murphy

The manual is for the Hybrid and the Energi. The Hybrid is 10,000 miles / 1 year. The Energi is 20,000 miles / 2 years. That has been true since the introduction in 2013.

Use a high quality volt meter to measure the voltage at the battery terminals. The maximum charging voltage should be around 14.4 volts. Check the wires in the trunk just in front of the battery. You will have to look through the battery access door. There were reports of the wires rubbing on a sheet metal edge that caused battery drain problems. I encased mine in foam rubber to keep them away from the metal edge. Mine is a 2013. I would hope that this had been fixed in a 2017. If you drive the car every day you shouldn't have a problem. If you drive the car once a week you will have 12 volt battery problems. There are many always on microprocessors in the car that put a constant load on the 12 volt battery.

The part of the HVB that can be charged from the wall is 5.6 kWh. My 240 volt EVSE uses around 6.2kWh, measured coming from the wall, to charge the battery.

On 240 volts my car takes 2:05 to fully charge using a Leviton 240 volt 16 amp EVSE. My only worry is if there are any components in the supplied EVSE that aren't rated for the higher voltage. EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). The charger is built into the car.

60 degrees F is definitely a problem. Anything below 70 degrees F reduces the efficiency of the battery. The colder it gets the worse the range will be. If the heater is turned on the range will drop dramatically. When it gets below freezing I get about 10 miles from the battery. The range will return when the temperature minimum for a day gets above 70 degrees F.

Read your owner's manual. The Energi has a pressurized gas tank. The gas can last up to 18 months before the car will force burn it down to 1/8 of a tank. The manual does recommend a stabilizer if you are going to go more than a year (I think) without adding gas. If you are adding gas every couple of months there will not be a problem. The force burn can be stopped by adding fresh gas.

The 2010 to 2012 Fusion Hybrid batteries were NiMH. 2013 and later are Li-Ion.

If you are charging the HVb those numbers are meaningless. The configuration of the 2013 can be changed to display MPGe which takes gasoline and charging into account. If I was displaying mpg in the summertime it would be 999.9. That's because from late spring through early fall my engine doesn't run at all. 999.9 is basically infinity because miles are going on the car but zero gasoline is being used. Anything divided by zero is defined to be infinity.

In extreme cold, opening a door into the garage would allow warm air in which would have a much higher humidity. If it hits a cold area condensation can form. Are the cover plates for the outlets made of metal? If they are change them to plastic to see if that solves the problem. Condensation is not normally a conductor of electricity but it might be allowing a very small current to flow from the hot prong to the ground prong of the outlet. That is what the GFCI is looking for. Another test, assuming there is a door from the house directly into the garage, would be to not use that door to get into the garage but instead use the main garage door to get into the garage to see if that solves the problem. Opening the main garage door, or a man door that comes in from outside would let cold dry air into the garage instead of warm humid air.

It is possible that the Ford EVSE sends a small current through the ground connection to verify the ground connection exists. That is what a GFCI is designed to detect. None of my EVSEs are on a GFCI circuit and never will be. My refrigerator is also not on a GFCI circuit. See if the circuit you are using has any fluorescent lights connected to it. The spike coming from the ballast when the light is turned off will trip a GFCI.

That paragraph is called "Oil Maintenance Mode" in my 2013 manual.

It must be the cold. I don't use my engine at all from late spring through early fall and I have never seen that message. It has been years since I have seen a temperature below 0° F. The only two forced engine modes I am aware of are Oil Maintenance and old gasoline (more than 18 months) in the tank. I've never seen either one of those either. I think oil maintenance is to get rid of condensation in the oil. The old gasoline will run the engine until the tank is down to 1/8 of a tank. It can be stopped by putting some new gasoline into the tank.

I have another program that causes bus problems. I think it is transmitting as fast as it can without waiting for the bus to be clear which results in collisions. Back when the Vehicle Health Report was supported for my car it would not run if anything was connected to the bus.

That is a problem with almost any car that is computer controlled which means that it is never off. I solved the problem on my 2013 by replacing the factory supplied wet cell battery with an AGM battery. The only way I have found to prevent the problem is to connect a smart 12 volt battery charger to the jumper terminals under the hood when it will be parked for a long time.

I used the Windows version of Forscan (free) to enable the DRLs in my 2013 Fusion Energi after my dealer refused to do it. You need a high quality OBD reader to minimize bus interference. I use this one. https://www.scantool.net/obdlink-mxbt/

The battery usage for the Energi 7.6 kWh battery is 5.6 kWh electric mode 1.5 kWh hybrid mode 0.5 kWh battery and car protection The engine is started by the HVB. If the HVB was too low to start the engine the car would be dead.

Rain sensing has nothing to do with the wiper blades. Rain sensing is done by the rain sensor located in the assembly of electronic components in the housing behind the mirror. The part numbers for the wiper blades are in the Owner's Manual. The blades are not the same.

My fuel door looks different. I'll post some pictures. In the second picture the post is in the upper left corner of the door. The first picture shows the magnet on the underside of the end of the post.

There are two posts sticking out from the inside of the fuel door. The magnet is on the underside of the tip of the upper post. There appears to be a recess that it fits into. I don't known if orientation matters but if there is any residual glue on the magnet, that is the up direction.

In case you aren't aware the fuel tank of an Energi is pressurized. When you push the button to open the fuel door the system depressurizes the tank and then opens the door. When the door is closed the system pressurizes the tank. Attached is the wiring for the fuel door. Note that it has a motor to latch the door closed. EnergiFuel.PDF

AGM batteries maintain their voltage to a much lower state of charge (SOC) than a wet cell battery does. They also are not damaged by a low SOC like a wet cell battery is.

It doesn't fit in the glove box. It's an old Sears model that is quite large. My newer smaller one is in my other car. I should mention that in almost 6 years I have never had to use it. Within 6 months of buying the car I got rid of the supplied wet cell battery and installed an AGM battery. That involved modifying the battery tray with a hacksaw.

I do. It's in the trunk. There is a small rope tied to the emergency trunk release handle that runs up behind the right rear seat back so I can open the trunk if the 12 volt battery is completely dead. The 12 volt battery is used to close the contactors that connect the HVB to the car so without 12 volts the car is not going anywhere.

Yes. You can always delete it once it has done its job. I do that all of the time for things like appointments.

Set up a GO time for when you want to leave. Make sure the car is set to charge now and not to value charge.