JATR4

...I consciously started the car without my foot on the break and it started... No you didn't start the car. You turned the electronics on--that is all. You can't start the car without your foot on the brake and the gearshift in either park or neutral. You don't appear to know how to start the vehicle. Turning the key on does NOT start the vehicle unless the other requirements are met. You are turning the electronics on but not starting the vehicle. When the vehicle is properly started the ready to drive comes on. Many of us have turned the key before pressing on the brake pedal. The only indication this has happened is that the ready to drive light does not illuminate. The car does not start but since your foot is on the brake you can shift from park to another gear. But the vehicle has not started and the key has to be turned off and the gearshift returned to park (or neutral) before using the proper procedure to start the car. That is what happened in your videos. Operator error is the reason your car doesn't start.

You can't start the car unless your foot is on the BRAKE!!!!! And in order to start the car it must be in park or neutral--in addition to having your foot on the BRAKE. How can the car drive through the garage wall if the car is in park or neutral? It can't. I maintain that you don't know how to start/drive this vehicle. The vehicle has not started unless the ready to drive light shows up. You cannot start the vehicle in reverse or drive. Everything in your videos is normal because you don't understand how to properly start the vehicle!!!!!!!!!!!

You don't need an oil change. Run a vehicle health report and it will give you the oil life remaining percentage. This car can go 20K miles before an oil change is needed.

About a year ago one person on this forum was parked on a slope and "started" his FFE and it coasted into the garage wall. Turns out he didn't start the car because he turned the key before pushing on the brake. He put the car in reverse and and it coasted into the wall. The brakes don't respond well when the car isn't started. That is why you should always start the car in park and look for the ready to drive light. As Hybridbear stated it is operator error. My observation. There is nothing wrong with this car. You need to learn how to start the vehicle. Put your foot on the brake and then turn the key while the car is in park. It is really that simple.

"With a single onboard charger plugged into a standard 110-volt outlet, Tesla says you will get 5 miles of range for every hour of charging. From zero to 300 miles would take about 52 hours at that rate. With a single charger connected to a 240-volt outlet, which Tesla recommends, the pace speeds up to 31 miles of range for each hour of charging, and a full 300-mile charge takes less than 9.5 hours." It would take FOREVER to charge a Tesla with 120V. Take a lunch break. "Stop at a Tesla Supercharger station and you can top off the tank with 300 miles of range in just an hour." I have a 240V Clipper Creek and I would probably sell my FFET if I had to go back to the 120V charger.

You can't order it the way you want it. The moonroof with universal opener is approx $900. A replacement visor with universal opener is $411 here: http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?v=3FA6P0SU7DR271218&initSearch=1&keyword=VISOR#Search If the SE has the lighted visor mirrors then power is available and the replacement visor with remote might work. Not something I would do.

The garage door opener option only appears under the "moonroof" option so it appears that is the only way to get an opener.

Nice cars.

The form 8911 for the EVSE is apparently final. I was able to print my return today. The tax program denies printing of forms that are not final. Mailing my return tomorrow.

Yes. My cost of Clipper Creek and electrical installation was $811. 30% of that is $243--my credit.

I learned about this years ago on the Civic Hybrid forum. I was skeptical at first and only increased my pressure a couple of lbs at at time until I finally reached 44psi. The recommended psi on the HCH is 32. One of the reasons was the tires were low rolling resistance and were hard as a rock. The ride was slightly rougher at 44 psi but not too great for me. I went from 42mpg at 32 psi to as much as 48mpg at 44psi. Some of that gain was learning how to drive a hybrid. With the FFH I was able to get 46.2mpg for the time I had the vehicle--not great but not bad. There are many on the Civic forum and the FFH forum who use increased pressure--some even higher than 44psi. There are some on this forum who do also.

