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This would be epic! I will absolutely follow in your footsteps if you pull this off! 6x the electric range? Count me in! Heck maybe I'd just double or triple it to save money and weight/space and still be happy with that.

I didn't know there was space under the hood. I was working on a wooden roof rack myself, using a hacked IKEA PAX shelf.

Well, I'm baaa-aaak, And I have news to report. I've coasted in on e-fumes as I'm calling it now a good handfull of times. (and not made it without using gas a few times too. doh!) And at least 6 or so times I've paid special attention to the odometer when failing from EV mode to hybrid, and I've seen it tick down a mile in hybrid mode, withOUT the power flow app showing the ICE was used. Then I parked and shut off the car, and got put and plugged in. Then I waited at least 20 minutes and turned it back on. And the remain in miles indicator did NOT go back up. So I'm confirming the bug: The gas miles 'distance-to-empty' indicator decreases without using any gas. and is thus erroneous. If I did this a few hundred times I'd see it reading zero, but have a full tank! Specific observations from most recent occurrence: Gas DTE went from 268 to 267 on hybrid road without using gas engine and then i parked at 8:52, and plugged in EVSE. Waited until 9:15 before turning on to check. At 9:15, started car and had 267 gas miles and 4 electric. So, it did not reset, and the HVB received enough charge while off to go from hybrid to EV mode again. This is on a 2018 Fusion Energi Platinum

Where you gonna put it? roof rack? say goodbye to the whole trunk? I'd certainly read about it if you gave it a try. Lord knows I'm a whore for more range.

Both go times and remote start can be used to pre heat and cool the vehicle, right? I know that one of them is on demand and one of them is by a schedule but other than that, How do they differ? I would like to warm/cool my vehicle using wall power ONLY. I can't seem to get go times to work. Nothing happens in the car when the scheduled time does around

Both go times and remote start can be used to pre heat and cool the vehicle, right? How do they differ? I would like to warm my vehicle using wall power ONLY. I can't seem to get go times to work. Nothing happens in the car when the scheduled time does around

Our manual recommends the higher octane though, does it not? Here's a citation from the actual manual when I searched for octane: It does show a graphic of 87 octane also, saying a minimum of 87 is recommended. I'm not saying the manual is right. I'm interested in testing it. But the FTC probably knows nothing about the ford fusion atkinson and is making a general statement. Even their statement though, combined with the actual manual, does not indicate we shouldn't be using 91/prem in the 18 Fusion Energi at least. I don't know if other years used a different ICE maybe. And I might second guess myself anyway because the weather will be different when I test 91 on the same route. Perhaps to get the most pronounced difference if there is any I should look for 99 octane somewhere for the experiment.

You might want to tell Ford about that, because they wrote in the owner manual that it can take 87 to 91, and 91 is recommended because it will result in better mileage. What I want to find out is, is that mileage at 91 better enough to justify the higher price of fuel. Because otherwise I'm a cheapskate like most and would gladly buy the cheap gas forever. Not that I use much anyway but....

I want to conduct an experiment to quantify the affect of different octane levels of gas on my Fusion's gas mpg. I know it's safe to run the Energi in EV Now mode until the battery runs out and it will safely and automatically start up the gas engine when the electric goes empty. IS IT OKAY to have a full battery, drive in EV Later mode until I run completely out of gas, and let electric take over? (Assuming I know I will be within EV range of a gas station of course.) I was thinking this would be the most guaranteed way to know that the tank was as empty as possible before switching to the higher octane. I realise I could also let it get to the 0 mark and give it one gallon at a time for a few days as well but that would take much longer and I'd never know how thorough it was because of the reserve area in the tank.

