murphy

Maybe this will help.

According to the 2013 wiring diagram manual it is as high as is possible on the right side of the car, probably behind a panel, in the trunk. The component location view is a gray scale print that leaves a lot to be desired in the way of detail. Look for a large cable bundle coming from the driver side of the car. It drops straight down for a bit then continues toward the right as a smaller bundle. It splits into a small cable that goes toward the back of the car and a slightly larger cable that goes straight up to the TCU. The TCU is not very big. Everything it needs to do can be done in a single integrated circuit.

I never found the modem but i did read that access to it was from the top of the parcel shelf. It may be in or close to the driver side C pillar. The answer to 3G shutdown is unknown to me. When 2G was shutdown Ford installed a 3G modem for free. LTE was already in use and IMHO they should have installed a 4G modem. I solved the problem by trading my 2013 Energi in on a 2021 Mach-E.

How long did you leave the battery disconnected? All of the power has to drain away before it is reconnected. You are approaching the end of 3G. AT&T 3G (what the car uses) gets shutdown in February 2022.

Something got corrupted. Several rollbacks were tried but they all exhibited the problem. They had to get the company they bought the forum software from to fix it. I don't know what the actual problem was.

Pull and replace the fuse for the data modem. I think it is #10 in the driver's foot well. OR, much easier unless you enjoy standing on your head, disconnect the negative (ground) lead of the 12 volt battery for 1 minute. There have been many reports of the modem going to sleep. This has the side effect of the engine losing its learned parameters. It will take up to 25 miles for it to relearn them the same as it did when the car was new.

There are two terminals under the hood that can be used to charge the 12 volt battery. A red soft cover for + and a bolt sticking up out of the shock tower for -.

1. There have been very few changes. In the later years they upped the range from 21 to 25 miles with a slightly bigger battery. 2. Titanium trim does not include adaptive cruise control and automatic parallel parking. Those are both extra cost options. 3. The only failure I have had is one segment of the light ring around the charge port burned out. 4. My 2013 has less that 12000 miles on it. It is an around town car for me. Soon, I hope, to be traded for a Mach-E. 5. It sounds like the EV Now portion of the battery was empty and you were driving in hybrid mode. Many dealers don't know they are supposed to charge the battery. If the EV Now portion of the battery is not empty just putting the mode in EV Now is all that is required with a couple of exceptions. Oil maintenance mode and gasoline maintenance mode will force the engine to run. 6. The car is rated at 21 miles EV. That is with no heat or air conditioning and the battery above 70° F. I have a 2013 and that is the way mine is driven most of the time. I try to never use the engine. 7. It takes at most 7 kWh to charge the battery. Multiply the rate you pay for 1 kWh by 7 to get your answer.

Do you live in the snow belt? The capacity of the battery is temperature dependent. My range is cut in half when it is below freezing. The battery is divided into three regions. EV driving 5.6 kWh Hybrid driving 1.5 kWh Battery protection 0.5 kWh Total battery size 7.6 kWh When the EV driving display goes to zero the battery is actually at 2.0 kWh.

Which mode are you driving in? Auto EV Now EV Later Auto is not hybrid mode. It uses the battery until the battery is empty and then switches to hybrid mode. Full throttle acceleration usually starts the engine in this mode. I have a 2013 and never use this mode on purpose. EV Now is the mode I use for around town. The engine never starts because the battery is never empty. EV Later is the mode I use for a trip. This is a hybrid mode that locks in the the battery level and does not vary it more than about 5%. When the engine is off the display is blue. When the engine is on the display is white. This mode must be selected every time the car is turned on. The 2013 has the ability to display MPGe or MPG. I always use MPGe. Driving in all electric mode all of the time very quickly puts MPG at 999 which is the car's version of infinity.

I put 10 kW of solar panels on the roof of my house in September 2013. That was 5 months after the Energi was delivered.

Thanks howardbc. When the Mach-E arrives it will sit beside the 2016 Tesla S90D in my garage. At that point the only thing left that uses gasoline will be the snow blower. And that may change before it snows again in PA. Everything else, including the zero turn lawn mower, is electric. Covid put a huge dent in my driving last year but I'm now fully vaccinated and it looks like everything will loosen up in the next couple of months.

howardbc, I also bought a 2016 Tesla Model S.. I still have my 2013 Energi although it is about to be traded for a Mach-E Premium. It is scheduled to be built the week of May 24. It was ordered 1/6/2021. I'm not going to "kick you off the forum" and I think I am the only moderator still visiting the forum. John

Did you take it to an electric certified dealer? Any dealer that didn't do the training to get certified has no clue about the car. Are you driving in EV now mode? i.e. Not in Auto and not in EV Later modes. What speed are you driving at? 85 mph will drain the battery in a hurry. I can drive on local roads at a max of 45 mph for an hour before the battery hits zero and the car switches to hybrid mode. My car is a 2013.

