theterminator93

Yeah that's abnormal. Even if it was running at full speed it shouldn't make that bad bearing sound. I'd take it in to have it looked at if you can confirm warranty is good. There are two fans for the battery system - one for the BECM and one for the cells. Only the BECM fan runs while charging. The front cooling fan for the radiator isn't running too, is it? If "Go times" are set it will cool (or heat) the cabin when plugged in; if that's acting up it might turn on the A/C every time you plug in the car. Just something else to consider/look out for.

Try uploading the video to a hosting service (e.g. YouTube) and share the link here. The BECM fan will turn on while charging if its temperature exceeds a certain threshold. If the fan is damaged or malfunctioning it might make some odd noises. Aside from the noise is there any other symptom of malfunction? Does it charge/can you drive in EV mode?

I was shopping around to see what it might cost should we ever choose to go that route, and found those guys. They'll be the first outfit I check in with if we get to that point, but by the time that would end up being a need/serious desire, it will be a calculated decision on whether to invest in the car or replace it.

Greetings! To set a few (relatively minor) details straight, the charger is actually integrated in the car's battery pack controls - the BECM (battery energy control module). The plug that connects the car to the electric grid is called an EVSE (electric vehicle service equipment). A "level 1" EVSE is always 120 volts - they are usually 12 amps but as you found, there are 16 amp, 120 volt EVSEs. You need 20 amp breakers and 12 gauge circuit wiring to use those safely. They're only 33% faster than the factory 12A L1 EVSE, certainly not 3x faster. 🙂 The other type of EVSE that can be used with these cars is a level 2 EVSE, which is line service at 240 volts. The charger in the car will draw a maximum of 16A at 240V, which is about 3x faster than a 12A 120V EVSE. These often use a NEMA 6-20R outlet which can also safely be used with 12 gauge wiring, with a 20A DPST breaker. I got a L2 16A EVSE after converting a dedicated 20A outlet in my garage from 120V to 240V service. Something like this. In summary, unless you have 12 gauge wiring, you're best off sticking with a 12A L1 EVSE. PS - the car's charger is about 80% efficient at charging the battery with a L2 EVSE. With a L1 EVSE, it's only about 72% efficient. So you draw a little less electricity from the wall outlet to charge the car when using a L2 EVSE.

Temperature has a huge impact on the EV mode kWh test. I've been thinking of recording results at various temperatures to graph the effect of temperature on usable EV capacity but haven't taken the plunge. In the summer with our '17 approaching 80k, I still get close to 5 kWh and about 23 miles for the test. With the battery at 40F, I get about 4.1 kWh and 19 miles.

This site focuses on the 2013-2020 Energi PHEV, which shares the platform with the 2013-2020 hybrid and C-max, the Ford CD4. The 2010-2012 hybrids are the older CD3 platform. There may be someone here who can help, but you may be better off checking with a more focused support group. Maybe ask these guys: https://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=forums&id=57

When the headlights are left on auto, DRLs will be on but there is no icon on the dash. The only way to verify is to go out and look at the car or observe the reflection of them in the paint of a car in front of you when stopped in traffic. When the headlights are on, then the green icon will illuminate on the dash. The auto setting is one click to right of on. One click to the right of off is parking lamps, and two clicks right is headlights on. On some cars having the wipers on turns on the headlights, but I can't recall if these have that function/feature. My old Mark VIII does that. Last time I looked it up, DRL is not required in the US but it is in Canada. All the same, many auto manufacturers are including some flavor of "accent trim" around their headlights for styling purposes but that also meet the regulatory requirements of nations that require DRL. By doing this, they reduce manufacturing costs slightly and that seems to be the name of the game these days.

Nothing on our 2017. Just a pair of cooling fans which draw air in from the trunk and exhaust it out underneath - one for the BECM and one for the battery pack.

2019-2020 Model Year Ford Fusion® Energi sedans with 30Ah plug-in hybrid electric vehicle cell batteries built between December 6, 2017, and July 27, 2020. Ref: https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/recall/recalls-and-faqs/23s33-fusion-2019-2020-battery-and-power-loss-recall/

There was a voluntary recalled for select vehicles about 2 years ago. Some owners have documented how it is possible to do the upgrade yourself with a compatible modem. See this thread for details:

Degrading the community is a great way to solicit advice. Retrofit the factory LED housings into your FFE. It was an option. Putting LED bulbs into halogen housings is never a great idea as they have different beam (diffraction) patterns.

