Kybuck

I was able to fit a standard Graco stroller, but I had to remove the wheels. So I had to keep a tool in the trunk so I could reattach the wheels at my destination, and then remove them again before heading home. I've also fit a Bob stroller in the back seat.

I can't manage to avoid scraping the front even with the stock suspension... typically on driveways.

Unfortunately, that's the reality of the "independent dealership" model. Many times, little things like this are beyond the manufacturer's control.

It's off centered on the 2014 too. I don't think the pic above is the current gen Fusion, the license plate lights don't match.

In my almost one year of ownership, my Fusion has relatively consistently under-reported the gas by 4% vs. the reading at the pump.

Did you do the 24 hour confirmation in your car? If so, clear the app data and log back in - that fixed the same problem for me.

Do you charge at level 1 (120V that came with the car) or level 2 (220V)? At level 1, the factor (per my average) is closer to ~1.45. How many miles did you drive? Regardless, the numbers don't seem to work out - assuming 4.14 gallons @ 187.7 MPG, it'd be 777 miles. 9.23 gallons equivalent @ 75.5 MPGe would be 697 miles.

I don't think there's an Energi version of the Mondeo. It's also worth noting that European power tends to be 50 Hz, not the 60 Hz that we have in the US. I don't see anything specific in the manual that specifically addresses the frequency. I'd recommend significant research prior to importing a US Energi into Europe. That being said, there are other EVs sold in Europe, so there's some hope that you could find a working charging solution.

Not exactly. MFM takes into account the electricity usage (not the cost of the electricity - just like normal MPG calculations take into account the fuel usage, not the cost of the fuel). Ignoring the electrical portion when stating a MPG value is, at the very least, misleading. It doesn't help people understand how these cars actually work. It's like saying any car can go 100 miles without using any gas from its tank... when it is being towed. Energy efficiency needs to take all of the fuel/energy sources into account. The car cannot typically go 100+ miles on a gallon of gas alone. It can go 100+ miles on a gallon of gas PLUS some electricity.

Not entirely true. NEC table 210.21(B)(3) allows a 50A receptacle on a 40A circuit (as far as I know, there is no such thing as a NEMA 40A receptacle). If someone decides to plug a 50A device into the plug in the future, the 40A breaker will trip and protect the wiring. The bigger concern would be if someone blindly replaces the 40A breaker with a 50A breaker (because it keeps tripping) without resizing the wiring, but they would be the ones causing non-compliance with the code.

I don't think SYNC is related to the lifetime summary. At least I was under the impression that SYNC more or less controls the right info display and the large MFT screen, but doesn't impact the left info display. Also, I found out from elsewhere that the 3.7 update was pulled due to issues with the .zip file. That explains why I could have sworn that I saw it a couple weeks back, but it wasn't there later when I had time and tried to download it.

I don't see the 3.7 update available for my 2014 either.

Compared to the ~century of research in power transmission, battery technology for electronics, etc. is relatively in its infancy still. There is a potential for small improvements in transmission, but not for a complete game changer. You could get around the need for larger wiring for the amperage by stepping up to a higher voltage, but that still won't get around the overall power transmission limitations. It would allow for lower amperage per charger, but would still be the same total load and would in any way help the infrastructure limitations. Power companies prefer consistent loads, not 15 minute ~100 Amp spikes. The only way I'd ever see this working for a car is if you have a separate capacitor / quick discharge battery (in a garage?) that you charge at normal rates throughout the day, and then it quickly discharges to charge the car quicker than the grid can support.

In my experience, you also can leave it in EV Later, and then "triple-click" the EV button (to cycle through the choices and back to EV Later) and it will update the saved % with the current battery level. It reduces the likelihood of accidentally leaving it in EV Now mode.

That's not how it works. The "88" number on the window stickers is the MPGe, which is Miles Per Gallon Equivalent. It is the equivalent efficiency of the electric drivetrain and has absolutely nothing to do with a ratio of EV to Gasoline. Here's how it's calculated: Energy density of one gallon of gasoline = 114,000 BTU Energy density of 1 kWH of electricity = 3,413 BTU Therefore, 33.4 kWH has the equivalent energy as one gallon of gasoline (114,000/3,413) 88 MPGe means the vehicle would travel 88 miles on 33.4 kWH of electricity.

