Rexracer

well thats just great, thanks. =\

Does anyone have the contact information for the Ford customer service rep that visits this forum? Is there still someone monitoring it?

Thanks

I had a similar issue early on. I took the car to the dealer, and there was a system update that fixed the issue, never had a problem since.

The Chrysler Pacifica with plug in Electric should be out soon, they are taking pre-orders currently. The amazing thing is that since it qualifies for the full $7500 tax rebate, the fully loaded platinum version is CHEAPER (by $10k) then the equivalent gas only version! Still not cheap at just under $40k (after rebate if you qualify) but still for 30 mile range, and 30mpg in normal hybrid operation thats impressive.

http://jalopnik.com/the-2017-chrysler-pacifica-hybrid-might-end-up-cheaper-1789043631

I wish there were a sensor to remind you that it's open before driving away. Wouldn't have taken much for Ford to do that. 

But why?

Your doors open, ok thats a problem.

Your charge door open? what harm is going to happen if its open?

Adding a sensor just adds cost and something else to fail.

There is a sensor if your still plugged in, thats a problem, the door being open? No issue at all.

ok ok, if you drive dirt roads all the time, and it was especially dusty, having the door closed could be a bit helpful.

How about a sensor on your sunroof if you forget to close it, when you walk away? That could be helpful. Sends you an automated text msg "Are you sure you want to leave your sunroof open? it could rain, or birds could poop in your car"

Hows this, for the cost of the sensor they could have just motorized the door, so if you put the car in drive, and its open, it automatically closes, if we are wasting money, why not that?

I forgot to come toss my 2cp onto this conversation. For Christmas I got

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BDXVW2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

and installed them. The base of them is so large i couldn't completely get the rubber seal back on, but I ended up duct taping everything back in to seal it back up, no on sees it, and only a problem if i drive up that deep into a river, then I have different problems.

Overall I think for the $50 they cost they were a nice upgrade, I like that they draw less power and are much whiter. Performance wise i would say they are 10-15% better, but I didnt have a problem with the stock ones.

The biggest problem is actually swapping them, this isn't pop the back off and change the bulb.

Not sure if anyone else has had this issue.

I did my first oil change on my 2013 (20k miles), and when I had the bottom cover off, noticed that not oil was there a oil leak from the back of the engine, but also a transmission leak.

Took the car to the dealer, and they ended up having to pull the tranny to do a repair, while they had it out, they had to replace the rear main seal as well. Looking at the work order, it looks like it had a TSB for the work, so its a known issue.

I never would have known i had a leak until I pulled the bottom cover off as it collected/absorbed all the fluid so it never came out from under the car.

So if you have someone else change the oil in your car, ask to see the cover once its out, if there are oil spots, talk to your dealer.

My passenger seat squeaked/creaked since the day I picked up the car. the first time in the shop, showed the service advisor, and then the next day when I picked it up, magically no noise and "nothing" done to the car. Though there was a loose bolt, and a mis-routed cable.

Just had my car in for a week to fix a transmission oil leak and oil leak, forgot to bring this up.

Getting to the heart of the issue, there is no lock on it, since people cant steel from it. Gas doors are locked to help dissuade people from trying to siphon gas from your car. Can thieves siphon electricity from your car? Nope. Water isn't an issue, so adding any type of lock just creates a nuisance and added cost.

90% of the time its open because you forgot to fully close it, the other 10% someone wondered what it is, close it and move on with life.

The honeycomb grill is only on the new top spec, Platinum line (over the Titanium).

LED lights are great and about time.

Its a mid cycle refresh, and they did a good job of making it look new/modern without expensive tooling re-costs.

This is really cool, very handy. I wish it also had the option to enter my eletric rate. I do time of use, so when I'm charging its only $.045 per kWh, so would like to know how that ads up.

Looks good, like the wheels for sure. needs to be lowered on the H&Rs to really have that "look" though. ;-)

2 years, 20k miles, I have not noticed any change in battery performance. I notice a BIG shift when it starts cooling off, cooler tempuratures for the battery, and using heat, but thats not the battery performance.

And i definitely do drive more aggressively now at times then before. I have a better sense of how much electric I will use that day, and if I know i have surplus, will drive more aggressively.

There is only a $4k cost difference, and if you can accept the 2015s wheels, really your only looking at a $2500 cost difference. The newer year and more options would likely push me toward the 2015.

Its a bit sad for us current owners how much the value of these cars has come. I wish I wasn't In need of a car when I got mine, as buying a used one for $21k would be fantastic today, and thats even with me getting 10k off MSRP PLUS the tax rebate.

have you had any problem scrapping the front more? I guess you didn't have the car long before lowering it so probably hard to say. I know i currently scrap on curbs/dips in driveways far more then I would like, but I also don't drive the car like its "lowered". Im far more careful with my Vette, because I know its low.

Tossing this out there, not that its a big problem for our cars as we don't use much braking.

But i tried this wheel cleaner for my track day corvette and was stunned at how good it worked to remove the iron deposits from the wheels. Expensive, but good for a every other type of cleaning.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UT3S6Q/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_03_t_img_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the reminder, i have been meaning to buy something.

