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One more thing - invest in some dynamat (or a competetive equivalent), some Great Stuff expanding foam sealant, and caulk. The rear deck/trunk area rattled like nothing I've ever seen before going to work with these goods. How much Dynamat? I bought a 100sq ft roll of this stuff and still have a lot (probably > half) left. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GTMat-Pro-50mil-100sqft-Bulk-Pack-Car-Audio-Sound-Deadener-DynaTape-Roller-/121264439918?hash=item1c3bec826e:g:t~0AAOSw8-tWXhei&vxp=mtr

Cool! It sounds pretty good (still), but there is one improvement I really want to make. I'd like the subs to be in enclosures. The free air install is insanely strong with low frequencies and quickly cuts off. I'm worried that it might be the car's amp crossing over the signal though so I haven't touched anything. Anyhow, to answer your questions: 1. I assume you tied the power and ground directly to the small little 12V battery is this correct? This is correct, with one small detail missing. I installed an Optima yellow top battery as preventative maintenance for an unrelated problem - the dead battery issue you may have read about here. 2. I also assume you used the lighter socket for the accessory power? I didn't. The Precison Power unit I have doesn't use accessory power. It senses audio input and them does this nice soft on thing. That made installation a bit simpler as well. Another cool thing about the PPI unit, it has a remote output so that it can switch on my amp with this soft on. 3. How does your 12V battery handle the extra load? Pretty well, I've never had any problems with it, BUT I ditched the garbage Ford battery immediately after purchasing the car and dropped in the Optima yellow I mentioed before. 4. Any issues with lights dimming at full volume? Suprisingly no and I don't have a capacitor installed. 5. Did you notice a significant loss in EV range with the extra amp and processor? I don't although it surely has some small effect because the 12V battery would need more charge when it runs. One other thing, I remember thinking that I should have used a Precision Power amp because they have the soft power and signal processing circuitry built in. That would have been one less audio component in my trunk.

This may be relevant to those who are having similar troubles: SSM 32298 - 2013 C-MAX, Fusion/MKZ Hybrid/Energi - Possible Water Intrusion In ConnectorsSome 2013 C-MAX, Fusion/MKZ Hybrid/Energi vehicles may exhibit various drivability or electrical concerns accompanied by one or more diagnostic trouble codes, with the most common being P26C3, P26CA, P26D0, P2800, P2802, U019F and U0284. On C-MAX inspect connectors C134, C140, C144, C1651, C1717 and C1812 for signs of water entry/corrosion and service as necessary. On Fusion/MKZ inspect connectors C146, C1651, C1812 and C2251 and service as necessary.

Crazy Robot Car is fixed! Big props to the service department here in my little Southern Indiana town! The key to fixing this issue was that the car exhibited the symptoms for the service tech. It wouldn't "start" in the morning. They had to push it into their shop. After a lengthy search the tech found a wire in the transmission circuit with a pinhole in the insulation. It had corroded to the point that it was shorting. He repaired this wire and voila! It's impossible to tell how the insulation was compromised. Wiring harnesses arrive at the factory preassembled. If a roll of wire was damaged at the harness assembly plant, who knows how many other vehicles would be affected. For anyone interested in the solution, here is the description: #1 - D02: Engine would not start Customer states that vehicle would not start all morning. Called roadside assistance. After call customer tried to start vehicle again, and vehicle started. Customer stopped by shop to have vehicle checked for stored dtcs and inspected for issues. Caused by "Verified no start/movement. Wrench lamp is on. Perform self test multiple DTCs (U codes) and PCM DTC 2801. KOEO 2802, KOEO-SOBDM-C DTC 2800 KOEO. Check OASIS SSM#32298 could apply. (6P013). Removed engine undershield front. Removed front bumper cover lover cover (8349). Inspected conectors C146-C1651-C1812-C2251, found no water intrusion or corrosion. Shop manual pinpoint test A. A1-DTC P2800-P2801-P2802 YES. A2-11.8 Volts YES." "A4- Verify high resistance between C168C-7 and CN51-11-CIRCUIT#LET57. Test good from C175T to C1026-GOOD. Also from C168 to C146. Resistanec is between C146-C1026. Removed left inner wheel liner (16103). Found pinhole in white/green wire insulation near C146 above the connector (outside of it) corroded! Perform wiring repair. Retested. Verified repair. Repair location B2/BU."

Here is a video of what happens on the dash when the car dies and won't "start" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZenEAngxm6U&feature=youtu.be

"Hey that's one of them fancy plug in cars!"

The first time I took it in and they looked for dtcs but didn't find anything definitive. Hopefully this time is different. Dealer was closed by the time the tow arrived. I'll know more tomorrow I'm sure. This time I took a video of the error message barrage "See manual Check park aid Cross traffic system fault Press brake to start (very funny car) Run power active Collision warning not available Check Park aid Cross traffic system fault See manual" ...repeat from Run Power Active

OK that was too negative. On second thought I will let her drive it again once she passes a physical and is able to push it 30 feet up a slight incline!

