CaliGiant

My inverter coolant looks like a weird color too. Its a lot light than the engine coolant. Maybe thats because the electrical coolant hardly gets hot compared to the NA engine coolant. I thought it was all on the same system though but anyways. I tried to replace my fluid a couple months ago as it's getting to be that time but I had trouble getting the petcock to unplug. It was stiff as heck. I couldn't do it by hand but was barely able to turn it with pliers so I folded a paper towel and prayed it didn't break. It turned exactly 1/4 turn and stopped where it seemed it should but nothing. It tried turning it a but more, pulling it out, working it back and forth a bit and still nothing. I didn't feel like taking off the hose because there are two pretty expensive systems to worry about and don't want to damage something by getting air trapped in there. Has anybody had trouble or a solution in dealing with the petcocks? John, you said that the system automatically burps itself. Did the AllData say that? If that's the case i think I might just try to drain it through the bottom hose but I'm just hesitant on doing things that I'm not sure about. I learned the hard way in the early 2000s when I changed the coolant on my new Chrysler 300m and didn't realize there was a bleeder valve. I ended up overheating once every year or two, changing thermostats and eventually punctured the head gasket. I still got almost 200k on that car but looking back i realize that is why I kept over heating once a year or two. Eventually on a hot August day it gave up totally but I learned my lesson.

I don't know if its your problem or not but I had a loose top mounting nut on one of my rear shocks. It would pop or click every time i went over a bump and was tough to tell where it was coming from. Because it almost sounded like it was coming from inside the car or trunk. When i found it I could literally twist the top of the shock and nut with my fingers. I figured it was the shocks and mounts so I ordered $300 worth of parts for both sides since I figured i had 170k miles and the weight of that heavy battery back there must be wearing those out. Shocks were like $70 each and mounts were like $60 or so. After I took it apart I found out that it was a loose nut from the factory. I could have just tightened it with a wrench on the nut and vice grips to hold the top of the shock that is above the mount. I ended up just replacing the shocks anyway but the funny thing is the factory mounts that were 7 or 8 years old and had 170k miles were actually stronger than the replacements. I could have fixed it in 3 minutes. I've read other places that the factory in Mexico has had issues with tightening bolts down to specs. Another place that has had issues was the bolts not being torqued correctly on the engine and between the motor and tranny.