murphy

Flood Ford is a Ford dealership. It is my understanding that the ESP warranty must be purchased before the 3 year / 36,000 mile warranty expires.

I did not have to get my roof reinforced. My house was built in 1957. Part of the construction permit was certifying the roof and the mechanical inspector was specifically looking for screws that did not go into the roof beams. He didn't find any. One thing I required the installer to do was put chicken wire around the outside of the area below the panels to keep the squirrels from getting under there and chewing on the wires. Mixing grid tie with batteries is going to require a special design that your power company will have to approve. There must not be any way that power from the panels can get out on the power company lines when the power company is down. The microinverters, that are under the panels, automatically shut down if the power company feed stops.

I have 10kW of PV solar on the roof of my house. It is not the type where the roof is rented to some company for 20 years and they give a slightly lower rate. I own the system outright and got a 30% tax credit against the cost. My electric bill last month was $3.03. There are no tiered rates here. It's about 16 cents per kWh 24/7/365. Here is my system. https://enlighten.enphaseenergy.com/pv/public_systems/r5Ns249308/overview Since September 2013 I have generated 48,672 kWh. It's the best investment I ever made. Avoid the trap of trying to calculate the payback period. It's an improvement to the house. You get the cost back when you sell the house.

Welcome to the future Ryan. I am retired so don't have a commute any more. My longest regular trip is 10.5 miles once a week. I put gas in my car about once a year and keep the tank at 1/4 full.

I keep getting letters telling me my factory warranty has expired and I should buy theirs. My factory extended warranty doesn't expire until 2020.

The "stick" part of the antenna is for AM and FM. The satellite antenna is in the base. The shark fin replaces the stick but does not modify satellite reception. The antenna in the shark fin connects to the point that the stick is disconnected from to remove it.

Did you have the car in EV Only mode? There is a 5 kW resistance heater to provide heat in electric only mode. Unfortunately it puts a big dent in the number of miles you can get. Cold weather also reduces the efficiency of the battery. Below freezing I get about 10 miles without using the heater. In Auto the car decides what is going to happen. The only time I use Auto is when it switches to Auto and I don't catch it before I leave. Try a warm coat and turn the seat heater on. Mine doesn't have a heated steering wheel so I wear gloves when it is below freezing. The ICE and the electric motor can move the car at the same time. The computer sets the ICE RPM for maximum efficiency. If you haven't noticed, there is no correlation between speed and engine RPM. The throttle pedal is not connected to the engine. It tells the computer what you want and the computer decides how to provide it. It is impossible for the ICE to move the car in reverse. Reverse is an electric motor only situation.

Are you driving in EV Only mode at 85 mph? High speed driving exhausts the battery in a hurry and severely impacts the electric range. Anything over about 47 mph should be done in EV Later mode. The air conditioner reduces mileage in EV Only mode. The heater is worse but I doubt you need that in CA. EV miles are an estimate based on previous usage of the battery. When the temperature goes below freezing here I get about 10 miles before the HVB is empty. You get 21 miles when the car is driven under the exact conditions of the EPA test of the car. Battery capacity is not determined by miles. It is determined by kWh. How many kWh are recorded in your MFM account when the battery is charged from 0 to 100%?

You do not get 7.6kWh. 1.5 kWh is reserved for hybrid mode and an unknown amount is reserved for anti-bricking. A Li-ion battery will be destroyed if it is discharged to complete 0.

The original 2013 design was poor. Passengers were accidentally opening the fuel door. Changing the mode is not something that should be closer to the passenger than the driver.

Look on the passenger side of the console for a row of up to three buttons. In my 2013 the one closest to the front of the car cycles between Auto, EV Only, and EV Later. The next one opens the fuel door and if the car is equipped the third one activates automatic parallel parking.

Careful, the mini spare that was found for the hybrid will NOT work on an Energi. The Energi has larger brake calipers, presumably due to the much heavier HVB, and the mini spare will not fit over them. I know, I tried.

It also loses the engine learned parameters. The engine has to relearn its operating parameters.

Yes, off to the dealer to make him do what he should have done before he sold the car to you. Go to https://owner.ford.com and create an account if you don't already have one. That website will display all of the outstanding recalls for your car. Tell him that you want all of them done. There is no charge for installing recalls. There may be one that is just a warranty extension for the APIM. That one only applies if your APIM module fails.

The important question is was the recall installed to replace the now useless 2G data modem with a 3G data modem? Turn the car on Press the gear icon in the center screen Press the Help icon Press System Information Press down arrow Does the CPPM ESN: entry start with the letterT If it does not, the recall has not been performed. AT&T shut down its 2G network 12/31/2016. Communication with the car is not possible anymore with a 2G modem. See your dealer for the recall and make sure he understands that he is not installing a replacement 2G modem. It must be a brand new 3G modem. There is no charge for this recall. IF it does start with the letter T pulling fuse 10 for a few minutes will reset the data modem. The fuse panel is above the left side of the driver's feet. It is extremely difficult to get to. A much easier approach is to disconnect the negative lead of the 12 volt battery in the trunk. The only downside is the engine loses its learned timings and has to relearn them.

Take it to a friends house and try it there. If it works there you may have a problem with the wiring in your house.

There is nothing wrong with the correct extension cord. The problem is that the extension cords most people have laying around are built with 16 gauge wire. That is not appropriate for much of anything. A 15 amp circuit requires a minimum of 14 gauge wire. I use a 50 foot extension cord that has 10 gauge wire.

If you didn't purchase a warranty extension then it is not under the bumper to bumpr warranty. On the other hand there is the 8 year / 100,000 mile Hybrid Unique Components warranty. I do not know if the light ring and internal charger are considered to be "hybrid unique components".

Are you using the supplied 120 volt EVSE or an aftermarket 240 volt EVSE? Are you sure the J-1772 plug is firmly inserted in to the connector on the car. If it's the 120 volt EVSE have you tried a different outlet? Take it to your dealer and try the 240 volt EVSE that is supposed to be available on the outside of their building.

I have not heard any sound from my 120 volt "charging cord", my 240 volt EVSE, or my car in 4.4 years of charging the car. Do you have a smoke detector in your garage that needs a new battery? Does your neighbor have a smoke detector that needs a new battery? Unexplained beeping is very often traced to a smoke detector that needs a new battery.

http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/3544-recover-the-5-digit-security-code/?do=findComment&comment=23383

The DC to DC converter does the same job as an alternator in a standard car. It gets power from the HVB if the engine is not running or from one of the MGs (motor/generator) if the engine is running.

It is wired to the 12 volt battery. It's 14.2 volts because the DC-DC converter is charging the 12 volt battery.

Have you looked in the back seat? The car has a built in inverter that is good for 150 watts I think.

They are not outputs, they are inputs to charge the 12 volt battery. They go directly to the battery through some sensors that are attached to the battery posts.