meyersnole

This is actually a pretty common question and is in the FAQ. Welcome to the forum gtca! In the Welcome Forum: http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/3040-faq-need-help/?p=19568

At least on the 2013 model it only gives the generic message. Something I miss from my previous car. It also will let the tire pressure drop pretty significantly before signalling low pressure. Probably a good idea to check your tires manually from time to time. From the manual: Low Tire Pressure WarningIt will illuminate when your tirepressure is low. If the lampremains on with the enginerunning or when driving, checkyour tire pressure as soon as possible.It will also illuminate momentarily whenyou switch the ignition on to confirm thelamp is functional. If it does not illuminatewhen you switch the ignition on, or beginsto flash at any time, have the systemchecked by your authorized dealer. You can get the exact information from an OBD reader as discussed here: http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/3102-obd-tire-pressures-and-oil-life/?p=20077

Once you read a topic, it should look different (not bolded) letting you know that you have already read that topic. If someone posts in that topic again, then it will appear bold again. Refresh the page (press F5) to show which topics you have read. I will click on the the Red Fusion up top to take me back to the main list of topics at times, and it will also refresh the page. I might not understand what you are requesting though.

Never had this issue, probably time to take a trip to the dealer to check it out. Now, have I ever reached my destination and found the door open... um... yes, but not because it came open, it is because I forgot to close it!

Hello Family Energi and welcome to the forum. This is common practice from all of the cars I have driven for some time (BMW, Acura, Nissan, ....). Even though it says empty or zero range, you still have some fuel left in the tank. Some cars will not let the tank go completely dry and shut off (always past the E/range of 0). I have heard that it is harmful to run a tank dry (but never heard anyone of authority back that up), I think it has something to do with running the gas pump empty can cause it to overheat and fail. Other explanation is that the buffer is there to take some of the anxiety out of trying to find a gas station when that light comes on unexpectedly and you are in the middle of nowhere. Have not paid much attention to my wiper spray, but it seems to work well.

I have never leased before, but this is the car that I wish I would have tried. The truth is that these cars are harder for them to sell then a standard gas powered car that everyone already understands. (I still love this car and plan to drive it for 7-10 years). Just think about all the questions that you have as the owner of the car vs some random Joe off the street that is uninformed. I am sure that the dealer/leasing company would LOVE for you to execute the buy on this contract, but is probably willing to negotiate again. Just look at the residual values of the Nissan Leaf, you can get a low mileage Leaf for about 11K... and they are everywhere. Pretty sure their leases were not written to account for that much depreciation. Given the amount of change that is going on in the market, I probably should have considered leasing... just don't really understand the concept too well. I also usually drive new cars much longer than a used car... just too much early depreciation for me to consider eating. This car's MSRP has already been adjusted down (twice really if you count the gas mileage rebate), I would be surprised if the estimate residual is equal to the buy out, but check that like lonzo71 suggests. That was the financial response, the emotional response is different. If you are comfortable with the car (you know its history) and you think its worth it...buy it! Most of the battery studies I have seen is that the batteries are aging better than expected. A caveat to that is warm climates might have a more adverse affect than thought -- but if your region is correct on your status that should not be a problem... I would also consider everything that Hybridbear shared above.

Drove to DC last week and was disappointed that even though I had 3 people in my (PHEV) car I could not enter anymore. This is because they pretty much turned the HOV lanes into pay lanes -- you need a hybrid EZ pass to use them. You need 3+ people plus the transmitter or pay to use the lanes an amount that moves based on how much traffic. I noticed this trend the last time I was out in LA on the way back to the airport. Not sure if they required the EZ Pass though if you had enough people in the car. If this trend continues, how many stickers issued may be a moot point.

Welcome Ryan! Poke around the forum to learn a lot about the car you just purchased, abuse that search feature. Of course if you have any questions you can not find then post them up!

My I is loose again, they are a pain to wash around anyway. Next time I wax they are going -- at least on the door.

How many times have you replaced that batteries in the fob? I replaced mine once, but every 4 months seems very excessive. (Honestly I am annoyed I had to replace mine inside of 5 years).

