theterminator93

I actually haven't replaced it. My plan was to do so when I rotated the tires but before then my wife said the pump was working. I tested it and it was fine.

Not that I'm aware of - there might be a PID available in the OBD-II reader/app of your preference, but I haven't gone snooping.

Washer fluid pump on our '17 bit the dust sometime over the summer. Pull the washer stalk and the wipers start running (so the switch is good) but there's no sound from the pump. Yes, the reservoir is full. ? I've already ordered the $30 pump which I'm expecting to arrive in a few days. From a cursory examination it looks like it's accessed by removing the inner fender splash shield from the passenger wheel well. Anyone able to confirm or offer insights, if you've been in there before?

On the '17s and later, it's the button on the center console next to the EV mode switch - between the shift knob and arm rest, to the left of the cup holders.

What makes you think this site was ever run by Ford, or has (had) information suppressed? Ford used to have a service rep log in to help direct owners to the right place and occasionally escalate issues, but they haven't logged in for years. The site remains independently owned and operated. The FSM for this car is available digitally - a couple quick Google searches yield instant results. For example: https://www.factoryrepairmanuals.com/2018-ford-fusion-hybrid-and-energi-factory-service-manual-cd-original-shop-repair/

I am far from a subject matter expert. However, I do know the '13-'16s had the same basic powertrain. Starting with '17 the transaxle was given an update to include lighter/more efficient motors that provided about a 10% boost to EV range. I presume this same transaxle/engine combo remained through the discontinuation of the chassis in 2020; the '19 update was predominantly the larger HVB. All said, I'd venture to say you could probably swap in a '19 drivetrain. However with so many electronics in cars these days, if there are differences that would prevent the swap from working it will almost certainly be related to programming than physical fitment.

I'm not quite that conservative, though I'm not outright abusive either. ? Whenever the car is out of the garage we try to park it in shade, and use solar shades on the front and rear windshields at all times (unless it's cold out). My charging habits are using L1 charging only when it's over 70 degrees in the garage, and I have it on a thermostat to stop charging if the temperature exceeds 85. When it's cooler I'll use the L2 charger. Whenever I use EV mode it's in town - never on the highway. I abhor letting the engine run when the vehicle isn't moving, so I usually switch to EV later when I'm "guaranteed" to not have to stop before getting on the on ramp. Most often the ICE hasn't started for acceleration to speed - but the freeways here have a relatively low speed limit and I restrict acceleration to about the 2nd bar (of 5) on the meter. Not sure if the '15 is set up the same way as the '17. My acceleration and braking habits are such that the "driving coach" gives me 100% scores I know the battery has dead cells in it, so who knows - maybe the manufacturer of the mine had lower standards than the manufacturer of yours!

Pretty darn good! Our '17, when we got it with 44k 2 years ago, had already degraded down to 5 kWh. In the 2 years since then it seems to have degraded further to about 4.5, worth 23-24 miles in ideal conditions before it switches to hybrid mode and 26 before the ICE kicks on. How frequently do you use EV mode and charge the battery? Looking at our fuel/charge records over the last 18 months, we've put 202.56 gallons into the car and used 2382.2 kWh (per the trip odometer) to go 17,371.7 miles. Assuming an average of about 38 MPG from hybrid mode that means it's gone 10,000 EV miles in the last 18 months. Doing some more number crunching I see the average price per gallon paid in that time was $3.11/gal, or 12.22 cents per mile (at 38 MPG hybrid). Our electric rate is 10 cents/kWh - and 2382.2 kWh out of the battery is about 3100 kWh in (estimating efficiency since we recently got a L2 charger), or 3.1 cents per mile. That means we've saved $900 on gas in 18 months by using EV mode as much as we have.

The option to measure MPGe was removed for '17 and later Energis. There is no menu option to change fuel economy units between fuel only and fuel + electric usage (only distance/temperature/tire pressure adjustments are possible).

I've seen that kind of thing before when arcing occurs inside the outlet (usually because there's a poor connection between the outlet and the accessory plug). Certainly get the EVSE looked at (I'd also recommend replaced - chances are the plug was/is now damaged), but I'd suspect the outlet itself had a part to play in that as well - it possibly it had a poor connection internally. The car will only pull up to 12A from a 120V outlet - under no circumstances should a sustained 12A done that to a normal GFCI outlet.

It has been said here that 120V level 1 charging is 72% efficient and 240V level 2 charging is 82% efficient. You can do the math from there.

3.7-4.9 kWh is a pretty big variance from empty. I assume that is wall draw? Is that level 2 or level 1 charging (I assume level 2 - in which case that's between 3 and 4 kWh battery capacity)? If the battery only holds 3 kWh from empty (measured from the dash/trip computer) then it's pretty heavily degraded, only holding about half of what it should when new. 4 kWh is still degraded but is a little more acceptable given the age of the car. Our '17 with about 63K still holds about 4.4 kWh from empty - about 22 miles. I found these guys sell aftermarket Energi batteries and have a nationwide network of mechanics who should be able to install them. When the time comes, they're on my short list to call. https://www.besthybridbatteries.com/products/ford-fusion-energi-2013-2018-plugin-hybrid-battery

According to the manual - from the driver info (left) display on the dash, under Driver Assist settings.