Yep blinkers still worked, dash lit up, car would shift into Neutral (good for pushing). I suspect either a wiring fault or faulty module. I hate to think what would happen if this happened to my wife and kids. They will no longer be going anywhere in THIS car!

After being towed to the dealer; about 30 miles of rough riding guess what.... it started. GRRRRR! Intermittent issues are the most challenging to fix.

FOUND ON ROAD DEAD. One 2013 Fusion Energi. This thing died on me today in heavy, fast traffic. I thought I was a goner! Somehow with super human strength I managed to push its dead bulk across two lanes of fast traffic to the side of the road. Not fun. Good news... roadside assistance is on the way. SHAME ON FORD for implementing complete system shutdown as the failure mode. Between the internal combustion engine and/or partial electric power this vehicle should limp home or at least limp to the side of the road. My dealer appointment is tomorrow. I'll post what they find.

Here are some photos of my installation: Precision Power INT.5B signal processor (creates a low level signal from the factory sub outputs) Here is where the remote and factory sub wiring enters the Precision Power INT 5B. Not pictured is the harness containing the power and ground wires. Close up of the left rear 8" Infinity Reference sub. Pipe insulation is to keep the torsion bars from rattling. Foam is to fill the airspace. I figured that might help tighten the bass. These 8" subs really do the trick! I mounted the signal processor and amp on top of the HV battery. So far no issues. Note the "Great Stuff" expanding foam sealant in the cavity near the top of the picture. and..the other side. I've replaced my trunk light with a super bright LED panel, but retained the factory connector...hence the nasty glob of electrical tape near the top. I place 4" studio foam along the ridge to partition this shelf from the rest of the trunk.

Arghh! I traced the wiring and the factory manual is correct. The reason I thought otherwise was due to low lighting conditons. I had lost the white stripe on one of the speaker wires! So sorry for posting bs!

I have verified this.

It will be difficult if not impossible to test with a multi meter because the signal is a sine wave. The voltage will vary between positive and negative. It sounds like the addition of an external sub amp is critical to getting good low frequency sound. I will go verify this wiring right quick.

I just noticed your comment about unplugging one of the speakers. That's exactly how I discovered this. I unplugged a sub and was greeted with BASS! The sound system was one of my huge dislikes with this car. I really, really like this car now!

**Correction!** My car's wiring is/was correct. I replaced the factory 6x9s with those 8" subs. It was very easy to swap polarity because I had already cut the wires to the factory subs. I have the factory sub wiring going into my signal processor. Everything after that processor is new. Imagine my confusion after installing this stuff. I'm watching these subs bang out beats, but making very little noise. What I found was the polarity is backwards coming out of the factory amp. One sub is out of phase. I don't know which one, but the factory wiring diagram is wrong. To make the polarity switch easier I recommend removing the right-side panel and unwrapping some of the wiring harness starting at the amp. This will expose more of that sub's wire and make it easier to work with. You can always repair your work if it doesn't help. Also The results of this test will be diminished if you haven't disabled the active noise cancelling microphones. Let us know what happens (if you try). I think my car's OEM absence of bass was due to 1)active noise cancelling and 2)reversed polarity on one sub. I never got to see what the factory 6x9s sounded like when connected properly, having discovered this after installing everything. If this works be prepared to hear your car rattle like there's no tomorrow! (Stopping rattles has been a project of its own)

I don't think 10s will fit either. Maybe if you move the battery ducts. These fit after some cuts with the dremel tool: Infinity Reference 860w 8-Inch 1,000-Watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Single Voice Coil)

No after I had installed everything the bass was pathetic and wimpy. It didn't make sense. I started experimenting and switched polarity on the passenger side sub and WHAM!! BASS!! Switching polarity would require cutting and resplicing the wiring to the factory connector.

I'm taking the vehicle back next week for further diagnostics. I'll post if anything is found. For now the dielectric grease might have helped!

After lots of tracing and debugging the mechanic took apart the specified connectors and added dielectric grease. This will improve connectivity and help keep out water. Something in the tr circuit is the culprit but no definitive answer.

Deleted. Had posted incorrect info.

As long as the F and U hang on you're good to go!!

One additional note... this was my winter project this year and took a lot of time!

I've got 2 Infinity Reference 8" subs mounted in the rear deck. They are powered by a fosgate punch 100ix. I installed a signal processor between the factory Sony 'amp' and my sub amp to process the bass signal. I've got mb quart 6 1/2" 2 way components in each door. Those were direct replacements using the stock Sony speaker baskets for mounts (THIS DESTROYS THE STOCK SPEAKERS) I cut the wires to the 3 active noise canceling mics. Also had to use dynamat, expanding foam, and caulk to stop the rear deck from rattling. I've used 4" studio foam to decrease the air volume between the hv battery and rear and to loosely form an enclosure. It sounds very good. I can turn up the bass through the signal processor and shake the house door in it's frame. Not that I listen to music like that, but the potential is there!