murphy

Mine only gets charged in my garage. The computer monitors the engine. If the gas gets too old, more than 18 months, it forces the engine to run until the tank is down to 1/8. It also monitors the oil and will force the engine to run if it needs to be run. Gas can last 18 months because the gas tank is pressurized. The button to open the gas door also depressurizes the tank. The car doesn't have a starter motor or an alternator. The engine is started by one of the high voltage motors. 12 volts comes from a DC to DC converter that runs off of the high voltage battery (HVB). My MPGe for 2018 was 71. 12.1 gallons of gas. For 2017 it was 80. 12.8 gallons of gas.

You are used to Otto cycle engines. An Atkinson cycle engine is a different beast. It's main job is to generate electricity to run the electric motor. Only in extreme circumstances does the engine drive the wheels directly.

There is no relation between RPM and vehicle speed. Forget everything you know about listening to an engine. The gas pedal tells the computer what you want. The computer controls the engine to an RPM that optimizes the operation. There is no "shifting". It's an eCVT transmission. It sets vehicle speed by the ratio between two electric motors and engine speed when the engine is running. The L position is not a gear change. It puts regenerative braking on the accelerator pedal. It takes some time to learn how to use that. Acceleration is provided by the electric motor, not the engine. As with all cars the faster you go the lower the gas mileage will be. Air drag increases with the square of the velocity (speed). Charge the battery. Mine is for local driving only. From late spring to early fall my engine doesn't run at all.

The build date for the car should be on a sticker in the driver's door frame. I haven't used the European site for years but go here www.etis.ford.com click on vehicle and enter your vin. It should show the build date. It will not identify the car as a Fusion since the Fusion is not sold in Europe.

The main warranty is 3 years or 36000 miles, whichever comes first if they haven't changed it from 2013. The hybrid unique components have a different (longer) warranty. Ohh you are in CA. It may be different there. Any chance you have the Monroney sticker (window sticker) for the car? It's on there.

1. Check the torsion bars in the trunk that support the trunk lid when it is open. There should be a rubber separator on them to prevent them from hitting each other and the underside of the package shelf. 2. Rear view mirror should not shake. Like all cars it is glued to the windshield. 3. Make sure the car is set to charge now and not to value charging. For value charging to work you must enter a schedule of your electric rates. 4. https://www.myfordmobile.com/content/mfm/app/site/login.html The app is called MyFord Mobile. I recommend that you do the setup from a computer before using the app. The original modem was for 2G service. AT&T shut 2G service down at the end of 2016. There is a free upgrade to a 3G modem if it hasn't already been done. The identifier for the modem can be found in the center screen. If the modem has been upgraded it starts with the letter T. Press the gear icon. Press the Help button. Press "System Information". Scroll to the bottom of the list. You are looking for: CPPM ESN: Txxxxxxx

Welcome aboard. They work great when the temperature is above 70° F. Turning the heater on puts a big dent in the electric range. I use my 2013 for local driving. The engine doesn't run from late spring through early fall.

The letter said parts available in 1st quarter of 2019. That gives them until March 31 to notify us of a delay.

The car originally had a 2G modem on the AT&T network. AT&T shut the 2G network down at the end of 2016. You need to get Ford to remove the 2G modem and install a 3G modem if the previous owner didn't bother to do it. It was free when my 2013 was done. I don't know if the replacement program had a time limit. IMHO the dealer should have done that before they sold the car to you.

The transmitter in the cell phone and the transmitter in the fob are on radically different frequencies (GHz vs MHz) and can't interfere with each other. The problem is when the transmitter in the cell phone is close to the fob causing it to severely overload the receive amplifier in the fob. The receiver in the fob is driven into saturation which makes it impossible for it to hear anything. Separating them into pockets on the opposite sides of your body is enough to solve the problem since radio signal strength drops with the square of the distance. It's a well known problem in the two way radio industry and there are several solutions but none of them are small enough to fit inside of a fob.

The transmitter in the cell phone overloads the receiver in the fob and it can't hear the car..

Make sure you go to an electric certified dealer. Standard dealers are not supposed to work on the car because they didn't get their people trained.