I believe the most critical times that a Li-Ion battery are sensitive to temperature are during charging. Right? So how hot is too hot and how cold is too cold for the HVB in the Fusion Energi? I was measuring temps via OBD2 during charging today and it reached 95F while outdoors it was 75F. That doesn't sound too high, but I don't know that I really have the experience. I think I prefer to charge at 240v at home because it's more efficient. My PHEV charging circuit is electronically monitored and controlled (metered and switchable). I could program it to take a 30 minute break after each kwh dispensed perhaps if it would give the HVB time to cool down. Would that reduce "wear" on the battery? I remember reading on here before that there's a delay penalty if AC power is disconnected and then reconnected on the ford EVSE that comes with the car, but I have not experienced this. I've used it on an outlet of dubious quality on a semi regular basis (the kind where if you push on it the power goes out) and more than a few times it's started charging, cut out, and came back and charging started right up without delay according to mfm or obd2

I saw charge status :fault once when my car was in garage, charged to 100% and i unplugged the j plug and plugged it back in to show someone how it worked. The light ring flashed. But there was no other problem with it. no needint to disconnect 12v battery thank goodness.

The PID I'm watching is called 'Hybrid Battery Current' It goes negative to around -4.2 ish amps when charging. Unless I crank up the heat/ac. Then it increases towards 0, and eventually (in the case of heat much more easily) it goes positive even when connected to EVSE and the SOC starts decreasing. The same PID is visible when driving, and when the car is decelerating it goes negative, and accelerating it goes positive. So I'm pretty confident it's measuring amps at the battery pack, not at the EVSE outlet or rectifier pack. I normally drive in EV Now mode, to answer Murphy's question from earlier. I kinda wonder what the difference is between EV Now and Auto modes if Auto uses battery preferentially.

Interesting.... I'll try this out. Typically when I coast into the charger on e-fumes like this, I'm in the car, working for the next couple hours while it charges back up to full. Are these the steps I should try?: 1) park and shut off car 2) plug in charger 3) let it charge long enough to get out of hybrid range and into ev range. (Can't be more than what, 15 minutes on a level2 right?) 4) power on, gas range should be back to where it was before it kicked over from EV to hybrid mode Does that sound right? When I first got my Fusion I would have tried to charge with everything 'off' to charge faster. But now I have an obd2 adapter that shows me the ammount of current going into the HVB and it's about 4.3 amps going in wether the car is in accy or on mode. Even with AC on (at the lowest speed) its still 4.3. So it seems to me that the AC-to-DC converter, as limiting as it is, has extra capacity beyond what the batteries allow themselves to be charged at. Maybe there's a way to tell the battery controller it can charge faster? I know it charges at over 60 AMPS when I'm getting off the highway, so it doesn't seem like that big of an ask

Maybe hybrid-only, non-plug-in cars are required by regulation to report mileage on the window sticker as the total mileage whether or not ICE is running. And maybe the software that runs hybrid mode in the Energi was copy pasted from the Hybrid edition. The assumption you posit is of course true for a non-Energi fusion, so it might carry over if they reused code like that. I lean towards it's a bug, and that the gas mileage ticker should simply pause when the ICE is not running, wether it's because you're in EV mode or hybrid not using ICE. This might feel weird in hybrid mode since your range isn't moving at all even though the car is moving. Resulting in a "windows file-copy-progress-bar syndrome". (Jerky motion of an indicator that people expect to be smooth) As it is now, if I milk hybrid mode for an extra mile 200 more times it's going to tell me I have a mile of range left on my half tank of gas. It doesn't slowly evaporate and leave the tank does it? As long as gas and electric range are shown to the user independently (and I think that's worth doing), only one should be decrementing at a time, I guess, unless you had full blast heat cranked up or were driving so fast it needed both. OR (a solution I would like less, though shouldn't be materially worse) what about Hybrid mode does not begin until the battery is so low that the ICE must come on. The Batt percent would jump from 0% EV mode to like 15% hybrid mode. And then you could switch back to EV if you were in hybrid mode and went down hill long enough ti raise you above 15. (I'm baselessly assuming 15 is when ICE comes on in hybrid) Maybe the two modes should overlap a little instead of being discrete from one another. Or maybe the idea of modes itself was a bad idea

