Philly Brian

Robert. My car is also affected by this problem. There is a looooong thread on this topic elsewhere in this forum. To find it, scroll down the subtitles until you find "Batteries & Charging". Open it and look for the discussion titled "Recall Issued: 2019-2020 Fusion Energi BECM Fire Risk". (It was near the top when I looked for it just a minute ago) Good luck!

I am confused by the "Auto" setting on the lighting control dial (2020 model year). On my prior vehicle (2004 Saturn Vue) I'd set it to "auto" and forget about it. It always displayed DRLs and, when dark outside, switched on the headlights. Never had to touch it. On the Fusion, I can't tell what is happening. I thought that, when I originally bot the car and the setting was on auto, that there was always a green icon (light) on the dash. I took this to mean that I had DRLs burning and that they were on. Now I rarely see any icon/light on the dash and I am questioning whether I was always seeing it after all. What I CAN conclude is that, when set to auto, the headlights WILL light when I go into a tunnel or into my garage. Otherwise, they are off. I was driving today and it was dark(ish) and raining. The lights did not come on automatically. I have been pondering this for a while and have noticed that many other cars seem to not have lighted headlights during the day. I am asking myself whether the laws have changed and that DRLs are no longer required. (I recall an editorial in Car & Driver written way back when DRLs were a new thing. The author noted that studies in Europe (where it started years earlier) showed that DRLs had NO EFFECT in preventing accidents. None!) Another thought I had is that, maybe, something is interfering with the sensor that communicates with the computer/module/whatever that controls the lights. Not a big thing really. But I guess my question is "Is my auto setting working as intended? Thanks.

I expected to see some commentary from others on this recall deal from Ford but don't see any. So I'll post this just in case Ford missed some of us out there. Ford mailed a letter that instructs one how to get a $250 check from them as a way to reimburse owners who can't/shouldn't charge their vehicles until they fix an issue. To offset the cost of gas they say. My check is "in the mail". If you have not rec'd a letter then maybe you need to contact Ford (Ford Customer Service Division). There is a deadline of 11/30/23.

My Fusion was sideswiped by some asshole passing me on the shoulder in a construction zone on I-95 in Philadelphia. The damage was quite minor. I decided to wait until the next morning to report it to the Philly PD. My mistake. It's a matter for the State Police. (Sorry. It's my first H&R and first ax on an interstate in 50+ years of driving) I called the nearest troop that afternoon. What they told me came as a complete surprise and I am wondering if anyone else would have also been surprised. Or whether I am just grossly ignorant of a rule/law that most people are aware of. BOTTOM LINE: They won't help me at all. Not one bit. Why? Because I had to report it ASAP. Getting the Lic tag info & make & model, the time & date and pointing out that I think there are PennDOT cameras focusing on this area? Sorry. Still not going to help. "You waited too long". End of story. Something tells me that if I had connections to the Governor, it would be handled differently. Allstate says I'm covered and they can research the name and the other party's insurance carrier. But so what? Allstate can't file against them without a police report. I see no way forward from here.

Since buying the FFE I have used a reflective sunshade from my prior car. It doesn't fit too well so I am looking into ones that claim to be an "exact fit". I have done some research on just how effective shades are the results surprised me. If placed on the INSIDE of the windshield they do little to lower the temp build-up inside the car. The sun's rays bounce from the shade to the inside of the windshield and make that surface super hot. That heat just travels to other areas of the car. The manufacturers claim to provide a cooler interior but they are probably lying. To be effective, you want to place the shield OUTSIDE the windshield. No one does this. (Some shades are designed for outside use and have extra wide sides that can extend past the a-pillar. You shut the door and the shade stays in place & can't be stolen). Bottom line, many feel that the shade doesn't do much except to keep the steering wheel from getting too hot to touch. Besides, since your car has rear & side windows - even if tinted - the sun is going to win. It will protect the plastic dash from UV rays. But so will a DASH COVER. I checked on e-bay and ones that are "exact fit" can be had in many colors for about $50 - which is about what a custom-fit shade will run you. The Dash Cover also prevents those reflections on the windshield that the sun causes. On my car, the reflection from the 'chrome' strip that runs along the glovebox lines up perfectly with the passenger-side rear view mirror and interferes with the ability to use the mirror. The covers I saw on e-bay would appear to eliminate this. So, unless other members here can change my mind, I'll be buying a Dash Cover soon. Maybe a shade too. If the shade truly is "custom fit", and rests tight against the inside surface, then it might be effective. Surely better than the ill-fitting one I have now.

