JATR4

I have had both the FFH and FFE--currently FFE--and I will have a very hard time returning to a FFH. I love EV mode. But our driving habits are different than yours. Longest one-way trip about 25 mi four times a week with the rest short trips. With our driving habits we are getting about 60 MPG after adding in the cost of electricity. I pay $0.10 per kwh at all times which is relatively cheap.

That's what I meant to say, but I didn't have the knowledge to say it!

No. There is no engine braking on any automatic when in D or R. That is what the emergency brake is for. That is one reason to always use the emergency brake. I don't. Do as I say, not as I do. Try it on any automatic and it will roll on an incline unless the emergency brake is engaged or it is in P. The unique thing here is that with a key ignition you have to have the car in P in order to remove the key. The bush button start is different and takes a little getting used to. I am certain that there is nothing wrong with your car and that you had a blinking green light and not a steady green light. Unfortunately, your car was ON but not READY TO DRIVE--and you didn't realize that it was not ready to drive. Plus, you did not have the emergency brake on. You can go out to your car and check out what I have said. I did and found out that you could start the car in N as well as P. But for safety, it is better to use P.

You already have the answers to your problem. There is no engine braking when in R. That is what the emergency brake is for. Most likely you pushed the start button a split-second before you put your foot on the brake. You would have a blinking green light when you did this. The car is on but not ready to drive. You then put the car in R while you had your foot on the brake. The start button would still be blinking green. The car will not be ready to drive until you put the car in P (or N), put your foot on the brake, and push the start button again. When ready to drive the start button will be steady green--not blinking/flashing. I had a similar experience the first day I got my car--driven less than 40 miles. I was at my daughter's house and wanted to pair the home link with her hand-held remote. I drove about half a mile from her house so I wouldn't activate her garage door. It was pitch black, raining, and no street lights. During the pairing operation I pushed the start button and turned the engine off. I put my foot on the brake and pushed the start button but the car wouldn't start. There were no interior lights when I opened the door due to the settings, the owner's manual was on the counter at home, and I had no idea what was wrong. I kept putting my foot on the brake and pushing the start button to no avail. I tried to call the dealership but didn't have any luck. I also called Ford. Finally I figured it out. The car was in R or D when I turned the car off. When I finally put it in P and put my foot on the brake, I was able to start the car. I also had to put the emergency brake on to keep the car from moving. Moral of the story. You must put your foot on the brake before pushing the start button--if you want the car to be ready to drive. If you do it wrong, the start button will blink green. If you do it right, you will get a steady green light. There is no engine braking. Put the car in P or activate the parking brake to keep it from moving. On an incline the car will roll if it is not in P and/or the emergency brake is engaged. NOTE: The car will also start in N if your foot is on the brake.

"I'm not planning to purchase/order a vehicle without nav" What?

Here is what my tax program says when you check for errors on a return that has an override: "Using an override can prevent the cross-checking that's important to an accurate tax return."

I am assuming your return was e-filed. If so, the IRS calculated your refund based on the info provided. If your preparer had to override the amount calculated on the 8911 then the IRS program probably threw out the claim. If you have a printer that will scan your return so that you can attach it to an email, I will input your information into my tax program and see if I can find a problem. I will do this for free. I have no need for names, addresses or social security numbers. PM me if you have any interest. I read somewhere that these tax credit forms are getting extra scuitiny from the IRS.

If the return is filled out correctly, there shouldn't be a reason to override a line. Again, do you have a copy of your return? And I mean a copy of every page of the return. I have prepared taxes in the past and I always gave my clients a copy of their returns--every page.

Don't you have a copy of your tax return? You should. If you do then the answers may be on your return. The AMT is line 45 of form 1040. The TMT is line 33 of form 6251.

It doesn't matter what your tax bill is. What matters is what you paid in federal taxes--withholding and estimated. Was that amount more than $4,200?

Not working for me either.

Data point for those who have lost MyFordMobile connection: About two weks ago when I started the Energi the MFT screen was blank. This had never happened before. I shut off the car and restarted it with no success. Then a "sync update" appeared and afer the update the home screen came on. Everything appeared to be OK except when I logged on to my computer and/or my phone I had no connection to MyFordMobile. This went on for as many as 5 days. I decided to delete my account on MyFordMobile and reregister the vehicle. That is a 4-step process and the first two steps went smoothly. But when I got to step three I was supposed to get a message on the screen in my vehicle. I should have gotten an immediate response, taken the appropriate action and waited 24 hours for another message. I did not get the message in step 3 of the registration process. However, about three days later it appeared, I pressed allow (yesterday) and waited the next message to appear. It appeared today after the 24 hour wait period and I am now connected. Success. I sent a message to Kim on the FordIVTteam when I was stuck on step 3. I got a response that suggested I pull fuse #10, wait 3 minutes, reinstall the fuse and then reregister the account again. I actually tried to pull the fuse but I couldn't even find the panel that needed to be removed to access trhe fuse box. I read somewhere that you needed to be an acrobat to get to the fuse. So I gave up on the fuse pull. An alternative suggestion was to take it to the dealer and have them pull the fuse. I really didn't want to do that. The point is that deleting your account and waiting for the screen directions at step 3 of the registration process worked for me. It did take 2 or 3 days longer than expected but I finally got the vehicle registered and am connected to MyFordMobile. Kim, thanks for the help but time cured my problem.

PM sent.

No response from MyFordMobile for the last 4 or five days. No response on either my computer or cell phone. This coincides with an unusual occurrence when I started the vehicle. The screen was blank for a couple of minutes, then a "sync update" came on and the screen was normal after a few minutes. However, I have had no connection with the vehicle since that "sync".

MyFordMobile doesn't work any more.

My experience was that they don't keep the batteries charged so that a test drive is like a hybrid instead of an electric. Of the three Energis that I saw two had dead batteries meaning you couldn't even open the trunk. That included the one on the showroom floor.

I bought this Kill-A-Watt electricity monitor at Home Depot. Not a stock item but free pickup at the store. Gives an accurate measure of the electricity used to charge the car. Only drawback is it loses its settings if there is a power outage. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Kill-A-Watt-Electricity-Monitor-P4400/202196386#.UsrLBrSsT0k

Here is a cheap charger: Deleted!!!!! Moderator added: Users please use caution if you choose to click the above link, posts below indicate that it has suspicious content. Concur with comment below that the price listed for the GE Wattstation appears "too good to be true"...

This from Edmunds: "If a vehicle is being leased, the credit stays with the leasing company, which is the actual owner of the car or truck. In most cases, however, the tax credit has been factored into the cost of the lease, so the customer still benefits. Lease programs for the Chevrolet Volt and Nissan Leaf, for instance, include the $7,500 as a credit toward the down payment." http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/the-ins-and-outs-of-electric-vehicle-tax-credits.html

$300 not $330.

Had my 2013 FFE Titanium for 9 days. 1. 10 2. 2014 FFE (traded down to the 2013 Titanium) 3. Yes