Fat Fusion

My problem with that diagnosis is my battery never, ever goes low enough to warrant a deep cycle type battery. Since I've installed my 5 dollar volt meter in the outlet down in the front of the console I've seen it as low as 13.1 volts. Never below. Most of the time it's 14+.

Dang. Did you try to get Ford to just give you another one? That's a HUGE liability problem on a new car and sounds like the car could potentially repeat the problem. I've never had that problem. I haven't read any threads about others having that same problem either. Good luck with whatever you decide to do about it.

One thing I'll point out is there are LOTS of people driving who's vision is no where near the avg person's vision. Whether or not they should be driving is a topic for another day, but the fact of the matter is there's millions of people out there with suspect vision. I used to work with a guy who's step father used to drive to KS or somewhere in the midwest to get his eye medication- from the west coast and the story was he could hardly see. I'll take my chances with DRL's over nothing, especially in a gray car. Where I think you'd see the most benefit is in the rain where people aren't smart enough to turn on their headlights.

I'd plug in and beg for forgiveness later... Our parking structure had the same "problem" and they put little locks on all the outlets. They then installed BLINK NETWORK charging stations.

Since my car is gray, just like the road surface, I run either running or head lights at all times. I've totaled two cars due to other people's failures. I would rather not push my luck on # 3.

Be careful of your priorities, Hybridbear. I've totaled two cars timing lights at intersections. Both times I timed it right, and both times the other person didn't. Nothing like seeing another car bearing down on your driver's door at high speed.

I had a plastics class in college. The professor told us the "new car smell" is the mold release compound for all the plastic pieces.

Or option #4, charge for two hours at work (assuming it's L2) if you're consuming that much electricity. It'll give you 85-90% charge for a buck.

Forgot to add the link I was going to throw in there... :banghead: http://www.carcharging.com/about/news/all/carcharging-introduces-new-pricing-policies-enhances-functionality-blink-network/

First of all, impressive # of fill ups on the Acura! :clapping: I think I'm going to stop charging at work on the Blink Network based on the new rates. I was charged 49 cents/KWH today instead of the usual buck an hour. Seems like the deal is getting even worse for the cars that can charge faster. :spend: It's not going to be a huge deal for me since I do a fair amount of 75 MPH freeway driving to and from work with just the right amount of stop-n-go and around town at lunch to use my one charge fairly effectively.

I have three friends that have Energi's and likely would not have bought them if it wasn't for me.

It really makes the electric side of the car a lot more practical. I've done 4 full charges in one day several times.

Maybe go to a tint shop and get some "clear bra" material put on.

I really did LOL when I read this. I find it hilarious that you are keeping a Prius to haul things, but I imagine you have some long drives up there!

Hey Ben, Is this the one you got? http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C12091.html Andy

I noticed today that there is a big difference in wind noise depending on if I have the sun shade closed or not. Are you guys saying that as you drive down the road, when you open and close the sun shade the noise does not change for you? In my case there is wind noise when the shade is open, and no wind noise when the shade is closed.

I charge for two hours four or five times a week at work. It's probably a wash with the cost of gas but I'd rather pay the local utility than big oil and sending dollars overseas.

I noticed the same thing today.

I think it depends on when you drive your car. If you drive during the day then you'd want to "bank" the solar power in the grid and draw it at night to charge. If you drive at night I suppose you could go direct to the car. You have plenty of light there in Gilroy that's for sure. My friend recently put a home system on his roof in San Martin and is power neutral, so I plug in when I go there. :woot:

My guess is they'll fix it.

Awesome! I was going to recommend finding what you want to begin with. After using my backup camera I don't think I'll ever buy another car without it. Trying to figure out the best way to get that functionality in the Boss 302 now. Probably go with an aftermarket radio/display. I think it's Kenwood who has one that interfaces with the TPMS, probably with it's own sensors, that displays tire pressure on the screen for each one. Handy in a track car.

Dang. Just Dang. How's the solar situation? I was at a friends on Sun who never pays an electric bill so I just plugged in. I don't ever do that away from home but hey if it's free...

I have a friend who bought a volt. He HATES it. But, hey his other cars are an AMG Merc and a SRT8 Cherokee. I'd hate the volt too if I had those beasts to drive. His commute is pretty brutal though.

Good info, thanks Larry!

It's a small 12v battery. Let's say for the sake of argument that it is DOWN to 80%. It can't take more than about 20 mins to charge it back to 100% can it? IMO the little 12v voltage meter I have plugged into my dash is indispensable. Mine shows in the 14v range most of the time driving so I suspect there is very very little charging to the 12v battery when plugged in. FWIW my fans do not run unless the HVB is actually charging at the time. Rexracer- When it's set on VALUE CHARGE, and it's plugged in prior to that time, does it say CHARGING or does it say WAITING TO CHARGE? The reason I ask is mine has the same bug that confuses when the value charge is and when it's on value charge. It displays incorrectly, but acts correctly.