murphy

The only way to do that is to measure what comes from the wall. The car doesn't know what came from the wall. My recollection is that 120 volt charging is about 70% efficient. 240 volt charging is around 80% efficient. Unlike a Kill-A-watt, the meter I referenced can't be reset and will retain its reading, in the absence of input power, for 10 years.

The easiest way is to buy an EKM meter and measure the energy that the car uses. https://www.ekmmetering.com/collections/electric-meters-kwh-meters/products/120-volt-pass-through-kwh-meter-2-wire-1-hot-1-neutral-50a-60hz-ekm-15ids is the 120 volt version. The 240 volt version is 25IDS.

I still have mine Jeff but I also have a Tesla for when I need to go more than 10.5 miles from home. John

It's always a game at car dealers. The one I hate the most is their claim that I need to change my oil every 3000 miles.

There are no options to increase the battery size, other than the current model added 4 miles to the range, and the car is being discontinued because not enough people are buying sedans. Apparently SUVs sell like hot cakes. I don't own an SUV and I don't want one.

They gave you a lower price on the car because they expect to make up the difference in the loan fees and interest. If you get the financing elsewhere you are paying cash as far as they are concerned.

Regenerative braking intensity in L can be modulated with the accelerator pedal. You have to learn how to do it but you have complete control over how fast you slow down. Foot off of the pedal is maximum braking. As you push the pedal braking decreases until you reach a point where there is no braking or acceleration. Pushing further begins acceleration. Training the muscle memory in your right foot as to where the "zero" point is takes some time.

The Energi uses a max of 240 volts 16 amps AC. A Tesla supercharger uses more than 400 volts DC at up to 120 kW which is around 250 amps DC. That would destroy the 7.6 kWh Energi battery in a flash. A Tesla can be charged from a standard J1772 EVSE. No Tesla EVSE provides charging via a J1772 connector. When destination charging is set up there may be standard J1772 EVSEs installed in addition to the Tesla EVSEs. It depends on what the owner of the property wants. EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). That's what came with your Energi. The charger is built into the car. Usage is light on the east coast except on holiday weekends. On the west coast lines are likely to form waiting to charge.

Unlikely. The car uses 16 amps. A dryer probably has a 6kW heating element which would be 25 amps. 25+16=41 which will instantly trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.

When looking for a Ford dealer to work on an Energi you need to find one that is electric certified. They are the only ones that are required to have people trained on how the Energi works.

The Owner's manual covers the Energi and the Hybrid. The Hybrid is 10,000 miles or 1 year. The Energi is 20,000 miles or 2 years. Most dealers have no clue what the specs are for these cars.

Go through the screens and see what the remaining oil life is. If they changed the oil but didn't reset it back to 100% the car doesn't know the oil was changed. Cold weather does make it more difficult. The battery efficiency drops with the temperature drop. Try a warm coat, steering wheel heat if it has it, otherwise warm gloves and the seat heater.on but the heat off. In electric mode the heat comes from a 5 kW resistance heater which will put a big dent in available mileage. Don't let them con you with the 3000 mile oil change. Oil changes are 20,000 miles or two years, whichever comes first. Until it turned cold here my engine hadn't run since April.

Gasoline older than 18 months will force the engine to run. Oil maintenance will force the engine to run. The fact that you were locked in AUTO sounds like one of these two. Did you precondition at 120 volts or 240 volts? 120 volts yields a maximum of 1440 watts 240 volts yields a maximum of 3840 watts. I never found preconditioning at 120 volts to be of much use when it is below freezing. Did you look at the graphic of the car on the center screen. The reason the engine is running is usually displayed there in my 2013. Did you get a screen in the dash asking you to push OK to allow the engine to run? I never OK that.

The Energi is a Fusion. It has already been stated that the Fusion line is dead. I doubt there will be any improvements to the Fusion. The Energi should have had its battery size doubled by now. See the 2018 Honda Clarity PHEV. It's rated at 47 miles. My friend has one and gets over 50 miles.

Why don't you want to run out of battery? That is the only way to get the car into hybrid mode. It's an automatic switch to hybrid. Ask your wife which is more important to her, comfort or efficiency? The phrase "Happy wife, happy life." applies here.

When it is below freezing my electric range is cut in half.

The battery is 7.6 kWh. Only 5.6 kWh of it is available for electric drive mode. Charging efficiency is around 80% so 5.6 / .8 = 7 kWh to charge. It looks like your electric rate is 1.40 / 21 = 7 cents CAD per kWh. 7 kWh * 0.07 = 0.49 CAD to charge the battery. I have 10 kW of PV solar panels on the roof of my house. In the summer my cost for electricity is about $0.008 US per kWh. That's $0.06 US to charge the battery.

The battery is 7.6 kWh. 5.6 kWh for electric only driving 1.5 kWh for hybrid mode 0.5 kWh reserved so battery can never be completely discharged. My electricity costs the same 24/7/365 so I have never tried to use value charge.

Is the car in a location where there is a good AT&T cell phone signal? Does the car appear in your https://owner.ford.com account? Does it also appear in your https://www.myfordmobile.com account?

Do you drive it every day? I'm retired and mine can sit for a week without being used. I replaced the wet cell lead acid battery with an AGM battery 6 months after I bought the car in 2013. There are a lot of microprocessors in the car that are always on. I hook up a smart battery charger that knows how to charge an AGM battery when the car has been sitting unused for a while. Use the terminals under the hood to avoid any chance of a spark setting off hydrogen that may have accumulated above the battery. That shouldn't happen since the battery is vented underneath the car but Murphy's Law always applies.

The clock is set from the GPS receiver. The modem is underneath the material that covers the area behind the rear seat back and above the metal panel. You can't see it from the trunk. It's apparently a big job to remove the trim pieces, without breaking them, to get access to it. Check fuse #10 to see if it is open. If it is flip it over and put it back in. It's a dual fuse and the other side (#11) is not used.

What is the 12 volt battery voltage. Measure it at the terminals under the hood or at the battery itself in the trunk. The voltage has to be high enough to pull in the contactors that connect the HVB to the car. Unless a cell in the battery has shorted out charging the battery should revive the car.

The car has a 5 kW resistance heater to provide cabin heat when in EV Only mode. Find a dealer that is certified to service electric vehicles. A non certified dealer probably thinks the car has an alternator and a starter motor. It doesn't have either one of those.

0% indicated SOC is not 0% SOC of the battery. The 0.5 kW protection area and the 1.5 kW hybrid area are both below that point.

You need a TPMS that is on the same frequency as the car's TPMS receiver. I don't know what brand Ford uses but it has the capability to send tire pressures to the computer. I can read out the tire pressures using a Scangauge II even though the 2013 does not support displaying the tire pressures. Lug nuts depend on the wheels. The winter tire wheels I have for my other car can not use the standard lug nuts. I got the wheels from Tire Rack and the lug nuts came with the wheels.