theterminator93

It's great to see what other manufacturers have started doing more recently with EV technology becoming more refined and common. Hopefully this bodes well for features we get in future offerings from other manufacturers. ?

I'm paying about $30/mo in increased electrical utility charges. It's about 11 cents/kWh here. With a few tools you can accurately compute your price per full charge and if desired, EV mile. A Kill-a-Watt or similar helps give accurate measurements from the wall. Without such a device, you can estimate using ~1.3 - 1.4 kW/h of charge rate and the duration of your full charge in MFM. As the SoC approaches 100% power draw diminishes, however, so the final hour as a whole is probably closer to 1 kW (I have not measured, so YRMV). Just multiply the total kW/h used to charge the battery by your local utility rate and voila, you know how much it costs to fully charge the battery.

Are you asking if there are 220/240 level 2 chargers for the Energi? There are indeed. Assuming you have the correct level of electrical service available where you intend to charge, there are a number of ways to get level 2 charging for the car. You'll need a level 2 cable to match your local electrical code (hardwired where required, or plug-in style). From what I've seen the Energi may only draw 16A of level 2 current, so knowing that (and if you don't intend to get a BEV or newer PHEV that can take a greater current draw down the line) you can look into less expensive chargers that don't support a high charge current.

Li-ion cells, as a rule of thumb, degrade quickly when at high temperatures and SOC. They also die permanently if the cell voltage falls too low. With a Li-ion battery stored at 100% charge, high temperatures cause permanent degradation rather quickly - and dropping a full kWh over a year (or less) is definitely not a great way to inspire the buyer to purchase a generation of hybrid/electric vehicles. By purposely leaving the maximum charge permitted a few percent below the true full charge limit, the rate of degradation drops dramatically. Keeping the battery at hybrid-only levels nearly negates high-temperature permanent capacity loss that would happen most often in the summer which is why some people choose to do that. Like all batteries there's a specified rate of self discharge. If the battery was allowed to drain to a "true" 0% and then sat unused and uncharged for a long enough period, there is a risk of the main battery charge level dropping to dangerously low voltages which would then permanently "kill" cells within the battery pack.

What's the battery charge level, has it been fully charged from a wall outlet prior to driving? The HVB (high voltage battery) needs to be sufficiently charged for EV Now or EV Auto mode to be available. Without the car being plugged in to charge the vehicle will always stay in hybrid mode, where the various EV operation modes are disabled and only the last 20% or so of the battery's capacity gets used.

I was just thinking the same thing; public charging stations may be easily accessible depending on your location. Depending on what's available you can determine if level 1 and/or level 2 charging works which should confirm that the vehicle, battery, charging port etc. are in working order.

While looking for info on how the eCVT in these cars operates (beyond a generic overview), I found that there were some generic eCVT discussions but nobody had found videos specific to our cars. I was able to find a series of videos that do a great job of comprehensively explaining the transmission in this car (the HF35) along with the battery and associated electronics. Obviously the battery in our cars is much larger than the 1.4 kWh battery in the Hybrid, but it's still a great technical overview. I don't know if they've been listed here before, so I apologize if this is a repost. If not, here they are for anyone interested: There is also a nice video that outlines the differences in the varying generations of eCVT found in Ford's hybrids since 2005, including the HF35 found in our Energis.

Ahhh, those are great resources - I can imagine how in-depth it would be on a modern car like these (I'm used to my late-90s Thunderbird and Mark VIII's FSM and EVTMs). I'll plan to get a copy of each for the Energi as I'm sure they will be invaluable as I do my best to understand the platform better.

I was paying closer attention to the "Other" meter in the last few times I drove the car and it is indeed apparently all the way to the left with temps in the mid-low 30s. Despite that, I still have no problem getting 20-22 miles/charge without using the climate or heated seats. Tire pressure is good. All accessories are off. I was thinking it might include things like the temperature of the eCVT, since the cold weather observations thread made it pretty clear that cold, thick transmission fluid contributes considerably to the increased energy required to move the car in the cold. But that doesn't account for a full negative reading when temps are as mild as they would be in Texas. Murphy - if I may ask, where does your extensive knowledge of this platform stem from? Do you have a copy of the FSM and/or an Alldata subscription?