This is a good thing to know. I looked up my VIN and my car is affected by it. So my question is: WHY HAVEN'T I RECEIVED A NOTCE FROM FORD?

It looks like I'll soon have a garage to plug in my car and charge it. Based on the pristine way that the cord was packed in the trunk I suspect the previous owner never used it. Based on my limited travel range, I feel like I could be one of those forum members who brags about filling the gas tank only twice a year or so. Should I have any concerns about plugging it in seeing as the car is now 3 years old, has 19K miles and has never been charged previously? Will the car signal me if something isn't right? (other than, maybe, smoking and catching fire!) Or that everything is okay or normal?

I might be having the same issue. When I back down my slightly-inclined driveway and begin to turn the wheel to position the car on the street, I often hear a thunk or maybe a deep booiinngg sound. It seems to be coming from the front wheel area on the driver's side. I think I hear it at other times too. Less than 20K miles on the car. Guess I should have it looked at.

I know this won't be helpful to you since you do not have a sunroof but maybe others will be enlightened as I was. I noticed lots of water in the footwells and the headliner on my 2004 Saturn Vue. The reason (I was told) is that the sunroof contains drainage tubes/lines to channel rainwater down to the underside of the vehicle. These can (and do) get clogged and will create the sort of problems you are having. Not that easy to unclog they say. I just duct taped over mine as I was soon selling the car.

While exiting the interstate I must have accidentally pressed the Start button while reaching for the air vent. Suddenly the dash lights started going dark and the message box to the left said (I think) "Car is Shutting Off". Luckily I was able to travel down the short ramp and pull over to safety to ponder what had just happened. I eventually pressed the Start button and things were back to normal. My question is: Would it have been OK to press the Start button while still moving at 45 mph?

So I am about to plug in and charge the HVB for the first time. The manual covers things pretty well and, while I had hoped it was as simple as plugging in a toaster, I understand that it isn't. According to the manual the outlet one plugs into should be a dedicated circuit. I suspect mine is not. At minimum it probably has 2-3 lights and maybe another outlet or two on the same circuit. Are any of the rest of you paying any attention to this when the manual says: "You must use a dedicated line ..."? Also in my garage is a 240v set-up for a clothes dryer that has never been used as the dryer is gas. The manual talks about an available 240v charging cable but many have told me they can't be found. Can they? Thanks Brian

I guess I have a SUPER FOB! I wrapped it in foil like it was a piece of saltwater taffy (several layers) and folded over the ends. I put it in my pants pocket and walked up to touch the handle - and it opened. It did not start the car this time. The next day, I did the same thing with the fob in my jacket pocket instead. It opened the door and started the car too. The foil seems to prevent someone from opening the door while the fob is inside my house. I guess this is good enough even though it's a little strange

So a quick search of the web reveled LOTS of postings on this topic. (Apparently, I am late in learning about certain things as usual). Most sites actually do recommend wrapping it in foil! They don't seem to think the signals the fob sends out are super powerful. Instead, they say the thieves are using signal boosting devices. I don't know. I seem to have a Super Fob. Alternatives to foil include: putting it in the microwave or fridge or buy something called a faraday bag to place it in. Meantime, both my fobs are now wrapped in foil. I will attempt to find a right-sized container that fits in my pocket, line it with foil and place the fob in it when not in use. Think about it. You could stop at a convenience store, lock the car and take the fob with you and - before you get to the store's door - someone could unlock the door, jump in, start it and drive off. In theory anyway. My advice to everyone is to check it yourself. Leave ur keys inside. go to where your car is parked and try to get in.

