JATR4

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The system reset seems to cure many problems. Similar to rebooting your laptop.

So I bought the jump starter battery pack as stated in the previous post. Since my battery will likely die in the near future (2013 FFE) I plan on carrying the jump starter in the trunk. But that won't do much good if I am away from home, the battery dies (or the key fob battery dies), and the car is locked. I need both a way to get into the vehicle and a way to open the trunk. My FFE has the push button start so no immediate way to get into the car. Here is a youtube video of how to access the emergency access key contained in the key fob: But once in the car I still can't access the trunk so I installed a piece of rope from the emergency trunk opener in the trunk through the back seat. Problem solved.

It happened to me today. Hadn't driven the Energi for about 10 days and the 12v battery was dead today. Tried using a trickle charger but didn't seem to work. Checked the internet and found this one at Harbor Freight Tools: 3-in-1 Portable Power Pack with Jump Starter by Cen-Tech (item 62376) Only $47.67 including tax. Worked immediately. Drove the car a few miles and then plugged it in to the 240 EVSE. Hopefully the 12v battery will be fully charged at the end of the cycle. Thanks to Murphy for the location of the negative terminal under the hood. The positive terminal has a red boot covering it and the negative terminal is 6 1/2 inches to the rear of the vehicle. The positive cable connection was a little tight but manageable. Now to install the rope to open the trunk in case of future failure. Will be expected since it is a 2013.

I sent a Groupon to my friend in CA for a cheap oil change. It was a joke since he doesn't use gas stations because he has a Model X and a Model S. He also has the roof panels. He actually doesn't charge the X at home since there is a super charger station where they can do some shopping and charge the X.

Dealers don't keep the cars charged. When I was buying my 2014 Hybrid I looked at an Energi on the showroon floor. I couldn'rt even get in the trunk because the 12 volt battery was dead. When the sticker price dropped $4,000 the dealer was unaware of the price drop and was quoting a price based on the original sticker price. There are many people on this forum who know more about the Energi than the salesmen at the dealerships.

So it's 11. How fast do you drive. Is the AC on? What mpg do you get in hybrid mode?

How fast do you drive? What mpg do you get in hybrid mode? Do you use the air conditioner?

The 12v battery is charged after the high voltage battery is charged. Are you allowing time for the 12v battery to charge? Did you just replace the 12v battery?

Member for 52+ years!

Does your download contain an .xml file? If so, does the title contain a vin number? If it does and that vin is not yours, just change the vin to yours and report to Ford. My .xml file is named "Sync_XR340VDX_(MY VIN NUMBER).xml" If you have the .xml file, change the .xml file name to include your vin and then report to Ford. P.S. When you download from Ford it generates an .xml file that contains the vin of the vehicle in the file name. Ira removed his .xml file since it only applied to his vehicle. I changed the name of my 2014 Escape .xml file to include the vin of my 2013 FFE and then reported the renamed .xml file to Ford. Worked for me.

I believe the file is in post #150 http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/10558-version-38-available/page-8 I remember that I could not get the Ford site to work for my 2013 FFE but had a 2014 Escape with the same equipment. Downloaded the file for the 2014 and used it for the 2013 FFE. To report the update to Ford had to change some info in the xml file--the vin--since it is vehicle specific. Reporting to Ford is not necessary and I don't remember changing the file except to change the vin of the vehicle. Report to Ford here: https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/keep-your-sync-up-to-date/report-software-version.html?step=prepare-sa#/prepare P.S. Checked my USB file and the only difference is that I have an xml file that is not in Ira's file. You get the xml file when downloading the file from Ford. I updated the 2013 first which required a vin change in the name of the xml file. After reporting to Ford I changed the vin in the xml file back to the Escape vin and updated the Escape and reported to Ford. The xml file appears to only be needed for reporting to Ford. IMPORTANT: From post #9 by jeff_h below: Use Internet Explorer when reporting to Ford. Firefox doesn't seem to eork.

There are 10 model year 2017s within 250 miles of St Louis on cars.com. https://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchresults.action/?zc=63101&rd=250&stkTypId=28880&yrId=30031936&mdId=53027&mkId=20015&sf1Nm=price&sf1Dir=DESC&sf2Nm=location&sf2Dir=ASC&page=1&perPage=50&sortFeatures=buryUsedLowPrice&sortFeatures=buryNewLowPrice&sortFeatures=buryLowPriceOlderThanSix&sortFeatures=buryNoPrice&sortFeatures=buryUsedLowMileage&searchSource=GN_REFINEMENT

Try disconnecting the 12 volt battery or removing and reinstalling fuse #10. Reset sometimes helps.

If you are driving 30,000 miles per year you will want an extended warranty since the original warranty is only for 36,000 miles. Check floodfordesp.com for pricing.

Murphy told you in post #2 above that the 120v cable is not adequate for warming the car. Software updates won't change the inadequacies of the 120v cable.

There is no hybrid battery. Probably charging the 12 volt battery after the big battery is finished charging.

The 120 cord is approximately 72% efficient and the 240 around 80%. If a full charge is 5.8kwh it would take 8kwh for the 120 and 7.25kwh for the 240.

Post back sometime with your mpg on the new Sonata.

I expect Ford will replace the battery or there will be a class action suit that remedies the situation. However, at current gas prices I am at the break-even point with respect to gas vs electricity. I could survive.

I drive the speed limit in town, 68 on the freeway. No idea how many charge cycles but overall 143 mpg for the 21,000+ miles so mostly EV driving. I usually charge after a trip since there is no value charging here. Don't pay attention to the bars but not a speeder or accelerator. I charge (240) when I need a charge. I don't usually charge late at night. Don't know the kwh used when switching to hybrid. My current tank of gas is 300 mpg for 700+ miles. Obviously mostly town driving at 45 mph. I use the AC and heater when needed. Have had two previous hybrids so am familiar with how to drive and brake for best performance. I usually drive in LOW in town if the battery has a charge. Even with the deterioration I don't have any complaints. Fully charged battery usually 20-22 mile range.

The $800 was for a 240 outlet installation plus an EVSE. The one you listed should do the trick. There are some threads on this forum about many of the EVSE units.

21,324

My battery is showing signs of deterioration so I depleted it yesterday so I could fully charge it and measure the results with a Kill A Watt meter. Had to use the OEM charger in order to measure the charge as the meter is for 120 volts only. Full charge was 6.22 kwh but with the 72% charging efficiency of the OEM cable that translates to 4.48 kwh for a full charge. Total charging time was only 4 hrs 41 minutes. Seems very low. 21,324 miles. Any comments?

Probably, if you remove the long clubs. Not interested in doing that myself. Have a car that I use for golf and dogs.