murphy

Disconnect the negative lead of the 12 volt battery, behind the door in the trunk, for 5 minutes. That will reinitialize the data modem. It can also be done by removing the fuse for the data modem but that is really difficult to get to. What section do you want the thread moved to?

Sorry, I have a 2013 and have the paper electrical manual for it. I don't worry about the engine service because the engine hardly ever runs and I still have an ESP warranty on the car which is good until April 2020. It's my around town car for groceries, Lowe's, breakfast meetings etc. For out of town trips I use my other car which has a 90 kWh battery and a significantly bigger trunk. I had assumed that by now Ford would have a much more capable Fusion. Instead they raised the miles from 21 to 25 and then announced the Fusion will be discontinued. The have canceled every model I have ever bought from them, Custom Line, Galaxy XL, Thunderbird (2), Crown Victoria (2), and now the Fusion (2). They also canceled me when they bought Philco to form Philco-Ford and then shut the Philco-Ford computer division down.

The official documentation from Ford's supplier is less than that. http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

The 12 volt battery starts charging when the HVB charging is complete. If it is failing that fast it is probably bad or there is a load that is not turning off. You can't test a 12 volt wet cell lead acid battery with just a volt meter. The voltage needs to be measured with at least a 100 amp load on the battery. If the battery drops below 11 volts under a 100 amp load, you need a new battery. This makes it easy. https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BT-100-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B000AMBOI0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1532526759&sr=8-10&keywords=battery+tester If the battery dies the onboard clock stops. Select the clock display at top center and then do a GPS sync. If DST is in effect tap the + for the hour.

Yes, either EV mode requires that there be some charge in the battery. Note that there is only one battery. It is 7.6 kWh total. The top 5.6 kWh is used for EV only propulsion. The next 1.5 kWh is used for hybrid mode. The remaining 0.5 kWh is reserved to prevent complete discharge of the battery which would disable the car. There is no traditional starter motor for the Internal Combustion Engine (ICE). It is started using the High Voltage Battery (HVB) to run one of the high voltage electric motors. There is also no alternator. A DC to DC converter is used to convert 350 volts DC to around 14 or 15 volts DC to charge the 12 volt battery. It is physically impossible for the ICE to move the car in reverse. Only one of the electric motors can do that.

OBD readers can cause problems. It is impossible to run a Vehicle Health Report with anything connected to the OBD port. July 31, 2018 is the last day a VHR can be run. They are killing the feature.

The car uses a cellular data transceiver on the AT&T network to connect to the Ford servers. Do you have a strong AT&T signal in your garage?

I had my light ring replaced a couple of years ago for segment 2 being out. If the 12 volt battery needs charging it happens after the HVB is done charging. The text message is sent when the HVB is done. I think the light stays on while the 12 volt battery is being charged.

No matter what size or capability EVSE you connect to the car the car decides what the maximum current will be. At 120 volts it is 12 amps. At 240 volts it is 16 amps.

The computer knows how to take care of the engine. There is no correlation between engine RPM and vehicle speed. The computer sets the RPM at the most efficient point. Even with the engine running the car is being moved by the electric motor unless you floor it. Then the engine will drive the wheels directly. A little known fact is that it is physically impossible for the engine to move the car in reverse. Reverse can only be done with the electric motor.

Try not going above 45 mph in EV Now mode. High speed drains the battery in a hurry in EV Now mode. The air drag increases with the square of the velocity (speed). Use EV Now for driving through town. Use EV Later for highway use. A/C will reduce the range but not as much as heat will in the wintertime where I live in SE PA. This morning mine said I had 24 miles available. In the wintertime I am lucky if I get 10.

The battery is 7.6 kWh 1.5 kWh is reserved for hybrid mode. That is when EV goes to zero and the car is forced into hybrid mode. 0.5 kWh is reserved to prevent totally discharging the battery which would destroy it. That leaves 7.6 - 1.5 - 0.5 = 5.6 kWh available for EV mode at 72° F. Above or below that temperature the battery efficiency is less. At 72° I easily get the rated 21 miles. Below 32° I get about 10 miles. It doesn't get super hot (over 100°) here so I don't know what the derating is in that case.