I haven't tried this yet, but would thing Griots would be a good pick

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/handle-buy-box/ref=dp_start-bbf_1_glance

I disagree. We've owned both the FFH & the Energi and we see no difference in highway MPG. The EPA ratings for the Fusion Energi are actually from the C-Max Energi. When you compare C-Max Hybrid to C-Max Energi EPA ratings you see that the highway MPG difference is only 1 MPG (36 vs 37 MPG highway).

Interesting. I based my statement on the EPA rating, and my wifes Aunt/Uncle. They got a FFH and drove to Portland/Spokane and got 47/48 mpg, when I do that drive I get 40-42ish. Maybe the bigger difference is the actual driving as I wouldn't be surprised if I drive a bit quicker then they do...

And Troy, I would get the FFH simply because of the larger truck and cheaper purchase price, if i was doing primarily Highway.. ;-)

18k miles, still plenty of oil life left.

I was riding home today in 90+ degree Tampa heat and I said "I swear my back is getting HOT". To take subjectivity out of it I ran a test. The whistlepig (my Fusion) was fully charged and in a 31.5C ambient garage for 3 hours. I turned on the car and seat coolers and made sure the A/C vents were pointed away from the seats (although I probably should have turned it off), closed the doors, and let it run for 15 minutes with nobody in the seat.

 

The seat back does get warm from the cooler but not as hot as I thought it felt:

 

It does get pretty hot in the back, I saw temps over 45C at one point so maybe there's a chance that while sitting in the seat it can push against the thermoelectric module somehow?

 

I tried sitting in it for a couple minutes after the test and didn't feel any noticeable heat in my back. The FLIR also showed a pretty even heat distribution when I got up.

Oh man, best post i have ever seen, take all the subjective opinions out of it "i feel" "I think" "my brakes are loud" How loud? actual data, love it.

I certainly cannot. Although to be honest my last car, a 2015 Nissan Altima, could achieve 40+ mpg on single tanks in the right conditions, and 38-39 over a long trip. It also would get hammered by headwinds, down into the low 30's. But it couldn't ever achieve 50+ on a tank, let alone hit 40+ over the entirety of a long, high speed trip which this one was.

 

On a semi-regular basis I drive more backroads, eastern interstates, speeds under 70 mph, 50-60 on big secondaries, and I expect the Energi to do even better under those conditions.

Honestly, given your goal is good highway mpg, you should have gotten the hybrid and not paid extra for the Energi, or the weight penalty of carrying around the large battery all the time. The hybrid would get you another 3-8mpg on the highway.

Can't complain about that kind of performance from a car this size!

Took your suggestion and adjusted my comparisons.   I used a rating system that gave weight to the features that were important to my particular needs.  The Fusion and the Volt are really close in my rating system, which is why I'm going to definitely test drive both before making any decisions.   The Volt got an 86/100 and the Fusion got an 83/100 on my rating system.

 

I also compared the Focus as recommended by a few individuals on the forum because it might fit my needs.  The Focus was hard to compare because it is a BEV and it is hard to put a weight or score for having peace of mind for not worrying about have to do longer trips than you expect.  I had to re-do the rating system to adjust for the difference in the vehicles.  The Focus scored aboubt 10 points less than the Volt but it's probably a lot closer.   If I were to get the Focus, then the cost savings might make it possible for me to keep my existing vehicle (Rav4 with 150k) for longer trips. The money I save could also go toward maintaining both my vehicles, insurance, etc.   Decisions, decisions.....

 

I have a couple of months to sit on this information as I wait for my no obligation, pre-ordered Volt to arrive in mid October so that I can compare these vehicles with a test drive.

 

Anyway, I thought I'd share the revised spreadsheets in case you guys were interested.  Thanks again for the suggestion.

Good information to compile ahead of time. A couple things I noticed. The Fusion Hybrid/EV system has a  longer Warranty, I thought it was 10 year/100k mile warranty? Everyone, has that changed or do I just have the numbers wrong?

I also assume you plan to install a lV 2 charger, as you may not get the Volt battery full all the time without it (13 hour charge time on 110v). Add that into your costs

What do you mean by Battery Depredation?

Most importantly, I know this is subjective, but come on, The Volt looking BETTER then the Fusion?!?!? The Volt looks like a dressed up econo box, while the Fusion looks like an Aston Martin!!!! ;-)

Though giving 10 points to appearance while also giving cost only 10 points. I would have cost worth at least 20 points, and overall cost (purchase price, insurance cost, operating costs (fuel/electricity).

I don't remember what I said but the build date is usually 7 days after the date on the sticker.  You can get the actual build date by entering your VIN on the ETIS web site.

 

http://www.etis.ford.com

i don't see the build date. =\

My car must be on the lot for a while before delivery because the engine bay is very dirty with heavy layer of dust and oil stains on the engine cover.

New car? How does a car sitting on a lot get dust/oil on top of the engine? Driving it sure, wind blows it up there. And where did the oil come from? Do you mean a dealer applied "shine" that sat a long time attracting dust to it? I could see that happening.