery will be empty in EV Now mode. It is not possible to drive on ICE only. There is no correlation between vehicle speed and ICE RPM. The computer selects the optimum RPM for the ICE. Drive is either all electric or a combination of ICE direct drive and electric drive. The eCVT is an amazing invention. Unlike a CVT, which has belts, an eCVT has no belts, only electric motors. The car is a hybrid when the HVB is depleted. I have never seen mpg that low. Actually my 2013 computes MPGe for me. That was deleted in later years. My MPGe for this mornings drive was 144.1. 4. I never use EV Auto if I can help it. Unfortunately it is the default in several situations. EV Now provides all of the power I that need. Besides in grid locked local driving passing is rarely possible. 5. When the HVB is depleted EV Now and EV Later no longer exist. In hybrid mode the computer tries to maintain the hybrid portion of the battery at 50%. It NEVER goes to 0. That is exactly the same as the hybrid version of the car. Going to 0 would be really bad because the next time the ICE turned off the car would be a useless chunk of metal. The ICE is started by one of the electric motors and they run off of the HVB. Note that there is only one battery. From memory, which doesn't always work, the lower 1.5 kWh of the HVB is dedicated to hybrid mode.

Don't panic when winter comes and it is below freezing and you only get 10 EV miles with the heater on. The 5 kW resistance heater puts a big load on the battery plus cold weather reduces the efficiency of the battery. My furthest regular destination is 10.5 miles away. From late spring through early fall my engine never starts.

No. The engine control will need to relearn its operating parameters just like it did when it was new. It can be avoided by connecting another battery to the jump terminals under the hood but that means you are working "hot". If the positive battery cable touches ground that can be disastrous. If you are not experienced working "hot" I wouldn't try it. The battery does not come out through the access panel opening. The fiber panels must be disconnected and moved out of the way first.

The battery is vented underneath the car. Look on the ground directly below the battery for evidence. It should not be hot. That sounds like one of the cells has shorted out. Replace it.

If the car is in fuel freshness mode it will run the engine until it is down to about 1/8 of a tank. You should be able to abort fuel freshness mode by adding a couple of gallons of fresh gas to the tank.

Yes I like my car. I kept it when I bought a Tesla. The only thing I have spent money on in over four years of ownership is two oil changes. I also bought a 7 year 36,000 mile warranty (ESP) for it. The 7 years will expire before the mileage does. A car is not an investment. It loses significant value when it is driven off of the lot. Maybe if kept for 50 years it would become a collectors item and gain in value. I won't be around in 50 years so I will never know.

Did he charge the new battery before he installed it? Did the tech have the car on in accessory mode to listen to the radio while he worked on it for four hours? The car is loaded with electronics that are powered by the 12 volt battery. Most modern computerized cars have a tendency to drain the 12 volt battery. A parked Tesla recharges the 12 volt battery up to 5 times a day from the high voltage battery. An Energi can't do that because the high voltage battery is only 7.6 kWh versus the Tesla 60 kWh to 100 kWh battery. When my Energi will be sitting unused for several days I connect a 12 volt battery maintainer to the battery.

Let them know you want the big battery charged before you do a test drive. They typically don't bother to charge it which means that you get to test drive it as a hybrid.

Check fuse 27 in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel.

I've never seen anything later than my 2013. I have heard that starting in 2014 they removed the MPGe display and only have mpg. That means for all electric operation the mpg will be 999.9 which conveys no useful information. Depending on when in 2014 it was built the warranty may still be in effect.

Mine has always made 21. This morning it was at 24. It is currently charging and the "hover over the battery" estimate is 25.

The modem is how the My Ford Mobile website and app communicate with the car. Go here: https://www.myfordmobile.com/content/mfm/app/site/login.html and click on "Enter as Guest" to see what it does. There is a way to determine if the modem has been upgraded from the center screen. I can't tell you how to do it from memory. I'll write down the steps the next time I am in the car. There is a modem number on an information screen, If it begins with "T" the new modem has been installed. Mine was done last November. The modem upgrade should be free. I expect the 3 year / 36,000 mile warranty has expired unless the previous owner bought the extended warranty. The 12 volt battery is unique, it is small for a car battery. It is located behind a panel in the trunk. It is unlikely that you will find it anywhere other than at a Ford dealer. A Ford dealer can load test it to determine if it needs to be replaced. Update: Modem information: Press the gear icon Press the Help icon Press System Information Press down arrow Find: CPPM ESN: Txxxxx If the first letter of the ESN is a T, the 3G modem has been installed. If it's anything else, the 3G modem has not been installed.

