Kybuck

Assuming you've done the second confirmation, are you using Android or iPhone? And does the full functionality work on the MFT website?

The app is free, no monthly fee (the first ~5 years or something is included with the car, if I remember correctly). Looking at my PDF owner's manual (2014 model, dated Nov 2013, second printing), I see it in the "MyFord Touch" section. Searching for "GO Time" brings it up. Are you maybe looking at the plain Fusion manual instead of the Hybrid/Energi?

I'd personally prefer not to have a monthly fee on top of a $800 option (especially for something that is free on my existing smartphone). But then again, I didn't really want the navigation option but couldn't find an Energi on the lot without it.

Do you have anything specific in your state that distinguishes your vehicle as a plug-in hybrid (other than the factory "Energi" badging and the charge door)? If so, it probably is curiosity if they haven't seen a Fusion Energi before.

Before or after taxes and other fees? Purchase price (get $4k tax credit) or lease price ($4k tax credit already baked into price)?

I ordered the "Triple A" and installed it yesterday. It took a while to clean off the screen to my satisfaction prior to installing (I used the Klear Screen kit, plus compressed air to blow away any residual dust), but once it was clean, it installed without any problems. I wish it was just slightly larger to better cover edge-to-edge, but that would likely complicate installation. It doesn't seem to attract fingerprints as much as without the protector, and any that do show up have wiped off much easier than before.

It looks like your price is in line with the X-Plan pricing (supplier/partner discount) with current incentives, which isn't too bad (which is essentially what I paid for my 2014 SE in December). The biggest difference is that X-Plan caps the dealer documentation fees to $100. I'd at least see if they can lower the processing fees. Location was important, especially with the variability in sales tax in different states. Can you even order a 2014 anymore? I thought the window had passed, unless you're looking at a dealer transfer.

Where are you located? There appears to be at least some level of pricing variability depending on region.

I haven't verified if the USB slot is powered off (which could easily be tested with a phone charger), but it's safe to say the power consumption of a USB device that is plugged in (but not actively in read or write mode) is not going to drain the battery.

Unfortunately, this would require quite an infrastructure improvement - and a bit of a chicken or egg scenario (why build the infrastructure if cars don't have the feature, and why build/offer the feature if the roads don't exist yet). I think battery and/or high-speed charging technologies will evolve quicker than this technology could be implemented. I see a bigger market for having the option for a wireless charge in a garage at home, or in public parking spots. Those are much easier to implement - the vehicle isn't moving, and the vehicle side of the charger could be lowered into a charge mode position (distance between the coils is the worst enemy of these technologies). It also is easier to meter and easier to turn on/off. As an option for "opportunity charging", this may have a future, but I just don't see it taking off for long stretches of the highway. I've previously studied inductive power transfer, although the "resonance" part of this sounds like a slightly different spin on the same concept. The base technology itself isn't really that new, and has actually been used in a handful of auto manufacturing plants to move around partial vehicles or sub-systems for at least the last 10+ years.

I had a similar issue today... Conveniently enough, it happened at the dealer when I was picking up my car after having the TSB applied for the P2183 code issue. They handed me the keys, and as I walked up to the car, it wouldn't unlock with the fob. Fearing a dead battery, I manually used the key to unlock the drivers door. The touchscreen lit up so it didn't appear to be a battery issue. When I placed the ignition to "run" the car alarm went off and the display said "No Key Found" (as per my settings, I got the MFM text telling me the alarm was active). After a while, the horn turned off and the hazard lights kept blinking. Since this was in the dealer's driveway, I just walked back to the service department. They tried a few things (including attempting a jump in case it was a battery issue), to no avail. Eventually, they pushed it back into a service bay and had to "reprogram the key" to get it to work. Seems completely random, because I assume they moved the car once or twice after the other TSB was applied without any issues. As soon as I got home, I tried my other key, and it is still working fine. This has me a little concerned, because if it had happened anywhere other than the dealer would have been so much worse, because I don't routinely carry both keys with me. I'm hoping it was a one time fluke. Not sure if/how it's different that what others experienced in the past, but I have an SE, not the Titanium. So I can't just place my fob in the backup slot, because the key needs to be in the ignition for the car to move. GIven the TSB is from May 2013, and my car was built in August 2013, I'd hope that it doesn't need a software update. I don't know if that's something that can be looked up by VIN, but I also hope the dealer would have checked while it was there.

Based on my limited experience, I think the penalty only comes into play if you owe the money when filing taxes, and over a certain threshold. It may even need to be two years in a row. So assuming the withholdings are adjusted properly, I don't think you'd be subject to any sort of penalty. Given all the variables potentially involved (dual incomes, capital gains/losses, etc.), there's no way for the government to know that you've under paid and assess a penalty until you file your taxes. Then again, I'm not a tax professional or accountant, so please don't make any decisions based on my limited experience without further research and without consulting someone who actually deals with this subject for a living.