The charging circuitry has logic to ramp up the charge rate over a few moments after it detects is is connected to the car, and by extension one could assume it wouldn't be providing any power to those terminals unless it detects is is connected to the car. However, I wouldn't test that theory myself. I'm not sure why anybody would want/need to.

How are you getting the 5.2 kWh figure? Are you measuring wall draw with a Kill-A-Watt (or similar), adding up the kWh used on the cluster display or MFM for your trips, or are you looking at PIDs from the PCM with a scan tool? One thing to keep in mind when measuring the electrical energy going into the car from the wall is that the amount going into the battery will be about 30% less than what comes from the wall. This is mostly due to efficiency losses in the AC-DC conversion (charging from 120 will have a ~10% lower efficiency than charging from 240), but no battery pack is 100% efficient at charging/discharging either (that's where all that heat comes from). So if you are putting in 5.2 kWh as measured from your home's outlet, the battery is likely seeing about 3.6 kWh. With a "neutral" battery temperature in the 60-70 degree range, full capacity for EV now mode would have been 5.6 kWh, so if this is your scenario getting 15 miles out of a battery that holds ~65% what it did when new is not bad at all. Though that sets us up for a whole set of other questions on battery degradation! If 5.2 kWh is your battery capacity and not the wall draw, then yes - there's some room for improvement. What are your driving scores like, does the software think there's a lot of room for improvement based on driving style? I too am also curious to know what is included with the "other" metric. I can think of things like accessory draw (heated seats, radio, vehicle electronics etc.) and headlights but I thought those ran off the 12V battery (which recharges periodically when plugged in overnight) and not the HVB - meaning it shouldn't be factored into EV range metrics. Right now, here in the Cleveland suburbs of NE Ohio, the "other" bar on my trips is usually about 1/3-1/2 to the left of center. Temps right now are fluctuating from the 20s into the 30s and with no heater/defroster use the climate bar is a tad to the right even. It doesn't seem to move much, despite varied use of electronics in the car. This would seem to support the hypothesis that accessory/cabin use of electronics isn't a factor by running off the 12V battery.

Time for the newbie to resurrect an old thread... 2004 - Present - 1997 Thunderbird 2010 - 2017 - 2007 Mercury Milan (wife's) 2011 - 2014 - 1994 Mercury Cougar 2014 - 2018 - 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII 2017 - 2020 - 2007 Ford Fusion (wife's) 2018 - Present - 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC 2020 - Present - 2017 Ford Fusion Energi The Thunderbird is, as my wife proclaims proudly, "the other woman". As my first car it received a lot of aftermarket attention as I was coming of age. I've got an affinity for the old MN12/FN10 platform, as you can see I've owned 4 of them over the years. After having them for so long, I find maintenance to be "easy" and inexpensive.

Thanks for that bit of info, that helps. I will probably upsize then and go with an 8-3 cable for 40A, so I can use a 32A charging station down the road on future EVs that will happily take the additional current! Anything bigger than that and I don't think I'd be able to fish the cable through the basement and keep my head on straight...

Thank you. Hope to be able to contribute in some way as I learn more about the car. I absolutely agree to the advantages of EVs being more than simply a cost savings over traditional ICE transportation. It's a help to me though, being such a numbers driven guy (I work in IT, where "data driven decisions" is quite the catch-phrase), to see the tangible financial benefits in front of me. ? I'm already thinking down the line for the next [likely] EV purchase needing a 240V outlet. I finished my basement not long ago and have the ability to relatively easily run a new 10/3 (I assume a 240V EV charging station would best be 30A, not 20A?) from the load center... it's just finding the impetus to fish the cable through the ceiling.

