murphy

Given that Ford has announced that they are going to stop production of the Fusion, among others, it is unlikely that will be an option. Six years after my car was built they add 4 miles to the range. Meanwhile the 2018 Honda Clarity PHEV has a 47 mile rating and my friend says his is showing 50 miles now that the temperature is getting higher. The Clarity does not have the trunk filled up by the battery.

If you have a short commute the car may not be on long enough to fully charge the 12 volt battery. When the HVB finishes charging you will get a notice that charging is complete. That is misleading because that is when the charging of the 12 volt battery starts. You need to wait until the EVSE charging indicator goes off before disconnecting it from the car.

Once I'm forced to go somewhere else I won't be back. I have two years to go on my ESP warranty so I'll see what the status is in 2020.

Looks like my 2013 Ford Fusion Energi will be my last Ford. The Energi should have doubled or tripled its electric range by now. I don't need a truck or an SUV (pseudo truck) or a Mustang. My last non Ford vehicle was a 1964 Plymouth, bought new and driven by me and two of my brothers until it died at 120,000 miles.

1.5 kWh is dedicated to hybrid mode and is not available for EV mode. It's 7.6 - 1.5 = 6.1. Then there is the reserved portion so the battery can never be discharged to 0 which would destroy it. I think that is 0.5 kWh so that drops it to 5.6 kWh which is in the ball park with your 5.4. How cold is it? You won't get the maximum number until it is 72° F outside.

Don't worry about ROI. A car is not an investment. You lost way more than the cost of a level 2 EVSE when you drove the car off of the lot. The maximum current the car can use at 240 volts is 16 amps. Only get one that has higher current capability if you plan to get a car that can use the higher current. Do a Google search for EVSE to see what is available. Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE). My car is not used for trips. I put a couple of gallons of gas into it per year. A 240 volt EVSE charges the battery in 2 hours. Late spring through early fall my engine does not run at all. I know nothing about this one but it goes for $219. https://amazing-e.com/

The Energi has a pressurized gas tank. The gas has to be in the tank for 18 months before the car will force the engine to run to get rid of it.

This is why it is best to not disconnect the positive cable from the battery. If it was disconnected it would have to be wrapped with insulation so there was no possibility that it could come in contact with the frame of the car. The negative cable is already connected to the frame of the car so there is no risk with it.

Sorry, I forgot about that. My car has a rope in place. However you could connect 12 volts to the jump terminals under the hood to get the power to open the trunk.

In my experience the battery will not last for a week let alone 30 days. Just disconnect the negative lead from the battery, the one toward the back of the car. The battery is vented underneath the car and a disconnected battery is not going to be releasing hydrogen. That only happens when the battery is being charged. There is no reason to leave the trunk open. The odometer is required by law to not be able to be reset. The odometer and trip meters will not be reset. The engine will lose its learned parameters. It will relearn them in 25 miles of driving just like it did when the car was new. There may be a few personal settings that may need to be reset. My 2013 can display mpg or mpge. I always have to switch back to mpge when the battery gets disconnected by service.

Did you receive a letter from Ford stating that parts are now available? That has happened several months after the initial letter for every recall on my 2013. There have been a lot of recalls on my 2013.

They are fixing the ones on the lot because they can't sell them until they are fixed.

I'll spell it out. The engine turns one of the AC motor/generators to generate 3 phase electricity. That 3 phase electricity has to be rectified to DC to charge the battery. There is loss in that process. For the car to run in electric mode DC from the battery is fed to an inverter which converts it to 3 phase AC. There is also loss in that process. Power delivered directly to the wheels from the engine is more efficient than the engine charging and discharging a battery to drive the wheels. The PHEV only makes sense when the electricity comes from the wall or in my case from the PV solar panels on the roof of my house. There is a reason this power system is computer controlled. It is really complicated to maintain maximum efficiency.

Switching to a 6-20 plug and receptacle would solve the original worry. Is the wire in the cable to the J1774 rated for 16 amps? Make sure it is not coiled while in use so it has maximum heat dissipation. Is the power supply inside of the EVSE designed such that it can handle 240 volts without burning out the coil in the contactor that turns on the power? Are the LEDs at the same intensity on 240 volts as on 120 volts? I was going to look at mine but it is plastic welded together.

Are you connecting the J1772 to the car before you plug the EVSE into the wall? That will invoke the power failure timer which can wait up to 30 minutes. That timer is to prevent all of the EVSEs in the area from trying to start at the same time when power is restored. Plug the EVSE into wall power first and wait for the power on self test to complete before connecting to the car. There are pictures on the side of the Leviton 16 amp EVSE that show the light patterns for the power on sequence.

Are you saying that you removed the 6-20 plug and installed a 14-50 plug? If that is the case there should not be any connection to the center flat blade (neutral). The 6-20 that comes installed on the unit has two hot wires and a building ground wire. For future reference Tesla doesn't use the neutral either. Putting smaller wires in a 14-50 can be a problem. Were ferrules put on the wires to increase their size and provide more copper to clamp down on? If you just had the red light, that means you have power but the car has not commanded the EVSE to connect power to the car or has requested a shutdown for some reason. Are you using Value charging? There have been a lot of reports of that not working properly. I've never used Value charging because my electric rate is the same 24 hours per day.

Since I'm not there to look at it I'll ask a bunch of questions. Is the outlet that you are plugged into the only outlet on that circuit breaker? It's mandatory. Is it wired with 12 gauge or heavier wire? Is the circuit breaker a double pole 20 amp breaker? Is it less than 100 feet from the panel to the outlet? More than 100 feet would benefit from 10 gauge wire. Is the ground pin of the 6-20 outlet connected to building ground and not to neutral? Do you have any appliances that could turn on at night and place a large load on the panel causing the voltage to sag for a bit? Is the J1772 plug fully seated in the car's outlet? Does your area suffer from extremely short power failures of a couple of seconds? Do the directions for the EVSE give a list of what can cause the fault light to come on?

I'm not sure if that will be enough. The remote start system will not work if: • the ignition is on • the alarm system triggered • you disable the feature • the hood is open • the transmission is not in P • the vehicle battery voltage is too low • the service engine soon light is on. The parking lamps will remain on and the engine will run for 5, 10, or 15 minutes, depending on the setting. My recollection is that remote start can only be used twice within a one hour period.

If you drive the car every day you should not have a problem. If you let the car sit for a couple of weeks without being driven you will have a problem. There are computers in the car that are never turned off that will eventually discharge the battery. The only way to completely turn the car off is to disconnect the 12 volt battery. My car doesn't get driven much. I keep it alive by connecting a battery charger to the terminals under the hood.

Are you getting low 12 volt battery warnings? It sounds like the car is completely shutting down to avoid a dead 12 volt battery. Have the battery load tested.

"The UPS Store" provides packing services for a fee.

I don;t have it in my 2013 but I do have it in my other car. Try depressing the accelerator pedal to get it moving a little sooner.

Very disappointing. By now the electric range should have been doubled or tripled. The Honda Clarity PHEV is rated for 47 miles on electric.

The problem is that the steering wheel comes off of the steering shaft. Avoid pulling the steering wheel toward you. It is splined to the shaft so rotation force is not a problem.

The charger is in the car. The Chargepoint box is a big relay and circuitry to make sure the correct current is supplied to the car. The AC voltage has to be rectified to DC and multiplied up to over 350 volts to charge the battery. There is loss in that process. The loss is higher if a 120 volt EVSE is being used since the multiplication is now from 120 volts AC to over 350 volts DC. 20% loss is in the ball park.