I am still new to the key fob since I am only 3-months into owning my 2020 Fusion. I have been locking/unlocking it by touching the door handle with the fob in my pocket. Today upon unlocking the door and getting inside I found (a) the glove box door hanging open (b) the place in the overhead console for sunglasses open and after pushing the Start button (c) both map lites in the overhead console to be on. Upon beginning to back out of my driveway a warning popped up to tell me that my passenger door was ajar. A friend tells me that - although my key fob was two floors above and about 20ft or so away - it was close enough that someone just walked up to the car, touched the handle and unlocked it! Further, if this person so desired, he could have pressed the Start button and driven away! This person was just looking for change it seems. The friend says he wraps his fob in foil at night to prevent this situation and recommends that I do the same. I checked the manual, and it claims that the fob needs to be within 3 feet of the handle for it to unlock the door. Seems this is not true. As a test, I left the fob in its normal place inside my home, walked down the many stairs and out to my car in the driveway, touched the door handle as usual AND THE DOOR OPENED. Soon after, I re-touched it in an effort to lock it. Wouldn't lock. I should have got in and tried pushing the Start button but didn't. Maybe another time. I still needed to lock the doors so, instead of climbing stairs, collecting the fob, etc., etc., etc., I pressed the button on the interior of the driver's door instead. This worked. I then intended to walk back inside and find some foil. But I just had to try opening the door again. I touched the handle but it remained locked. Tried every door with the same result. So it was back upstairs to check this forum to see what other posts may have been submitted on the topic of "Door Locks" or "Key Fob" or "Remote" or what-not. I found nothing covering long-range key fob signals and so forth. I am now thinking that, as a way to combat strangers from entering my car, I should lock it using the button on the interior since this seems to (somehow) prevent the key fob from working over a long distance. I just hope that, when I next try to open the door, having the fob very close to the handle or pressing the unlock button on it, will unlock it. Anyone else had experiences like these? Or had anyone suggest the use of tin foil?

The part came in and I went to get/install it Friday morning. Paint looked OK but no one was around to put it on for me. So I did it myself - shouldn't be hard to do. It snapped in place OK but it seemed quite crooked. The gap between it and the rest of the door handle started out very tight in the front and got wider towards the door. Tried to pop it off and give it another try. Couldn't do it. Thought I'd damage it if I put more effort into it. Finally a worker came out and helped. He managed to remove it and re-placed it. It was just as crooked-looking as when I had done it. He agreed that it SHOULD fit better but what-are-you-gonna-do? Quality isn't Job 1 anymore apparently. I may fiddle with it one day. Meantime if I see another Fusion in a parking lot I'll be checking how it looks on that car.

Thanks jsamp. I'll probably call the dealer soon. There is a large Ford dealership directly across the street from them. The color matching could be an issue since my 2020 car has the optional white metallic paint.

I recently purchased my 2020 Fusion at a major car dealership (but not a Ford dealer). On the driver's side front door, it was missing the piece that covers the keyhole. The sales agreement made note of it and specifies that they will contact me when one is found. They didn't feel it would be a difficult task. It has been a bit over a month and no word from them. I was wondering if any member has found a source for this part and, if so, could you provide me with the details? (I did a shallow dive into the internet but did not find what I need) Thanks.