Ethanol is less energy-dense than standard gasoline (about 33% less). However, excluding E85 (85% ethanol, which should only be used in certified vehicles - the FFE is not E85 compatible), you'll only really come across E10, and maybe E15. Even E15 is only 5% less energy dense than traditional gasoline (which, as mentioned above, is extremely difficult to find given government regulations around blending of renewable fuels).

I ran a VHR yesterday morning and this didn't come up. My car was built August 12, 2013, so it looks like it falls within the scope. I'll have to try another VHR and see if it flags it now.

I had a feeling my numbers may have been a little low. Regardless - if married, it's worth keeping in mind that most married couples have (at least) two cars, so having a combined income that's twice a single person's doesn't mean that you can automatically spend twice as much on a car - you can spend twice as much on the cars combined, which averages out to the same as a single person. The mortgage interest deduction helps, but the fact there is a mortgage payment likely means higher monthly expenses/payments. If there isn't a mortgage, then a plug in car may or may not work, since most apartment facilities don't have car charging infrastructure (nor do many rental houses, etc.). I'm in the same boat as you - per my life experiences and my personal preferences, the numbers don't add up. But as I mentioned in my first reply, I know there are likely exceptions that don't immediately come to mind.

First off, I realize there are always exceptions to every assumption/generalization. And I'm sure someone will be sure to point them out. The Energi models have a ~$4k tax credit. Assuming a ~15% base tax rate, an individual/family would need roughly $27k in income for the year to have paid $4k in taxes. The C-Max Energi (least expensive of the Energi models) starts at approximately $31,600, or $27,600 after the $4k rebate. An individual/family that has less than $27k in income should not be purchasing a car that costs more than their yearly income. Again, I realize there are sometimes exceptions and this is a bit of a generalization. Even assuming other deductions/credits, bumping the income up to $35k/year doesn't change the recommendation. The Focus Electric has a $7500 tax credit. Using the same base tax rate assumption, an individual/family would need roughly $50k in income for the year to have paid $7.5k in taxes (and using a higher tax rate leads to an even lower income). At a $35k base price ($27.5k after tax incentive), we're still talking >50% of the yearly income. Is the difference between a $27.5k Focus electric and a $17k base Focus going to ever really pay out in gas savings? Even assuming free electricity, that would require filling up approximately every other week for 10 years. And the difference is even worse if you consider the alternative of buying a used car (even just a year or two old) - quick searches show ~$13k for a 2013 base Focus - half the price of a new Focus Electric even after the tax credit. The choice isn't as black and white as "old gas guzzler or clean new EV". There are a multitude of options in between, and people need to look at all of those options and find the one that makes the most sense given their personal financial situation. In many cases, assuming they have an old gas guzzler, a lightly used fuel efficient vehicle could provide a significant benefit at the fraction of the cost of a brand new EV.

DMB Graphics used to make gel overlays that I think were officially licensed, but Ford didn't renew their license sometime around the middle of this year. I got a set that matches my sterling gray and they're nice quality. Unfortunately, I'm not aware of another company that makes a similar product, but there might be something on eBay.

anderson, is your car a 2013 or 2014? I'm curious, because it seems the failures are/were more prevalent in the 2013s and I'm not sure I've heard of any issues with the 2014s yet.

Charging a car every day does not count as "de minimus", at least in my book. Plugging in a 7.6 kWh car isn't anywhere near the same scale as plugging in a cell phone that is roughly 1/1000th the capacity. As a taxpayer in Southern California, I shouldn't be subsidizing your car charging if it isn't properly authorized by the county.

From the Owner's Manual: Note: If you switch autolamps on in conjunction with autowipers, your low beam headlamps will illuminate automatically when the rain sensor activates the windshield wipers continuously. I couldn't find a statement around the headlights turning on when the manual wipers are activated, though.

My car shows both of those too, and I received my check. The first one is the extended warranty for the Sync system (which was a separate letter from Ford a few months back).

The SE (for Energi models only) have the same tail lights as the TItanium. The right dash screen is configurable... I can do at least some of the climate functions on the right screen in my SE (fan speed and temperature, I think).