JATR4

Cannot get my golf bag in the trunk of my FFE.

I love my 2013 FFE but... Just rented a 2016 Sonata SE in El Paso and returned it in Phoenix. Stops in Las Cruces and Tucson. Driven 75 mph+ on I-10. Got 36 mpg for 583 miles. At $2 per gallon for gasoline the $7,000 difference in price will get you over 100,000 miles (126,000 to be exact) along with lower personal property taxes on the Sonata. Adding a 240 EVSE will add another $800. Personally, I wouldn't have an FFE without 240 capability. You have a decision to make.

"... I put gas in it for the first time and fully charged the battery..." Is this the first time you charged the battery or just one of several charges?

Did the valet fail to turn the car off? If so, the ICE will run when the hybrid battery is fully depleted. The drop in battery range could be related to the car not being turned off since there is battery use with no mileage.

"...2) Gentle pressure on the brakes yields very high brake scores. I have taken to braking earlier (and gentler) when approaching a stop sign or a traffic light. I also find that letting up on the brake just before coming to a complete stop, and then pressing the brake yields brake scores reliably at or near 100%..." Try driving in LOW. You can avoid much braking and regen is great.

Appears Scribe lost 100% interest.

Based on the information you have furnished, no one can tell what you are talking about. 20% drop? How did you measure that?

Give us some info on your new vehicle.

If your MFM charge settings are OK, you could reset the system by disconnecting the 12 volt battery in the trunk. Will that work? Don't know, but it is a possibility. You may want to read this thread: http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/3880-myford-touch-charge-setting/

I used to live in Springfield, MO. This news about TESLA chargers there. "A new Macadoodles liquor store, Shell gas station and Tropical Smoothie Café are coming to north Springfield by fall 2016. It will include eight "Supercharger" stations for Tesla electric cars — Springfield's first, said Tim O'Reilly, managing member and CEO of O'Reilly Hospitality Management. O'Reilly's company will operate the development, located near the intersection of Glenstone Avenue and I-44 at 3050 N. Kentwood Ave." The chargers are just off Interstate 44.

"Ford paid nearly $200,000 for a Tesla Model X just so it could figure out what the electric car maker is hatching. Ford F -0.22% recently paid $199,950 to an individual who has bought and sold nearly a dozen Tesla TSLA -0.79% Model S vehicles. Perhaps most surprisingly, Ford paid about $55,000 more than the sticker price on the Model X just to get its hands on Tesla’s crossover." http://fortune.com/2016/04/20/ford-tesla-model-x/

My buddy in Fallbrook, CA has a Tesla sedan--not the S--and is awaiting delivery on a new model X. He will be adding more solar panels. The tech told him the efficiency has improved and he will only need 10 more panels to have zero electricity cost--including his AC and other home electrical costs. He has had zero electric costs for the past two years.

FFH? FFH = Hybrid FFE = Energi

Not exactly true. This is one of the most important steps in driving an Energi. On a push-button start Energi you need to step on the brake before pushing the start button--something we all know. But if you push the start button first and then step on the brake the electronics will start and you can be fooled into thinking the car has started. If you push on the brake after the electronics have started, the car gearshift can be moved to any position and yet the car has not started. If you are on an incline and the parking brake is off, the car will roll forward or backward and the brakes won't work--unless great force is applied--because the car has not started. The only way to start the car now is to move the gearshift to neutral or park, push on the brake, and then push the start button with the brake depressed. A few months back someone on this forum did the steps out of sequence and rolled into the wall of a parking garage since he had no brakes and the car had not started. He had pushed on the brake AFTER pushing the start button and put the car in reverse. He was unaware that the car had not started and the car rolled forward. He blamed the car when the problem was he did not completly understand the start sequence and the ramifications of not starting the vehicle properly. I consider how the start system works on this vehicle to be very important. It is very easy to do the steps out of sequence and not start the car. I have done it on multiple occasions but I have been able to recover without a mishap.

The real question is how fast are you driving? If you are driving 75mph, then 15-16 is pretty good. Since the car is more efficient at lower speeds, make sure you save some battery for the slower speed portion(s) of your trip. I take a 25 mile one-way trip several times a week and I drive 68 mph the majority of the trip. I usually use EV LATER on the outbound leg of the trip and use the heater/AC as necessary. Then I use EV or EV AUTO on the way back. If I need heat/AC I switch to EV LATER so I end up at home with zero charge on the battery.

Post details when you get it installed.

No need to go to a dealer. Use the provided above by Hybridbear or this one: http://researchmaniacs.com/VIN-Number-Lookup/WindowSticker/Ford.html

See post #3 above by Hybridbear and #4 by gladeplugin. A good estimate of how much you can charge a depleted battery is 5.8 kwh. Since the 120 volt charging cord is only 72% efficient you will use approx. 8 kwh from the wall outlet. 7.2 is certainly in the ballpark.

It might make sense to not use EV+ if you aren't going to charge after getting to the EV+ destination.

And if that doesn't work you can always sell the car. The car is working exactly as designed but you can't seem to accept that. Of course, you could dry your clothes and then plug the car in. Doesn't appear to be a real problem to me. There are many members on this forum who have real problems. You are not one of them.

Or you could figure out a way to not run the clothes dryer when you are charging your car.

Try this one. https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/keep-your-sync-up-to-date/report-software-version.html#/prepare

Is this what you are looking for? https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/sync-technology/sync/software-updates/how-to-check-your-sync-software-version.html

You might want to consider an ESP. Here is a link to Flood Ford's ESP plans. I just purchased one for my 2013 FFE. http://www.floodfordesp.com/?gclid=CNm3_5ny-sgCFVcSHwodtW8M3A

I have both a 2013 FFE and a 2014 Escape. The 3.8 update is available for the Escape. Unless there are great improvements I may not upload the 3.8 to the Escape or the FFE--assuming it is/becomes available for the FFE. Everything is working on both vehicles so I don't see any immediate need for an update. UPDATE: I installed 3.8 in both the 2014 Escape and the 2013 FFE. Ended up installing the update in the FFE first. I then removed the .XML file and used the same thumb drive to load the Escape. The .XML is generated during the installation process and is vehicle specific. The file contains the vin of the vehicle that is being loaded and is used to report the installation to Ford as a last step in the update.