The wires from under the hood to the battery are too small to support the current required to start a traditional ICE engine. They were sized to support charging the battery. Connect directly to the battery posts in the trunk. Make sure you are directly on the posts and not on the current measuring connections. I suspect that much current would destroy the current measurement sensors.

Ford dealers had to send a minimum of two technicians and two sales persons to school to be trained on the electric vehicles to become electric certified. Many dealers did not bother because they though electric vehicles were a passing fad. This was in 2013. A mechanical switch has a lever that is moved by the charging plug when it is inserted into the socket. It can also be done with a magnet. It could also be done by detecting current flow on the control wires. I don't know how they chose to do it. The charge port was changed in my 2013 Energi because one of the four light segments burned out, for free under the warranty. I don't know which warranty since I had a 7 year ESP on the car at the time.

Ford service stopped supporting the forum many years ago. The message you replied to is from 2014. Is the dealer you took it to electric certified? If they are not, they are just guessing about the problem. Go to the main ford web site and do a dealer search. Click the box for electric certified. The Energi has an 8 year / 100,000 mile warranty on the hybrid unique components. I don't know if that includes the charge port. Inspect the charge port looking for foreign material. I don't know if they use a mechanical switch but if they do and something is lodged against it that could be the problem.

The voltage standard in the USA has been 120/240 for at least 75 years for any utility that is connected to the GRID. 208 means that it is derived from a 3 phase system which is usually only found in a commercial environment. I have never seen 3 phase power in a residential area.

Measure the 12 volt battery voltage with the car on. If it is not above 12.7 volts, which is the voltage of a fully charged battery, then the DC to DC converter is not working. It could be a high voltage fuse or the converter itself.

I'm not sure what you are saying. There is nothing in an Energi that puts a big load on the 12 volt battery. The engine is started by the high voltage battery. There is no traditional starter motor. There is no alternator. The 12 volt battery is charged by a DC to DC converter from the high voltage battery. 200 amps sounds like high voltage circuits. Are the wires orange? Be careful. 350 volts DC can kill you.

You do not want to mess with the charger for a LI-Ion battery. Overcharging a Li-Ion battery releases the smoke and fire. The charger must be able to continuously reduce the charge current as the max charge point is approached. Hold a beaker in your left hand. Pour a very strong acid into the beaker. What is the penalty for pouring too much acid? The same is true for charging a Li-Ion battery. The penalty is severe if maximum is exceeded.

You didn't include hazardous duty pay for working around 350 volts DC. It doesn't make you jump, it kills you. The battery is supposed to last the life of the car. If the battery was dead there would be no way to start the engine. The car does not have a traditional starter motor.

The engine should not start if the EVSE is plugged into the car if you activate climate control. I would hope that remote start does not start the engine if the EVSE is plugged in. I have not tested that in the 8 years I have had my car. I don't know if the car knows that the EVSE is connected if the EVSE has no source of power. Update: The car does know the EVSE is plugged into it when the EVSE is not powered. If you turn the power to the EVSE off, that is the same as a power failure. The EVSE has a power failure protocol. All EVSEs have this protocol. The EVSE will wait a random amount of time of up to 30 minutes before it turns back on. The purpose is to prevent all of the EVSEs connected to the power company from turning on the instant power is restored. The load that would present to the power company could knock them back offline. I was never able to precondition my car on 120 volts. There are only 1440 watts available which won't create much heat in a 5000 watt heater. With 240 volts there are 3840 watts available which works a lot better. EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment) It's a special purpose AC power switch. The charger is built into the car.

There is no heat in my engine. I hardly ever use it. When the engine is running heat is taken from the water jacket to heat the cabin just like every other car. The resistance heater is only for full electric heat. BEVs don't have an engine.

To charge at 40 amps you need a 50 amp circuit because of the 80% rule for continuous loads. 80% of 50 is 40. A 50 amp circuit needs to be wired with 6 gauge wire.