meyersnole

Here is the thread from the Tires and Wheels section that might help: http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/2049-temporary-donut-spare-tire-search/?p=13352

Do not have any ideas about the spare, but just out of curiosity what brand of tire did you have that had failures? And did you hit a curb or something at speed? I can not remember the last time I had an issue with tire defects -- it was the 90s or 80s I think. Maybe you got a bad batch of tires?

At 70 mph, you will burn through the battery rapidly. The specifics of how much energy is consumed are explained in the topic OBD II Data for ICE by larryh. Note that these figures are derived from running the motor though. He also mapped how much energy is consumed from the battery here: http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/1020-reported-trip-energy-used-vs-energy-required-to-recharge-car/?p=5711

Shaggy's point, is that if you wait until its time to sign and drive it may be too late. These deals have absolute dates on them. If it is on the paperwork you have, you should be okay, but if it is "yeah, its in there" you should ask for it to be listed on your contract of sale.

The hybrid credits have expired, but the ones for plug in hybrid are still available. https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/taxphevb.shtml

I just wish there was an easier way to tell the difference between regen braking friction. I can usually tell when I hit the friction, but then it is too late - messed up my brake score. Also good news about the shorter braking being more efficient, as when I try to take a longer approach at the light or sign I am often thwarted by a car or two diving in front of me.

There are many on here that have installed the clipper creek products with great success -- even outdoors. It seems to be a very good product (I personally also own the bosch, but I have never heard any complaints about the clipper creek).

He posted the pictures in another thread: http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/1715-18-niche-targa-m130/?p=11049

This is true, but I think it also came with a shorter cord and the cost was only about $100 more to step up to the 30A model.

Thanks Ashley! My dealer is working with me and has been nothing but helpful. It is a shame that the lettering comes off like it does (I was the third one there this month with the same issue). The part is already there and they are just waiting for me to come back by to put it on.

I had the right hand door and back lettering start to loosen. Mainly the I and F. This time around I am having it taken care of as a warranty issue, if it happens again I think I will remove them all. Looks to be a very poor design.

You might want to check out this topic... Available EV range...how high can it go? You can find lots of information in the Fuel Mileage section of this site. Welcome to the site!

I also have that Bosch and am very happy with it.

The warranty that comes with the car exceeds these plans @ 8 years and 100,000 miles for the battery and hybrid powertrain. The 100,000 miles is higher in California and some other states with better consumer laws. Here is the PDF for the PremiumCARE plan: http://www.floodfordesp.com/pdf/PremiumCARE_Ford_ESP.pdf

I am finally able to answer my own poll, thank you all for your help. I purchased the 7 year, 100,000 mile, $100 deductible from my dealership. I swung by to see them yesterday when I took my car in for oil change and tire rotation where the finance officer offered me the plan for $2500. I had forgotten what it was online, so I took the information and told them I would call. Initially when I called back and informed them of the $1215 quote online he said he was unable to match that... looked up the cost and then said yes. Was a little surprised how easy that was. Yeah for internet!

Knowing a little more about your route might help. Are there sections of your trip that are consistently congested, or where the speed limit is 50 or below? At 70+ mph you will burn through your battery rather rapidly. For my car the magic number seems to be 64 mph. I was driving the other day on the freeway and decided to go from EV later to EV Now with the cruise set to 65. The car put up a nice msg telling me no, for performance reasons it was going to continue to run the ICE. Knock the speed down 1 mph and it happily complied. I do not do much freeway driving, except on long trips, so my experience is limited here. I would think that if you are running in EV Auto above 65mph that it will primarily stay in hybrid mode, but I always like to actively manage it. In areas of congestion (45 or less) I would drop into EV now. I would also try and save some battery for the secondary roads where the speed limits are lower. It will probably take some experimentation to figure out how to manage your battery so that you have exhausted it by the time you get to work, but if you can find a way to use the battery where it is most efficient then it will pay off. Also, if you leave the house just 10 mins earlier you could slow down to 64 and really push your efficiency numbers higher. You might find these topics interesting: Anyone taken a long road trip yet? Real world mpg Ev miles

I have had the car through both seasons, and feel pretty comfortable saying that cold weather will have a larger impact than warm weather. larryh will probably be able to tell you how much... he has some excellent data on efficiency of the battery a different temperatures. Another reason that driving in the cold can be worse, you could have a case where the compressor is running (for defrost) and the the heater. Add in the dynamics that cold weather drops the efficiency of the battery and the range goes down quicker in the cold. I also agree, I have a larger tolerance for some cold (with the seat warmers of course) than I do for driving around in the heat. Rather burn some gas than show up somewhere sweating.

Can not say I disagree. Was very disappointed that this car did not have them and have looked at some after market, but nothing that I am willing to buy.

The Acura updates are $149, and the updates were near worthless. They would discount it to $99 when they were getting a little old. (They use to cost $199 discounted to $149). Now I have not bought them in a while, because I was very unhappy with the lack of updates (merchants that had been closed for a year or more still listed, roads that had been around for a couple years still not on the disc). If you go to the site you will see it for a limited time. They are just trying to get rid of the discs before they get their new stock. It does seem odd that the car manufactures have not changed their model, given that the smart phones have up to date maps and are eliminating the need for built in systems.

HA! Trade one set of issues for another. Instead of using power to keep occupants and battery warm, you now need to keep both from over heating. This car excels during the Spring and Fall during the temperate months... enjoy! Soon you will need to decide if how much sweat is worth a few more miles :whistling: At 100+ I would think that it would be necessary to run the AC to keep the batteries healthy. I will never know if the car will trigger it though, as I will be hitting the AC button well before it hits 90.

Curb weight can be found on your drivers door specs or you can find it on the web at a car site like here: 3,913 lbs. Russael already listed the battery at 7.6kwh.

If you use turbo tax it will ask for the weight and battery capacity. It will also calculate the refund at 4001 or 4002 (don't remember). Another example of how wonderful of a tax system we have in the US.

Mine was completely resolved by the dealer. But I had an early production run car that was missing a part. If you were built after 1/21/13 than my solution probably does not apply. You should contact your dealership though to get it documented and resolved.

I am pretty sure this is correct also.

I think I remember asking this question of is the car 'unscheduled - clean' (from this forum) and the dealer but I honestly do not remember the answer. I do remember that there were a lot of unique issues with the production of this car as it was brand new and they were having production issues. My car had an additional ~20 miles of testing done to insure it was put together correctly. But I knew it was not normal starting the process, the dealer did warn me and I had an overall good experience. But I jumped at the chance to end my wait for the car when they got in a model that was very similar to the one that I ordered. They even worked with me to ensure that my $750 coupon still worked on this deal.