Verify that the data modem has been upgraded to a 3G modem. The car came with a 2G modem and AT&T shut down 2G service on December 31, 2016. This is a free upgrade at a Ford dealer. If it still has the original 12 volt battery it is time for a new one. Does it have push button start? If it does make sure that two key fobs come with the car. Verify that there is a "real" key inside of each fob. It is used to unlock the driver's door in the event of a dead 12 volt battery. If it doesn't have push button start, then there should be two real keys with the car. The rated electric only mileage is 21 miles. That will only happen when the ambient temperature is above 70 degrees F. In the winter with the heat on I get about 10 miles. Cold doesn't damage the battery but its efficiency drops dramatically. Verify that the 120 volt EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment) is included with the car and that it works. It is commonly called a charger but it is not a charger. The charger is built into the car. It takes up to 7 hours to charge the battery with the 120 volt EVSE. An after market 240 volt EVSE will charge the battery in 2 hours. There is no spare tire with the car. There should be an air compressor in the trunk, in the same location as the EVSE. It includes a canister of "goo" used to stop a small leak in a tire. After 4 years the "goo" canister has expired and is supposed to be replaced. I have not replaced mine since I carry a separate can of Slime brand "goo". I've not had a flat tire in at least 20 years. I use the car for local driving only. From late spring through early fall the engine is not used at all. Put the car in EV Now mode for the first part of the test drive to guarantee that you experience electric only driving. Switching to EV Later mode will force the engine to be used. In EV Later mode it operates the same as a hybrid. When the High Voltage Battery (HVB) is empty it also operates as a hybrid.

The Federal is based on the capacity of the battery. Under 10 kWh is $4007, over 10 kWh is $7500.

The Federal tax credit was $4007. I have no idea what CA might have offered.

The car was not designed to use level 3 (DC) charging. That would require a CHAdeMO connector. The built-in AC charger was designed for a max of 240 volts at 16 amps. Years ago someone started at the top of Pike's Peak with an empty battery and completely filled it on the way down.

I have 10 kW of solar panels on the roof of my house. My Energi driving is mostly local and the engine is rarely used spring through fall. All of the battery charging comes from the sun.

Blink, Chargepoint, and EVgo are charging companies. Plugshare is a user supported system that aggregates the locations of all kinds of charging systems including owners that make their home charging EVSE available to others by appointment. You must be a Plugshare member to see those. Some commercial locations are free and some charge by time connected because they are prohibited from charging by kWh supplied because they are not electric utility companies. Charging by time for an Energi can be expensive since the car is limited to 3.8 kW which means at least 2 hours to charge fully. I don't think card sharing is available today. You need each card. I have a Chargepoint card, that was free, that I have not used in four years and a Greenlots card, that cost $5, that I have used once. In some cases an app on a cellphone can be used in place of a card. 99.99999% of my charging is done in my garage or in my brother's driveway. One place that I have been has free charging but is located in a parking lot that charges $3 per hour to park and has a tow truck on standby if you run over the time you prepaid for.

If the car detects that you are likely to run into something they will start flashing and an annoying audible warning will be heard. In my 2013 the braking system is precharged so that when the brake pedal is depressed immediate and full braking will be available. I do not know if later years may have changed what happens in the event that a collision is detected as being imminent. It's covered in your Owner's Manual. Please read it.

No. I don't use the engine if I can avoid it. The vast majority of my driving is in EV Now mode. I put gas in my gas tank about once a year.

Are you sure that you aren't looking at the manual for the standard Fusion? The manual title includes Hybrid / Energi for the Hybrid and the Energi. From my manual Octane Recommendations Regular unleaded gasoline with a pump (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87 is recommended. Some fuel stations offer fuels posted as regular with an octane rating below 87, particularly in high altitude areas. Fuels with octane levels below 87 are not recommended. Do not be concerned if your engine sometimes knocks lightly. However, if it knocks heavily while you are using fuel with the recommended octane rating, see your authorized dealer to prevent any engine damage. My Energi works fine on regular (87 octane). That is when the engine starts. It usually doesn't start from late spring through early fall.

My car seems to be in the twilight zone. I just received the following in an email. You've made a new achievement: 10,000 EV Miles. My odometer is currently at 7,910 miles and those are not all EV miles. :headscratch:

The outlets turn off 70 minutes after the car is turned off. If the 12 volt battery is low and the car goes into battery preservation mode, they turn off immediately.

Are you doing this in the car, on the web site, or using the app? Is the car in a location where it has a good AT&T cell phone signal?

See post #2 in this thread.