murphy

This is what the key fob looks like. https://northcoastkeyless.com/shop/ford-keyless-entry-remotes/2013-2015-ford-fusion-energi-titanium-smart-key-keyless-entry-remote-fcc-id-m3n-a2c31243300-pn-164-r7989/ The upper 2x button is the remote start button. The lower 2x button opens the trunk.

Does the car have pushbutton start? There are many things that will prevent remote start. The most likely is a low 12 volt battery. Do you have the Owner's Manual? It can be downloaded from your account at https://owner.ford.com If you don't have an account you can create one there using your VIN. The Owner's Manual describes all of the requirements for remote start and how to use it. You should have received two key fobs with the car. If you didn't there is another one somewhere in the world that can access your car. Take the car to a Ford dealer and have them clear the key fob memory and then add your key back to the car.

In my 2013 the only important loss is the engine has to relearn its operating parameters. That is automatic, takes about 25 miles of engine use. Some of your personalized options may need to be put back to the way that you want them.

Open up your key fob and remove the metal key. Pop the cap off of the driver's door handle. Insert key and unlock driver's door. Release the hood. Get your Owner's Manual out of the glove box. Connect a battery charger or jumper battery to the terminals under the hood. The Manual will show you where they are. Start the car.

Go to the trunk. open the access panel, and disconnect the negative lead (nearest the rear of the car) of the 12 volt battery for 1 minute. Reconnect the battery. The alternative is standing on your head in the driver foot well so you can see the fuse panel and disconnecting fuse #10 for 1 minute. Either way does a complete reset of the modem. Then check to see if you now have an ESN.

Yes. The car does not control me. I control the car. I use it the way that I want to use it. It is not an investment. It is guaranteed to lose value. When I got rid of my 2002 Crown Victoria the most I could get for it was $600. I don't care what its capabilities will be when I get rid of it. I bought the car to use it, not to preserve it for the next owner. YMMV.

Are you driving freeway speeds in EV Only mode? That will drop your range significantly since drag increases with the square of the speed. The hybrid unique warranty is 8 years / 100,000 miles in most states. I think I remember it is different in California. It is on your Monroney sticker. It apparently does not warrant normal range loss unless it drops to zero (battery failure).

I don't know about lube but I suppose anything that stays fluid below freezing and doesn't conduct electricity would be okay. Let's make sure you know how to correctly open it. My salesman had no clue on the proper operation and almost broke mine before I took possession of the car. Both open and close are done by pushing on the indentation on the door until the operation is complete. Water should not be able to get in there. There is a soft rubber ring that seals against the back of the door when it is closed.

Use a hair dryer to flow warm air into the area while pressing in on the release area (indentation). I have not done this. I park in a garage and mine has never been frozen.

The 12 volt battery is charged upon completion of the HVB charge. When that finishes the 12 volt battery will not be charged again unless another charge cycle of the HVB is initiated. The car can remain plugged in and the 12 volt battery can go completely dead The car does not monitor it. My car sometimes sits for a week without being driven. In that situation I connect a smart battery charger to the 12 volt terminals under the hood to keep the 12 volt battery charged. When the car is off the HVB is completely disconnected and will not lose any charge. Are you using the app to check on the car? I have measured a current spike in excess of 10 amps when the app connects to the car.via a Ford server.

Make sure that they load test the 12 volt battery. It sounds like it is failing. Either that or something is not turning off when the car is turned off. There was at least one period in the past where they got a bad batch of batteries from their supplier. After the HVB finishes charging do you leave the EVSE connected? That is when the 12 volt battery is charged if it needs it. (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment - the charger is built into the car)

Since they were introduced in 2013 no one will know what the 10 year experience will be for another 5 years. I expected to see one with a bigger battery by now but that hasn't happened.

They performed PPT FB diagnostic. (I don't know what those letters stand for.) Apparently it has 5 steps and the YES and NOs are the answers to those steps. It says they replaced the wire and the sensor.

If the connections are corroded they need to be cleaned or replaced. The grease is to keep out water. It can't repair a bad connection.

My ancient memory says the connections to the temperature sensor are corroded. Whether or not that is right, I don't know but it's worth a look.

If the 12 volt battery is low and the car has entered battery protection mode that is what I would expect to happen. Running all of the window motors at the same time draws a lot of current. Start the car and then see if it works.

Apparently you have never washed your car with a garden hose. If the fob is in your pocket and you spray the door handle the car goes nuts.

I have brought 8 foot long 2x4s home in the trunk. Fold down the back seats and lay the passenger seat back as far as it will go. Slide the boards through the slot.

MPG is meaningless if the engine is not in use. My 2013 can display MPGe which takes electric and ICE use into account. I have no clue why they removed the MPGe display.

My 2013 does not do that.

I'll assume your drive is city streets to get to an expressway, then expressway to near your work location, then more city streets when you leave the expressway. In that scenario drive the city streets at both ends in EV Now mode and the Expressway in EV Later mode EV Later forces the use of the engine. You are not going to get 20 EV miles in the Pocono mountains in the winter time because the battery is less efficient and the heater draws a max of 5 kW. Energy used to heat the cabin is not available for propulsion. You also will not get 20 EV miles on the Turnpike at 70 mph since the drag increases with the square of the speed. EV Later is basically the same as the hybrid version of the car.

Maximum acceleration requires the engine and the electric motor at the same time. Yes they can both drive the wheels at the same time. Floor it in EV Only for a sustained period and the engine will start without asking for permission. At least it did for me when I did a panic acceleration.

When I come to my car in a hot parking lot in the middle of the summer I immediately open the roof to let all of the accumulated hot air escape before I get into the car.

The oil change interval for an Energi is 2 years or 20,000 miles. The Hybrid is 1 year or 10,000 miles. Both cars are in the same Owner's Manual so you have to pay attention to the headings.

My light ring was replaced under the ESP warranty for segment 2 being non-functional.