Watching Ford abandon customers like this (combined with their exit of the car market to focus on more profitable trucks and SUV/CUVs only) has convinced me and my wife to avoid Ford in the future when it comes time for us to get a new vehicle. We will most likely get a BEV from a Japanese or European manufacturer as we also have no love of Tesla or Elon Musk. Aside from the fact that Ford has no attractive BEVs on the market (we dislike trucks, SUVs/CUVs and those subcompact "death traps"), it's clear that they take your money and run - no long term support at all. Actions speak louder than words.

I would have the dealership do the diagnostics. If they determine the HVB or BECM are at fault, the diagnostic fee should be returned to you and the cost of parts and labor to repair will be covered under the "unique hybrid powertrain components" warranty.

Haven't seen that personally. In fact I used the app to flip off departure times this morning as we're preparing for some time away from home soon.

Yikes, I think that's the first time I've ever seen them replace the HVB under warranty. I imagine you got a refurb'd unit, what's the part number they installed on the paperwork?

It's also possible the P.O. used level 2 charging. I wouldn't worry too much about charging it up. It will probably take 6 hours or so to fully charge, but I would check it periodically during that time to ensure it charges fully. If there are any problems, the car will stop charging.

I wonder how far out the service will run. Our 17 was sold to the first owner in March of 2018, and the 5-year "trial" of MFM/FordPass would have expired over a month ago. It still works. Maybe it will continue to work indefinitely since the modem was upgraded? ?

I've observed that I can usually get ~2 miles from 100% hybrid mode before it depletes to ~25-30% and the ICE turns on. I am usually able to get about 4.5-5 miles on 1 kWh, so it would seem that only .5 kWh is "available" for hybrid mode... at least in my case.

You can see HVB SoC in the "Charge Settings" section of the vehicle settings tab on the touchscreen.

Yeah, that's what I've noticed. IMHO it would be prudent for there to be more than one active moderator. Life can change on very short notice, and if we're out of mods this place could get messy and unusable. I just reported a spam post, we'll see what happens.

It seems like recently there has been a bit of an uptick of spammers signing up and posting "junk" - not blatantly spam (as in pointing to other websites), but more like... nuisance posts. Short replies with no value, coming from brand new accounts with no other posts or history. I know murphy was our longtime resident moderator who (I presume) kept things under control. Who's our current team that we should be reporting suspicious posts to, to keep the site clean?

9 kWh is the capacity of all the cells, not the usable charge. There is capacity reserved at both ends of the charge spectrum to prevent both over- and under-voltage conditions. The car had approximately 7 kWh of usable EV charge when new. This is measured at about 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Hard acceleration wastes more heat than light acceleration, and even 100% regenerative braking is not perfectly efficient. The best way to measure your battery's capacity is to do your best to maintain a steady 35-40 MPH with minimal slowdowns/starts in 70 degree weather. When the temperature drops down into the 30s, for example, your usable capacity will drop 20-30%. If you are using the heater, it plummets even more.

Fuelly doesn't have a way to record MPGe (which factors in the electricity used as an equivalent amount of gasoline) but I do record the kWh between fillups. If I go back and do the math to factor that in, the actual average MPGe of the car since we've had it is about 66.2. The last time I topped off the tank at a gas station was 2 months ago. MPG on the long highway trips in HEV mode tends to average 40-45 MPG, depending on the temperature/wind. When we're in EV mode in town, I've measured the efficiency at about 170 MPGe.

On our '17 there are plastic fairings on the undercarriage designed to smooth out the flow of air under the car and reduce drag at highway speeds. I don't know if there's sound matting underneath of them, though.

The Fusion EVSE draws up to 12 amps at 120V. This is to adhere to the 80% rule for continuous current draw on a common residential 15A circuit (80% of 15A is 12A). If other things are on the circuit that kick on briefly, it won't do harm - especially if your circuit is wired for 20A service. In my case the garage is one complete circuit, but it's also wired for 20A with 12 AWG conductors. The garage door opener is on that circuit as are the lights. I also have a small 1/3 HP air compressor. When the air compressor kicks on it's noticeably weaker than if the car isn't charging, but otherwise I haven't noticed any ill effects. As to whether you can use 240V to charge the car, as others have said, absolutely! I took the plunge and bought a level 2 EVSE last winter and love it. I only use it when it's relatively cool outside though; the faster charging is more efficient but the efficiency gain does not offset the reduced charging time. In other words, the battery will get hotter when charging L2 than with L1. Check your 240V circuit for its ampacity (probably 30 amps). This will allow you to use up to a 24 amp EVSE. Match the receptacle type with the plug on the EVSE. Be aware that the Energi charger maxes out at 16 Amps when charging with a L2 240V EVSE, so if you get a higher-current capable EVSE the car will only pull 16 Amps. I got mine from Lectron. Even if you don't buy from them they have a decent website to help you at least see what kind of combos are out there.