I'm near Cleveland, OH - the electric rate is usually between 10 and 11 cents per KW/h - so about 3.5 cents per EV mile. I was doing some number crunching to find out where the cost per mile of driving the car like a hybrid, using gasoline, became cheaper than using EV operation based on the price of gas. Here is what I came up with (c/p from an earlier post of mine on a different automotive message board): I am using 17 miles per full EV charge of electric-only operation, which is 6 KWh of electricity based on my Kill-a-Watt's readings from last night's full charge. Electric rates for me are such that it's about 65 cents in electric to go those 17 miles. That shouldn't really change much, so 3.8 cents/mile is my "price to beat" for gasoline hybrid mode. For hybrid operation I'm seeing anywhere from 35-45 MPG on trips in town, so I'm using 40 MPG average at the moment. To achieve 3.8 cents/mile or less, that means the price of gasoline needs to be at most, $1.52/gal. The car is primarily my wife's for her commute and errands, for which she always stays in town. Her driving style is not as honed as my own to take full advantage of the technologies in the car, so her hybrid economy is probably going to be at most 35 MPG (short trips with cold starts). That means a price per gallon of $1.33 or less for hybrid mode to be as cheap (or cheaper) than EV only mode. To consider another facet, with her driving habits and a much shorter EV only range of, let's say 12 miles, that's 5.4 cents per mile in electricity. At 35 MPG hybrid, that converts to gas prices of $1.89 or less for hybrid mode to be cheaper than electric only mode. Given the current price of fuel, it's pretty much a wash as far as whether she uses EV or hybrid. However, given her relative lack of experience with hybrids/EVs, she needs to "practice" her driving style a bit to take advantage of what tools/technologies she has available. Not having the EV battery charged is detrimental to that cause, and it will be difficult for her to improve her EV only range that way. So I'll keep charging the car every night and keep tabs on her EV only range to come up with a better "cutoff point" for not charging the car if/when gas gets much cheaper. At the end of all that calculating though, what I can say is gas prices can only go so, and be so low for so long. We saw that with the first COVID lockdowns in March/April and into May; we saw gas as cheap as $0.99/gal briefly (which I can't remember seeing since probably the late 90s). Typically the lowest it will go is $1.5x-$1.7x at the end of the calendar year, then it inches up after January hits and peaks in the mid $2 range. Obviously the higher the price of gas, the more the cost advantage to EVs presents itself.

Good evening all, My wife and I picked up a used '17 FFE the weekend after Thanksgiving. We had been saving up to replace her 2007 Fusion for a little while, which we gifted to my parents after we took possession of the Energi. I hadn't intended to get an Energi, or even a hybrid at all while we were saving. I would periodically hop onto the web to take a look at what was available to ensure our savings goal was still realistic, and get a feel for the local market to determine what a "good deal" was as we got more serious/closer to the time to buy. Then I happened across the sale post for the 17 Energi and the prospects of the EV only operation for her commute (only 4 miles each way) to save on the fuel costs, as well as the improved economy/range over what we are used to getting piqued my interest. Plus, the price point was only a few grand higher than what a comparably equipped ICE Fusion would have cost. It just spoke to me, and the wife agreed. "My" cars consist of a 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC with the 4.6L 32v V8, and a 1997 Thunderbird with the 16v V8 (thought the Thunderbird is modified for "fun" use) - so I've been living with 23-26 MPG vehicles for quite a while up until now. The mother-in-law bought a 2010 (or 2011, I can't remember lol) Fusion Hybrid new, which I found fun to drive in a way different than my big V8s - trying to squeeze the best MPG out of the thing! I think my best trip was about 56 MPG, according to the trip computer. So the prospect of transitioning to the Energi was an easy step for me - given the "unique" feel of the CVT and regenerative braking these cars exhibit over a traditional ICE set of wheels. I'm managing driving scores in the high 90s and the wife is usually 90+ as well, which is encouraging. I've been doing my fair share of reading here to get to know the car better. A lot of the experiences and advice shared have proven invaluable so far in helping us get comfortable with our new-to-us car. The battery and car seem to be in like-new condition as far as I can tell, though I have yet to hook up my OBD-II scanner to read some of the battery specific PIDs. In-town EV only range with temperatures in the mid-30s with heat off seem to be about 20 miles, give or take. With the heat on, well, as has been said here many times, that drops to 10-14 miles. The car gets a spot in the attached garage overnight and I have it set to precondition the cabin for her prior to her departure, which has worked well despite only having 110V service for the convenience charger. She's been able to make the 4 mile commute to work on less than 1 KWh of energy - though the trip home is less forgiving due to the car soaking in the cold throughout the evening. I've had the chance to take the car on a pair of longer distance highway day-trips, and it seems to get about 35 MPG while using gasoline 100% at the high (75 MPH) freeway speeds in the more rural areas around here. I'm guessing that will edge up towards 40 as temperatures return to more comfortable levels in spring and summer. I'm also looking forward to seeing what the EV only range does then too. We're at just a bit over 43,000 miles. Looking forward to seeing the numbers we get from this thing as conditions change.