Your car has a 7.6 kWh battery. https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North%20America/US/2015_Specs/2015_FusionEnergi_Specs.pdf

The battery is 7.6 kWh. 1.5 kWh is reserved for hybrid mode and 0.5 kWh is reserved to prevent total discharge which would kill the battery. That leaves 5.6 kWh for EV mode. Battery cooling air comes from the cabin. I think the idea was that if the driver was cool the battery would be cool. Do you have anything on the shelf behind the rear seats? The battery air intake is there and you don't want to block it. Battery efficiency is temperature dependent. It likes 72 degrees. When it is below freezing I get around 10 miles from the battery. It doesn't get that hot in PA although we just finished a week in the 90 degree range. Are you using recirculate mode for the A/C? At those high temperatures you don't want to be continually bringing super heated air in for the A/C to cool. Has your cabin air filter ever been changed? They do get dirty. I would not run without A/C at those temperatures. That would seem to be counterproductive. Measure the temperature of the air coming out of the A/C vents. Maybe the refrigerant is low due to a very small leak. The A/C compressor operates from a high voltage electric motor. The car may be running the engine to generate additional electricity to keep the A/C compressor at full speed. The car does use the engine and an electric motor at the same time to move the car so it is reasonable for the battery to go down while the engine is running. The battery can't be charged and discharged at the same time. If the battery is being used to move the car the engine can't charge it at the same time. The engine can provide direct drive to the wheels and generate electricity to turn the electric motor at the same time as the battery is providing energy to turn the electric motor. I am retired and my longest regular destination is 10.5 miles away. My engine hasn't run since early April.

For highway speeds use EV Later. Highway speeds will discharge the battery in a hurry. Air drag increases with the square of the velocity (speed).

I have never seen a programmable J1772 EVSE. Your mention of being able to reduce the max value is in line with how the J1772 spec works. The 40 amp EVSE I mentioned was made by Leviton and cost over $1000. That was highway robbery. The Tesla HPWC (high power wall connector) can be configured with dip switches to values up to 80 amps and costs around $500 and is 1/8 of the size of the Leviton. It can only be used with a Tesla because of the unique Tesla connector.

When the Energi indicates 0% the battery is not at 0%. That is where hybrid mode begins and the battery still has 1.5 kWh left. The car will never let the hybrid portion get anywhere near 0.. The HVB is used to start the engine, it does not have a traditional starter motor or an alternator for that matter. It is believed that when the battery is charged to 100% it is not the actual 100% but a lower value selected by the Ford engineers to be an artificial 100%. My car is over 5 years old and has always been charged to 100% and left to sit for a week or more. I still get the rated 21 miles in the summer time.

You can set an EVSE to any current that you want, that is just it telling the car what it is capable of. The car is not going to go any higher that 12 amps at 120 volts or 16 amps at 240 volts. An EVSE is not a charger, the charger is built into the car. An EVSE is basically a big contactor (relay) with logic to control the process. I have charged my car many times with an EVSE that is capable of 40 amps. It is a 240 volt only EVSE and the car uses 16 amps.

With the battery full regenerative braking is not possible. The ICE is operated like an air compressor to provide the back pressure to prevent the car from needing heavy braking in a downhill situation. No gas is being burned. It is a fuel injected engine so in this mode the injectors are turned off.

The J1772 spec requires it to step down if the EVSE communication interchange tells the car its max is less than 12. The only car I am aware of that allows the charge current to be specified in the car is a Tesla.

The car will use 12 amps at 120 volts and 16 amps at 240 volts. I've charged it on 240 volts with an EVSE capable of 40 amps and it uses 16 amps.

What size wire was used with the 20 amp breaker? Breakers are used to protect the wire, not the load. With a continuous load of 32 amps you need at least 8 gauge wire and a 40 amp breaker. Put in 6 gauge wire with a 50 amp breaker and a 14-50 outlet. That is a standard circuit. Adapters are available for whatever plug is on your Clipper Creek EVSE.

Be sure to get winter tires for all 4 wheels. Only the front tires drive the car but all 4 wheels are used to stop the car.

Do you have the plastic funnel for use in putting gas in the tank from a gas can?

The car must be in Park to start it. If the 12 volt battery is ok, put your foot on the brake pedal and shift it into Park. You can reset the car by disconnecting the negative 12 volt battery cable for 5 minutes. The engine will have to relearn its operating parameters but that is automatic.