This post might be in the wrong section because it's more about the mileage DISPLAY than actual mileage. I've been driving basically entirely electric for weeks and I love it! One thing I have noticed though, if I am "running on fumes" (EV fumes) and my Energi kicks over from EV mode to hybrid mode, the gas range remaining counter starts to decrease. That sounds expected, but hear me out. I watch on the Power Flow app when this happens, and AT NO POINT does the ICE start. So what gives? How could my gas range be decreasing if I'm not using gas? Is this just a software bug? It must be right? If anyone knows of a gas pump liter counter "odometer" number I could look at to verify I'm not using gas, I'd be happy to check next time this happens, to rule out the 'Power Flow' app simply giving me false data. But I am pretty sure I can feel when the ICE is on too. For a while I had some socket wrenches in one of the door pockets, and they'd rattle when ICE kicked in, so I got to know the feel/sound of it.

In my city it's hard to find 220v. I've been using odb2 to monitor my charging and i have found "available battery charger input" to be listed via odb2 to be: 3.80kw when charging on a 240 V AC outlet. 3.35 at 208-209V AC 3.30 at 206-207V AC. 1.35kw at 115 v I even found one charger in town that odb reported 3.25 kw at 204v. So it looks to me like amperage is the limiting factor. Odb 2 usually reports a 13 amp AC input on 240 volt charging stations and a 15 amp AC input on 208 volt. On 120v with the charger that came with the car, 11A is that obd2 shows as the input current. So I'm guessing the charger first tries to auto detect which of the three common ranges of voltage its using and assigns a max amperage its willing to draw. Then it draws that amperage exactly, and any variation in voltage will thusly affect how many kilowatts it can used for charging and how fast that charging goes. The station I found that was 204 volts is a single station by itself far from the building that supplies it so I suspect it has some voltage drop.

I should update, I've been happily driving my Energi now for over a month and about half of the stations here are 208v, half 240v. The 240s are a little quicker, I think, but both work fine.

The charger in the Fusion is limited to 3.8kw. I've measured that it puts about 4 amps into the HVB when charging. Interestingly enough it's no faster if the car's in accessory or full on mode. Heat can sure hog power though! Has anyone had experience swapping the charger/rectifier module of their Fusion for another Ford model's charger thats rated for a higher wattage? I'd expect to need to upgrade the conductors between it and the HVB to handle the increased charge current, though maybe not. I saw amperages as high as 70 when driving! So maybe a charger two or three times as strong would still be well within the limits of the wiring. Has anyone done this before?

When charging, there's a fan that circulates air around the HV battery to cool it. I think this fan starts the moment charging starts. Could it be more efficient to suppress that fan until the batteries were up to their optimum temperature? Where does the waste heat go? I suspect through the trunk interior wall and out through a pair of vents low inside the rear bumper though I've yet to disassemble it. What are those vents called? Has anyone had good results redirecting that heat in the winter back into the interior of the car to keep it warmer for 'free'? Use the resistive coils less? I'd carefully take out one of the speakers back there maybe, and use its grille to pass the air through, or fold a seat down and use the passthrough. Though the speaker idea would probably defrost the rear windshield real well and loosen any ice/snow too! I don't know how much it dissipates, but I'd be surprised if it's too much heat for the interior. In summer time though it's another story, but I'd hope in summer time the fan reverses and brings in fresh air from outside tbh. Does it do that? (rather than trying to "cool" the HVB with thermonuclear solar oven heated air? In my part of the country, enough people die from exposure to such hot air that there was a big announcement last year of a new law protecting people who break windows of cars with dogs inside them on a hot day. I have to believe that the battery would refuse to charge or discharge if it was too hot, so that same protection would save me from overheating them if I recirculated it's waste heat into the cabin, right? With biggest risk being if I forgot to take it off in the summer I'd find myself with an inconveniently not charged and hot car. Which is not much worse than every other non EV car in the city in the summer.