Friday, I bought my 2020 FFE from a major new/used car dealership with many locations and many brands of cars. None of them Fords. I'll register it here soon. All of my prior purchases were from private sellers or small corner-lot dealers. I was happy to learn that the big guys can handle all of the registration and sales tax stuff and I'd have a license tag before leaving the lot. A huge surprise came when the salesman placed the final numbers in front of me. It was over $10K greater than the list price! Ok let's see. Sales tax, document fee and other small fees - these are all OK. But a warranty I never asked for? Plus two other who-knows-what-they-were charges and 'dealer prep'? I explained I was looking to buy the car and pay any associated costs but was not interested in any extras. So the warranty and the two 'who-knows' charges came off. This affected the overall sales price, so the sales tax got lowered too. I thought I was in good shape. FYI - they include a no-cost 6-month warranty and there are 5 months left on Ford's bumper-to-bumper so I guess the dealer's warranty is really only a month. I wonder what the other warranty they expected me to pay for covered. That leaves the dealer prep fee of $1,450. After trimming the other costs off the bill I guess I felt I'd done all that could be done. But $1,450 began to weigh on me. I went to the web and some sites seemed to feel that this cost can be negotiable too. Too late for me now I guess. So my regrets are as follows: (1) Not challenging the dealer prep amount. (2) Not downloading the CarFax report from the dealer's website while I had a chance. (3) Ditto for the Window Sticker. Anyone have any thoughts on Dealer Prep and what it might have entailed to justify charging ne $1,450? Or is it just and Add-On that dealers add based on, i don't know, what type of watch the buyer is wearing?

Test drove a 2020 Energi this morning. It was the precise model I thought that I wanted - even down to the colors. Price was fair. Only 15,700 miles. I wasn't looking at plug-in EVs but began to change my mind after being told that I didn't have to plug it in to a fossil fuel burning electrical grid if I didn't want to. I was warned about the smaller trunk but that's OK with me. I was told about the Energi being heavier that the Hybrid. Looked it up and found it to be a difference of 339 lbs. (4,034 vs 3,695) That seems like a significant difference to me. I pictured buying a Hybrid, loading 339 lbs of bricks into it and wondering what sort of affect it would have. Wouldn't improve things that's for sure! Would it increase wear & tear on tires? suspension? If so, would it be noticeable? Some pointed out that I'd have to charge the batteries all the time if I ever expected to drive under 100% electric power on some short errand. Wasn't looking to hear that. I thought normal driving would serve to recharge them. If not fully, then at least enough to better the mpg of the regular hybrid a little. All the listings rate the mpg as 43/41 for either model. Seems like Ford/EPA might have half-assed the figures on the heavier Energi. I certainly would not want to buy the Energi, never plug it in and get fewer mpg than the Regular Hybrid. But still, I thought that having the capability to drive totally electric was something good to have in the ole tool bag. I've read many posts here about people stretching a tank of gas for months. One said he fills the tank only two times per year. In my area of Philly, I might be able to do that also given how close-by shopping centers, etc. are located. I can't be certain, but it is likely that the electricity coming my house is from a gas-fired plant. Much cleaner than coal or oil but still a fossil fuel. So I am sleeping on it for now. But probably leaning towards buying it.

I was unfamiliar with either "over-discharge" or "bricking". I suspect most people are in the same boat as I am. The word needs to be spread and a good way to do so would be to have Schumacher and others spell it out in their instructions. I assume the Li-Ion batteries in the Fusion have some sort of built-in safeguards to prevent this. Right?

I'm a trespasser here and checking out this site while I debate buying a 2020 Energi Titanium I have my eye on. While this might not post until I register, I just had to chime in. I believe I have the same/similar device you are talking about. Mine is a Schumacker SL 1312 Jump Starter and Power Pack. I learned the hard way that, if allowed to completely run down, they cannot be re-charged. No way. Never. The instructions encourage you to plug 'em in and charge them up every 30 days to "prolong battery life". The Trouble-shooting section talks about what to do when you go to turn on the unit and the "on" lite just blinks and goes out immediately. The explanation/solution? You have "over-discharged" the battery. Plug it in and re-charge it. This just isn't true. Some of these posts make it look as though you placed your device in the car for months or years and it still worked? Really? Or are you just assuming it will be fine when you need to jump your battery? You might want to take it out and try turning it on to make sure. I used mine only once to start car and several times just for the flashlite. I contacted them to complain. Told them they needed to make it abundantly clear that you cannot under any circumstances allow it to completely run down (I guess this is what battery geeks call "over-discharge") because you'll now have a paperweight on your hands. They replied! Said they'd refer my email to the folks who write the instructions and to have a nice day.