My 2013 Energi will be 6 years old in April. The only time it has been back to the dealer is for recalls and the required state safety and emissions inspections and the replacement of the light display on the left front fender because one of the four segments burned out.

The maximum current from a 120 volt 15 amp outlet is 15 amps. A continuous load must be derated to 80% which is 12 amps. The maximum current from a 120 volt 20 amp outlet is 20 amps. A continuous load must be derated to 80% which is 16 amps. The plug for a 120 volt 20 amp outlet is different. It has a horizontal neutral and a vertical hot. The Energi charger is limited to 12 amps at 120 volts. It is limited to 16 amps at 240 volts. That was most likely required to get UL approval.

The Energi battery is air cooled. The air intake is on the package shelf behind the rear seats. Don't put anything on the shelf that could block it.

The car already has an 8 year warranty on the hybrid unique components in the car. Do you have the Monroney sticker (window sticker) for the car. If not the dealer should be able to get you a copy. The warranties are listed on the sticker.

The trip meters are not full odometers. I think they roll over at 999.9 to 0. It might be 9999.9 but I don't think it is.

If what is happening doesn't feel right, take over. You are supposed to be in control of the car no matter what driver assists are available. A car crossing in front of you is not seen at all by the MobilEye chip in my 2013. A car that is in front of you and already stopped may not be seen in time, if at all, to stop before hitting it. Don't waste precious stopping time waiting for the car to figure it out because by the time it does it may be too late. Rule of thumb: If a car has a steering wheel and a brake pedal, it is NOT a self driving car.

Are you using the heater in electric only mode? Using the heater in EV only mode in the winter drops my range from 21 to 10 in spite of the range calculation saying 17 when I start out. I have never been to SF but the battery efficiency starts going down when the temperature is below 70 degrees. If you are using the heater try using GO times instead to warm the car before you leave and then using a warm coat and the seat heater to stay comfortable. Also don't drive above 45 mph in electric only mode. Wind resistance increases with the square of the velocity so the faster you go the higher the energy draw on the battery gets. The range display is a mathematical calculation. There is no known way to measure the energy in a LiIon battery. They keep track of what goes in and what comes out to compute an estimate of what is available. If your trip to work involves "freeway" driving use EV Only to get to the freeway, Then switch to EV Later while on the freeway. Finally switch back to EV Only when you leave the freeway. It will get better when the temperature stays above 75 degrees 24 hours a day.

"The local dealer says they are waiting for a replacement hybrid battery (warranteed), and that there just aren't any available." Is your dealer electric certified? A hybrid battery is 1.5 kWh and is for the hybrid version of the car. An Energi battery is 7.6 kWh. The wrong terminology leads me to think the dealer is not electric certified and shouldn't be working on the car. Ford has stated that the battery is supposed to last for the life of the car. Hopefully that doesn't mean that no spares were built. Mine is also a 2013 but I only use it for local driving and have not yet reached 10,000 miles.

A Tesla does not take 3 hours to charge at a supercharger. It's more like 30 to 45 minutes as long as you don't try to charge the battery to 100%. When I visit my brother, who is 270 miles away, I stop to charge once and visit the restroom while it is charging. I've been making that trip in a Tesla for 4 years. My Energi is used for trips to local stores. I bought 12 gallons of gasoline for the Energi last year mostly to keep it from getting stale in the tank.

The MX bluetooth is what I use. I have an inexpensive one that tends to corrupt the bus in the car.

You will need the Forscan app to display it. It's free if you use the Windows version. I think you have to pay for the Android and iOS versions. I don't remember being able to display it from the generic OBD apps and my Energi is 270 miles away at the moment so I can't verify.

It can be displayed using two key fobs. You have to memorize the procedure. It has to be done way too fast to read the steps as you go. In my 2013 the code is displayed in reverse order. I don'r know if they fixed it in later years. By reverse order I mean if the display is abcde, the actual code is edcba. It can also be found using an OBD II reader. It is unlikely that a dealer has a record of the code. The code is permanent in the hardware. It can't be changed. When I got my car the card was in a pocket of the case that held the owner's manual.

That is a MobilEye proprietary camera used for the lane holding feature or whatever it is called. The video does not come out of the chip so no you can't use it.