That depends where it bites you, but I don't want to break things, especially if I'm what's getting broke! I have a pair of HV gloves that I'd probably use while initially disarming the pack, and bisect the cells into ~20v groups before testing them individually. They don't see much action, but I got them to do hot work on 277/480 and they're good for ten years, rated 22kv I think. It was in the kv range. I wasn't thinking about DC when I picked them out but I bet they'd do fine. I'm actually thinking of taking the online courses from Weber University's automotive dept. The professor is the WeberAuto youtube channel, which is an INCREDIBLE resource learning how PHVEs work, the Fusion Energi in particular! So I bet it would be money well spent. And the first class is on HVDC safety. All that said, as long as the warranty is good, I'm not going to waste my time fixing a covered part! That's Ford's responsibility!

I had a Toyota Prius for ELEVEN YEARS and not only did its HV battery never fail, it genuinely worked great in the last month before I sold it. (due to a snow-related crash) There's a failure rate for every part you can imagine. Even bolts fail some percent of the time. But I'm strongly wondering if it there's not also a lot of fear mongering BS from battery haters. Gas-powered vehicles are an enormous industry. In my city, their hatred of Tesla for instance is so pronounced that all the dealers threatened to leave the city's annual Auto Show if Tesla was allowed in to fairly compete. So I'm not sure, but I think it's possible that the HV batteries simply don't go bad on any reasonable time scale worth worrying about. A car you use every day on public streets will get destroyed on average what, every 20 years? 15 years? Or you'll want something new by then anyway... Maybe the old addage about worrying about how expensive it will be to replace the traction battery is nonsense. I sure hope so! And on the flipside, I've seen videos of HV battery repair. Not recommended by the manufacturers of course, and nothing to take on lightly... But in the times they do fail it'susually just one cell out of dozens. Replacing one cell can't be that expensive. 20-30 bucks in for the cell w/shipping and a few hours time.

I've had a few times recently where I was in the car while it was charging (Level 2), and the ICE came on. The climate control was on but it was set very low. Literally the lowest fan speed, 1. And I know both times, the SoC wsa increasing, meaning there's enough energy surplus to be charging the battery. I experimented around by increasing heating to the point that charge level started to go down and that usually does not start the ICE, I suppose if the battery is above some small threshold % then it prefers to deplete the battery over running ICE. So, I want to know, how can I debug, why the ICE came on? I've got the obdlink MX+ but I haven't seen anything int here that looks likely to explain it.

Dang! Which EVs do have a heat pump?

I have also witnessed the ICE start while plugged in. But I was very much present and messing with things at the time. I was outdoors. I had pressed the brake pedal and then igition switch to have as much utility of the car as possible. I was running my laptop off of the 12v outlet. Then I started the heat and heated seats and that's when it started. I've noticed the HVB actually decrease in charge percebt during this high combination of power draw. It'd be nice if the car had an option to reduce heating wattage or use pulse width modulation of the heater coil so that it could still charge somewhat while heating. I'd appreciate it while I'm inside the car, and I imagine others would appreciate it who want to pre-condition their car without causing ICE to run or lowering the battery from 100%.

That infernal double-honk every time I shut the door while the car is still on has driven me to reading about the little hidden settings that can be tweaked via FORScan. I found an epic master list put together by a fine gentleman, DanMc85 and I just have to share with yall here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/1/d/1yax6zfhZYj2joBczEeruqKh9X5Qhee3C0ngilqwTA7E/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true Wanna ditch the doublehonk, ditch the 30 minute idle limit, disable all automatic interior lights, he's got you covered. Enjoy! And if you want to give thanks to the guy for documenting all this: https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=893VKDJR3UH5A Also, to download all your manuals https://www.fordservicecontent.com/