blars

My 2014 FFE titanium had an msrp of 44.5k, price before tax credit of 37k, so 33k capitalized cost for my lease. I have all the options except for active park assist, adaptive cruise, heated steering, and cooled seats.

I think we're talking about two different things here. Christian said, "but if you only get credit if you owe taxes...", when you can get the credit regardless of whether you have to pay in at the end of the year or get a refund. dnorris68, it sounds like you changed your withholdings knowing that you'll have the $4k credit next year to cover paying in less over the course of the year. This would make no difference if your yearly federal taxes were under $4k. Also, you can be assessed a penalty if you have too little tax withheld throughout the year...I'm not sure if you avoid the penalty by being entitled to a tax credit or not.

It has nothing to do with what you owe/don't owe, it has to do with what your tax liability is. If I made 80k a year, and my fed taxes were 15k. Generally that 15k is supposed to come from with withholdings throughout the year. If I paid 16k through withholdings, and was due a 1k refund, I could still claim the $4k tax credit for a total refund of 5k. If I made 30k a year, and my fed taxes were 3k, regardless of how much I had paid already or not, I could not claim the entire 4k tax credit because my tax liability is only 3k.

For me, absolutely not...it has to make financial sense. Are you going to make up that $3k-$8k investment over the life of the car? I would certainly not. Those who have longer commutes, possibly. It comes down to how you justify gas savings/convenience vs cost.

I would wonder if it has something to do with the communication equipment in the car that is supposed to relay that information to the MFM servers. I've seen posts from others where their equipment needed to be updated and/or replaced.

The anti-lock brakes are intended to prevent the brakes from locking when braking suddenly, preventing skidding, thus giving you better control of the car...they shouldn't kick in under normal driving/braking conditions.

I've had it happen a few times in wet weather. It doesn't happen all the time...there seems to be a sweet spot for pressure on the brakes to prevent it from happening.

I've noticed the 74mph image also...every other time I've seen a speed limit image though, it has been correct. Agree on the maps being out of date, too...I can't type in my home address (even though it's almost 3 years old). Google had it up a few months after the house was built (even though it showed the wrong location when typing in the address), and the subsequent "marker move" request only took a few days.

Doesn't look like you read his other post or his blog...sounds like he has had quite the ordeal dealing with both the dealership and to some extent, Ford corporate. I would look up the lemon laws in your state. I know in Nebraska, it requires documentation (your blog may do) and notifying a specific department at Ford. You may have already done some of this legwork.

Welcome to the sub 500 mile check engine light club. From what other members (and myself) have experienced, TSB 13-12-17 seems to resolve the issue.

My check engine light came on around ~400 miles...TSB 13-12-17 was also applied to mine to fix the issue.

Curious on what current Energi owners thoughts are on a level 2 EVSE, especially for those that lease vs own. I am currently a fence-sitter as I lease and only occasionally do multiple small trips in a day. Not sure I can justify spending $500, especially when I'm leasing for 24 months. I do really like the car, and there is a good chance I'll buy out or upgrade to a newer PHEV at the end of my lease, but I'd be much more inclined to buy one if they were in the $200 range.

Purchased the car in 2014? Then you can't claim the tax credit on 2013 taxes.

There has to be other internals on the included ford charger...you can hear a "click" coming from the charger when you plug it into the car, and I doubt the click is from the light turning on.

I correct my previous statement...I looked this morning when I opened the door, and the light was red...who knew? My car was "Ready to drive"...don't know if that makes any difference.

I guess I haven't noticed, so I doubt it turns red on my 2014 Energi Titanium...I think I'd notice the light changing color upon opening the door.

Mine was definitely not coming from the seatbelts. I rode around in the back seat trying to pinpoint where the noise was coming from, but could not. Took it to the dealer, who had it for 4 days total, and they tore down the headliner, and padded different areas (they never told me exactly what was causing the main rattle). It does sound much better, but still some noises on rougher roads. Definitely better than the continuous rattle I had even on smooth roads under 30 mph before the fix.

I believe it has to be formatted in FAT...not NTFS.

You said vehicle locator, etc was crossed out...those options do not become available until registration is complete. Hence, you probably didn't complete the acknowledgement of the second in car prompt, which is why none of your mfm options work.

It is to do with heating. It is recommended to completely unwind so that the cable doesn't overheat. Extension cords are the same way...the more surface area the cord has, the cooler the cord will be. I have had extension cords get so hot as to have their jacket start to melt when driving something like a space heater with it not unwound.

I haven't tried, but its not your traditional transmission either.

Do you have the push-button start? Is it possible you pressed the button without your foot on the brake, so the car didn't actually turn on?

Wow...first in NE.

Anyone else getting annoying rattles from their FFEs? I took mine in last Friday for that and a check engine light. Check engine light was fixed, and I was told the main rattle was fixed, but to bring it back this week. Main rattle came back over the weekend, dropped my car off Tuesday morning, and its been there ever since. I asked for an update yesterday afternoon and was told "we've fixed 3-4 of them, but there's still a few to go". On top of that, the courtesy vehicle I got from them (a new 2014 non-hybrid) has annoying rattles also. For those wondering, these are not just occasional rattles on rough roads...they are constant rattles on smooth roads that I can hear over the soundsystem. I can't believe that I'm the only one if I've now driven 2 with the issue.

I was actually able to get my lease for very near what it would cost to buy the car outright with 0% interest (this figures in the $4k tax credit that is applied as a "dealer incentive" or whatever). You get told what the residual is at the end of the lease and it is a guaranteed price that you can pay for it. I got a 2 year lease as I wanted to try out the technology before committing to buying. In addition, if something newer/better comes out in that time frame, I can walk away from this car 2 years from now, no money out of pocket, and get into another brand new car. If you're leasing in the 2-3 year timeframe, you're almost always under the bumber-to-bumber warranty, so you don't have to worry about anything but regular maintenance (which for the FFE is minimal). Here's how my lease broke down: 60 month 0% interest deal buying outright: $38,176/60 = $636 monthly payments 2 yr/15,000 mi lease, ~$24,000 residual value/buyout $424 monthly payments = $10,176 over 2 years if buying out at no interest (you'll have to get a used car loan, so interest will be involved) 24,000 for 36mo @ 3% = $698 monthly payments $1088 saved with the lease in the first 2 years payments ($5088-$4k tax credit when buying). As far as taxes go, if you buy outright, you're usually paying sales tax on the entire sale price. With the lease, you're usually paying taxes on your lease payments, then if buying after the lease term is up, are paying sales tax on the residual/buyout price (this varies by state), so for me: Taxes for Buying $38,176 * .07 = $2672 total taxes when buying Taxes for Leasing $424 * .07 * 24 = $712 spread out over 24 months (~$30 per month) + $1680 if buying at end of lease = $2392 total taxes TOTAL BUY @ 0% interest: Payments (38,176) + Tax (2672) - Tax Credit (4000) = $36,848 TOTAL LEASE, BUYOUT @ 3% interest: Lease Payments (10,176) + Tax On Lease Payments (712) + Loan Payments (25128) + Loan Tax (1680) = 37696 Difference of $848 over a 5-year term (in favor of buying). I justify that additional expense by the following: - Smaller upfront expense (payments, taxes) - Smaller monthly payments for first 2 years of use - Ability to choose to own vehicle after 2 years of use (I've never owned a Ford, never owned a PHEV, so, I have an easy out if I don't like it) - First 2 years of use are covered by bumper-to-bumper warranty (Really only a benefit if I jump from one leased vehicle to another) - Potential for positive equity at end of lease