No abnormal wear. Steel belted radials sit flat across the tread unlike the older bias ply tires which bubble with added inflation. The tires are rated to 51psi so 44psi is certainly well within the recommended pressure range. And no chance of overheating or underinflation. Remember the problem with the Ford Explorer and Firestone tires in the 1990s? Ford decided to lower the recommended pressure to 26psi which led to possible overheating, tread separation and rollovers resulting in 250+ deaths. There were also problems with the Firestone tires and the Explorer design. The combination of poor vehicle design, under inflated tires along with tire defects led to numerous rollovers when the tires failed due to tread separation. The vehicle manufacturer wants a smooth soft ride which means a lower pressure and the tire manufacturers want a higher psi which would eliminate underinflation and overheating. I never use the vehicle manufacturer's tire pressure recommendations. If a vehicle has a recommended pressure of 36psi most of those vehicles will have underinflated tires since most drivers never check their tire pressure. After 10 years of doing this on a Jeep, a Ford SHO, a Maxima, a Honda HCHII, a Cruze, a Ford Escape and an FFH, I have had no adverse consequences with abnormal tire wear. With the FFH it made difference of 2-3 mpg. I don't think it is as noticeable on the FFE. I wouldn't be doing this if my tires were affected. If I lived where there was a large amount of snow/ice I would run a lower psi during that period of time. Since I have an AWD Escape to use in adverse weather I don't adjust the tire pressure in the FFE. The pressure may drop to 40 or even lower as the temperature gets to 32 deg or less. I don't add any additional pressure during the winter. I recently bought an Escape in Dallas and had them add extra pressure for the 1150 mile to NC. Here is an article that estimates a loss of 2.8 billion gallons of gas each year from underinflated tires: http://forums.trucktrend.com/70/6681028/off-topic-automotive/billions-of-gallons-of-gasoline-lost-due-to-underi/ That article is based on vehicle recommended pressures.

I've been running 44psi on all my vehicles for over ten years with no problems. With the temperature below 32 deg here that may drop to 40 or even below in the winter.

It is already in my 2014 tax program but the form 8911 is not final yet. As soon as the IRS updates their site the tax programs will make the form final.

Thanks for the info. I was unaware the charging station credit was renewed for 2014. Saved me $243. Whoopee!

Even with the update it shouldn't matter what the battery indicator says. If the battery is fully charged you should get a range based on how you drive. It could read 12 and you could get 25 or it could read 25 and you could get 12--or any number. Your range on a fully charged battery is dependent only on how you drive, what accessories you use, and the weather. It appears that the update erases previous memory but that shouldn't affect the actual range you get with a fully charged battery--even if the indicator is different than prior to the update. I expect the actual range of the battery to decrease--no idea how much--as the battery ages.

The battery indicator has no effect on the range you get when you or your wife actually drive the car. It is only an estimate based on past driving. If the battery is fully charged and indicates 19 you can still get a range of 30 depending on your driving. Conversely, if you drive like a bat-out-of-hell you may only get 10 miles before the battery is depleted--even if the battery indicated 19 when fully charged.

If you have the climate control on the estimated range will be reduced. Turn the climate control off and the display should return to 17. The display is only an estimate. It may indicate 17 miles but if you drive 85 mph you may only get 10 miles on a charge. Conversely, if you drive at 45 mph you may get 25 miles on a charge.

Your AC is still on. Read this thread and see if you can get vent only: http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/2174-using-vent-only-function/?hl=%2Bvent+%2Bfunction

I have the LCS-25P at $549. Paid about $150 to have the receptacle plug installed about one foot below my breaker panel.

Not enough income. Adjusted gross income of $30,000 generates a 2014 tax liability of $2,524 for a single person with one exemption. You might lose as much as $1,483 if your income is that low (4007 - 2524). A single person with only one exemption using the standard deduction would owe $4,025 based on adjusted gross income of $40,000. To get the entire credit you need $40K in income--more if married, etc. Certainly something to consider BEFORE purchasing the car.

Only difference between yours and mine is yhe driver assist package. Remember that the original window sticker is inflated by $4K over the 2014 and 2015 stickers.

If you post the vin number people will be able to see the window sticker.

Just got my second check today, $850 for the FFE. WHOOPEE!!!

Got my check for my 2014 FFH today--$775. Waiting on teh one for the FFE. Party time!