cgmartinez19

Only 159k? This is ridiculous. I might be poor and never buy brand new cars, but due to that I have 2 old BMWs, with my newest car being a 2016 FFE at 110K miles. 2005 Z4 BMW at 170K going strong, and another 2000 323i at 260K with transmission issues since 240K miles. I can reset the transmission with scanner, and the car keeps on driving. I thought I was buying a reliable car by switching to Ford lol.

Well no one mentioned anything. I guess Ford owners or maybe Fusion owners aren't as mechanically inclined as BMW owners when it comes to second hand vehicles, not purchased new as there appears to be not very good online communities about them. Anyways I helped my mom purchase a 2017 FFE and apparently it is a face lift model, and it appears came with factory LED. All I can say is good on Ford for having made a change and used bettery parts. The LED headlights on the 2017 are what I was expecting on my 2016 model after replacing the halogen bulbs with the LEDs. I'll still have to keep searching for replacement headlight assemblies that will work better with LED bulbs for my 2016 energi.

Visibility from stock bulbs and headlight assembly is horrible compared to my 2005 BMW with bi xenon headlights. Not just that, but I upgraded my wife’s 2017 Honda Civic from halogen to LED and work fantastic almost as good as my BMWs xenon’s. Since it’s the same bulb size as the FFE 16, I tried those same LED bulbs ans I would’ve thought the halogens are the original ones but nope, they’re pathetic in this car like less power is applied to them or the light does not get distributed properly. Looking online many others had similar complaints? Not sure so trying to get some input. I see there’s tons of aftermarket headlights now and some Mustang style ones too. Do any of them provide better light distribution?

Hello im new here from California, as I just got my first Ford and it’s a ffe 2016 about month and half ago. As I started having problems, I decided to post on the forums as there does not appear to be answers to my problems. I did see like one or two similar but with no solution. I so love the car and efficiency but it lacks many enthusiasts and forums compared to my BMWs. With my BMWs almost every single issue found during research and able to fix without problems. They are of course 1999-2005 so those do not have as many electronics as this plug in hybrid. If you’re able to help or point to right direction or provide any information, it’ll be greatly appreciated, thank you. The post is here

So I got a 2016 FFE used. Worked fine for about month. Before finally the hvac controls stopped working. The blue light around the panels were blinking like going on and off and not able to turn on heater/ac or turn up or down the radio. The screen still worked but could not change hvac controls either. I would be able to turn off the car and start back up and would work again. Finally I could no longer do that so I unplugged the low voltage I believe it’s 12V car battery in the trunk and plugged back in it started working again. The next day issue came back. Using a low cost scanner I got codes C0034 and C0031 and U3003 and U0401. Also U0164 stating lost communication to hvac control. First two said wheel speed sensors, while U3003 was listed as battery voltage and U0401 as invalid stats received from ECM/TCM. In engineering mode also one code I believe was related to violate when looked up. So I went to Orailey and replaced the battery as was the only place here I found with same size battery. The voltage issue went away and everything worked for about as week or two. The issue then came back. As I kept driving it, it progressively got worse. I lost controls to the passenger window and lock and unlock. That’s when I noticed also on the driver screen when I went to climate controls it would say temporarily lost communication. As I drove more, more codes came on found via fordscan. U0164, U0256, B1215, U0146, U0200. I believe more came on when I ran another scan the next day U0164, U0256, U0253, U0146, U0100, U0594, B00D5, U0415, U0452, U0557. The check engine light was one along with the restraint/airbag light. as I kept driving more issues according to codes came up. Since I couldn’t drive the car without being able to use the defrost, I unplugged the 12v and placed it on a charger for only 10 mins, voltage showed correctly at 14.4V so did not appear low and sticker dated showed as 9/22. After installing it was working fine again and no issues found as I had used fordscan to clear the codes before unplugging battery. All codes came back before unplugging battery. All codes are related to communication lost between modules from gateway/serial to hvac to dc inverter/converter and others according to descriptions. The inverter did have coolant at the minimum level but never received an overheating warning. Due to inverter being under warranty for 8 year/100,000 warranty I took into dealer. Since the problem was not there they said could not do anything for now. I checked codes again and some codes are up but not currently on. The dealer said they ran pressure test in cooling and found no issues. I did inform them that it was low but they told me it was not low. I know for a fact it was becasue i double checked yesterday before taking it in. There is some coolant around the edge of the reservoir and it was at the minimum mark. I pop up the hood after getting the car today and there is still coolant around the edge of the reservoir but the coolant is now at the maximum level but they said they did not top it off. I believe they’re lying about it because when the car was checked in they quoted $400, $200 for each issue issue 1) all the electronic/communication errors and 2) possible coolant leak. I said the inverter is under the 8 year/100,000 mile warranty but the advisor said it is not. I tried to tell them but they said no. I chatted with ford online and they said it is and I went back to the advisor and showed a picture of the inverter and said that is possibly leaking and covered under the warranty, she said it will be covered by ford not them but first they have to check it out. As far as I know if coolant is down it most likely means there’s an slow leak or an issue. Did they avoid trying to replace the part? Could possibly inverter problem cause all these electrical issues by not charging the 12v battery properly?