It's been a while, but my recollection is closer to 16-18 miles when going 70 on the freeway. That's typically with HVAC off though, if you're running the AC compressor or heater then 12 sounds more reasonable.

I just had my check engine light turn on yesterday... read code P2183. I'll have to schedule a trip to take it into the dealer, hopefully the TSB fixes it. I'll also have them replace the broken grab handle while I'm in there.

I didn't need to wait another 24 hours after clearing app data (unless you tried unregistering and re-registering the vehicle). If all those features work on the regular web version of MFM, they should work on the app once the data is cleared.

That is correct. You could try to subtract out the regen miles, but that is "only an estimate", and also includes regen miles in EV mode. I wish there was a straightforward way to display miles driven off of plug-in power (including regen when driving off of plug-in power).

I had a similar issue where options were crossed out on the Android app, even after completing the 24 hour confirmation. I think I went in and cleared the app data (uninstall/reinstall would probably do the same trick). The next time I opened the app and logged in, those options were no longer crossed out and worked properly.

My SE doesn't have HD radio, so it isn't just the HD radio causing the issue.

Like you, I didn't want nav, but there weren't any on the dealer's lot without nav, so I reluctantly got one with nav. Since I'm typically commuting, I've rarely used it. I haven't had very good luck with searching through the POIs either, at least when compared to Google maps my android smartphone. Since I use nav so rarely it wouldn't be a big deal to use my phone (that I always take with me) or even a portable Garmin that I only get out when I need it. My phone also shows traffic, and I tend to trust free Google maps over Sirius traffic (which will expire at some point). One somewhat interesting feature that seems to come with nav is that it will (sometimes) show the speed limit of the current road. But since I'm usually on known roads, it isn't that useful for me. If that feature integrated with the driving coach to not dock my "crusing" score when traveling the speed limit on the freeway, that'd be another plus. But as far as I can tell, it doesn't. To me, the navigation wasn't worth the cost. When comparing it to the other options, it isn't nearly as handy or as fairly priced as the minimal cost addition for the backup sensors and backup camera.

Doesn't sound like it contributed in your case, but sometimes it is better to refer to the tires as the "driver's" or "passenger's" side. Left and right could depend on whether you're in the driver's seat or looking at the car from the front.

My last car (GM) must have internally compensated or boosted the AM signal, because I'd switch from AM to FM all the time without a discernable difference. It's amazing how quickly we can get used to (or begin to expect) even the smallest features in a vehicle. May not notice it day-to-day, but as soon as you get in a vehicle that's different, it stands out so much.

2014 SE (i.e. non-Sony radio)... it seems the AM Radio is noticeably quieter than FM. I've tried multiple stations, and it seems to be consistent. I always have to turn the volume up when switching to AM and then back down when switching back to FM. Anyone else notice this?

I can't say that I ever look that closely at the wiper stalk while driving. Another way to think about it - moving the stalk up makes the wipers go more frequently, so rolling the intermittent selector upwards also increases the frequency. Up for faster / more often, down for slower / less often. It's at least consistent in that way.

For what it's worth, mine is working (and appears to be correct). For those having issues, have you tried taking trips using both keys? Just wondering if both keys need to be used in order to activate that feature. I think mine worked before I used both sets, but maybe the other set had been used at the factory or dealership before I took delivery and activated MFM. I remember switching sets because MFM showed my usage under key #2, and it shows key #1 was last used yesterday and key #2 was used a couple months ago (right before I switched which key was primary on my keychain).

My daily commute is ~50 miles round trip, with no charging at work. I still regularly get 22-25 miles on EV mode, meaning electricity can get me most of the way home (I use EV later on my way in to take better advantage of the EV during the lower speed commute home). Just as importantly (to me) the Energi gives me access to the HOV lane as a solo driver, which easily saves me 20-30 minutes on an average day. As others have stated, after Federal and CA discounts, there was little (if any) actual price difference between the Hybrid and Energi. I'm spending around 25% of what I used to spend on gas - half disappeared due to utilizing EV mode for almost half of my commute, and for most of my local errands on weekends. The other 25% was from the 40+ MPG in hybrid mode being twice what my previous car had. The hybrid MPG and Energi MPG likely don't actually differ by as much as the EPA numbers reflect. The Energi's MPG was determined by testing the CMax Energi, and the Fusion hybrid's testing was used to determine the CMax Hybrid's rating. FuelEconomy.gov estimates 1-2% MPG decrease per 100 lbs of weight. So somewhere between 3-6% difference, which is still less than the 8.5% EPA combined difference between the Hybrid and Energi. Based on other studies (this one actually simulated a previous generation Fusion), a 5% weight decrease is a 1.3% MPG improvement and a 10% weight decrease is only a 2.7% MPG improvement (slide 25/page 26). At ~3900 lb curb weight, the battery pack is ~7.7% of the Energi's weight. In the end, if you can get the Energi for the same approximate cost of the hybrid, and you can use EV mode for at least 25% of your driving, you should save money on "fuel" costs (electricity + gasoline). That's assuming average power costs below $0.25/kWh or so.