JATR4

3.8 is not for the 2013 model. Correction: 3.8 is for all models.

My buddy, who lives near San Diego, is going to Fremont on Tuesday for the grand unveiling of the new Tesla SUV. He was up there last month but was not allowed to see the new Vehicle. He did get a tour of the plant.

My mistake. The problem is you are in uncharted territory. There are not many on this forum with 50K miles on their FFE, and those that do most likely have an ESP. You don't have many options so the one you have may be your best bet. I have 16K on my 2013 and have 14 months left on the warranty. I plan on either getting an ESP from Flood Ford or selling the car. No way I would own this vehicle without some kind of warranty even though I haven't had any problems.

Oil changes are not required until 20,000 miles. I had mine done at 14,500 and it cost $17 with tire rotation. Listen to what Jeff said and look at the Flood Ford website. What you are considering paying is ridiculous.

Using the 120 cord supplied with the car is only 72% efficient. 8 X 0.72 = 5.8. As Hybridbear stated above the max you can charge is approximately 6.1. 5.8 is in the ballpark. Someone correct it I am wrong.

Your B is pretty high and your E is pretty low which makes your calculation very low. My numbers are: B 20 H 44 E 0.11 C 0.82 Calculates to $1.79. I am only paying $2 now so getting close.

I don't think the Tesla needs an EVSE. It comes with a Universal Mobile Connector that can be plugged into any 240 outlet. My buddy in CA just plugs his into the 240 wall outlet. http://shop.teslamotors.com/products/universal-mobile-connector-adapters

As stated above that is the efficiency calculation which is "C" in the calculation. Use 0.82 (L2) or 0.72 (L1). From above: "C = Charging efficiency. This should be 0.82 if you're using an L2 (220V) EVSE, 0.72 if you're using an L1 (120V) EVSE like the one included with the car, based on LarryH's measurements." The out of the wall values are approx 7.32 and 8.33.

Many of us play with the settings thinking we will get better range/mileage. In reality, I doubt that using settings other than AUTO will appreciable increase the range/mileage. But I will continue using different settings.

My buddy in CA has a Tesla the same color as yours. He also has panels and pays little to no electric bill. His other vehicle is a large Lexus but he is seriously considering the new Tesla SUV along with adding more panels. His Tesla is one of a kind. He originally ordered the 40kw battery but they never made any. He actually has the 60kw battery but Tesla limits his range--less than 140 mi--with software.

I just had my first oil change at 15,000+ miles because I had a coupon for the oil change and tire rotation for $17. No need to do it earlier.

I have a 2013 and the SD card is A4. There didn't seem to be significant changes in the A5 card. There are several A6 cards for sale on Ebay at a good price: http://www.ebay.com/sch/Car-GPS-Software-Maps/169364/bn_557869/i.html One is only $55 plus shipping. I would check here for details before buying: http://ford.navigation.com/product/Catalog/Catalog_Ford_Fusion_2013/U.S.-AND-CANADA-SYNC-NAVIGATION-SYSTEM-MAP-UPDATE-VERSION-A6/sku/FM5T-19H449-AA/en_US/FordNA/USD Buy and load at your own risk.

I had a 2014 FFH and traded for a 2013 FFE. You will find that even when driving in hybrid with the FFE it is different than the FFH.

Any details on your ESP? Does it matter when you purchase the ESP?

The federal credit is not a rebate. The federal tax credit plus state rebate would only be $5,507 for the Energi vs $9,000 for the Volt. And you have to have a corresponding tax liability to take advantage of the federal credit.

Here are a video of a 2013 cabin air filter change. This a fusion SE fusions but I assume the Energi is the same/similar.

Not sure any 40kw models of the sedan were ever built. My buddy ordered one but received the 60kw model instead. His car is limited to the 40kw range by TESLA using software.

Won't the blue line go above 20 mV if the vehicle is in EV later?

Couldn't see your pictures. Required to login to see them.

Pretty easy to figure your cost to charge a fully depleted battery. At 10 cents per kwh it costs approximately 75 cents to charge the battery. Just figure your cost based on your kwh price.

Mine is not a technical answer and is very simplistic. You can make your trip to work--20 mi--on the electric charge. Assuming your battery is depleted you can get 43 mpg on your return trip in hybrid mode, using less than half a gallon of gas. So, you have driven 40 miles and used less than a half gallon of gas. You do the math. But don't forget to account for the electricity to charge the battery at home.

Hokyfan, As Russael said, always come here first with any questions. There are some very knowledgeable people on this forum. Some indications that may seem abnormal are actually normal.

If you are on a trip that will eventually drain the HVB and you will eventually be in hybrid mode, you should consider running the AC when in EV later mode. That will maintain the battery level. I usually switch to EV later and then turn the AC on. If I want to use EV or EV auto I turn the AC off for a while.

They should be able to give you one from one of the cars in inventory. Contact Ford on this site: http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/user/568-fordivtteam/

As Hybridbear intimated you need to take the car/charger to the dealer. From all indications you have a bad EVSE.