If you will frequently drive <20 miles round trip, the Energi is a great option. For people who need to travel more than 10-15 miles one-way consistently, the benefits are much less pronounced. I haven't driven a '13-'20 Hybrid, but I can say I have no problem getting 45-46 MPG on the highway (65-70 MPH) in the summer, even in hilly terrain. I don't know what city MPG looks like in hybrid mode; I save the plug-in portion of the battery for those conditions and haven't even had an opportunity to measure it otherwise. A co-worker recently got a hybrid and has said he gets about 45 on the highway too, so it seems pretty comparable. My wife is the primary drive of our Energi. Her commute is 4 miles each way. For a while we didn't use any gas for nearly a month, except for an occasional trip to an ethnic grocery store about an hour away.

My '17 has EV+. Once it gets down to about 35% it's much more difficult to keep the ICE off; the power available meter on the dash gets pretty low! Fortunately our home is only a short coast from the entrance from our street; the lowest I recall getting the battery in hybrid mode is about 25%.

I can watch it fine in Firefox. Not having a frame of reference (I've never watched the ICE in mine as it's started) I can tell you there is a slight "thump" as it starts and stops. What you're showing looks like it's probably a little more than that but again, I have no common frame of reference. Has it always done this to your knowledge or has it started recently? Mileage?

While the car would still work as a regular hybrid with a severely deteriorated battery, It's probably detrimental to the wallet at that point since many states (e.g. here in OH) impose additional taxes on PHEVs/BEVs which makes it more expensive to own than a HEV. As long as the miles afforded by the added EV range of the PHEV save me enough on gas to recoup that added cost, it's worth keeping around. As far as battery replacement, I actually found these guys a week or so ago - under $4k. Hmm... https://www.besthybridbatteries.com/products/ford-fusion-energi-2013-2018-plugin-hybrid-battery

There are a handful of other instances of this happening on here, each caused by something slightly different. The first thing you will need to do is get any powertrain fault codes read for a diagnosis. It could be anything from a bad relay for powertrain control electronics (or damaged wiring), transmission faults, or something as benign as running out of gas. That's why you need to get codes read. You might be able to read certain codes with the procedure listed here.

The BECM doesn't monitor the charge level of the individual cells because they are connected in series, so there is no such PID.

With 6 years of HVB degradation as an early production 2017, ours only has ~4.5 kWh of usable EV range before it switches to hybrid mode. My wife is not as gentle on the car as I am but she still can get 20+ miles on a charge. If I'm careful I can get 24 miles (plus 2 more in hybrid mode) before the ICE kicks on. I think it's safe to say you'll be OK to get 12-16 miles. Getting that kind of range in winter may be a challenge though, depending on your climate. The best way to measure your HVB's capacity is to start with a full charge, reset the trip odometer, then do some in-town driving in EV Now mode (use the button on the center console) until the display says EV Now Not Available. At that point, look at the used kWh. Anything over 5 kWh means the battery is in very good shape, considering its age. 4-5 kWh would be typical wear IMHO. Anything much less than 4 indicates a battery that has not been well taken care of.

We got ours in late 2020, also used, with about 44,000 on it. It's just about to turn over 60,000. The only issue we've had (aside from a little bit of HVB degradation) was that the LED charge port ring died - though it wasn't working when we got it. It was an easy fix with a $100 part. There are a few folks here with cars over 100k who have said they've been reliable as well, though I can't quote one for you right now.

Sounds like the EVSE had issues (the charger is in the car, the EVSE just connects the car to utility power). 120V EVSEs can charge at a maximum of 12A, and this is what the factory convenience charger is rated at. At 240V the car can charge at up to 16A.

A PHEV is most advantageous with commutes 10 miles or so (ideally at low speed) each way, to avoid using any gas at all. A regular hybrid would make more sense for longer commutes. Some states also impose higher taxes or registration fees for hybrids and/or EVs to help them recoup some of the lost gas tax revenue, so consider that as a hidden cost as well. A 500 mile commute each week in an Energi, assuming 25 miles of EV range per day, would mean about 9 gallons of gas used per week. A regular hybrid would be closer to 12 - meaning an annual gas savings of about 150 gallons using the PHEV over the hybrid. Estimating the economy of your pickup, that's 23 gallons per week - so that's more than 2x the gas of the Energi and about 2x the gas of the hybrid. If your car payment is $100/mo more to get the Energi, gas prices need to stay above about $2.00/gal to make the Energi turn into a net savings over the truck. With a regular hybrid that would jump to about a minimum fuel price of $2.50/gal. Considering current fuel prices (let's assume $5/gal) that means you're saving $50-100/mo (even when factoring in electric costs and your higher payment) to ditch the pickup, just from using half (or less) the gas it does. You'll need to consider your electrical utility rate (it's 6-7 kWh to fill the battery on an '18, depending on L1 or L2 charging and degradation) against the price of gas to determine fuel savings.

Aside from trying a different EVSE, it's the only thing I can think of that an owner could try before having to spend money to get the BECM diagnosed.

Given the observations so far and what I've seen posted here in the past, it could be a symptom of a faulty BECM. It's the electronics/logic hardware that's responsible for the charging and discharging of the battery cells. When odd charging issues occur it seems like this is often the culprit. Does a master reset/disconnecting the 12v battery have any effect?