This car will do that to you! :2thumbs:

Can we please not make these posts personal? It is great to discuss the topic of the thread, but it serves no purpose attacking each other. Thank you.

Thanks BadRock... just looked at that tire and it will be a strong consideration when I start looking at tires. The small trade off in rolling resistance for better breaking and water handling would be well worth it.

Still on my original set of tires, will probably only look at what Michelin has in low energy at the time, but I had Pilot Sport A/S on my Acura TL... wonderful tire.

I have almost 27K on my tires. I have rotated them 2 times and while wearing still look pretty good.

Why would you want to trick the car into EV mode at 75mph? At that speed you are going to exhaust a significant portion of your EV range quite quickly. I tend to enter EV Later mode at speeds north of 55 and save it for secondary roads. If I have plenty of battery, then I will run EV Now to prevent the engine from turning on even on the highway, but tend to just keep up with traffic in the right lane... Don't like that engine coming on! My lifetime average is just getting back to 60 mpg as I take too many trips up and down 95 during the Fall. Love this car, the only time I put gas in it is when I do take a trip. Have not been to the gas station since February.

Android Auto https://www.yahoo.com/tech/android-auto-review-your-next-car-needs-this-a-120811691009.html

Another thing to consider when having the wire run is how pretty it needs to look. I was lucky and had the breaker box in my garage, but it is also a finished (dry wall) garage and the electrician asked if it would be ok to run conduit outside the drywall. I obliged as that was a lot less labor, and did the drywall work into the box myself where the conduit went into the wall under the box. The more amperage you request the more expensive the wire is going to be to run, so you will have to balance that as well. Nominal to the project, but still calculates into the final cost. I am pretty sure that the Tesla would charge with the 30A unit, just slower than it would with a 40A or 50A. You would need the adapter though. Of course if you had a Tesla and lived near a Supercharger then you would want to take advantage of that from time to time (free power) http://www.teslamotors.com/findus#/bounds/49.38,-66.94,25.82,-124.39?search=supercharger&name=us

Looks like you can get up to a $75 credit in Arizona on L2 Charger. Here is a site to look at benefits: http://www.pluginamerica.org/incentives As far as chargers go, I think you will get a different answer depending on who you ask. The Clipper Creeks are very popular and reasonably priced and I have not heard anything negative about them. I have a Bosch, I liked the unit and cord length for my garage (I think a BEV is in my future and wanted it to reach both sides. I also wanted a 30A even though my car can not use it now.) I had mine installed by a Bosch contractor because it gave me an extended warranty, also at the time I bought my car most people I asked about installing them were saying "you want to install a what?". I think they are much more common now and call around like you would any other electrical work. If you are comfortable opening an electrical box and installing a breaker, then I know many that have gone that route as well.

Ford Sync 3 is suppose to allow for WiFi update, according to the demo.

Murphy, was it you that did a mod to put a larger battery in the car? I looked for that recently, but that content has rolled off the board. I have not been left stranded, but every once in a while the car turns the radio off immediately to conserve power. Would you recommend an AGM battery for the replacement?

This was one of my most anticipated features when I got the car, this is also the feature I was most disappointed. I especially do not like this feature when I am driving down the interstate and passing a truck. It wants me to be in the center of the lane, and I want to give the truck room... so the car is fighting me. Most of the time it works fine, just was hoping for more. Now the ACC (adaptive cruise control), I think that I am spoiled for life. I will struggle to ever purchase a car that does not have that.

According to the demo on SYNC 3 Apple Car Play and Android Auto will be supported. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLJDJPkOY2w

I really thought we would start seeing phone nav on the main screen by now with Apple Car Play being announced a couple years back... but it has been slow to roll out. It is only a matter of time though.

I got that letter today as well, right into the recycle bin. Looks like its $135 on amazon http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Canada-Navigation-Explorer-Fm5t-19h449-aa/dp/B00V392V4A but it is going to have to drop down quite a bit more before I will consider. Probably wait until A7 comes out and buy someone's A6.